blokenoname

DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
That's cool, seems a lot like what I was thinking. Definitely feasible for the Nano.

Did this Flashevap ever get off the ground?
Sure :D

But this was back in the mid 90's already, as the original Flash Evaporator is the grand grand daddy of the Nano and other contemporary log vaporizers, springing from the mind of Bob Burruss, together with the later Eterra, Pneuma and the New Flash Evaporator he built, and who also held the original 'Health Pipe' patent back in '79.
https://patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/40/89/0b/3a0fe9264950af/US4141369.pdf
 

Blargas541

Well-Known Member
When I click the Exotic Wood Kit link it bings up the wood choices of Fiddleback or Crotch walnut, or Male Burl.
https://epicvape.com/product/e-nano-exotic-wood-kit/#configuration
Thanks, I guess they must have updated it since I last checked a few days ago. Should've checked again before I posted, my bad!

The woods look gorgeous, so hard to decide what to get. Anyone know what type of wood the white and orange stripey one pictured on the deluxe e nano kit link is https://epicvape.com/product/e-nano-deluxe-standard-wood-kit/#wood-choice? It doesn't appear to come up when I pick the deluxe or exotic kit options, but damn it looks beautiful. Is it available for sale?

edit: 1 more question, are there exotic wood counterparts for the e-nano stand? The website only lists the classic woods for the stand, even if I'm choosing an exotic e-nano kit. Was hoping for a matching set.
 
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nadia_epic

EpicVape Team
Company Rep
How do I pick exotic woods on your website? The only option available is the 3 classic woods even if I pick deluxe or exotic kit.
Hmm, you may need to clear your browser cache. Im not able to replacate the issue you're having and we've had orders in with other wood options today. If you email me at customerservice@epicvape.com I can help troubleshoot.
 

ACE OF VAPE

Vape outside the box
Manufacturer
Pipe dreaming (make that Nano dreaming)



So during the last rainy stretch, stuck inside with the computer, the Nano and some fine Rainy Day Women I doodled up a concept of a semi wireless Nano with a magnetic power connector.


Nano-1.png


Nano3.png


Nano-4.png
Wow! Just, Wow! DM me, please. I could use some of your talents if you are looking for some work?
Morning folks :)

As I have a broken Nano incoming for repair from a mate, who acquired it 2nd hand, can somebody here please tell me, what’s the outer diameter of its heater cover/tube?

Apart from the functional defect (which hopefully shouldn’t pose much of a problem to fix, as long as the heater itself is not damaged -my money is on a lose terminal connection there or a broken cord, for which I hopefully already found a replacement-), it also comes without stems/GonGs and so I’d like to see, if I can find some fitting glass here on the European vape- or lab glass market, that can be utilised there or even cut some fitting stainless steel slide over tips myself, if I can’t find fitting glass.
Me mate might later on resort to getting some original stems/GonGs directly from Epicvape, but as importing Nano parts from the US to Europe still poses quite a hassle for the time being, I like to see first, if I can fix the unit and make it work again with what’s easily available here locally.

Having some days left before the little bugger arrives to have its problem fixed, I could then already place the orders for glass or steel, before it arrives. But for that, I need, as already stated, the OD of the heater tube.
Nice score!

Thanks in advance :D
95% of Nano failures were terminal a connector coming loose usually caused by a hapless Nano doing a nose dive off a desk onto a hardwood or concrete floor. About 3% are cords going bad, and only about 2% are heater failures. As Yogi Berra would say.' the other x% is user error.'
If no light comes on using a straight-thru cord (no dimmer, i.e. stereo cord) It's most likely a loose terminal connector.
If the light comes on but you get no heat. It's most likely a failed heater.
For the record we use 14mm glass tubing with 2.2m heavy wall thickness. All glass tubing varies a little (very frustrating!) We flame polish the ends and bring the ID down to 9.3mm. The tubes are then annealed overnight to remove any stress induced by the cutting/polishing process.
The heater tube is .375" stainless steel rod (9.53mm) machined down on the tip to: .360 (9.13-9.15mm), this leaves a stop on the heater tube for the glass to sit.
The difference between the 9.3mm ID on the glass and the 9.15 OD on the heater tube is to allow for the expansion of the stainless steel when it gets hot. BTW we ship internationally virtually everyday (45 countries to date and counting) and have had very few customs issues or delays except for Germany.

Thanks, I guess they must have updated it since I last checked a few days ago. Should've checked again before I posted, my bad!

The woods look gorgeous, so hard to decide what to get. Anyone know what type of wood the white and orange stripey one pictured on the deluxe e nano kit link is https://epicvape.com/product/e-nano-deluxe-standard-wood-kit/#wood-choice? It doesn't appear to come up when I pick the deluxe or exotic kit options, but damn it looks beautiful. Is it available for sale?

edit: 1 more question, are there exotic wood counterparts for the e-nano stand? The website only lists the classic woods for the stand, even if I'm choosing an exotic e-nano kit. Was hoping for a matching set.
The wood is ambrosia maple, I just picked up some and it is really special. They will be an option under exotics starting next week.
Exotic wood stands? I've tried but the wood is expensive, they are very labor intensive and you really can't appreciate the beauty of the wood with all the holes drilled in them, so we don't offer them. If I did, they would be a very expensive special order, and the wood would not necessarily match properly.

Mods: Sorry about the back to back post. Please feel free to merge as I'm not web smart enough.
 
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blokenoname

DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
95% of Nano failures were terminal a connector coming loose usually caused by a hapless Nano doing a nose dive off a desk onto a hardwood or concrete floor. About 3% are cords going bad, and only about 2% are heater failures. As Yogi Berra would say.' the other x% is user error.'
If no light comes on using a straight-thru cord (no dimmer, i.e. stereo cord) It's most likely a loose terminal connector.
If the light comes on but you get no heat. It's most likely a failed heater.
For the record we use 14mm glass tubing with 2.2m heavy wall thickness. All glass tubing varies a little (very frustrating!) We flame polish the ends and bring the ID down to 9.3mm. The tubes are then annealed overnight to remove any stress induced by the cutting/polishing process.
The heater tube is .375" stainless steel rod (9.53mm) machined down on the tip to: .360 (9.13-9.15mm), this leaves a stop on the heater tube for the glass to sit.
The difference between the 9.3mm ID on the glass and the 9.15 OD on the heater tube is to allow for the expansion of the stainless steel when it gets hot. BTW we ship internationally virtually everyday (45 countries to date and counting) and have had very few customs issues or delays except for Germany.

Thank you for all the detailed info there, @ACE OF VAPE :clap:


..."except for Germany" being the operative term here, which is why I want to try finding or making some fitting glass or steel tubing for tips/stems myself first :nod:

Anticipating and being well aware of the indeed very annoying tolerance issues with glass from building my own homemade log vapes (running a thread here in the DIY section), we've to see how good a fit the glass tubing from my 14 mm tapered joint glass stems, I'm getting from a German lab glass supplier, actually is here, the glass tube itself having a 12mm OD and a nominal 10mm ID, which is akin more to 9,5mm to 9,0mm +/- in real life. If all goes well, these might already fit reasonable well enough.
Seeing now, that you machine down the tip of the heater tube to 9,13-9,15mm, making some ss slide over tips from the thin walled ss tubing I use for my own logs, should then pose no problem at all. I've got 10 mm OD ss tubing in 0,3mm wall thickness at the ready here, which makes for an inner diameter of about 9,4mm and should also provide a reasonable fit and there is also always the option of adding a high temp o-ring to provide a seal.

Will have yet to see what’s up with the innards, though for the most common failures there regarding terminals and cord I’m all set so far. Got a 230v/110v ‘stereo cord’ w/o dimmer and also another one with an integrated dimmer pot (1-40w) and US NEMA1 plugs off of Amazon already, which should hopefully work there. 230v to 110v converter is included by the seller already.
If it’s the heater itself, that’s gone south… well, I’ll have to look for a fitting replacement then, though if all else fails, there is still the option to rewire the unit for use with 12v DC power and setting in a 10w ss/ceramic cartridge heater, of which I’ve still enough lying around here. But I hope, that won’t be needed.

Thanks again. I'll let you know how it worked out :)
 
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ACE OF VAPE

Vape outside the box
Manufacturer
Thank you for all the detailed info there, @ACE OF VAPE :clap:


..."except for Germany" being the operative term here, which is why I want to try finding or making some fitting glass or steel tubing for tips/stems myself first :nod:

:)
When Isay we have had difficulty with shipping to Germany, most if not all the issues have been with complete kits. Their concerns/complaints about the unit itself not being CE certified (which is why we don't currently make a specific 220v european version), and they wanted the instructions translated into German. To my recollection I don't believe we've had any issues shipping accessories to Germany I would have to check with Nadia to be sure.
 

blokenoname

DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
When Isay we have had difficulty with shipping to Germany, most if not all the issues have been with complete kits. Their concerns/complaints about the unit itself not being CE certified (which is why we don't currently make a specific 220v european version), and they wanted the instructions translated into German. To my recollection I don't believe we've had any issues shipping accessories to Germany I would have to check with Nadia to be sure.
Yep. Aware of the 'no CE certification drama' and our over sensitive customs here, and the costs for CE are beyond good & evil anyway, to say the least :p
Accessories should be good, as long as no electronics are included, AFAIK.
But then, my job is primarily in getting the unit up & running again and testing it out a bit, before sending back to my mate, who's already said, that he'll order some OG stems, GonGs and an e-pick from you then anyway ;)

Can't help with the CE, but if you ever need the instructions translated into German, just shoot me a message :nod:
 
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SloJimFizz

Unknown Member
Been doing nugs in my Nano stem lately. Breaking it down with the e pick after each pull.
Paris OG is mighty fine gong down. :luv:
Made a slight modification to my walnut Stando. Reamed out the stash spot to accommodate my Heat Island.
Nugs in the Nano @ 6.2365
Ground in the HI @ 10.3v
Two is better than one?


1yv2wn.jpg
 

Blargas541

Well-Known Member
The wood is ambrosia maple, I just picked up some and it is really special. They will be an option under exotics starting next week.
Exotic wood stands? I've tried but the wood is expensive, they are very labor intensive and you really can't appreciate the beauty of the wood with all the holes drilled in them, so we don't offer them. If I did, they would be a very expensive special order, and the wood would not necessarily match properly.

Mods: Sorry about the back to back post. Please feel free to merge as I'm not web smart enough.

Thanks for all the info! I might just bite the bullet on the ambrosia maple enano when it comes available. Guess I'll go with the plain maple stand.
 

<Delta9>

Member
After seeing a few posts about cracking nanos, I have to ask... Is there any risk to continue using one that’s cracked? I got my walnut unit a few months ago and it cracked within the first week but I’ve continued to use it because I’d miss it too much if I had to send it away.
 

arb

Semi shaved ape
After seeing a few posts about cracking nanos, I have to ask... Is there any risk to continue using one that’s cracked? I got my walnut unit a few months ago and it cracked within the first week but I’ve continued to use it because I’d miss it too much if I had to send it away.

I wonder how many people do the same thing I did with two of mine.........use them instead of returning them.
I mailed my maple back in and when it gets back I will be doing the same with the cherry unit also.
I was going to live with them being cracked but ace of vape says it was a fluke and I want to believe that also.
This time I am going to just let them sit out and acclimate to our low humidity levels for a couple months before turning on for daily use and see if that makes a difference.
 

Exsmoker

Plant Manager
Mine recently cracked, and looking back, what may have contributed to mine splitting was that I left it on high for too long. I usually turn mine off at bedtime, and the next day I crank it up to 10 for a few minutes to quickly heat it (as they suggest), then turn it back down. But that day I got sidetracked or something and left it on high for an hour or more. The nano can get pretty hot when dialed to max. Later that day is when it split. Coincidence?
 
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