Discontinued Splinter Z by RBT

@KeroZen interesting... when I fire mine up with myevic installed it SHOWS different resistances as you describe on the 'real world read out' but, it stays locked with a figure in performance.

I also made the myevic firmware mimic the tubo firmware on every value shown online (check OFF was important for keeping charing down as well as spontaneous combustion)

As I understand it...though that may not be saying much with my settings skillset...is that the M value governs the intensity of the temp at a set level and the coils resistance governs the water-hose flow of electricity to the coil?

Neither can be too low or proper current/heat won't reach the material.

When I was discussing settings for the tubox with FJ a while ago, he was telling me that combustion should occur at 465°F using that as a reference point, I use the resistance value get to that point. (But SHOULD it be material?)

ALL tubo's, regardless of coil resistance uses the 185 Material value and you adjust the coils resistance to match heat expectations

Wattage is used as the intensity of the punch to reach the set point...but if the set point is too low, even with high wattage, you'll get little to nothing...likewise... if you have an appropriate temp set point, wattage that is too high will cause the load to reach the end set point abruptly and lead to too much hot air?

I'm just trying to get a grasp...lol.

sickmanfraud said:

I believe that adjusting the resistance/Tubo setting is the recommended way to adjust the vape/mod.

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So you keep your material value at 185 too?

Slow heat up happens with my Splinter Z, as does the Tubo Evic. But once heated, and the train is rolling, it's all good. It is important to get the temps feeling right, 360-370 start producing vape, and the char happening on the 430ish zone. Then, the important thing is the mod maintaining that temp whilst you draw. Wrong M settings will have your temp reading plummet when you draw, and then the mod feeds your max watts to build back up to set temps, instead of low watts to maintain set temp when your temp only drops 10°-15° when you draw. If that makes sense.
The resistance will change in real time as your using it @WakeAndVape but the mod still is functioning off of your locked in ohms. Your locked ohms won't change, or ask you over and over if this a different atty like this dna75c unit is doing with my I heat.

Hmmmm now I have tried starting at 350 and 340 which felt a little too warm no I wasn't getting a hotspot but it did heat up right away. Went down to 330 and then 315 and that was where I think I was seeing what should be 340F probably?

If only I knew what to do now about that lol and yeah I can't see the screen so no idea if it's keeping up with my drawers but it must be. I have to say the airflow on my two hole see is actually perfect for regulating your draw, great to share.

@SloJimFizz thanks to you and @KeroZen this is starting to shape up better in my mind...so if my temp reading if set at say...420 and using AF/cruise and the temp readings are shooting upwards of 600 when not drawing using lower wattage than selected, does this mean the material value is set too high, or not high enough?

And when would you personally change the resistance?

Do you also think that the 185 material setting(used by tubo) would be an appropriate material setting for the splinter/Z?

and since the splinter and Z are both made from the same material, I'm assuming they would share the same material setting?

I really need to explore the lower temp world...I have never used anything under 410 to my satisfaction...with the exception of maybe the OG davinci...I used 375 on that often.

edit:

@Shit Snacks you gotta let that mod go! I let go of my cuboid kicking and screaming...but it was the best choice I made for my attys!

No @WakeAndVape they do not share the same M#, my Splinter M# on a Evic mini is 127, my Splinter Z on a Wismec Reuleaux 2/3 in 2 battery set up is 230. I Heat on Evic mini is 120.
Yea, I stumbled upon some shooting up to 600 700 temp readings in my . Just wrong m numbers and not really hitting those temps in real life. Im hoping.

Yeah I was able to finish that bowl to my liking at 365 with a little bit of a hot spot starting to form with taste gone, same as the extraction was a little too quick for these low temps... My M is still at 130 with 45w so should I be going up? Or would that be worse should it go even lower despite y'all's M's? lol

Yeah I definitely need a better mod but I literally just got this one haha I'm surprised that the cuboid mini seems to be so much better. I'm not such a huge fan of the ergonomics of the cuboid aside from the shit screen... But I don't know if I want to be spending more money just yet to get a good DNAmod, need to sell some stuff here first!

Yea, work your way upward and see if you can bring it all up a tad @Shit Snacks . The perfect m is pretty elusive and a couple digits to or fro has it acting differently. Shoot for close enough, this works.

SloJimFizz said:

Yea, work your way upward and see if you can bring it all up a tad @Shit Snacks . The perfect m is pretty elusive and a couple digits to or fro has it acting differently. Shoot for close enough, this works.

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Okay cool I'll give that a try later, just wasn't sure because it seems like bring them yet higher would mean higher felt temperatures according to AJS?

Any idea when new stock will be in?

@WakeAndVape & @Shit Snacks: sorry guys but you exhausted my knowledge at this point, you're on your own now! Don't forget we are completely hijacking a system designed for e-liquids in the first place and our use case was never envisioned nor taken into account.

But I'll reiterate what I said in other threads a long while ago: better have a large range of usable temperatures that don't necessarily match the reality on display (just need to add or subtract an offset in your head, for instance my iHeat shows around 170°C but is much higher in reality) than trying to focus on calibrating a single temperature point on screen to match the reality, at the expense of either having very little usable range to select from and/or having all other points completely off.

Think of a straight line (in case of TCR, I use TFR myself so it's more complex as it's a real curve) You can tweak the line angle on the graph so it passes through your selected point (by changing M), but that doesn't mean the slope is right. You might also get the slope right but always display too high or too low because you need an offset of some kind (and you always need some offset because you are measuring the temp at the coil and not at the bowl anyway)

Nice post @KeroZen the straight line hitting a curve analogy is pretty good. We're trying to get our strait line on the most obtuse part of the curve, to get the most usable range.
Just looking for a usable 30-40° range that you can use wether the mod is reading 310-350f or 380-420. As long as there's consistency, and the watts being fed raise and lower to keep you where you want. Being able to see in real time the watts being used is a huge plus in this firmware for me. I haven't figured how to get temp and watts used showing on my DNA mod yet, only in the analyzer.

I got my Z recently, I paired it with my Joyetech Espion 200 running the Red Panda firmware. I am currently getting nice results running TCR 160 @38W starting at 376ºF, cold resistance locked. This seems to be a decent starting point to begin fine tuning, for me with this combination of hardware at least. I figured this may help anyone running a similar setup.

@Hollabackatcha, is there a cruise feature or equivalent in Red Panda?

Summer said:

@Hollabackatcha, is there a cruise feature or equivalent in Red Panda?

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Not that I am aware of. Although, I am still exploring it.

Received my Z and am just waiting for my box mod, so I am doing some reading and found this 101: https://vaping360.com/best-vape-mods/temperature-control/. It is helpful, but also makes the following statement: "TCR is not something to ballpark! Different wires will have different TCRs, and even within one metal type." It's frustrating that @RastaBuddhaTao is not able to share the material type or specifications, but also understood with all the 'fake vapes' that quickly pop up and eat away from already narrow margins.

@RastaBuddhaTao understanding you do not wish to share materials, perhaps you could use the wire calculator and share the results for the Z? http://www.steam-engine.org/wirewiz.html

reading this thread is fingernail bending send me the attachments and i measure them out with my thermo couple and tell you guys the correct tcr numbers

Shit Snacks said:

Yeah I definitely need a better mod but I literally just got this one haha I'm surprised that the cuboid mini seems to be so much better. I'm not such a huge fan of the ergonomics of the cuboid aside from the shit screen... But I don't know if I want to be spending more money just yet to get a good DNAmod, need to sell some stuff here first!

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I am in the same spot. I bought my RX 2/3 in July so I'm only 5 months in with it. But admittedly part of my choice was I got it for about $40 as I really didn't want to invest a huge amount in this platform. Now that I have added a SplinterZ I guess I should stop cheaping out and just get a DNA mod for it. The Splinters are great vapes and it is a shame to hold them back from what they are capable of... Fuck.

funkyjunky said:

reading this thread is fingernail bending send me the attachments and i measure them out with my thermo couple and tell you guys the correct tcr numbers

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Someone please do this! I only just got mine and just sent him my Tubo otherwise I would myself lol

I turned TCR/M down to 115 after trying 155 again (too hot at 350F) and am still fully extracting at 340 and 365F. True I could just adjust to whatever the relative numbers are for me with this specific unit, but I didn't know it would be nice and simpler if it was a bit more accurate for me and I think the performance would match. As of now it just seems to work better in power mode, so maybe a little more risk is so more controlled with this mod at least... I also adjust my watts to 40 at first then settled at 42 for my temp testing and tried to regulate my draw to be pretty fast, controlled by the air intake. I feel with power mode I was just able to control the extraction speed much better, whereas in temp control I am cashing bowls quicker even at low temps?

So I guess we should start looking into what mods are compatible with this mysurevic stuff... I'd like to get one that is much more ergonomic and maybe even less heavy, but a good fit for this spinterZ with however many batteries really

I don't hate using the Splinters in power/wattage mode, it just makes them like using a Milaana which is manual vaping. I would like, however, to use it more like a Zion which I can easily set to braindead mode (temp limited). The mod should give me much more control than I am currently able to get from it. That is where I want to end up. If that requires a new mod, so be it, I'll deal. I just would prefer not throwing more $$ at it.

cybrguy said:

I don't hate using the Splinters in power/wattage mode, it just makes them like using a Milaana which is manual vaping. I would like, however, to use it more like a Zion which I can easily set to braindead mode (temp limited). The mod should give me much more control than I am currently able to get from it. That is where I want to end up. If that requires a new mod, so be it, I'll deal. I just would prefer not throwing more $$ at it.

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what is lacking in the wismec rx2/3 you have? I have a few DNA devices and I'm actually looking to go the opposite route as you, I want to use the Tubo firmware with the Z. So far I have pretty good extraction with a paranormal 250C but that's at 330F, I have no idea how to change the TCR because the profile is plotted in a graph, lol. If I go any higher than 330 I get the “temp protect”” warning and my mod kills the heat.

I have not been able to configure the mod to allow me decent hit density (changable) while still avoiding the risk of charring or overcooking the load with long hits. If I had a way to get a good look at the screen while experimenting I might be able to improve my results but I haven't determined a good way to do that.
I get the impression from what many have said that the DNA chip is easier to manage and better at getting something akin to accurate temp control, even if the numbers may be consistently relative rather than precise.

The most ridiculous fuckin hit I've gotten. https://www.instagram.com/p/BrHPZVAj3TZ/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet

Enjoy as much as I did.

That is Cruise Mode, yes? Numbers changing without your finger on the button...

cybrguy said:

That is Cruise Mode, yes? Numbers changing without your finger on the button...

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Cruise mode TCR with the pic I sent a few days ago.

I actually just changed the tcr down from 155 to 145, 155 was a tad hot.

So you are using a previous version of the fj software. That is Tubo mode now I think?