I will post here & link to here in Splinter thread.
All I know is that you guys owe me big time cause this is a labor of love with going forward & backward in the stream getting all the details that Ryan mentions correct & screen capturing & posting. Took me well over an hour to gather this & post! Just remember this when I finally add Red Panda or AF to my mod & I ask 100 baby questions to get the deed done. Seriously, I don't understand 90% of what you guys discuss when it comes to firmware.
***Note to all: This new design is now under provisional patent. I'm assuming that's why Ryan now feels comfortable giving us the specifics.
*1/2 of this is actually quoted verbatim from Ryan. As far as the pics, Ryan has a very white cast in his environment.
Current Splinter has 3 (embossed?) triangles on the bottom of the deck. The new deck will have 3 (debossed?) pyramids. Looks like that to me.
Triangle Pyramid
Hard to hear, but I think he said the old fitting is called D2. When you remove the bottom screw it has an insulator which insulates this positive screw from the body (which is negative through the threading).
He then unscrewed the positive post from the deck & between this post & the deck base/platform is a plastic insulator. (This is were he mentioned you,
@KeroZen, saying that "he thought you'd get up on this one.") The positive post is what connects to the heater.
Insulator Post & Insulator
He said this is OK for e-cig usage because e-cigs only faults for 2 - 4 sec and the heat is instantly absorbed by the wick, that's why the coil doesn't burn out, so it's a very low energy situation. His heater doesn't run that hot, but a really, really small heater can run hot & heat up the 510 fitting.
Now, this said, the Splinter is designed that the intake airflow through the 2 holes cools off these 2 posts on it's way in, thereby, pre-heating the air & keeping it energy efficient & keeping the wood cool, but it's also cooling off that positive post that's attached to plastic. So used within reason, the Splinter doesn't have any issues using these parts. But, that doesn't mean he shouldn't make it better.
The top mount vs. side mount provides 5mm more of heater room so he can expand the heater with a little more material & improve performance.
Bigger screw & entire base covered in ceramic. So it's not just a plastic insulator. He insulated the entire bottom so it's a thermal insulator from the heat, from the heater itself, adding an add'l layer of cooling protection to the unit.
https://www.instagram.com/rastabuddhatao/
The improvements I mentioned with the splinter was more about longevity of the unit than performance.
As Ryan said, if used within reason you won't have any issues. As far as longevity is concerned the only 2 far-fetched things I can come up with is that maybe the glue would be less apt to fail or become brittle & separate where the wood meets the deck.(although per Ryan, only the 1st batches were susceptible to this -- glue change?)
OR the wood shell would be less apt to dry out & crack. But as I said I find these 2 scenarios far-fetched -- if used within reason. But I do think 5mm's more of mesh will give a performance boost. 38W with the Z is more powerful than 38W with the Splinter. I'm presuming it's because of more heater mesh.
Topic Change___________________
As I understand it from previous RBT streams, Vapefiend's next order of 400 Splinters & Zs will all be 2 hole bubinga. A few 4-holes slipped through on VF's 1st order so unless he has some remaining on-hand
@Alexis you may be out of luck. Why don't you contact George & find out what he sent you, & if he sent you a 2-hole, & has a 4-hole in-stock, then ask him to put on it on the side for exchange. But before I use the word
exchange, I'd ask him if he has any 4-holes available.
From the above video, George/VF seems a little unknowledgable about upper wattage limit. And, having just checked out his site, it's only the Splinter that showing a selection of low & high airflow, not the 1 remaining Z. Since he's only getting 2-holes in with the next batch, why promo the 4-hole, unless all the remaining 15 were 4-holes?
![:\](/i/s/hmm.gif "Hmm :\")
I do also prefer as little draw restriction as possible so I would be really pleased to receive a 4 hole. I have good breath control.
I do agree with what Herbie said:
I have the 4 hole and feel 2 holes would suit most people. Unless your doing huge rips or thru water most user will find having some draw restriction a benefit. I went with 4 holes cause I mostly use TC mode and find draw restriction annoying.
If you use wattage mode and not a huge ripper differently get a 2 hole. The 4 hole really not going add any benefits. You might even find it harder to use. Most people find it easier to have a device restrict there breathing rate than restrict it themselves. In wattage mode only real benefit go 4 holes is if do huge rips most of the time on higher wattage. In TC mode it doesn't matter as much since its only going uses the wattage needed to maintain selected temperature.
BTW, it's a convection - conduction vapcap heater Ryan's playing around with.
@started@52, for instagram on a computer, you can see the posted pics & stories posted at
www.instagram.com, but for the IG streams & streams published after the fact (of living streaming) you need to have the app installed, which I've pinned to my Task Bar.
BTW, I know in Google Play for android users that there is an app called Story Save (not Saver) If a live stream is published, you can save that stream & view it at your leisure at a future time. You can even transfer it to your computer to free up phone memory.
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