Discontinued The Splinter by RBT
- Thread starter RastaBuddhaTao
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oddjobold
Vape swap shop
I brought them on ebay from China. Very cheap and they send them twice by accident. Got loads now.
@Stu please move this thread back to the unreleased section. The learning from the pre-order will now be used to redesign the Splinter parts to eliminate the issues at launch. A new production line is also being set-up while the redesigned parts are being procured.
In addition, a new retail partner has agreed to purchase units with the assumption that all issues are resolved. Therefore, Taking the time to make every preparation prior to Volume production is only prudent.
Both issues that have been identified have been root caused and solutions are developed. Once parts are assembled and tested in the coming weeks / months I will keep folks posted.
Thanks for being patient while we make the last little adjustments so we can launch with a quality, reliable product we are proud of!
In addition, a new retail partner has agreed to purchase units with the assumption that all issues are resolved. Therefore, Taking the time to make every preparation prior to Volume production is only prudent.
Both issues that have been identified have been root caused and solutions are developed. Once parts are assembled and tested in the coming weeks / months I will keep folks posted.
Thanks for being patient while we make the last little adjustments so we can launch with a quality, reliable product we are proud of!
Rasputin
Bobcat @ VLife. Le__Bobcat @ IG
You rock! Ordered these immediately after I saw your post, and I got them today. They fit like a glove!! ✌
Maybe this isn't the right place for box mod questions but it does pertain to how I am using my splinter.
Can anyone explain (in layman's terms) how initial ohms and TCR affect what is going on in the splinter? I understand that the higher the ohms are set, the hotter the air will be at a certain TC setting. How is TCR different? I understand that different materials have different resistances but I am trying to figure out how this plays into "fine tuning" the mod driving my splinter.
Can anyone explain (in layman's terms) how initial ohms and TCR affect what is going on in the splinter? I understand that the higher the ohms are set, the hotter the air will be at a certain TC setting. How is TCR different? I understand that different materials have different resistances but I am trying to figure out how this plays into "fine tuning" the mod driving my splinter.
KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
Changing the resistance is a hack, and is in my opinion not a very good idea.
There are two ways to implement TC: the naive one, using a single coefficient, and the more accurate using a curve.
Ideally, and this is rarely done although it's really important, you need to zero the mod internal resistance out. For this you use a special kind of shunt 510 connector made of pure copper, but alternatively any very large piece of copper connecting your 510 positive and negative should do.
When the 510 is shorted, the resistance value displayed on screen is equal to the mod internal resistance. In eScribe and ArticFox, you can enter this resistance in the advanced settings. This way the mod will be able to subtract it from the attachment resistance reading, leaving you obviously with just the resistance of the attachment.
This is important because the "mod part" of the resistance is basically constant. But to make TC work we need to measure resistance changes. When both resistance are compounded together, only a part of it (the atty part) will be variable and this screw things up. When the "mod part" is properly zeroed out, we're left only with the variable part.
Then, the naive way to do TC is to use a simple coefficient (usually advertised as TCR when it is customizable, but also often used under the hood to implement the wire presets like NI200, SS, Ti etc) That coefficient is just the slope of the linear temperature curve. Figure a graph, with temperature on the Y axis and resistance on the X axis and draw a line. The coefficient is the angle (slope) of that line.
The more accurate way to perform TC is to use a curve instead of a line, as this is closer to how the resistance of these metals change with temperature in the real world.
Now you should really disregard the displayed temperature, it doesn't really matter and will never match the temperature of your load. At best it will closely track the mean temperature at the heating element, but again it's not that simple, coils and meshes don't necessarily heat evenly, there are gradients and hot spots etc. But let's assume that it can match the coil temperature overall.
I think the error most people do in this thread and the few other convection attachment ones, is to try to have the displayed temperature match the load temperature. You can do that by tweaking the TCR coefficient and/or the measured temperature offset, but when you do that you only match for a single point. The slope of your curve will be completely wrong. This means that as soon as you change the temperature the match will be lost: you thought you increased by 5°C but you increased by 20°C for instance (extreme example but you get the idea) or inversely you have to increase by 50°C to get only a 10°C change...
Some combinations of TCR+offset value will work but only in a very narrow range. Or for instance you start at 220°C on display and the mod can only go to 250°C so you end up with only 30°C of adjustment range, and it's not good. It's best for instance to have your low temperature point fall in the middle of the mod adjustment range, say 150°C for instance, this way you have ample granularity to adjust up or down, even if the displayed temperature looks a bit meaningless.
On the iHeat for instance, when using the SS316L curve, my displayed temperature is between 140°C and 165°C (and it's not optimal, I'll need to tweak it, do as I say not as I do!!!
) But 140°C feels like a 195°C in my other vapes, and 165°C would be close to the max 220°C.
There are two ways to implement TC: the naive one, using a single coefficient, and the more accurate using a curve.
Ideally, and this is rarely done although it's really important, you need to zero the mod internal resistance out. For this you use a special kind of shunt 510 connector made of pure copper, but alternatively any very large piece of copper connecting your 510 positive and negative should do.
When the 510 is shorted, the resistance value displayed on screen is equal to the mod internal resistance. In eScribe and ArticFox, you can enter this resistance in the advanced settings. This way the mod will be able to subtract it from the attachment resistance reading, leaving you obviously with just the resistance of the attachment.
This is important because the "mod part" of the resistance is basically constant. But to make TC work we need to measure resistance changes. When both resistance are compounded together, only a part of it (the atty part) will be variable and this screw things up. When the "mod part" is properly zeroed out, we're left only with the variable part.
Then, the naive way to do TC is to use a simple coefficient (usually advertised as TCR when it is customizable, but also often used under the hood to implement the wire presets like NI200, SS, Ti etc) That coefficient is just the slope of the linear temperature curve. Figure a graph, with temperature on the Y axis and resistance on the X axis and draw a line. The coefficient is the angle (slope) of that line.
The more accurate way to perform TC is to use a curve instead of a line, as this is closer to how the resistance of these metals change with temperature in the real world.
Now you should really disregard the displayed temperature, it doesn't really matter and will never match the temperature of your load. At best it will closely track the mean temperature at the heating element, but again it's not that simple, coils and meshes don't necessarily heat evenly, there are gradients and hot spots etc. But let's assume that it can match the coil temperature overall.
I think the error most people do in this thread and the few other convection attachment ones, is to try to have the displayed temperature match the load temperature. You can do that by tweaking the TCR coefficient and/or the measured temperature offset, but when you do that you only match for a single point. The slope of your curve will be completely wrong. This means that as soon as you change the temperature the match will be lost: you thought you increased by 5°C but you increased by 20°C for instance (extreme example but you get the idea) or inversely you have to increase by 50°C to get only a 10°C change...
Some combinations of TCR+offset value will work but only in a very narrow range. Or for instance you start at 220°C on display and the mod can only go to 250°C so you end up with only 30°C of adjustment range, and it's not good. It's best for instance to have your low temperature point fall in the middle of the mod adjustment range, say 150°C for instance, this way you have ample granularity to adjust up or down, even if the displayed temperature looks a bit meaningless.
On the iHeat for instance, when using the SS316L curve, my displayed temperature is between 140°C and 165°C (and it's not optimal, I'll need to tweak it, do as I say not as I do!!!
) But 140°C feels like a 195°C in my other vapes, and 165°C would be close to the max 220°C.
Fat Freddy
FUCK CANCER TOO !
So to sum that all up @KeroZen , what I hear you saying, I think, is that it's been just plain stupid luck that none of us have blown our freakin' noses off yet!? I may be having second thoughts regarding my newly purchased box mod! And besides, I kinda like my face the way it's configured now, such that it is! 
.
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Thanks for the solid explaination of TC @KeroZen the Splinter heater resistance changes with your draw. As it heats up, the resistance increases. As it cools it drops. This, coupled with the resistance changes internally to the mod and at the convection will also vary. This total variance is a large percentage of the sub-ohm resistance. For this reason @RastaBuddhaTao recommends and only supports wattage mode.
The heater is designed such that at a constant voltage the heater "boost" as you draw as the cool Inlet air drops the resistance and the current thereby increases to keep up.
To date, most that play with TC mode return to the voltage / wattage mode in the end. However, @Other Side has had good luck in TC mode on a high quality mod.
I agree @Fat Freddy these batteries are dangerous and should be handled with care as instructed by FMM
The heater is designed such that at a constant voltage the heater "boost" as you draw as the cool Inlet air drops the resistance and the current thereby increases to keep up.
To date, most that play with TC mode return to the voltage / wattage mode in the end. However, @Other Side has had good luck in TC mode on a high quality mod.
I agree @Fat Freddy these batteries are dangerous and should be handled with care as instructed by FMM
Fat Freddy
FUCK CANCER TOO !
@RastaBuddhaTao
In what way, if any, might this new feature from Evolv integrate with the Splinter?
What's your assessment? The Evolv rep says it even works just fine with mesh coils!
Fast forward to about 9:30 to bypass intro drag.
TIA!
In what way, if any, might this new feature from Evolv integrate with the Splinter?
What's your assessment? The Evolv rep says it even works just fine with mesh coils!
Fast forward to about 9:30 to bypass intro drag.
TIA!
@RastaBuddhaTao only supports using wattage mode with the Splinter. The smart and brave at heart can venture into the realm of trying to hit a moving target with an algorithm 
StonerSloth
cui bono?
You are gonna need a beast of an enclosure you house a Splinter in a SBS but I am really looking forward to seeing your designs!
I'm assuming the 510 will be out floating like a Witcher, instead of housing the Splinter inside the enclosure?
Hey folks... I will be reviewing the first samples of the Splinter wood from the new supplier tonight live on IG at 7 PM EST
Rasputin
Bobcat @ VLife. Le__Bobcat @ IG
The fit-up of the sample parts was acceptable other than some concentricity issues (holes off center). The slight hour glass shape made need to be nixed in order to improve accuracy. Parts where made in Oak so the surface finish is admittedly poor. In the comming weeks the process will be dialed in and parts made of selected spieces will be run. Initially Sepele is planned to be to majority of the run with some Walnut and Exotics that are easy to accurately machine sprinkled in. @Other Side and @grovas suggested that @RastaBuddhaTao add mouthpieces to the list of projects that is planned for the woodworker in the future
https://instagram.com/p/BflYQrwhPUi/
https://instagram.com/p/BflYQrwhPUi/
Mulchmaker
Veni Vidi Vapi
I prefer the straight sides anyway, so win-win in my book!
grokit
well-worn member
I needed a nice surprise today, and I got one 
!
I think I'm in love (definitely smitten)
:
Thank you so much for the quick swap @RastaBuddhaTao
!
Now I gotta go to the weed store...
...so I can see how far this 26650-based beast can go on a charge
For science
Life is good
!I think I'm in love (definitely smitten)
:
Thank you so much for the quick swap @RastaBuddhaTao
!Now I gotta go to the weed store...
...so I can see how far this 26650-based beast can go on a charge
For science
Life is good
Hey @grokit thanks for the post! Working on moving and setting up the new digs as fast as possible to service other folks experiencing problems.
There have been two main problems which have been the wood detatching from the wood and the heater short. Both problems have validated design changes that will be used moving forward. Thanks to all who give feedback to keep improving the @RastaBuddhaTao products.
Rumor has it there is a big announcement being made this week. Special thanks to Brother @VegNVape for helping make it happen! RBT bro's for life
There have been two main problems which have been the wood detatching from the wood and the heater short. Both problems have validated design changes that will be used moving forward. Thanks to all who give feedback to keep improving the @RastaBuddhaTao products.
Rumor has it there is a big announcement being made this week. Special thanks to Brother @VegNVape for helping make it happen! RBT bro's for life
duff
Well worn
This "tutorial" may already exist but I couldn't find it.
I got 2 nice 18/14 adapters from OGB but didn't get them cut to fit RBT vapes.
Went to Home Depot and got a diamond cutting wheel and gave it a go.
Marked the height with the best fitting stem on my Splinter.
Took the diamond blade to the ground joint.
Take your time and go slowly.
High speeds on the Dremel will chip the glass.
Stick to speeds 1 or 2 for the cleanest results.
To clean up your edge, rub the glass on the side of the wheel (the outer rim of the wheel is textured) to sand it down.
After the cutting and sanding.
To flame polish I grabbed my plumber's torch and a pair of needle nose pliers to hold the adapter.
Polishing probably took about 5 minutes but I'm sure that I could have gone longer.
Overall it was very easy and OGB has some nice stuff.
I got 2 nice 18/14 adapters from OGB but didn't get them cut to fit RBT vapes.
Went to Home Depot and got a diamond cutting wheel and gave it a go.
Marked the height with the best fitting stem on my Splinter.
Took the diamond blade to the ground joint.
Take your time and go slowly.
High speeds on the Dremel will chip the glass.
Stick to speeds 1 or 2 for the cleanest results.
To clean up your edge, rub the glass on the side of the wheel (the outer rim of the wheel is textured) to sand it down.
After the cutting and sanding.
To flame polish I grabbed my plumber's torch and a pair of needle nose pliers to hold the adapter.
Polishing probably took about 5 minutes but I'm sure that I could have gone longer.
Overall it was very easy and OGB has some nice stuff.
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mucsusn
60 going on 20
Very nice @duff I have a lot of spare glass of various iterations (E-nano, UD, WS, RBT) and I hope to play around with cutting, grinding and flaming some mods. Got my Splinter back from RBT on Friday, I think mine was a heater short, as the connecter was never an issue.....in any case, I've used this and my VC's all weekend.......a wonderful combination 
Likely sometime in April. Ryan is moving and setting up operations.
Fat Freddy
FUCK CANCER TOO !
Wow! Really?!
250 units over the next 8-9 weeks? That's like 5-6 units per week day! That's quite the target!
Can QC be sufficiently achieved at that pace?
TIA
Hey there Fat Freddy. Maybe you missed the piece where I stated he was moving. If you look back again you will see it. So with that he will be taking some time to get his affairs in order and set up his production lines in his new spot. So no he will not be producing everyday like your scenario states.
As for QC. Well you see this is an original design just like the rest of RBT's offerings. He is not blatently ripping off ideas, technology, breaking agreements with others, sending trolls (best customers) out to do his dirty work, taking parts he didn't pay for nor sucking knowledge out of other people in the interest of serving himself.
Maybe you are not accustomed to new product launches but many times the first batch of products have bugs. Ryan has already identified a few issues that didn't come up in the beta testing. So yeah now he will be working to address those things and deliver the build quality that matches the vapor quality of his products.
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