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funkyjunky

www.lamart.ch
Manufacturer
thanks guys for having my back. it has been a very demanding january for me with nontubo related stuff, i hope things settle a bit soon.
@jardri is right tho, i did not send out his order for some time. its not stated on the website i took time off and the building time does not apply to accessories orders. when you asked again to ship that day or refund you i did what was possible for me and did refund. i am of course happy to take your order again.


as for you @Mixio... the last email i got from you was on 25.02.18
if you dare, feel free to send your warranty request again... ;)

there are still some unanswered messages on different platforms but i thought i am up to date on emails.
 

Mixio

TheVaporOne
thanks guys for having my back. it has been a very demanding january for me with nontubo related stuff, i hope things settle a bit soon.
@jardri is right tho, i did not send out his order for some time. its not stated on the website i took time off and the building time does not apply to accessories orders. when you asked again to ship that day or refund you i did what was possible for me and did refund. i am of course happy to take your order again.


as for you @Mixio... the last email i got from you was on 25.02.18
if you dare, feel free to send your warranty request again... ;)

there are still some unanswered messages on different platforms but i thought i am up to date on emails.

Request made on your site ...it's almost strange you did not received. .:wave:
 
Mixio,

Monkeyhouse

Accessory Maker
https://vgoodiez.com/collections/accessories/products/xl8r-nav-standard-by-rastabuddahtao-rbt

Has anyone tried this stem? I thought the xl8r was like $50? Will it work for tubo

The US (custom) version is $50 while the Chinese version is only 25. They both work great in the tubo, add lots of cooling without restricting airflow at all. The only real difference between the two is the thickness of the glass (the us version is a hair thicker) and the joint on the Chinese version is ground.
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
My renewed Tubo is still working great, it was one of the originals thats always been an amazing product while @funkyjunky has given me above and beyond customer service personally. Welcome back!

Depending on how close it is, there are work arounds like teflon tape.

This means it's probably not the correct size joint, maybe it's a 19/22 ?

A few twists around your stem with some Teflon tape can make the stem tighter and adjust the depth your stem is away from the heater.

The tape is OUTSIDE the air path.

Yeah mine don't fit either, and I was going to try Teflon tape, but when I went just now to look on Amazon I see a prop 65 warning for California about cancer? Is it truly safe and the best option? Feel like some sort of cotton fabric tape may be better but I don't know if it would be thin enough... Hmmm I've been using masking tape as a temporary solution, but time to find a new one.

Also just as a PSA, all RBT stems will fit in the tubo! It is the other way around that is not necessarily true :tup:
 

Monkeyhouse

Accessory Maker
Yeah mine don't fit either, and I was going to try Teflon tape, but when I went just now to look on Amazon I see a prop 65 warning for California about cancer? Is it truly safe and the best option? Feel like some sort of cotton fabric tape may be better but I don't know if it would be thin enough... Hmmm I've been using masking tape as a temporary solution, but time to find a new one.

Also just as a PSA, all RBT stems will fit in the tubo! It is the other way around that is not necessarily true :tup:

I mentioned earlier in this thread that rolling papers work great for getting loose joints to fit tight, and the adhesive on them is meant to be inhaled so no health concerns there.
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
I mentioned earlier in this thread that rolling papers work great for getting loose joints to fit tight, and the adhesive on them is meant to be inhaled so no health concerns there.

Yeah I saw that, but meant to be inhaled and smoked, so do I trust their health standard? lol I also don't have rolling papers anymore either, but it just doesn't seem as nice... Do you need the extra large kind to make it around the joint?
 
Shit Snacks,

Monkeyhouse

Accessory Maker
@Shit Snacks The adhesive used on rolling papers is gum arabic (aka sugar gum) and is completely nontoxic. I don't think you will need xl papers as the ones I use are more than long enough, although they are xl papers. I've tried putting the adhesive at the top and bottom of the joint and have found that putting it at the bottom let's you keep more of the paper on the joint while putting at the top usually causes the paper to bunch up after a few uses and I just ended up tearing off all the excess paper and just leaving the adhesive strip at the top. The joint still sits securely and doesn't wobble despite the reduced area of contact. I also use unbleached hemp papers as I don't want any possible trace of a bleaching agent going into my lungs. As for alternatives I've tried using the ceramic paper I use to secure glass joints while glass blowing but found it to be too thick and the lack of adhesive is was rather inconvenient as I had to rewrap the joint every time I took it out to stir or reload.
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
@Shit Snacks The adhesive used on rolling papers is gum arabic (aka sugar gum) and is completely nontoxic. I don't think you will need xl papers as the ones I use are more than long enough, although they are xl papers. I've tried putting the adhesive at the top and bottom of the joint and have found that putting it at the bottom let's you keep more of the paper on the joint while putting at the top usually causes the paper to bunch up after a few uses and I just ended up tearing off all the excess paper and just leaving the adhesive strip at the top. The joint still sits securely and doesn't wobble despite the reduced area of contact. I also use unbleached hemp papers as I don't want any possible trace of a bleaching agent going into my lungs. As for alternatives I've tried using the ceramic paper I use to secure glass joints while glass blowing but found it to be too thick and the lack of adhesive is was rather inconvenient as I had to rewrap the joint every time I took it out to stir or reload.

Are you able to post a picture actually? That does sound pretty good... Not sure I want to buy a whole pack though. Thanks!
 

Monkeyhouse

Accessory Maker
IMG_20190204_002206.jpg

There you are, not sure if you can tell from the photo but I wrapped the adhesive side flush with the end other the joint once and them spiraled the paper up the joint to hold the paper in place better.

Sorry of the image is too big this is my first time posting an image here and I'm not very familiar with the formatting.
 

QTdrone

Member
@2hrs I ordered the piece you recommended. Won't be able to try it out for a few weeks however, because I'm on a t-break and it has a crack down the middle so I've sent for a replacement :cry:. Regardless, this piece's "bulb" is pretty fat and is just a hair from making contact with the evic side of the tubo. Nice fit! Cannot wait to try this one in action. What screen do you use w/ this piece?
 

2hrs

Well-Known Member
@2hrs I ordered the piece you recommended. Won't be able to try it out for a few weeks however, because I'm on a t-break and it has a crack down the middle so I've sent for a replacement :cry:. Regardless, this piece's "bulb" is pretty fat and is just a hair from making contact with the evic side of the tubo. Nice fit! Cannot wait to try this one in action. What screen do you use w/ this piece?

sorry you got a cracked one, but yeah i love it. I'm on a break too. I just put a rimmed basked screen in there that I had from my ddave kit from my EQ i got rid of. so I just use it microdose style with that. I have some rimless basket screens that came with that kit, but haven't tried that yet but I'd imagine those are cool too

I also pulled the screen out of the tubo (non spiky) bent stem I origially got with the tubo and have it in this 'spoon' piece, just like it comes in the included MP. I filled the whole joint and capped it with the basket screen one time just to try it, it worked ok, but was just big for my style.

if there were spikey's available when I ordered the tubo I would have got one. I was actually kinda surprised at how hot the regular bent stem gets. it's ok, but it could get my lips and throat toasty kinda quick. I ordered this 'spoon' and a bunch of other random DHgate glass at the same time as the tubo, really got this just like 'meh, why not' when i ordered. when it finally came, I threw it on the tubo, it was like infinitely cooler and I loved the form factor so much. I really wasn't expecting to even care about this piece but its badass and was the top pickup from all of the other glass I got (well, I got an FC-mod too and it's pretty dope, but I'm a simple, no water kinda guy I think i'm learning, and this piece was MVP).

it is pretty thick, and the surface area of bulbs i think really help cool, and it also has the really thick "pinch point before the bulb of the mouthpiece that I think really helps also. lol, as you can tell i've spent a lot of time after a drag, staring at it in wonder quietly nodding my head:lol:
 

QTdrone

Member
Well the good thing is it is still functional ( I believe, haven't tested it yet to see if it'll leak water or air.) So if it's as good as you say I'll have two. How large are the basket screens? About .5 inches across?
 
QTdrone,
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Reactions: 2hrs

2hrs

Well-Known Member

horst

horsed
Anyone got a hint on how to remove a gunked up glas insert from a wooden capsule stem?
I already tried setting the temp very high and blow from the tubo bottom with the stem attached but I'm afraid to go higher then 260°C to prevent damaging the device.
Also tried using a hairdryer to warm up the stem and placing on a heater for a long period but it doesn't move a bit and I don't want to use too much force.
 

Azn2101

Well-Known Member
I put mine on cruise at 175c and inhale gently until I feel the heat creeping up about half way on the Med. Stem and then remove and twist.
 
Azn2101,

almost there

Well-Known Member
Anyone got a hint on how to remove a gunked up glas insert from a wooden capsule stem?
I already tried setting the temp very high and blow from the tubo bottom with the stem attached but I'm afraid to go higher then 260°C to prevent damaging the device.
Also tried using a hairdryer to warm up the stem and placing on a heater for a long period but it doesn't move a bit and I don't want to use too much force.
FJ recommends you push the glass out using a pencil with the sharpened end from the capsule side. I usually follow this method with success but the one time I decided to use the eraser end I broke the insert:lol:. Doing it after a session may help once it's warmed up.
 
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Monkeyhouse

Accessory Maker
Anyone got a hint on how to remove a gunked up glas insert from a wooden capsule stem?
I already tried setting the temp very high and blow from the tubo bottom with the stem attached but I'm afraid to go higher then 260°C to prevent damaging the device.
Also tried using a hairdryer to warm up the stem and placing on a heater for a long period but it doesn't move a bit and I don't want to use too much force.

Boil some water in a kettle and hold the stem above the steam with some tongs. The heat/moisture will expand the wood and should let the glass slide right out. Make sure to dry the wood completely afterwards and wax it to add moisture back.
 

caliganja420

Well-Known Member
Boil some water in a kettle and hold the stem above the steam with some tongs. The heat/moisture will expand the wood and should let the glass slide right out. Make sure to dry the wood completely afterwards and wax it to add moisture back.

What kind of wax can i use on my tubo to keep the wood from drying out? All i was able to find was Eds tnt butter
 
caliganja420,

Monkeyhouse

Accessory Maker
What kind of wax can i use on my tubo to keep the wood from drying out? All i was able to find was Eds tnt butter

I use underbutter and dynawax to wax my wood vapes, but that's just because I have those, I'm sure that Edd's tnt butter will work no problem. I've also found that my tubo's don't need to be waxed as often as my solid wood units and I've never waxed my painted tubo as I don't think it would really do anything. I'm honestly not even sure if the plywood used on tubo's needs to be waxed, maybe @funkyjunky or someone else could give a more definitive answer as to wether they need to be waxed or not.
 

Azn2101

Well-Known Member
I use underbutter and dynawax to wax my wood vapes, but that's just because I have those, I'm sure that Edd's tnt butter will work no problem. I've also found that my tubo's don't need to be waxed as often as my solid wood units and I've never waxed my painted tubo as I don't think it would really do anything. I'm honestly not even sure if the plywood used on tubo's needs to be waxed, maybe @funkyjunky or someone else could give a more definitive answer as to wether they need to be waxed or not.

When I pointed out that I had used Sticky Brick Butter on my Solid Pine Unit he pointed out that he puts a fresh coat of (What I'm assuming is all natural, White beeswax) type of Beeswax before finishing a Unit and that the extra coat was really not needed.

I've found minute differences in some vapes waxes. Like SB Butter was much thinner and felt like it was able to absorb or take in more of the wax but also gave it like a matte look & seemed to be able to blow off those microscopic black pieces of dust from ABV as opposed to the Dynavap Wax that made it shine like it was straight sprayed with Teflon and had a better feel but required a lot more wax to completely coat it, that's with doing one panel at a time to remove the excess wax to the next panel. I also felt like it was harder to get the same microscopic ABV out. I was donated like the corners of an Ed's B.A.B. container but it came a few days after waxing it. I did use it on another vape (Log style) and it felt great but for whatever reason, and this could be in my head, but I felt like the SB Butter kept it the most resilient against debris getting into the wood but doesn't give it that extra protection against nails and itty bitty scratches that Ed's & Dynawax does.

Back to to the point. I think most waxes for other Vaporizers, as long as it's not SUPER watery is good but I would stick to stuff labeled for Food Grade White Beeswax if you want to buy from a 3rd party like Amazon or somewhere like that.
 
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horst

horsed
FJ recommends you push the glass out using a pencil with the sharpened end from the capsule side. I usually follow this method with success but the one time I decided to use the eraser end I broke the insert:lol:. Doing it after a session may help once it's warmed up.

Boil some water in a kettle and hold the stem above the steam with some tongs. The heat/moisture will expand the wood and should let the glass slide right out. Make sure to dry the wood completely afterwards and wax it to add moisture back.

The combination of both suggestions did the trick, thank you guys. :)
 
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