Discontinued The RBT Milaana (unregulated single 18650)
- Thread starter RastaBuddhaTao
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analytika
Well-Known Member
More room in there for a MOSFET than i realized. Plenty, it seems. It's my only real criticism of the @RBT design.I can´t edit my post. I was working and just came home but I have uploaded my photos in another server. Here they are, the original post is above. Maybe @Stu could fix this?? Sorry for the inconvenience I didn´t know Imgur was not working.
b0
Cloudy...
KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
Better design overall. It's safer (prevents the button from getting stuck when arcing creates micro-welds) and better for the vape longevity (by removing arcing, as the switch will only see very low currents, you improve its service life, because arcing slowly eats its contacts otherwise)
That being said, it's easier to find MOFSETs for 2S (dual cells in series) than for 1S. It needs to have a very low Vth (gate threshold) otherwise it will not be fully opened and you'll lose some power as heat in the FET itself.
That being said, it's easier to find MOFSETs for 2S (dual cells in series) than for 1S. It needs to have a very low Vth (gate threshold) otherwise it will not be fully opened and you'll lose some power as heat in the FET itself.
Keep practicing. You'll get it. The technique changes a bit, too, with battery charge. I don't, really, go below 3.8 before changing. Get yourself, if you don't already have them, 4-5 18650's. That way you always have fresh charged ones!
TeeJay1952
Well-Known Member
If you wrote a review with fresh bats vs 4 stems after or the 2 remaining you would have a different report on same device.
Any news on Milaana 2 Exotics paid for one a while ago
F1Ysociety480
New Member
i bought a used milaana the other day and received it in the mail today. however it didnt come with the cover screw to lock the battery in place. does anyone know what size this cover screw is and/or where i can get a replacement?
You could either take it with you to the Hardware Store or search through the 425pages of this Thread! Its somewhere in here as others have had the same issue. You could also email RBT directly Im sure they will know! Maybe somebody who HAS a good answer will chime in???
F1Ysociety480
New Member
haha ya i have been searching in this thread a bit looking for an answer. i found this amazon link someone suggested: https://www.amazon.com/Thumb-Nuts/b?ie=UTF8&node=16410121
i dont know much about this type of stuff but i am thinking i can go to home depot tomorrow and get what i would need but im mostly unsure of size. is M3 a size?
i dont know much about this type of stuff but i am thinking i can go to home depot tomorrow and get what i would need but im mostly unsure of size. is M3 a size?
buddingglasshead
Well-Known Member
It is M3. Just double checked with a M3 screw I had handy. Really anything should do as the power is being run through the copper.
Whissmu
Well-Known Member
Almost correct (what is the emoji for trying not to sound like a dick?)
The power does go through the copper but the nut is what makes best contact with the thread and also the copper so it forms an integral part of the circuit. Flowing from copper through the nut and then the post...
This is most evident when a film of dirt builds up between nut and copper and performance drops and you get heating at the nut! Clean between and everything is fine again.
But yeah really anything that fits the thread will work...
I'm pretty sure I remember someone found a wingnut that worked... Looked pretty cool.
@F1Ysociety480 do you have the copper tab and guitar pick? I'm surprised that someone would sell one without the nut and not at least mention it was missing
FusterCluck
Well-Known Member
Anyone know how to get a hold of RBT? I sent them a notice about my Milaana no longer heating up at all. Never overheated it and barely used it compared to my other vapes.
Tried their website, never got a message back from them.
Tried their website, never got a message back from them.
KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
There are so far only 3 known failure modes for this device (not counting broken or loose glass, wood charring and bottom cap falling) and two of them are an easy fix for the end user.
The 3rd is not supposed to happen anymore on more recent devices, but it's also fixable, albeit a tad more involved.
1) bend internal battery tab back up to insure a strong contact with the cell
2) thoroughly and abrasively clean the post, the nut and the copper tab
and 3) if you had the post unscrewing itself or getting loose at some point, the wire at the other end might have freed itself and/or is not making good contact anymore. In which case you need to remove the bottom cap (hitting it gently through the battery compartment worked for me...although it was not intended!) to access the other side of the post (which is just a long screw actually) and then you can re-crimp the wire between the wood and the screw head (or better, apply a dab of solder like I did, this time on purpose!)
If you don't want to open your device, screwing the post fully counter-clockwise did the trick for me. Only works if the electrode wire didn't move sideways and is still close to the screw head.
The 3rd is not supposed to happen anymore on more recent devices, but it's also fixable, albeit a tad more involved.
1) bend internal battery tab back up to insure a strong contact with the cell
2) thoroughly and abrasively clean the post, the nut and the copper tab
and 3) if you had the post unscrewing itself or getting loose at some point, the wire at the other end might have freed itself and/or is not making good contact anymore. In which case you need to remove the bottom cap (hitting it gently through the battery compartment worked for me...although it was not intended!) to access the other side of the post (which is just a long screw actually) and then you can re-crimp the wire between the wood and the screw head (or better, apply a dab of solder like I did, this time on purpose!)
If you don't want to open your device, screwing the post fully counter-clockwise did the trick for me. Only works if the electrode wire didn't move sideways and is still close to the screw head.
analytika
Well-Known Member
Talk to him live on Instagram, he's live casting a couple of hours a day.
FusterCluck
Well-Known Member
Thanks for that. Tried cleaning the connections to no avail. Bent the tab up a bit and that didn't work either.
I am nervous about bopping the bottom off of it. But, I guess I'll give it the ole college try.
Vapeur Rogue
Est. 2013- Never Lookin' Back
Hello
I could use some help- feeling like an infant with no dexterity-I took the pick and copper parts off to polish my new Milanna, and somehow can not seem to get things lined up so the threads attach again? I have the 2 washers, copper piece, plastic pick and top screw. Very frustrated. Tried 4+ times, Can anyone kindly advise?
I could use some help- feeling like an infant with no dexterity-I took the pick and copper parts off to polish my new Milanna, and somehow can not seem to get things lined up so the threads attach again? I have the 2 washers, copper piece, plastic pick and top screw. Very frustrated. Tried 4+ times, Can anyone kindly advise?
almost there
Well-Known Member
I’m pretty sure this was the way I received mine but my apologies if I’m incorrect, this in the order from bottom up - washer, guitar pick, washer, copper plate, copper alligator teeth washer, nut. Hope this helps, Please feel free to correct me anyone.
Vapeur Rogue
Est. 2013- Never Lookin' Back
Thank you!
I tried the stack washer, guitar pick, washer copper plate, and what I referred to as "top screw"- and noticed that somehow I had lowered the center thread. So after negotiating that and winding it back up/out, I was able to gain enough length for purchase. I can safely say this was a case of user inattentiveness. Remedied!
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