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DIH-005: The "Russian Doll" DIY Dynavap Induction Heater

kent1146

Member
20181012-232446.jpg




I normally frequent /r/vaporents and /r/dynavap. But I felt the need to share this with my fellow stoner-engineers that lurk on FC.

Model DIH-005. The "Russian doll" Portable Dynavap Induction Heater.

Images and design notes: Imgur album

Purpose
: The purpose of this project is to create a design for a Dynavap Induction Heater that fit inside of a plastic 16oz coffee cup. Additionally, this design allows this Dynavap Induction Heater to be replicated using off-the-shelf parts and commonly available tools.

Design: The design was intended to improve upon DIH-004 (link), which required the use of a custom chassis to align the internal parts correctly. DIH-005 incorporates a "sleeve" design (like a Russian doll) to align internal parts and provide a mounting platform for the induction heater power supply unit.
Features:
  • Can be built using off-the-shelf parts and commonly available tools.
  • Portable (battery operated)
  • Stealthy (plastic 16oz coffee cup)
  • Can be used one-handed
  • 3-way toggle switch to run via internal rechargeable batteries; via 12V DC input; or off.
  • 11.1v internal rechargeable battery, constructed from standard 3.7v 18650 lithium cells. Integrated battery management system (BMS) with balanced charging
  • Blue status LED to indicate when running on battery power; green LED on lid lights up when induction heater is active.
  • Sweet-looking momentary push button on cap.
  • (optional) Additional Arduino momentary push button on cap (index finger operation)
  • Move DC 12V input jack and main power switch to cap. Easier build process, easier dis/re-assembly of unit)
  • A little bit of glass tube to pop out on the top, just because I think it looks cool.
Parts:
Parts List
Miscellaneous parts:
  • Electrical wire
  • Electrical tape
  • 2-pin and 4-pin electrical connector plugs
  • Heat shrink tube
  • Hot glue
  • Sandpaper
  • Tools used: Screwdriver | wire stripper | needle-nose pliers | jigsaw (hacksaw if you don't have one) | dremel/rotary tool | soldering iron | drill | drill bits and spade bits

20181012-232502.jpg

20181012-231923.jpg



20181012-233716.jpg


Notes-Circuit-Diagram.jpg


Notes-Lower-Battery.jpg


Notes-Mid-Body.jpg


Notes-Top-Cap.jpg
 
Last edited:

blokenoname

DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Try another image hoster, please. Otherwise no one sees your pics. Tinypic works.
 
blokenoname,

polykoma

Active Member
Hi my friend!
Great tutorial!

Can you please make close up photos of all the wiring parts?
Thank you so much !
 
polykoma,

Backsage

Member
Do you have a diagram of the wires from the DC power jack or do you know which wires from the DC power jack are supposed to go to which pins on the 3 pin slide switch?
 
Backsage,

badbee

Well-Known Member
Typically with barrel jacks the center pin is positive and the sleeve negative (they do it differently for audio equipment). Wtih three pin switches you generally only use two of the connections. One will be marked NO (normally open) and the other NC (normally closed). If it isn't marked test it with a meter, always check everything with your meter. You want NO (unconnected when switch is not "switched"), these simple switches won't have a polarity, it doesn't matter where you put the positive and negative.

Edit: Note I haven't built from this specific plan, but have built several IHs and mess around with electronics for fun.
 

Backsage

Member
i.imgur.com/evbI9pQ.jpg
Ok, so this is how I have my momentary push button switches and green LED wired up. I have it wired up this way because I want the green LED to only be lit up when the buttons are pushed. I don't want the green LED to be lit up for the entire time the IH is turned on. So I'm assuming the black wire goes to TRIG/PWM and the red wire goes to VIN+ on the MOSFET module?

i.imgur.com/OmMAPbL.jpg
i.imgur.com/Aju4RoT.jpeg
This is how I have the blue LED wired up. Now this portion is coming from the battery pack itself. But I got those two wires coming from the 12v DC input jack. I am assuming I can put either wire on either pin 1 and 2 of the slide switch, and from there those wires go to the MOSFET module. Or will that cause an issue for pin 3 (it'll prevent the IH from being used on battery power and blue LED won't turn on)? Or maybe I should only connect the red wire to pin 1 and from there the red and black wires go to VIN+ and VIN- on the MOSFET module?

This is the way I interpreted it:
i.imgur.com/COW2xbz.jpg
Correct me if I'm wrong. Just based on seeing the diagram from VapOven, this is how I interpreted where all the connections should go.
 
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Backsage,

Backsage

Member
Sorry for double post since I can't edit my last post. This is a diagram that I made. It also includes the momentary push buttons and the green LED.
i.imgur.com/s2stLBx.jpg
I'm not sure if I wired it correctly to the MOSFET board.

Also in these diagrams I wired the push button switches in a parallel circuit:
1) i.imgur.com/IdxsPdM.jpg
2) i.imgur.com/ZcHczoq.jpg
Not sure which one is more correct.
 
Last edited:
Backsage,

Hookahhead_MD

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Just found this place through /r/Dynavap and /r/vaporents. Thanks for sharing all the info!
 
Hookahhead_MD,
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