Discontinued The Splinter by RBT

Status
Not open for further replies.

Hussan311

Well-Known Member
Have no idea what is going on with my mod box now though my batteries are not charging when plugged in they are actually draining they were at 52% about 30 min ago but when i just check one was at 46 and the other 48% not sure what is going on i cant imagine the splinter runied the batteries right? i have been using that mod with a taf sai for months with them batteries and no problem

Looks like my cord must have went bad tried a different charger and their charging fine now, i really need to buy a actual battery charger for the 18650's
 
Last edited:
Hussan311,
  • Like
Reactions: BigJr48

Summer

Long Island, NY
The new Splinters are going out with 19/19mm glass joints &, although RBT said this joint will be backward compatible with the old 19/22 stems, that remains to be seen since the 19/19 are just now being distributed. I assume that 19/22mm will fit in the 19/19 joint, just slightly shallower. Don't know if there will be any wobble or not. I have the old 19/22mm joint & stems so I can't attest to this 1st-hand.

I don't know why he went with joints 3mm shorter.

Now @ray_b has said that other 18mm stems in his arsenal are wobbly in the 19/22 joint.


:shrug:
 
Last edited:

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
Hey guys, since the beginning something felt wrong with this whole story. I mean, Ryan is not idiot. There already were a lot of compatibility issues when he chose to use US standard taper joints instead of ISO ones in his previous products. Why would he now switch to something even less compatible?

All joints have the same standard taper, the only difference is their length (i.e. how long along that taper slope the cone goes down)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_glass_joint

Are you sure he's not just talking about the male joints? Using shorter male joints would yield maximum compatibility (19mm would fit in 19, 22 and 26mm female joints)

If it's the inverse then it's a big fail. 19mm deep female joints would only accept 19mm males and be incompatible with 22mm (US) and 26mm (ISO) joints which are the most widespread.

Lastly, there is no mention of any 19/19 joint in the page linked, the short joints are supposedly 19/10... this adds to the confusion, where does that bastard size come from? :hmm:
 

Hussan311

Well-Known Member
i got two stems with my splinter but one of them the screens wont even fit into it and when i put it in the splinter their is a very very noticble wobble it slides right in and out doesnt catch at all but atleast the other stem is perfect so thats good
 
Hussan311,
  • Like
Reactions: BigJr48

Haze Mister

Verdant Bloomer
Manufacturer
Maybe there is a technical reason that I'm missing but it seems to me that choosing a non-standard fitting is for selling expensive adapters, as taught to the world by Apple...
 

ray_b

Well-Known Member
Maybe there is a technical reason that I'm missing...
I thought the change was to make the Splinter more compact, pure speculation on my part.

This statement is from an email from Ryan responding to my question about what stems will fit my recently purchased Splinter:

"the Splinters up until now have been 19/22 as we are just making the transition... so both the 19/22 and the new 19/19 will fit. The 19/19 is backwards compatible so a 19/19 works with the existing 19/22. The only issue is if you try to use a 19/22 (longer) in the upcoming Splinters that are now made for the 19/19."
 

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
The new Splinters are going out with 19/19mm glass joints &, although RBT said this joint will be backward compatible with the old 19/22 stems, that remains to be seen since the 19/19 are just now being distributed. I assume that 19/22mm will fit in the 19/19 joint, just slightly shallower.
Hey guys, since the beginning something felt wrong with this whole story. I mean, Ryan is not idiot. There already were a lot of compatibility issues when he chose to use US standard taper joints instead of ISO ones in his previous products. Why would he now switch to something even less compatible?
Are you sure he's not just talking about the male joints? Using shorter male joints would yield maximum compatibility (19mm would fit in 19, 22 and 26mm female joints)
I have wanted to keep quiet on this subject until I had a Splinter in my hand. No point in just speculating on this important issue with no data.
I SHOULD be able to put an end to some of this joint confusion but unfortunately I cannot. I CAN clarify that, like this pic from Ryan's IG, the "package" I received Friday from an order last weekend included the device, one short stem, 2 screens, a wood poker and a burlap bag. That appears to be the current standard Splinter package.
2qkkvib.jpg

Like @KeroZen I can't imagine a reason for Ryan to reduce the female joint size INSIDE the Splinter. There is no advantage unless he needed the room, and if that he could easily have lengthened the Splinter instead. And the only good reason I can think of to shorten the MALE joint would be to end any incompatibility issues with ISO joints (the most common out there) or proper US joints that aren't precisely 22mm long. Maybe I am missing some other reason to shorten them, but I AM missing it if there is one.
The Splinter I received, presumably recently built, has a 22mm female joint. Standard US female, not customized in any way I can see. However, the short stem I received is ALSO 22mm, not 19 as others have prepared me for. I have no way of knowing if the stem was just pulled from the wrong bin and mistakenly included or if this is how the package is meant to be assembled. While I can easily buy that the 22mm STEM is in error, I have a harder time believing that the 22mm FEMALE joint is a mistake for the reasons above.
And, as my friend Forrest would say, "That's all I have to say about that".

Added: OK, I will say one more thing. In the photo above, from Ryan's IG, the stem certainly LOOKS like a 22mm joint. If it WERE 19mm, it would appear more square with both width and length being the same size.
ng8raa.jpg
 
Last edited:

Hussan311

Well-Known Member
Am i doing something wrong? I just combused at 31.5 watts i usually do a 3-5 second preheat and then continue holding the button for another 7-8 seconds well inhaling usually around 13 seconds or so is my avg hit where i am holding the button down. Am i holding it to long? should i be holding it for 5 seconds letting go for a few then pressing again. Sorry if i sound stupid only had it 1 day and am nervous im going to break it if i end up doing that again lol. Thanks for the help again guys
 
Hussan311,
  • Like
Reactions: BigJr48

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
A little more info might help us help you. Which mod are you using and which firmware? My first thought would be how is your coil resistance set?
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
@Hussan311 : if you properly set TC mode you should be able to avoid combustion completely. I think you are preheating too long. Also you should let the trigger off before the end of the hit and ride the heat wave down, there's plenty of vapor available with the residual heater energy.
 
Last edited:

Hussan311

Well-Known Member
A little more info might help us help you. Which mod are you using and which firmware? My first thought would be how is your coil resistance set?
Using a joytech espion 200w coil is at .22 i am using red panda firmware not sure if .22 is right or not but thats what it said whn i put it on my box mod i have seen others say theirs was .24 or .25

@Hussan311 : if you properly set TC mode you should be able to avoid combustion completely. I think you are preheating too long. Also you should let the trigger off before the end of the heat and ride the heat wave down, there's plenty of vapor available with the residual heater energy.
Yeh i forgot to say after the 13 seconds of holding the button i stlll inhale for another 3-4 becasue i get vapor, I would love to set the tc just not sure what i should set it too can you give me any suggestions or maybe what you are using? thanks again guys i really appreciate it
 
Hussan311,
  • Like
Reactions: BigJr48

Smoke1ForMe

Well-Known Member
Have no idea what is going on with my mod box now though my batteries are not charging when plugged in they are actually draining they were at 52% about 30 min ago but when i just check one was at 46 and the other 48% not sure what is going on i cant imagine the splinter runied the batteries right? i have been using that mod with a taf sai for months with them batteries and no problem

Looks like my cord must have went bad tried a different charger and their charging fine now, i really need to buy a actual battery charger for the 18650's

Are you charging the batteries in the mod? I would pick up an external charger, everyone advises against charging in a mod.
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
Are you charging the batteries in the mod? I would pick up an external charger, everyone advises against charging in a mod.

Only for mods having multiple cells though. Single cell ones are perfectly fine. The evic Primo mini can fast charge up to 2A for instance and it's a nice feature compared to the sluggish 0.5A of most chargers.
 

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
Could someone who got their Splinter from the European shipment (Vapefiend customers I think) or Vapfiend for that matter measure their joint depth and the male joint on the stem? I would really appreciate putting this to bed.

Added: I just noticed this on their (Vapefiend) page:
2. The Splinter's mouthpiece fitting is NOT a standard 18.8mm male size. Using standard adapters puts undue pressure on the glass heater cover and can cause breakage. Only use Splinter-specific adapters and mouthpieces.
----------
However what they likely mean is that RBT does not use the ISO Standard size, which we already knew and has always been the case. RBT uses (or at least has used) the US Standard joint which is 19/22.
 
Last edited:

cloudsosmoke

Well-Known Member
Last edited:

WubbaLubbaDubDub

Well-Known Member
Yeah even at 50 watts it is underwhelming. Feels like I need just 10 more watts to get where I want but I was scared to use it at that wattage. Besides, I don't think I should be using 60 watts to get what others are claiming at 27-30 watts. In regards to the DNA mods and temp control..... I don't even want to touch that yet. Before venturing off into temp mode [which I'm familiar with] I want it to work as it was designed for first in wattage mode. Don't want to find a good temp only to find out I've been overworking the splinter because it was never right in wattage mode. I also failed to mention that I did try temp mode and it was super underwhelming at 400F
I never vape above that unless through water. I'm figuring that if I couldn't get vapor at 400F then something must be running cool. Failed to mention, I tried 3 different strains. Strawberry Turbo D, Grease Monkey and Royal Kush with all the same results. It also drains the f#*k out of my batteries. After 4 bowls, I have about 60% battery left.

Hi Mate,
Sounds like your having a rough time with it. Silly question, but have you tried new batteries? The only reason I ask is because you mentioned the battery drain issue in the quote above.
 

KingSol

Active Member
Hi Mate,
Sounds like your having a rough time with it. Silly question, but have you tried new batteries? The only reason I ask is because you mentioned the battery drain issue in the quote above.
Yeah, just got in 12 LG 3000 mah plus I have tons of batts. I’m quiet now because I’m having mildly better results. It almost seems like the more I use it, the better it gets which is weird because it seems like it almost needs to be broken in. I know that doesn’t make since but it seems like the heater is getting hotter each time I use it. Still more testing to do, will report back in a day or two.

Edit: I recall someone mentioning that the Milaana tubes cannot be used with the Splinter but I can’t seem to find the post now. Am I correct? Why not, is it because the Milaana tubes will touch the Splinters heater or something? Just asking because my father has a walnut Mi tube that would look amazing in the Splinter.
 
Last edited:
KingSol,

SavageCore

Well-Known Member
@cybrguy
The ground glass bit of mouthpiece is 22mm with my cheap tape measure

It still sticks out 1-2 mm when inserted in splinter

Vapefiend has 9min video where he mentions using right size water adapter
Don’t know how to put it here..but link to page
https://vapefiend.co.uk/collections/rastabuddahtao-vaporizers/products/splinter-vaporizer
(If you click watch video link under pic of splinter you get a Vimeo pop out player)

Use the media icon!

Direct link starting at 5:48

Anyway, that video doesn't help me understand any better either, heh... He says use the new shorter male stem to not break the inner female glass but for the majority of the video is using a milaana cooling mouthpiece which is full length...
 

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
Edit: I recall someone mentioning that the Milaana tubes cannot be used with the Splinter but I can’t seem to find the post now. Am I correct? Why not, is it because the Milaana tubes will touch the Splinters heater or something? Just asking because my father has a walnut Mi tube that would look amazing in the Splinter.
We are trying to figure exactly that out. My Splinter, that arrived Friday, works fine with the adapters I use with my Zion and my Milaana which are 19/22. There seems to still be some confusion about whether there is a different version that is 19mm deep instead of 22mm, but as mine just arrived I can't imagine why I wouldn't have gotten it (or, frankly, why it would exist).
This is the mp that came with my splinter next to a M2M I had custom made by @Oregonglassblower at 19/22 for my Zion
bg9poo.jpg

And here is that adapter loaded in my Splinter.
126g16u.jpg

Fits perfectly. No sticking out of the joint.

So, all I can say is my Splinter has the same 22mm deep female joint that my Milaana and Zion has.
 

analytika

Well-Known Member
video doesn't help me understand any better either, heh...

Still it's appreciated and I hope every reviewer jumps in with a fresh review.

Sick of people referring back to Bud's review in which he liked a no longer available product, the Zion, and just sniffed at the Milaana and the Splinter.

@RastaBuddhaTao could do a better job helping people understand how to use the Splinter. He demurs at temperature control, says he's a simple wattage guy. That's fine, but he should reach out for recommendations and publish the consensus.

I'm seeing the same thing over on the thread for the new Triton concentrate vaporizer by @THC SCIENTIFIC . We get only hints at possible settings for what are really five different devices.

To be fair both have said something, I just don't think they've said enough.

Obviously it's great to get the devices off the assembly line and into the hands of consumers. But I hope we see better resources advising how to use, particularly where e-cig mods -- high-powered and in some cases dangerous sources of concentrated energy -- are involved.
 
Last edited:

almost there

Well-Known Member
My splinter died this weekend, it was acting erratically for a few days and finally kicked the bucket. As of about a week ago the coils which was fine before started glowing at 28 watts while on wattage mode. Sometimes 28 watts would seem too cold and at other times it started scorching the material. The resting coil value was rising steadily since I received the unit, at first it was .37 and as the weeks progressed it climbed to .41 and finally it was at .55 when it died. Would have pointed my finger at the Therion as the culprit but my new Tesla Punk 85W confirmed the defect is in the splinter. I've gotten very attached to the device so hopefully I can get it serviced before summer is over.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom