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Gear Slug .33 Rosin Forge

ClearBlueLou

unbearably light in the being....
Thanks for coming to my ballpark!
What happened? Did we drive the car into a tree.

:haw:
I double-posted

I keep thinking of things to say and ask about, so I come back and add it to the bottom... wonder circuits activated!

I think you may be the most brave on this thread learning with the fat mac is impressive in my book.

When I am ready for the fat mac I am going to PM you for pointers.

:nod:
You flatter me, I feel like I’ve figured out how to ride and not just bounce up and down on it, but only just barely. You’ve taught me a ton, knowledge and example. I will help you all I can.

Thank you
 
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steama

Well-Known Member
Slugs
BY BRIAN SWANN

Who could have dreamed them up? At least snails
have shells, but all these have is—nothing.
Small black antennae like fat pins wave
as if they could take in enough to get them through.
Turn them over, they’re the soles of new shoes,
pale and unmarked as babies. They flow,
the soil itself learning how to move and, moving,
almost staying still, their silver monorail
the only evidence of where they’d been.
And they die quiet, or at least (thankfully)
out of the human ear’s range, between two stones,
under heels, shriveling in salt or piss, at the tips
of sharp sticks. Fight back, I hear myself say,
do something. Don’t just take it. But they die
as they had lived, exuding slime, like
the smaller boys, who’d just
stand there, miserable in short pants,
school socks down to their ankles,
school tie unknotted and askew, and flowing
from noses slow cauls of snot that
from time to time they’d lick or sniff back up
part way, until it flowed again, coating
the upper lip, falling into the mouth, mixing
with tears before anything had been done,
the fear itself enough, so even if we wanted
we couldn’t let them off. Sometimes it was
the knee “where you daren’t show your mother,”
other times the kick in the shins, the stick over
the head, the punch in the mouth, while they
just stood there, or double up, gasping
for breath, and we did it again.

:peace: Peace fellow sluggers
 

ClearBlueLou

unbearably light in the being....
So I made yet another one last run. According to the scale, I extracted a full half-gram...but it doesn’t look like it (I’m subtracting the puck weight from the starting weight). No deformation or damage to the disc. Felt very confident, Oddly, the piston side of the puck had a large open area, larger that the seep disk and deeper. No idea what could account for it.

I had meant to press without the extra washer, but forgot. Oh well.

Updaate - after gathering into a container, it’s clear that I DO NOT have a half gram, not even a quarter gram. It’s good, but that means my initial weight was off...something else to buy
 
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ClearBlueLou,

steama

Well-Known Member
So I made yet another one last run. According to the scale, I extracted a full half-gram...but it doesn’t look like it (I’m subtracting the puck weight from the starting weight). No deformation or damage to the disc. Felt very confident, Oddly, the piston side of the puck had a large open area, larger that the seep disk and deeper. No idea what could account for it.

I had meant to press without the extra washer, but forgot. Oh well.

Updaate - after gathering into a container, it’s clear that I DO NOT have a half gram, not even a quarter gram. It’s good, but that means my initial weight was off...something else to buy
I notice the same thing in my pucks. I have a guess that it could be the deformation of the disc as the piston pushes it out of the cylinder into the large space at the exit?

I have been noticing that more heat can equate to more rosin as quality dips a bit. I prefer the huge gobs they taste great and more last longer. As long as the color is good I'm good to go.

Keep at it @ClearBlueLou you are getting closer with every run.

:nod:
 

-dab8-

Dyna-saur
Interesting. So I have ALWAYS gotten “slip back”. I thought that was supposed to happen, and that you still crank super slow through this part.
 

ClearBlueLou

unbearably light in the being....
That’s what I understood from the videos, and how I’ve been doing it.
BornAgainSteama does it the opposite way, and he’s likely done more presses than the rest of us combined...but I’ve never had a blowout. Maybe doing it his way would increase output?
 
ClearBlueLou,

ClearBlueLou

unbearably light in the being....
I notice the same thing in my pucks. I have a guess that it could be the deformation of the disc as the piston pushes it out of the cylinder into the large space at the exit?
:nod:
If the puck had deformed so much, I’d expect it to show the effects. I think that cavity points to underloading. Remember I said my weight was off? Looks like my load was almost half a gram light, and this is not the first time I’ve wondered if I was stacking my herb well enough for a clean weight. More proof that these tiny micro scales aren’t good / accurate unless what you’re weighing fits entirely onto the small platform. I need a larger platform that can weigh accurately to the tenth of a gram to accurately load the Slug.
 
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ClearBlueLou,

Nattybushdoctor

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
Interesting. So I have ALWAYS gotten “slip back”. I thought that was supposed to happen, and that you still crank super slow through this part.
You would be correct. Most of the time.

I used to always get slip back
But when I slowed my crank down at the very end I can avoid it sometimes and get better results


I got my BS-400 today - supposedly the ion lite before they re brand it

It def has a smaller but more powerful looking flame

I will try a squish in a while and see if my heat times come down to 1.50 as @Nattybushdoctor suggests instead of the 3.50 I have had to do

I will see if the results vary at all too in yields and colour etc...


EDIT:

So I do not know if this is the same as the ion lite or not - I did read on here that it is before it is rebranded

I ended up having to heat for an extra minute than with the torch I already had - 4.50 this time

Only as I am now good with my slug did I know to continue heating

I got the same yields as with my other torch, I do think the rosin is a slightly lighter colour though instead of darker

My pucks look similar too

Otherwise, same rsults but actually an extra minute of heat time - so still no where near the 1.50 suggested by @Nattybushdoctor
But I am able to use my slug and I do know how to "feel" and know when to crank and how long etc now....
It truly is an analogue unit where you need to work out how to get the best out of your own slug and torch

I believe most ppls issues are underheating though

Do not fear the sound of the sizzle....it seems to be a part of the process as is a little "smoke" and you oft need to keep heating past that point

It is a feel thing too....kind of keep heating till you finish cranking almost...you can feel it get "squishy" when it needs cranking and is doing it's thing....
If it gets "hard" to crank it prob needs more heat

I do not know if I can get it down to 1.50 nor do I know how this is possible unless that ion is it's own thing all together

However except in interest of wondering if I can get bigger yields with a different torch and quicker heat times - I am not sure that I need to

The extra min tonight seemed to give a lighter colour too so poss better?

Dunno

Still love mu slug and wish the rest of you luck in getting satisfying results

I mostly get 10 -20%

I think maybe that is the material...

I do think that the front of my pucks look like they may have more in them due to colour - I think this is because there is no heat on the backing plate

But I believe I am getting most of what I can from this unit
Feeling the flower soften as you compress is a great and it is one of the ways to judge your extraction, but I have found that it is not totally reliable. Harder nuggets of flower may not feel the same, this is why I totally rely on heat times.
 
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ClearBlueLou

unbearably light in the being....
I made the mistake of forgetting to crank for the first :90 on my last press. I don’t think it hurt my results, but it’s exactly the sort of thing I must remember. The fact is, though, I don’t think this batch is especially resinous, I got none at all the time I forged it before. I’ll look around for something squeezer.

Using a stopwatch instead of a timer made a surprisingly big difference, I was able to see exactly where I was at any point in the process, there’s no juggling or fumbling trying to cycle the timer.

My Pad has a built-in stopwatch function, nice and legible.
 
ClearBlueLou,
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Ramahs

Fucking Combustion (mostly) Since February 2017
I feel like everyone is going to tell me that I am a stupid asshole for asking...but I'm doing it anyway ...i assume that there mist be a good reason that we press something like kief ok, but we DO NOT want to press ground material. Does it just blow out if you use ground material, or what?

Does it increase "seepage" around the press/center pin and out the top, maybe?
 
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ClearBlueLou

unbearably light in the being....
Just for mental exercise, I’ll guess the way ground canna aligns under pressure, versus the way kif would compact. Curious to know the answer.

If you are using the seep kit, I’d think you would get no seepage.

I’ll bet @Nattybushdoctor can tell us

Just for mental exercise, I’ll guess the way ground canna aligns under pressure, versus the way kif would compact. Curious to know the answer.

If you’re using the seep kit, I’m reasonably sure you’d get none.
 
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ClearBlueLou,
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Nattybushdoctor

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
May not feel the same exactly is true - but you still feel the difference from pre heated to softer when heated and crankability

I also follow times but it is a mix of times and feel

Same as diff buds have diff squish some need more/less heat

Also using your heat times I wasted much weed

At the higher heat times I get results- even with maybe the correct torch..
Actually got lighter colour on last longest run

I would like to be able to compare a quick heat time to see the difference in results though
I just have not been able to find a torch that replicates your times

I think it is definitely a mix of feel and times though once you know your time mark

very good, whatever works for you. Our heat times are just a recommendation, different flame intensities and torches will all vary. Generally we want our material to be under heat and pressure for the least amount of time.
@Ramahs Ground material works great. No problemo. The seep kit is the bee knees or the cats ass, I love it. If you are using it correctly your forge and plunger will always remain clean. Seepage will come out the back if the material you are using is ground or nugs and it has the resin within it. If you do not have a seep kit you can drastically reduce seepage if not eliminate most of it by compressing your flower further before heating and continuing to do so while heating thus driving the flower away from the heat source.

You go slow to prevent the slug slipping back
Always go slow

But if it does slip back at the very end (which does happen sometimes) you need to crank quick to close the gap before blow out happens


As for seep kits - mine are white and I have had two fall apart after a few runs
They do fall apart after some use

I guess that is why they are free shipping on replacements

I do not clean them though, they are reasonably clean after a good press
Silicone discs will last a long time if we do not compress to hard.
 
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Nattybushdoctor

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
A test has never been done, I think we should do one. I do know that if you are doing one two or three extractions a week, one disc should last months. I will say that clamping down extremely hard on your forge will greatly shorten their lifespan. Just snugging up tight but not too tight is the key to long life for your discs.
 

Ramahs

Fucking Combustion (mostly) Since February 2017
So then, what's the difference in outcome with ground material vs whole buds...and why do most people seem to prefer whole bud instead of ground material?
 

Nattybushdoctor

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
Well, I dont have a lot of experience with ground flower, but my logic tells me, why would I want to grind up and break the resin heads before an extraction when I dont have to. I would assume that would make for a lesser quality extraction? but then again I really dont have the experience to back that up. In short, it seems like an extra and un needed step as well.
 

Ramahs

Fucking Combustion (mostly) Since February 2017
Hmmm...that went from "ground material works great. No problemo." to "why would I want to grind up and break the resin heads before an extraction"..."I would assume that would make for a lesser quality extraction".

Now I don't know what to believe. The latter statements contradict the former.
I guess I'll just keep using nugs rather than risk wasting a gram by grinding.
 

ClearBlueLou

unbearably light in the being....
...who will rise to the call of SCIENCE!? :science: :bowdown: :myday: :lol:

A test has never been done, I think we should do one. I do know that if you are doing one two or three extractions a week, one disc should last months. I will say that clamping down extremely hard on your forge will greatly shorten their lifespan. Just snugging up tight but not too tight is the key to long life for your discs.
I’m already underway. Brand new, now used twice, wiped clean w/ prep pads after each press. I’ll continue to use this one until it undoes itself. I’ll comment in here as things change.

I have closed the vise completely each time, no give left, so you say that’s the hardest, I’ll keep doing it that way for consistency.

Now that ground is a reasonable experimental option, I wish I still had a spare eighth, I’d run it.
 
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ClearBlueLou

unbearably light in the being....
Heard back on my quick-release induction ideas: current state of thought seems to be that the coil needs to be TOO TIGHT to be removed while the slug is hot...thinking will continue.

UPDATE - a bit more detail: any sort of quick-removal scheme runs the risk of becoming dangerously hot - too hot for safe removal. This closes down the idea of a coil allowing faster pressing cycles, as the coil and slug would have to cool down to a finger-safe temp BEFORE you could move the slug and gather your goods, then clean and reload. This per 710Coils, who knows at least as much about the matter as any of us.

In short, it seems that all the reasons for NOT coiling your Slug turn out to be sound and that’s it. The thinking goes on, but for now, I’m not going to invest in trying to make it happen until something changes.
 
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Gonzo_Dabs

Well-Known Member
So after several pressed trying both heating methods (heating for 30 seconds before twisting vs heating and twisting right away) and it's pretty obvious that Steama is correct. I've had significantly more when heating and twisting off the bat. I've been having alot of success lately. I might move up to the Deuce soon.

One issue I find with the coils. How far down the body of the slug do y'all plan to have it? How close to the paper would it be? I wonder if it would scorch the paper since I imagine you'd want coils down the whole unit for even heating.
 
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PPN

Volute of Vapor
About the concern to press on parchment with a risk to transfer some silicone in your oil... what about to use a polymide sheet... seems pretty resistant and might to be easy to get the rosin off the sheet... here a link to the Inhalater website where the polymide properties are listed:
http://inhalater.com/technology-2/
 
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