TUBO evic/dual

18650 is just a cell format (18mm diameter 650mm length) I think Ni-XXX cells are usually another format, say closer or the same as AA or AAA cells. But that charger probably can handle many sizes.

I think it can handle just as many as the VT4. The only few difference that the layman (me) can see is the ability to "Refresh" Ni-MH, comes with a probe to check the battery, and the ability for it to charge other things like Drone batteries or your cell phone (all things that if you have easy access to a power outlet are not needed at that moment.) I think that I'll just stay with the VT4 as the VP4 Drag. seems to be for much more sofisticated/specialty uses. More than someone who only uses 18650's for Vaping. Although I do use special AA batteries for my security cameras but I haven't even thought about buying renewable Special AA batts until you just mentioned (i'll make sure that they are in fact be the same ones I use and can be "Refreshed" before I do anything) it but that will add a lot more than $34 cause the batteries were about $3ea and 4per camera and they aren't rechargeable. Depending on how much the Rechargeable spec AA's, if they even make the kind I need. Thank you for the crash course on 18650's and the difference between Ni-XXX types and Li cells.

All my samsung 30Q’s display a weak battery message during my entire session. Its on and off but the message is always there and i have 4 batts.
Just ordered some new ones to see if they will resolve the issue
Aside from that, excellent performance, the short stem is a little hot so im awaiting my medium capsule and long bent.
I still think mighty pumps out much bigger and denser clouds. Tubo does beat it in terms of water cooling though

For sure. I mean I hope mine won't do that but if it does ill try switching to LG HG2's to see if the same happens.

darkrom said:

@Abysmal Vapor how do you like the setup you have? Can you post info on it? How reliable has it been? I could see trying the pod or whatever on a vape that I can replace easily here in MASS. Like I said I really wanted to love this. I need on demand convection that rivals the mighty as far as reliability and hard hitting potency. I was originally waiting for the RBT thing but pulled myself off that list for a number of reasons. The mighty is wonderful but it’s not full convection but it’s also session and I’d like on demand.

So sorry if I seem like I’m negative. Just sad it’s not going to work out for my personal situation I guess.

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First i will talk about my experience with the Classic TUBO. As much as i love its looks and that it showed me the potential of the TUBO heater:
1st frustration was the battery life.. Which later proved to be due to a battery issue.
Next issue was - Device too hot message was appearing way too often. I felt like it was getting worse with time until one day it showed 000 on resistance and that was it.Tubo went on its first trip to FJ..
Even with a good battery i found myself need like 3-4 in rotation and 4 cell charger to cover my daily need,which made me DIY a power adapter which costed me like 50 euro (now lying useless in a drawer) .
After i got my TUBO back i used it only with the PA and it worked better than with batteries, i could get trough a long session without device too hot messages,but again it was present in a back to back sessions. Well sadly the EVIC part malfunctioned probably due to some factory defect, and i had to sent it second time not long after i got it back.. So i gave up on it and sold it,but i have to mention that the warranty service with FJ is very good. He replaced two evics at No cost,even though he is not to be held responsible for failure on a part that he hasnt produced,i really hope he managed to get them replaced by the manufacturer.
Meanwhile the idea of TUBOx was born. It was solution to all my problems. If the mod fries you just buy a new one, performance is much better,no device too hot messages.
I am having the Wismec RX300 which is a 4 battery mod ,i can get like 10 session with my fairly old sony vtc 5.
To someone that doesnt looks for all in one package,better aesthetics but mainly the function i recommend the TUBOx over the OG.

If i had to compare TUBO to the rest of the vapes i've tried . I can say it is the most precise vaporizer i have ever used,it balances power with your drawspeed and has very open airflow. I like it because it can deliver monster clouds even at low temps and the taste is among the best i've tried.
Please dont get the idea that it is some complicated piece of tech ,just because it offers many options. You can set it an forget if you like. Once you get over the initial "culture shock" and try not to overthink ,you will definetly be in love with it !

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Xtar chargers >Nitecore
I though my nightcore 4 slots is ok until i got the xtar 4 slots. It charges my batteries twice as fast..., more amps per cell.

Guys with weak battery messages: lower your output power and clean your contacts, the problem should be gone.

The HG2 won't give you much more than the 30Q. If you want real 20A cells then get the 25R/HE2/HE4/VTC5/VTC5A.

KeroZen said:

Guys with weak battery messages: lower your output power and clean your contacts, the problem should be gone.

The HG2 won't give you much more than the 30Q. If you want real 20A cells then get the 25R/HE2/HE4/VTC5/VTC5A.

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Do* the 25r's have more life?

Edit: Are the VTC6's any good? Their the only other "Recommended" batt besides the HG2's

I dropped max power output to 50W when I first got the Tubo, never had any issues and it didn't seem to have any real significant effect on heat up time.

KeroZen said:

Guys with weak battery messages: lower your output power and clean your contacts, the problem should be gone.

The HG2 won't give you much more than the 30Q. If you want real 20A cells then get the 25R/HE2/HE4/VTC5/VTC5A.

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How should i clean my contacts? Rubbing alcohol and qtip? And let dry
Do i have to clean the contacts in the evic or just the batteries
Also when you say output power you mean the watts? I thought 70w was already low enough?

Alcohol is not enough, you need mechanical action to break the contaminants and oxides film. You can use some fine grit sandpaper, or gently with a metal brush. You can do it both on the device and on the cells, doesn't hurt, just be careful to not damage your insulation rings on the cells positive side.

But your problem is likely due to your already aging cells and trying to pull too much amps out of them. During the initial 70W burst, they sag so much that the processor inside the evic raises the weak battery alarm. I've always claimed that 70W was too much for these 18A CDR cells you guys use.

You think 70W is low enough but it's crazy high for a single cell. Under continuous use only a few cells on the market can handle such high currents and they are not the one you use (see LG HB6 for instance or the latest Samsung)

Even if your cell only sees 70W during the initial ramp-up, the sag is instantaneous and enough to trigger the warning. Reduce your power to 50W or below and you should be good. Honestly, 50W is already a lot and you need to pull super strong through water to need that much. In other threads for on demand convection we use between 25W and 35W on average and that's plenty enough for VW and TC modes.

KeroZen said:

Alcohol is not enough, you need mechanical action to break the contaminants and oxides film. You can use some fine grit sandpaper, or gently with a metal brush. You can do it both on the device and on the cells, doesn't hurt, just be careful to not damage your insulation rings on the cells positive side.

But your problem is likely due to your already aging cells and trying to pull too much amps out of them. During the initial 70W burst, they sag so much that the processor inside the evic raises the weak battery alarm. I've always claimed that 70W was too much for these 18A CDR cells you guys use.

You think 70W is low enough but it's crazy high for a single cell. Under continuous use only a few cells on the market can handle such high currents and they are not the one you use (see LG HB6 for instance or the latest Samsung)

Even if your cell only sees 70W during the initial ramp-up, the sag is instantaneous and enough to trigger the warning. Reduce your power to 50W or below and you should be good. Honestly, 50W is already a lot and you need to pull super strong through water to need that much. In other threads for on demand convection we use between 25W and 35W on average and that's plenty enough for VW and TC modes.

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How do i change the watts?

@KeroZen As mentioned tubo balances wattage output with your drawspeed and it does that pretty well.. If the heater is not preheated and i give my best, i can pull up to 130-140 watts at the ramp up,but of course it is just for a couple seconds then no matter how hard i draw wattage drops to 50-60 range. I dont know how much doest it cost as battery life but for sure it delivers instant vapor .
Probably my 2000w vaccum cleaner can easily max it out ,but i call impossible for a human to pull all the 300watts the rx300 can deliver ).
Probably one of the reasons for the DEVICE TOO HOT messages on my OGTUBO was my barbaric draw speed,i am sure that i probably beated the shit out of it with the PA constantly maxing out its wattage and running the chip hot as hell,lowering the total wattage output might have a positive effect on the overall lifespan on the device.

I just re-discovered my love for the tubo after using the solo2 almost exclusively for quite a while.
I got one of those famous D020 bubblers and the tubo just works so well with it!
It extracts so much faster especially through water so that I can kill that one bowl within 2 or 3 hits whereas it takes several 6-8 with the solo.
Still one of my favorite devices after owning it now after more than one year! Looking forward to buying one of that stands and cork adapters.

leveltree said:

I was wondering about the option of 'silicone band', no explanation or mentioning elsewhere
Same for 'de-bowler pin' in the wooden box...
But very cool that stickers are available too now!

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valid points! i have some pics of the silicone band usage.




the debowler pin is a nail and a wooden plate glued into the lid of the wooden boxes. i find it very practical as i use the wooden boxes to dump abv.

yes finally stickers! ill gladly add them to orders when making a comment

=O
So...About that stem =D

red amboyna burl, it is MINE

i am currently waiting for the first exotic stem batch to arrive. after they are logo etched ill list them on the store. there are some like this one in there as well as macassar ebony ones, madre cacao, and some single pieces. ill have a pic when they re ready.

So awesome. It has that Airizer Solo stem look on the bottom which I really like. Can't wait and thank you for the heads up.

Nvm optical illusion, bad eyes +small screen = incorrect results lol

Hey guys , I'm looking to buy the Tubo soon but I have one question. What are the chances of combustion occurring when smoking? Doesn't combustion occur around 450 degrees and the Tubo heats up all the way to 500F? It sucks living with roomates.

Hey so im in an unfortunate position of now having my TUBO Evic but no "confirmed" real batteries (the 30q's i bought were from Ebay [stupid of me I know] and not IMR like they should've but didn't know at the time.) What is the worst thing that can happen the batteries dont have enough amperage to support the T-Evic?

You'll get a weak battery message and/or short run time. Don't worry, the evic is full of protections.

you can try them, dont worry. if the battery is weak, it will show weak battery message. if the battery is too weak (sag under 2.8V) it will restart the board and likely display a no atomizer error message, as you are still pressing the button when it restarts.

the weak battery message actually not only shows a warning, it also regulates max power to calculated max power for the battery, which can be quite low when charge is low.

KeroZen said:

You'll get a weak battery message and/or short run time. Don't worry, the evic is full of protections.

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And it wont cause any problems for the unit down the line? Im not doubting you at all I just want to be super sure everything will be ok when the 20T's & VTC5A's show up

funkyjunky said:

you can try them, dont worry. if the battery is weak, it will show weak battery message. if the battery is too weak (sag under 2.8V) it will restart the board and likely display a no atomizer error message, as you are still pressing the button when it restarts.

the weak battery message actually not only shows a warning, it also regulates max power to calculated max power for the battery, which can be quite low when charge is low.

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*Sweating Bullets*
Ok I got the green light from the man himself and the guy who taught me about batteries. Will report back shortly.

Just received my stems from lamart. Bent stem is a bit loose with the screen as a cap but the chestnut wooden capsule stem is perfect, very impressed

Ho mah gawd this thing is a killa. I haven't even completely customized it to my likings and all else I had to do in the next few hours, possibly until I sleep, are off the board. Batteries are fake though for sure, went from 96% to about 50 in less than half of 1 cruise with eco at 1 (I think that bar that says eco is the session timer right?)

Anyway im really excited but im gonna play it safe and just wait until the other batteries get here as I really don't know much about them other than the basics.

Really quick, does it start heating up when you turn it on or when you enter cruise/on-demand modes

Lets say im in cruise mode and wamt to switch to on demand. What steps have to be taken?

Esit: Nvm i'll just play with it. Thanks guys.

Azn2101 said:

Ho mah gawd this thing is a killa. I haven't even completely customized it to my likings and all else I had to do in the next few hours, possibly until I sleep, are off the board. Batteries are fake though for sure, went from 96% to about 50 in less than half of 1 cruise with eco at 1 (I think that bar that says eco is the session timer right?)

Anyway im really excited but im gonna play it safe and just wait until the other batteries get here as I really don't know much about them other than the basics.

Really quick, does it start heating up when you turn it on or when you enter cruise/on-demand modes

Lets say im in cruise mode and wamt to switch to on demand. What steps have to be taken?

Esit: Nvm i'll just play with it. Thanks guys.

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Glad you got it up and running , even with the dodgy batteries .