StemPod by MPL

fogbank

Well-Known Member
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/insta-heat-aka-iheat.24839/

http://www.toasty-top.com/shop.html

All my wooden stems are from Alan he produces some awesome wooden stems and other products. Send him a PM here I'm sure he help you get just the stem you like. He also produce them for the Lil Bud.

Ordering a black wood for stempod should look great together.

Thanks for the tips! I will look into these options. In the meantime I'm still using my broken stock stem (at least until I receive a new one from Dan). It would be nice to have both wood and glass options.

Got my SP a couple of days ago.
Been dialing in the technique on wattage and got some good stems in last night.

Currently running at 0.24ohms 40watts. I wait until the coils glow which doesn't take more than 2-3 seconds, then I re-tap the power button to reset the puff timer and away I go.

I started doing this yesterday and it made a significant difference in vapor production. I'm also using AF firmware on my Eleaf Pico 75w, set at .24 ohms and 40 watts, and I was concerned that the maximum 15 second puff cutoff in AF would be to short. By giving it a 2-3 second pre-heat and then re-tapping the power button, I'm getting good vapor production easily before the cutoff.
 

Bdubbdiblets

Well-Known Member
Alright been on the unregulated train lurking around these dry herb atty parts for a while now....

Dove in...to fight FC VAS is futile...

Like some have proclaimed ima total absolute nooby noob when it's comes to mods...

I have a Tubo so naturally I grabbed a evic mini vtwo as the mod world is far too vast and overwhelming as a noob...

My question is do I need to do anything to the evic to work out of the box? Is the FJ firmware a must? Is the evic good enough for the SP?

Getting excited...any other recommendations for a mod box dry herb atty layman would be much appreciated!

:rockon::drool:
 

HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
Alright been on the unregulated train lurking around these dry herb atty parts for a while now....

Dove in...to fight FC VAS is futile...

Like some have proclaimed ima total absolute nooby noob when it's comes to mods...

I have a Tubo so naturally I grabbed a evic mini vtwo as the mod world is far too vast and overwhelming as a noob...

My question is do I need to do anything to the evic to work out of the box? Is the FJ firmware a must? Is the evic good enough for the SP?

Getting excited...any other recommendations for a mod box dry herb atty layman would be much appreciated!

The evic should work fine. I would load FJ onto it. You have a tubo so might as well start with something you are use too.

You need to decide if going just TCR or TRF setting for coil material resistance. If you decide use TRF, I posted a file couple post back with a 316L csv file can use. Honestly I'm not even sure if can use TRF with FJ firmware? I think Dan also listed TCR setting for the new coils in a recent post.

There's also tons of useful info in this thread on setting up Mods.

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/tc-box-mods-firmware-discussions-and-customizing.23742/page-3
 

TNT_error

Well-Known Member
Alright been on the unregulated train lurking around these dry herb atty parts for a while now....

Dove in...to fight FC VAS is futile...

Like some have proclaimed ima total absolute nooby noob when it's comes to mods...

I have a Tubo so naturally I grabbed a evic mini vtwo as the mod world is far too vast and overwhelming as a noob...

My question is do I need to do anything to the evic to work out of the box? Is the FJ firmware a must? Is the evic good enough for the SP?

Getting excited...any other recommendations for a mod box dry herb atty layman would be much appreciated!

:rockon::drool:

If you don't mind using wattage mode, any mod with at least 40w will do. Wattage mode is like using an unregulated vape, but way faster so you won't have a learning curve.
 

Bdubbdiblets

Well-Known Member
The evic should work fine. I would load FJ onto it. You have a tubo so might as well start with something you are use too.

You need to decide if going just TCR or TRF setting for coil material resistance. If you decide use TRF, I posted a file couple post back with a 316L csv file can use. Honestly I'm not even sure if can use TRF with FJ firmware? I think Dan also listed TCR setting for the new coils in a recent post.

There's also tons of useful info in this thread on setting up Mods.

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/tc-box-mods-firmware-discussions-and-customizing.23742/page-3

Thank you for the info....

If I may put my ignorance on display a tad more...Could you expand a little on the tcr trf thing? Sounds like I need to load FJ firmware then something else? The goal is to have it regulated temp wise like the tubo (at least for me as I have plenty of great unregulated options...)

Thanks again wonderful community!

:rockon:
 

GreenHopper

20 going on 60
The Future is NOW. The TUBOx is a two piece 510 attachment that is made specifically to allow the use of water filtration.

Thanks but I meant a $10 - $15 cable accessory capable of handling the wattage that let's me use the "StemPod" 10cm-15cm from the mod.

I want a TUBOx as well because I'm a maniac but this is the SP thread so I'm specifically referring to accessories for the SP so that I can register my interest for such a feature/accessory with @supershredderdan. He may one day make such an accessory if enough interest is shown.

I did have a play with some 510 goose neck extensions when playing with another 510 dry herb atty but they didn't handle the wattage all that well. The cable got hot, the atty did not, plus they were too short so you needed 2x of them.

images

https://www.pbdragon.com/lair/adapters/911-510-gooseneck-extension.html
 

Abysmal Vapor

Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
lol there's not a single thread where @sickmanfraud didn't promote the Tubo and it's variants! You sure love'em man! :rofl:
True that. I advise you not to buy one,because you will probably become an object of your own joke .. :p It is wonder noone recommends the vapcap as a better alternative to the stempod.. :DI love the threads where someone is looking for an electric portable or desktop and he gets recommended a butane powered vape because it is so damn sexy,rofl..
Anyway to the STEMPOD subject. Now that you have all played around with it,do you manage to get decent results with the new coils or alternative coil builds where there is no COIL glow at all ?
 

Hippie

Well-Known Member
Yes Sir
That is happening :science:

I have been running dual 6.5 wrap oval horizontal spaced 26/32 or 22/32 SS (sorry :doh:) claptons I made by wrapping round a trimmed down lollipop stick that comes out at .16ohms which holds temp effortlessly for a quick extraction or a longer drawn out cruise session.
I check for glow with the top off at temp and by blowing over the coils and watching the mod react to the temp drop as it reapplies the power to get back up to heat, and turning up the target temp to see where it starts to glow, when I'm testing new coils.
I get no glowing in the normal working temp range, they start to change colour at about another 20C over the values I'm using (altho I'm still tinkering as my target temp reads 210 atm)
Which is about what I was aiming for, I think??
 

supershredderdan

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
Thanks but I meant a $10 - $15 cable accessory capable of handling the wattage that let's me use the "StemPod" 10cm-15cm from the mod.

I want a TUBOx as well because I'm a maniac but this is the SP thread so I'm specifically referring to accessories for the SP so that I can register my interest for such a feature/accessory with @supershredderdan. He may one day make such an accessory if enough interest is shown.

I did have a play with some 510 goose neck extensions when playing with another 510 dry herb atty but they didn't handle the wattage all that well. The cable got hot, the atty did not, plus they were too short so you needed 2x of them.

images

https://www.pbdragon.com/lair/adapters/911-510-gooseneck-extension.html
I actually have one of these somewhere, they are really ridged though and overall a pain to use, at least in my experience. anyone else used these?
 

GreenHopper

20 going on 60
I actually have one of these somewhere, they are really ridged though and overall a pain to use, at least in my experience. anyone else used these?

I don't mind the rigidity so much but the length is too short and daisy chaining them means you end up with 2x connectors in the middle.

Personally I'm not so bothered by the gooseneck feature. I'd be more than happy with a basic cable capable of handling the wattage with a male 510 connector at one end and a female 510 connector at the other end. I'd prefer the end 510 connectors to be perpendicular to the cable (L-shape connector) but I'd happily accept a straight connector if that was the only available option.
 

HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
Thank you for the info....

If I may put my ignorance on display a tad more...Could you expand a little on the tcr trf thing? Sounds like I need to load FJ firmware then something else? The goal is to have it regulated temp wise like the tubo (at least for me as I have plenty of great unregulated options...)

Thanks again wonderful community!

Here some info on the subject :) My mod isn't able to run FJ firmware so not sure what are best settings. Dan includes TCR in the stempod manual. It be the correct one for included coils.

Edit==215 TCR Clapton Coil is listed on his web site. I would use that value.


There are a lot factors that must come together to have an accurate TC reading on a mod. A mere couple hundredths of an ohm can make a big difference with some of the wire being used.

The manufacturer of the board
Top tier, the Evolv DNA line (made in the USA), but there are other good boards like Yihi, FSK, Dicodes, etc

2nd tier boards generally wont be as accurate, and wont have as many options to tweak. Generally, if the Mod is $50 or less it is probably a 2nd tier board inside.

2nd tier boards can often be improved by running the Arctic Fox software and Firmware and Tubo Evic which adds functionality very similar to Evolv's Escribe software.

How well the mod was constructed, specifically with respect to the solder joints to the 510 connector, and the solder joints to "ground".

A cold or poor solder joint can increase resistance which will throw your measured temp off.

Is it a quality 510 connector, many spring loaded connectors dont have enough tension

Was the mod calibrated to account for internal resistance Better boards will allow you to plug in an "offset" resistance to compensate for the accumulated resistance of the the 510 and internal solder joints

The accuracy of the TCR or TFR curve being used with respect to the material used in coil.

The vast majority of TC mods (FSK being the exception) rely on "knowing" what resistance to expect at a certain temperature. This relationship is expressed as either TCR or a TFR.

TCR (Temperature Coefficient of Resistance) which is a single number that the TC Mod will use in its algorithms to calculate the temperature.

TFR (Temperature Factors of Resistance) which is a series of numbers representing a curve of numbers that the TC Mod will use in its algorithms to calculate the temperature. IMHO the TFR is the more accurate of the two methods since the relationship is usually not linear.


The bottom line is that ANYTHING that might increase the resistance in your mod/atty/coil will cause your temperature reading to be inaccurate.

Some tips

Search out your mod info. Different mods use TCR values differently it seems.

https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/t...tcr-tfr-for-all-the-different-tc-mods.742439/

Most TC mods will allow you to set a maximum wattage, set this wattage to be about 25% higher than the wattage you vape at. This is only necessary in the beginning as you learn TC. Once you have learned it, and are comfortable with your Mod being accurate, then you can adjust your wattage, as the TC (technically temperature "limiting") will automatically limit the wattage to keep you from going over-temp

Dont take a "hot" atty off of another mod and then put it on a TC mod, the results will not be good. A TC mod measures (what it assumes is) the "cold resistance" the first time you attach it to use as a baseline. If you attach a HOT atty your baseline will be off and your temperature readings will not be accurate.

More advanced reading on this subject

https://www.ecigssa.co.za/guide-to-fine-tuning-temp-control-vaping.t18206/
 
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fogbank

Well-Known Member
Good news for those using the following mods that want cruise control. FJ firmware is good but this allows similar features and supports addition mods.

...snip...
  • Eleaf

Regarding the "sur_myevic" firwmare, it does not install on an Eleaf Pico 75w using either firmware updater I've tried (AF and Eleaf). I'm not sure what Eleaf models are supported, but the Pico 75w does not appear to be one of them.

I check for glow with the top off at temp and by blowing over thea coils and watching the mod react to the temp drop as it reapplies the power to get back up to heat, and turning up the target temp to see where it starts to glow, when I'm testing new coils.

I've read this whole thread, and I recall people discussing coil glow and why it may be undesirable. But I've been using convection vapes with glowing coils for years, starting with the Thermovape T1 and going through the Firefly. I would bet that there's something glowing in the Grasshopper's heater too, although I can't see it. I don't see a glowing coil as undesirable. What is it specifically that people are concerned about?
 
fogbank,

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
@fogbank >> http://www.ecigarette-research.org/research/index.php/research/research-2015/212-db

But to sum up the reasons are:
  • reducing oxidation and the possible creation of harmful compounds
  • increasing heating element service life
  • minimizing release of metal (nano) particles in general
There are still many unknowns and nobody proved that chronically sucking hot air from a hair drier, a toaster or a soldering iron was perfectly safe.

If you need to replace your coils or if they fail, it's the clear proof that the metal integrity was compromised and parts of its content moved elsewhere... if that place is your lungs, then it's probably not desirable and perhaps even unhealthy.
 

Hippie

Well-Known Member
The metal starts to fall apart at higher temps as the impurities that are added to give the metal different specific properties come to the surface where they form oxides and potentially end up in your lungs, is the way i understand it.
At exactly what temp that starts or whether it's really an issue or not for us, I don't know.
I'm OK with some colour change but I'm trying to avoid any cherry glowing so the coils end up iridescent or golden colours when they cool and not form that dull layer you get on the surface when you take them up to higher temps.
 
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KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
Yeah, I try to avoid going past purple for stainless steel for instance, dark blue at the very most. With a thick enough wire gauge (between 18ga and 22ga) it's perfectly possible to make coils that don't need to glow at all yet still produce enough heat for on-demand convection. They stay mostly shiny grey with sometimes some slight golden coloration.

With higher gauges (i.e. smaller wire diameters, yeah I know it's backwards and non-intuitive) you often get way past blue. At some point like @Hippie said you end up with a dull powdery texture, like if the metal was toasted.

2e7bc46e562923cf0141095cc850ecc2.jpg


Beware also that you should NEVER use Titanium coils in Power (Wattage) mode. It should always be used in TC mode. Titanium will ignite explosively like magnesium past a certain temperature, and you really don't want to be deeply inhaling when it happens!
 

Haze Mister

Verdant Bloomer
Manufacturer
It would be really cool to see a glass stem encased in black silicone and steel in a shape that makes the whole thing look more like a fat e-liquid tank... for brazen "stealth" vaping in public !
 

HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
@HerbieVonVapster, wouldn't the sur-myevic firmware only support the same Eleaf mods as the FJ firmware? You posted the FJ mod support list & only these Eleafs were listed:

Eleaf
  • Invoke
  • iKuu
  • Vaponaute La Petite Box
.

No my mistake sur_myevic supports some newer mods than FJ firmware does. I thought it supported the same mods that AF supports. First info I found on compatible hardware was on a Russian forum that I copy pasted here.

I double checked and found this post. So here is there official supported devices. Sorry about any confusion my early post caused.


This is on their page...
Compatible hardwares
  • Joyetech
    • eVic VTC Mini
    • eVic VTC Dual
    • eVic VTwo Mini
    • eVic VTwo
    • eVic AIO
    • eVic Basic
    • eGrip II / Light
    • Cuboid
    • Cuboid Mini
    • Cuboid 200
    • Evic Primo v1 / v2
    • Evic Primo mini
    • Evic Primo SE
  • Wismec
    • Presa TC75W
    • Presa TC100W
    • Reuleaux RX75
    • Reuleaux RX200S
    • Reuleaux RX2/3
    • Reuleaux RXmini
    • Reuleaux RX300
    • Sinuous (Predator) 228W
    • Reuleaux RX Gen3
    • Reuleaux RX Gen3 Dual
    • RX2 20700
    • Sinuous P80
    • Sinuous FJ200
  • Eleaf

  • Invoke

  • iKuu i200

  • Others
    • Vaponaute La Petite Box
 

Oogendoogan

Well-Known Member
I just installed the new Clapton coils that are the new stock coils. I’m getting a resistance reading of .28 is this normal? If so should I use the tcr value of 210 for these coils? Thanks for any advice. It is much appreciated. Hope everyone is enjoying they’re stempod.
 
Hey all!
I'm just wondering, do we get an email or anything when our order has been despatched? Or does anything change on the modpod order page? It's just my order shows as processing( for about 5 days now) and wondering wether that's normal or I have fucked something up on the payment.
 

supershredderdan

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
Hey all!
I'm just wondering, do we get an email or anything when our order has been despatched? Or does anything change on the modpod order page? It's just my order shows as processing( for about 5 days now) and wondering wether that's normal or I have fucked something up on the payment.
We have fully caught up on the que, pm me your order number and I'll see if it has in fact shipped and give you tracking.

Everyone should be getting a tracking email if they ordered through the site, let us know if that isn't the case
 

Vape Donkey 650

All vape, no smoke please.
Yes Sir
That is happening :science:

I have been running dual 6.5 wrap oval horizontal spaced 26/32 or 22/32 SS (sorry :doh:) claptons I made by wrapping round a trimmed down lollipop stick that comes out at .16ohms which holds temp effortlessly for a quick extraction or a longer drawn out cruise session.
I check for glow with the top off at temp and by blowing over the coils and watching the mod react to the temp drop as it reapplies the power to get back up to heat, and turning up the target temp to see where it starts to glow, when I'm testing new coils.
I get no glowing in the normal working temp range, they start to change colour at about another 20C over the values I'm using (altho I'm still tinkering as my target temp reads 210 atm)
Which is about what I was aiming for, I think??

That's a great development, @Hippie, accomplishing what many of us are trying to do with our SPs, coil-wise. :clap:

Would you mind elaborating on your coil wire specs so the rest of us can try to obtain something just like it?

What kind of claptons, staggered, fused, other? Depth, width, how many wraps / loops? 26/32, 22/32? There's so many types and I don't know what all this means.

Is it something like this?
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10051333/9663138-authentic-xfkm-316l-stainless-steel-staggered
Material 316L Stainless Steel
E-Cigarette
Coil AWG (26*32*2)/32 AWG
Depth 1 mm
Width 2 mm

9663138-1.jpg



Or more like this?
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10050591/9654697-authentic-coilology-316l-stainless-steel-fused

Material 316L Stainless Steel
E-Cigarette
Coil AWG 2*28/38 AWG
Depth 0.4 mm
Width 0.8 mm


9654697-3.jpg


Or maybe this one? (looks cool)
Material 316L Stainless Steel
E-Cigarette
Coil AWG (26/32)*2/32 AWG
Depth 0.8 mm
Width 1.3 mm


https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10038856/9623118-pirate-316l-stainless-steel-staggered-fused

9623118-3.jpg


I see Dan is selling the new standard claptons on the MPL website, and that's not terribly expensive, but you can get lots of pre-made wire in a spool or pre-made coils for much cheaper. But I don't know which one to buy. :D I'm not a metal coil winding or e-cig pro, but looping up some coils using some pre-wrapped wire doesn't seem beyond my abilities. :shrug:

This might seem pretty cheap on my end, but it kind of sucks how I got all these extra notch coils, since I opted for early delivery on my pre-order SP, and now they will just collect dust once I get some less-glowing coils installed in my SP deck. Idk if I'm being overly paranoid but I'd like to no longer worry about inhaling these metal oxides and impurities from my hard-working & effective, yet well-oxidized notch coils...:uhoh: :tinfoil:

Some pics of your deck & coils would be great too, @Hippie but I'll take whatever guidance I can get, thanks:tup:
 
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