Cannabis Hardware (formerly NewVape) FlowerPot Twax Vaporizer

Vaporware

Well-Known Member
NewVape 20mm Showerhead Set (9213) - $100
https://www.newvape.com/showerhead-combo-20mm-2

It is compatible with most 20mm heaters. You will need a stand for the heater, they can be made DIY on the cheap or purchased from NV.

@GoombaTroop What he said except:

You also need a bowl. You can buy one of NewVape’s titanium bowls (the PanHead and ShovelHead are the newest and the only difference between them is the way they look and a little bit of mass), or you can also go with some of the glass bowls posted here recently, or check your own or ones you can buy locally to see if they fit.

You can skip the coil cover from the ShowerHead set to save $20, but it won’t look as nice and the coil temp will drop more with each hit.
 

LabPong

Well-Known Member
@Baron23 and @psychonaut have recommended good options.

I always seem to reach for my seed of life CCG glass for the flowerpot, but I also sometimes use the FC 187.

This is the CCG glass I use:

https://www.dhgate.com/product/ccg-new-2017-glass-water-pipes-glass-bongs/407153389.html

I've never had a problem using the adjustabowls with these two, but I only use the glass bowl from stevenlmz79 these days as I find it performs as well as the metal bowls but with better taste.

This is the glass bowl I use:

https://www.dhgate.com/store/product/11cm-height-blue-honeycomb-percolator-glass/202166626.html


Really nice water unit there....id add a drop down to it as well.....

So far the stevenlmz79 bowls look like the best option if you need a glass bowl. But they need a 14mm one...soon hopefully.....?

I have gone from the taller stereo matrix type to the single matrix internal down stem cans like the one you use with the diff perc. Always wanted to try a perc like that type. I was actually always drawn to the external downstem one they have.....


Now I am super happy using a narrow 14mm stem shoved into the 19mm large diameter internal downstem. It works perfect to quiet the action down and allow for much more controlled lighter drawing pressure. It allows for a much quicker extraction as the air moving over the load is much more controlled and slower to allow it to melt/cook/extract more fully.

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Then add downstem and choice of bowl......I use the same 18 to 14mm adapter for a bowl with the flowerpot and elev8r. Works awesome...I don't want to use any other of my glass pieces now...
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biohacker

Well-Known Member
I just like the smoothness and taste better. Since I am a beginner with quartz and sic I will go back and run the sic after using the quartz for a few days and see if I feel any difference.

What temp differential are you experiencing between the two?
 
biohacker,
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Likes2vape

Well-Known Member
jpCFZzI.jpg


Is that small gap between the top and bottom pieces normal?

When I assemble the VRod without the coil, the gap is not there. It turns another 1/4 of a turn.

With a cool VRod, if you plug the air intake, are you still able to draw air? I'm still able to draw air even with the intake blocked.

I'm wondering if I'm just not making a good seal for some reason. I have 2 coils from NV, and they both fit like that.

I have a small gap but not quite that big. I did take the vrod head apart and just barley screwed in the bottom half and it was pretty air tight. I think if you’re getting an air leak it is probably coming from between the head unit and bowl. I find if I leave the head unit tilted and draw through the bong I can still draw if I push the head unit flush on the bowl and not tilted it seals almost air tight.

I am not sure. I have not been very scientific or kept track of those things. I have just been throwing the new thing on. I have just ran both the sic and quartz at 700f.

Any tips or insight because I am just throwing mud at the wall enjoyable though it may be. I would like some logic about using these dishes.
Sic will run hotter than quartz as it is a much better thermal conductor. If you are running them at the same temps quartz will taste better imo. The real advantage with a SiC dish is you can go lower in temps then you can with quartz, it holds a very even temp throughout the dish., and is infinitely easier to clean and keep clean vs quartz.



I have been using the vrod with the glass bowl from Stevenlmz and the taste is way better with flower with super even browning. Dabs I don’t really notice a taste difference. With the glass bowl it is just like using the showerhead IME with better taste. Do any other Vrod owners with a glass bowl notice this as well?
 

GoombaTroop

Well-Known Member
NewVape 20mm Showerhead Set (9213) - $100
https://www.newvape.com/showerhead-combo-20mm-2

It is compatible with most 20mm heaters. You will need a stand for the heater, they can be made DIY on the cheap or purchased from NV.

@GoombaTroop What he said except:

You also need a bowl. You can buy one of NewVape’s titanium bowls (the PanHead and ShovelHead are the newest and the only difference between them is the way they look and a little bit of mass), or you can also go with some of the glass bowls posted here recently, or check your own or ones you can buy locally to see if they fit.

You can skip the coil cover from the ShowerHead set to save $20, but it won’t look as nice and the coil temp will drop more with each hit.

Thanks guys! Looks like it might not be all that expensive after all.
 

Likes2vape

Well-Known Member
Thanks guys! Looks like it might not be all that expensive after all.
Here’s the bare minimum you need to get started

Enail with proper size coil
Showerhead kit linked above (as mentioned you don’t have to get the coil cover but it is nice)
Bowl
Carb cap (definitely recommended)
Some sort of stand (be it home made or bought)
Bong (if you don’t already have one)

If you keep it to just the bare minimum it is pretty affordable.
 

mixchu69

Well-Known Member
I bet there are great advantages of using lower temps on your enail controllers (a lot of talk on this forum) but I personally don't see the appeal. If I have to run my showerhead at 700 because my coil is a lil loose versus someone who runs it at 600 (with a snug coil), what is the difference if our showerhead is ultimately running at the same temp?

One reason some might point out is longevity of the coil running at higher temps, but I have never had a coil die on me (sometimes leave on 24/7 for days). Can you guys explain why it is important to you (not trying to be a smartass, but curious)?
 

Likes2vape

Well-Known Member
@Likes2vape (and anyone else using a glass bowl); I appreciate that the taste is better, but do you notice in difference in the actual vapour quality? That is, is it any smoother? Or no?
I notice the first hit isn’t quite as big and more like an EVO first hit/primer hit. After that it billows clouds. I am not a good one to judge harshness/smoothness of vapor but I would say yes it is smoother.

So when I put the sic back on drop the temp 25 degrees to 675F compared to the quartz at 700F. Is this enough differential between the two or should I go even lower with the sic?
I agree with @biohacker 50-75 degree dish temp difference is probably right.
 

biohacker

Well-Known Member
You got it...75 degrees lower. Wow, that's a lot...thank you very much...I had no idea.

625F it is.

That's the beauty of SiC, and I know you're dabbing rosin...so even more reason to go lower in temp. At 700, i'd be flash combusting rosin on my slim series dnail base/SiC halo! I rarely go over 600, but it ain't no Vrod. Enjoy your learning process.... I know you must be having a blast!
 

Baron23

Well-Known Member
My glass bowl in 14 mm arrived yesterday. I got it from the ebay source and it arrived just fine and looks very well made.

I did not have a chance to use it last night as I had company over and we used some vapes that are a bit easier to pass around to a half drunk crowd of stoner (that is, ones without 680 degree exposed heaters! LOL).

But I do intend to use it today/tonight.

I did notice that my SH heater seems to fit more loosely than on my OG handled SH bowl. But, as long as it draws well I'm sure I'll be happy with it.

Cheers
 

Likes2vape

Well-Known Member
I bet there are great advantages of using lower temps on your enail controllers (a lot of talk on this forum) but I personally don't see the appeal. If I have to run my showerhead at 700 because my coil is a lil loose versus someone who runs it at 600 (with a snug coil), what is the difference if our showerhead is ultimately running at the same temp?

One reason some might point out is longevity of the coil running at higher temps, but I have never had a coil die on me (sometimes leave on 24/7 for days). Can you guys explain why it is important to you (not trying to be a smartass, but curious)?

IMO the main advantage of the vrod vs showerhead is being able to dab from sic or quartz vs ti. As far as using flower in vrod vs showerhead I feel the showerhead is slightly better.

The main advantage of vrod vs wraparound is the ability to vape flower with no carb cap. I am also able to use lower temps when dabbing.

I think if you are happy with the showerhead for flower and that is mainly what you use stick with it. If you dab the vrod is worth the upgrade imo. If you have the wraparound the vrod is just better all around.
 

EmDeemo

ACCOUNT INACTIVE
That's the beauty of SiC, and I know you're dabbing rosin...so even more reason to go lower in temp. At 700, i'd be flash combusting rosin on my slim series dnail base/SiC halo! I rarely go over 600, but it ain't no Vrod. Enjoy your learning process.... I know you must be having a blast!

Interesting. I know I'm rosin dabbing on lowly Ti with shit lungs, but I've got a feeling even when my lungs go back to normal I'll be staying down here at 570f. Yeah, the milk is noticeably less but the effects are more than enough and the whole experience is so much more pleasurable.
 

Justpassedu

Well-Known Member
Got the new glass bowl in the other day that I had linked. They work great , everyone should be very happy . I went 640f , decided to not try a screen and rather see how the glass 1 could hold up. Medium to fine grind , no particles got through . Taste was very nice the 1st few hits and at the same temp with the ti bowl I think my material is staying a bit greener as well , maybe a 10 degree bump up in temp will equal things out . Also got nice even browning all around and the fitment was on point . Made a quick video for everyone :
 

Vaporware

Well-Known Member
Thanks guys! Looks like it might not be all that expensive after all.

Yeah, if you stick to the minimum you need it’s not all that expensive, but I think the extras are worth picking up at some point if you can’t right now. :)

One thing I’d add that I don’t think I mentioned is extra screens. I prefer the double weave titanium screens in the PanHead and ShovelHead bowls, but the others will work fine too, the standard ones are just not as rigid or durable and they may let some small bits of flower through. The double weaves last a long time for me (I haven’t had to get rid of one yet in like 6 months of use, just clean in the bowl with iso).

Here’s the bare minimum you need to get started

Enail with proper size coil
Showerhead kit linked above (as mentioned you don’t have to get the coil cover but it is nice)
Bowl
Carb cap (definitely recommended)
Some sort of stand (be it home made or bought)
Bong (if you don’t already have one)

If you keep it to just the bare minimum it is pretty affordable.

I like having the carb cap too but for flower only users, unless you really want the extra restriction, it’s definitely an optional part in my opinion.

Other than restriction, to me the main difference seems to be that vapor production starts faster, but upping the coil temp also has this effect for me.

I bet there are great advantages of using lower temps on your enail controllers (a lot of talk on this forum) but I personally don't see the appeal. If I have to run my showerhead at 700 because my coil is a lil loose versus someone who runs it at 600 (with a snug coil), what is the difference if our showerhead is ultimately running at the same temp?

One reason some might point out is longevity of the coil running at higher temps, but I have never had a coil die on me (sometimes leave on 24/7 for days). Can you guys explain why it is important to you (not trying to be a smartass, but curious)?

Running at a higher temp is using more power, generating more heat, and putting more heat into the air. The difference may not be huge, but if you run it 24/7 I think a more efficient use of the energy you’re putting into it is desirable.

It might not be enough reason for a flower user to buy a VRod and replace a ShowerHead, but maybe enough reason to buy a VRod over a ShowerHead as a new user.

For concentrate users though, it’s a little different. More efficient heat transfer should mean that you get the dish temps you want at a lower coil temp, and you still get the flower to a higher temp. This should work better for double deckers.

Anyone with a VRod want to add to that or tell me if I’m wrong about any of it?
 

ParanoidAndroid998

Well-Known Member
Got the new glass bowl in the other day that I had linked. They work great , everyone should be very happy . I went 640f , decided to not try a screen and rather see how the glass 1 could hold up. Medium to fine grind , no particles got through . Taste was very nice the 1st few hits and at the same temp with the ti bowl I think my material is staying a bit greener as well , maybe a 10 degree bump up in temp will equal things out . Also got nice even browning all around and the fitment was on point . Made a quick video for everyone :
Brilliant! I hate to ask but do you mind trying out the glass bowl with the SH? That's what I'm working with at the moment and would love to hear if it's working equally as well with it.
 

biohacker

Well-Known Member
Interesting. I know I'm rosin dabbing on lowly Ti with shit lungs, but I've got a feeling even when my lungs go back to normal I'll be staying down here at 570f. Yeah, the milk is noticeably less but the effects are more than enough and the whole experience is so much more pleasurable.

Even more reason to go SiC my friend, you could be dabbing in the 400's.... my girl doesn't stray from 450, but I usually don't drop below 550 unless it's something super tasty like a dank hash rosin. I was just going based on what i've seen posted here, just as a starting point for Steama. Jcat is also a new kid on the block and we've been conversing about temps, and I think he settled on 625 as a starting point. It's super cool seeing so many vaporists starting to use rosin, and on wicked dab surfaces like SiC!
 

EmDeemo

ACCOUNT INACTIVE
Even more reason to go SiC my friend, you could be dabbing in the 400's.... my girl doesn't stray from 450, but I usually don't drop below 550 unless it's something super tasty like a dank hash rosin. I was just going based on what i've seen posted here, just as a starting point for Steama. Jcat is also a new kid on the block and we've been conversing about temps, and I think he settled on 625 as a starting point. It's super cool seeing so many vaporists starting to use rosin, and on wicked dab surfaces like SiC!

I'll be back on the SiC soon enough :)

I'd gone mostly flower, like a lot of us did with the SH, and so passed my WA to a friend. I've reverted back to mostly rosin now tho.

VROD/SiC combo ordered last week :clap:
 

Dubmonkey

Well-Known Member
@invertedisdead dont got a lot of access to concentrates so going to make my own. Then I will be able to better test or give feedback between the two. From a easy to use right now the VROD with the SIC dish is the winner.

The ERoss set up requires more cleaning and q tips. Only used it in one session when I had some ros.

Like I said once I can get a fair amount of concentrates I will for sure do some,side by side testing.
 
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