SloJimFizz
Unknown Member
In the interface part of the menu, turn on 1C5F to get you 5° F and 1° C increments.
Love the Bent stem and riding along in Cruise mode temp stepping 5° at a time.
TUBO evic/dual
- Thread starter funkyjunky
- Start date
Love the Bent stem and riding along in Cruise mode temp stepping 5° at a time.
Nickbrick1080
Well-Known Member
Anyone have a best mod recommendation for the tubo X? I have a wismec rx 2/3 but it slowly drains the batteries when not in use and some of the settings on the FJ software dont work properly (temp step, warm up to cruise). I'm assuming it's the mod? I'm not sure.
change 'menu>vaping>ALGO' to PID, all the modes are programmed into this.
set your clicks in 'menu>interface>clicks'.
set your clicks in 'menu>interface>clicks'.
Nickbrick1080
Well-Known Member
I'll check once I get home. I copied all of the settings from my tubo evic onto the tubo x aside from coil resistance so I assumed it would work just like the evic. Warmup goes to tempstep on my evic and it also temp steps properly. I have to manually temp step with the rx2/3 and it just stays in warmup instead of going to tempstep like my evic does.
Aside from that though it works great! Absolutely love the engraving, looks amazing!
Update: the algo was not set to PID so I changed that and now the temp step works, thanks!
Aside from that though it works great! Absolutely love the engraving, looks amazing!
Update: the algo was not set to PID so I changed that and now the temp step works, thanks!
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caliganja420
Well-Known Member
What happened to the Dual evic? 
almost there
Well-Known Member
It was a limited run I believe. A few of us that was around at the time got on the waiting list and received ours end of last year but it never got too popular, think most preferred the smaller form factor. Personally I love the heavy robust feel of the dual configuration, that little pick holder on the side is a brilliant little addition also.What happened to the Dual evic?
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Gray Area
Well-Known Member
In contrast, I've barely used my dual... and while I do like the pick holder, I just far prefer my OG Tubo.
Had the pleasure of ripping the guts out of a Tubox and putting it back together again.
@Padriano and @funkyjunky thank you for putting your trust in me.
Scottish Yew and Elm
Of course I had to make sure it worked properly.
No heat soak just hit the button and go, nice big tasty cloud.
@Padriano and @funkyjunky thank you for putting your trust in me.
Scottish Yew and Elm
Of course I had to make sure it worked properly.
No heat soak just hit the button and go, nice big tasty cloud.
Vapeur Rogue
Est. 2013- Never Lookin' Back
Am envious....would love to have one of my own! The craftmanship is stellar.
Had the pleasure of ripping the guts out of a Tubox and putting it back together again.
@Padriano and @funkyjunky thank you for putting your trust in me.
Scottish Yew and Elm
Of course I had to make sure it worked properly.
No heat soak just hit the button and go, nice big tasty cloud.
Abysmal Vapor
Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
Nice one ! I use my tubox only as a desktop . Would love to get it into a log body,i prefer solid wood over glued wooden puzzle anyday ,would you mind showing me the insides in a PM or posting somewhere ?Had the pleasure of ripping the guts out of a Tubox and putting it back together again.
@Padriano and @funkyjunky thank you for putting your trust in me.
Scottish Yew and Elm
Of course I had to make sure it worked properly.
No heat soak just hit the button and go, nice big tasty cloud.
).
Wow! Great! @phattpiggie , this Tubox log is stunning! 
@Abysmal Vapor I'm not at liberty to show you the heater but here's the wood pieces.
This is the base section.
Top left is the bottom done log style. The heater cables drop thru the centre hole, crimp connections to the power cables which went out thru the side hole. As I wanted the intake to be thru a new hole I filled around the heater cables with organic cotton and fitted a Sumac disc in the base.
Bottom left is drilled to accept the glass heater tubes and at 2 o'clock you can see the air intake.
Top section has a 20mm for the glass male to go thru. The lip sits into the base.
This is the base section.
Top left is the bottom done log style. The heater cables drop thru the centre hole, crimp connections to the power cables which went out thru the side hole. As I wanted the intake to be thru a new hole I filled around the heater cables with organic cotton and fitted a Sumac disc in the base.
Bottom left is drilled to accept the glass heater tubes and at 2 o'clock you can see the air intake.
Top section has a 20mm for the glass male to go thru. The lip sits into the base.
Abysmal Vapor
Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
Thank you very much ! Why are you not at liberty to show the heater ? Is it changed somehow ? It is well shown in the start of the thread,FJ has nothing to hide about his tech,i get the feeling with him ,unlike others ,he doesnt think that wrapping a few coils together is the invention of the century worth patenting,kept secret or whatever,unless something changed though@Abysmal Vapor I'm not at liberty to show you the heater but here's the wood pieces.
This is the base section.
Top left is the bottom done log style. The heater cables drop thru the centre hole, crimp connections to the power cables which went out thru the side hole. As I wanted the intake to be thru a new hole I filled around the heater cables with organic cotton and fitted a Sumac disc in the base.
Bottom left is drilled to accept the glass heater tubes and at 2 o'clock you can see the air intake.
Top section has a 20mm for the glass male to go thru. The lip sits into the base.
) . Anyway I dig whats up. I like the way it closes,remind me of good ol Matrioska.
@Abysmal Vapor maybe 'at liberty' was the wrong phrase to use.
It didn't sit comfortably with me is perhaps the right way to put it.
Having been privvy to behind the scenes goings on for the last couple of years I can safely say there are some disgusting individuals in the vape industry who seem to have nothing better to do than bad mouth or out right steal other people's ideas and designs.
As far as I know it's the same heater set up as everyone has, I couldn't see any of the pictures FJ posted early on in the thread.
It didn't sit comfortably with me is perhaps the right way to put it.
Having been privvy to behind the scenes goings on for the last couple of years I can safely say there are some disgusting individuals in the vape industry who seem to have nothing better to do than bad mouth or out right steal other people's ideas and designs.
As far as I know it's the same heater set up as everyone has, I couldn't see any of the pictures FJ posted early on in the thread.
@Abysmal Vapor I'm not at liberty to show you the heater but here's the wood pieces.
This is the base section.
Top left is the bottom done log style. The heater cables drop thru the centre hole, crimp connections to the power cables which went out thru the side hole. As I wanted the intake to be thru a new hole I filled around the heater cables with organic cotton and fitted a Sumac disc in the base.
Bottom left is drilled to accept the glass heater tubes and at 2 o'clock you can see the air intake.
Top section has a 20mm for the glass male to go thru. The lip sits into the base.
Thanks a bunch.. Guess I'll just re-purpose this then (sigh)
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Vapeur Rogue
Est. 2013- Never Lookin' Back
Short and sweet, but Vape Critic/Bud just posted his review a few days ago- Still looking forward to joining the pack myself.
caliganja420
Well-Known Member
Need some advice!
Just received my Tubo evic and damn this thing has so many settings!
How do you guys pack your stems? Do you just pack the basket screen with no lid? Or should i place a screen about an inch deep, pack it in the stem, then use the basket screen as a cap?
Also ive heard of people using the evo bowls as well
Any tips or tricks with this thing, do i have to turn it off everytime?
Just received my Tubo evic and damn this thing has so many settings!
How do you guys pack your stems? Do you just pack the basket screen with no lid? Or should i place a screen about an inch deep, pack it in the stem, then use the basket screen as a cap?
Also ive heard of people using the evo bowls as well
Any tips or tricks with this thing, do i have to turn it off everytime?
sickmanfraud
Well-Known Member
I will answer your last question first, you do not have to turn your Tubo off, but the mod will continue to use some battery to keep things "ready" If you are going away for the weekend and not taking your Tubo you may find you come back to a drained battery.
I like to put a rimless screen in the stem and use a "top hat" rimmed screen as a cap. However, I push the internal screen only as far in as the rimmed screen extends.
There are many occasions when I only use the rimmed screen and pack that with medicine.
I suggest that you enter your resistance number and do not play with the other settings. You also want to edit the number of clicks (under interface).
Gray Area
Well-Known Member
@Rollingstoned i tried ELB's and didn't find them too good...
I usually switch between the other two methods depending on my mood etc, both work well
Good advice about the settings though. The only thing I've ever adjusted is temp. (Ok actually I switched to eco2 for cruise too, but apart from that I haven't changed anything from stock).
I usually switch between the other two methods depending on my mood etc, both work well
Good advice about the settings though. The only thing I've ever adjusted is temp. (Ok actually I switched to eco2 for cruise too, but apart from that I haven't changed anything from stock).
sickmanfraud
Well-Known Member
I asked @funkyjunky this in an pm, but if anyone here can answer sooner, I would appreciate it :
I was finally able to use a computer that is better/newer than my desktop.
I was able to put your shareware into several different mods.
My question is that what was called resistance is now called "TUBO", do we need to enter the resistance (cold) or will the shareware recognize the atomizer (TUBOx among other mods.)?
also, if the shareware sets a different resistance can we assume it is ok?
Thanks for your answers
I was finally able to use a computer that is better/newer than my desktop.
I was able to put your shareware into several different mods.
My question is that what was called resistance is now called "TUBO", do we need to enter the resistance (cold) or will the shareware recognize the atomizer (TUBOx among other mods.)?
also, if the shareware sets a different resistance can we assume it is ok?
Thanks for your answers
this is basically the service i provide with my (electronic) products.
i calibrate them using an external thermo couple. this way the calibrated resistance is found that matches the real world temperatures more or less accurately. i give this number as recommended coil resistance out with tubo heaters.
no, for tubo heaters (and imo other dry herb attachments as well) the automatically measured resistance by the mod is not correct in the above sense. the calibrated resistance lies lower in my experience than what the mods read initially.
the recommended resistance can be entered in the menu>coils>manage at line TUBO (TCR in earlier versions) and should be locked. also check menu>coils>TUBO set that M1 is at 185.
in contrast to what was often recommended in this thread, it is not necessary to enter this number in a cold state of the attachment, it does not matter.
the only moment this matters is when trying to find the "recommended" coil resistance for another attachment. as said it is likely lower than what the mod reads the cold device at. maybe freezing the attachment beforehand would work
(srsly)
also while we are at it: changing TCR numbers in menu>coils>TUBO(TCR) to correct the performance does not make sense at all. as this corresponds to if 1 degree on the mod display is also equal to 1 degree in reality and not 1.5 degrees or 0.8 degrees for example.
the number to be tweaked is the coil resistance, up for hotter, down for colder.
that said, for other heaters the tcr number truly might be different but is the same for all units with the same coil/heater metal.
the tubo software will not recognize a tubox attachment. if swapping devices the coil resistance has to be adjusted everytime.
OR use the profile function of the firmware by holding down 'fire' & '+' for 3 seconds or so.
you can have different profiles for different attachments, select them when the attachment is unscrewed.
hope this helps with tubo and non tubo heaters ill accept donations any time, lol
i calibrate them using an external thermo couple. this way the calibrated resistance is found that matches the real world temperatures more or less accurately. i give this number as recommended coil resistance out with tubo heaters.
no, for tubo heaters (and imo other dry herb attachments as well) the automatically measured resistance by the mod is not correct in the above sense. the calibrated resistance lies lower in my experience than what the mods read initially.
the recommended resistance can be entered in the menu>coils>manage at line TUBO (TCR in earlier versions) and should be locked. also check menu>coils>TUBO set that M1 is at 185.
in contrast to what was often recommended in this thread, it is not necessary to enter this number in a cold state of the attachment, it does not matter.
the only moment this matters is when trying to find the "recommended" coil resistance for another attachment. as said it is likely lower than what the mod reads the cold device at. maybe freezing the attachment beforehand would work
(srsly)also while we are at it: changing TCR numbers in menu>coils>TUBO(TCR) to correct the performance does not make sense at all. as this corresponds to if 1 degree on the mod display is also equal to 1 degree in reality and not 1.5 degrees or 0.8 degrees for example.
the number to be tweaked is the coil resistance, up for hotter, down for colder.
that said, for other heaters the tcr number truly might be different but is the same for all units with the same coil/heater metal.
the tubo software will not recognize a tubox attachment. if swapping devices the coil resistance has to be adjusted everytime.
OR use the profile function of the firmware by holding down 'fire' & '+' for 3 seconds or so.
you can have different profiles for different attachments, select them when the attachment is unscrewed.
hope this helps with tubo and non tubo heaters
ill accept donations any time, lol
caliganja420
Well-Known Member
Does anyones Ddave vapor cooler seem a little too restricted? I cant even get a decent hit with mine since i have to pull so damn hard
StormyPinkness
Rhymenocerous ʕ•ᴥ•ʔ
You sir are an artist, that is beautiful.Had the pleasure of ripping the guts out of a Tubox and putting it back together again.
@Padriano and @funkyjunky thank you for putting your trust in me.
Scottish Yew and Elm
Of course I had to make sure it worked properly.
No heat soak just hit the button and go, nice big tasty cloud.
CharmCityVapeGuy
Known to some and enigma to others
I have one and haven’t had that problem. Are you putting water in it?
caliganja420
Well-Known Member
No water