OF

Well-Known Member
Have you ever tried?

A normal Alkaline has 2500 mAh. You just can't use it for long and have to throw it away after.

Have you tried? I have, and I found just what RB did. The current demand on MFLB is so far out of specifications for Alkalines, too much internal resistance to deliver the FIFTEEN AMPS needed. Only a few very high performance NIMH models are up to this. D cell alkalines are marginal at this level, the top models are up to it perhaps, but not likely to fit.

AA alkalines are good for one Amp, often less:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?276260-Maximum-current-draw-for-D-alkaline-s

There's more to battery stuff than just looking at capacity numbers.

I assume you really haven't tried this. Peeling alkalines doesn't really work since the body under the wrap is positive (unlike NIMH), the ring and center pin would be contacting the same (positive) point, the negative end would be 'hanging in space'. No joy. To test it I had to build a fixture, again generally a deal breaker. My quest to build a battery pack for field use ended and I built a 12 volt pack to use with the PA instead.

Stick with the models known to work. While some more capable AAs will work when peeled, the very best advice is to buy the factory units. MF really did their homework here, anything else will literally be 'sub standard'.

OF
 

AtomicPB

Well-Known Member
A couple of weeks ago, I was in the mood to try "normal" rechargeable batteries instead of the Magic Flight Glyphs. Mainly because of the price of the Glyphs in Europe and since there were no gold ones easily availlable at the time.

Those are the ones I ordered.

https://www.akkuteile.de/ni-mh-akku...0mah-schnellladefaehig-4-stueck-box/a-600119/

They work extremely well, though I have to say that my best remaining Glyph seems to be slightly better in performance ...

When I have to decide again at some point to renew the batteries, I am not yet sure which of both to get. The Fujitsus come with a case and are a bit less expensive, while the Glyphs are performing a tiny little bit better, which I like a lot as well ...

Tough call ... :hmm:
 

pakalolo

Toolbag v1.1 (candidate)
Staff member
A couple of weeks ago, I was in the mood to try "normal" rechargeable batteries instead of the Magic Flight Glyphs. Mainly because of the price of the Glyphs in Europe and since there were no gold ones easily availlable at the time.

Those are the ones I ordered.

https://www.akkuteile.de/ni-mh-akku...0mah-schnellladefaehig-4-stueck-box/a-600119/

They work extremely well, though I have to say that my best remaining Glyph seems to be slightly better in performance ...

When I have to decide again at some point to renew the batteries, I am not yet sure which of both to get. The Fujitsus come with a case and are a bit less expensive, while the Glyphs are performing a tiny little bit better, which I like a lot as well ...

Tough call ... :hmm:

There are two kinds of NiMH rechargeables: low self-discharge (LSD) and high self-discharge (HSD). LSD batteries come pre-charged, HSD batteries do not. LSD batteries retain their charge on the shelf for upwards of a year, while HSD batteries discharge in a few days. The discharge curve is different and this in turn affects MFLB performance. HSD batteries have the best discharge curve for the LB, but a poor shelf life so MagicFlight began selling their own batteries (the Glyphs) which have a longer shelf life but have a discharge curve the works well with the LB. Glyphs will outperform other batteries, but if cost or availability is a factor then a good brand of either HSD or LSD NiMH batteries with at least 2000 mAh capacity will work. Choose depending on your usage habits: HSD if you use daily, LSD if you're a weekender.
 

AtomicPB

Well-Known Member
@pakalolo

Thanks for the advice. I remember that I read something similiar on the Magic Flight support pages quite some time ago.

I chose the linked Fujitsus batteries, because it says that they still have 85% of their charge left after 1 year of storage (LSD?) and because they are usable with high power devices like camera flashes (that's what the marketing on the website says :)). I don't know much about batteries though and most of what I know I learned here on FC. They seemed to combine those LSD and HSD capabilities like the Glyphs.

Just had that Magic Flight battery advice in a dark corner of my head and decided for those Fujitsus, because they reminded me of that. I kinda expected buying those instead of the Glyphs to be a small gamble but was surprised how similiar they are to the Magic Flight batteries I have. I have the older silver Glyphs which might not be comparable to the new ones ... probably gonna try to get my hands on some gold Glyphs now to compare. :D

Edit: Wanted to add the link with the english translation in the upper post but the time limit exceeded ...

https://translate.googleusercontent...700201&usg=ALkJrhgiY9u5psgVr_eHPAk04dw4H8RQNA
 
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Dutch-Mic

Well-Known Member
I used the Monocle edition with the golden glyphs for the first time this week (i own also a maple MFLB). The taste seemed to last longer with the golden glyphs, what a nice experience! I live in Europe, but would consider to import the golden glyphs from the US because they seem to make a big difference in performance.

I really like my Launch Boxes. They're portable and stealthy, on-demand, ideal for microdosing and the taste is good, especially at the beginning of a session. With the right technique the taste is even at the end of a session fairly good. For me it's the perfect no-nonsense vaporizer :)
 

junny89

Well-Known Member
I used the Monocle edition with the golden glyphs for the first time this week (i own also a maple MFLB). The taste seemed to last longer with the golden glyphs, what a nice experience! I live in Europe, but would consider to import the golden glyphs from the US because they seem to make a big difference in performance.

I really like my Launch Boxes. They're portable and stealthy, on-demand, ideal for microdosing and the taste is good, especially at the beginning of a session. With the right technique the taste is even at the end of a session fairly good. For me it's the perfect no-nonsense vaporizer :)

I have the same monocle edition, just looks nicer I think!
I agree it is a epic all rounder but I use it more because it hardly let's off any smell! So around the house in stealth mode (without mouthpiece) is awesome!
 

junny89

Well-Known Member
Though I don't use it exclusively anymore, I always run new stains through my MFLB first. The flavor is unparalleled, and since the MFLB was my only vape when I started keeping an herb journal, it is the benchmarking tool I still use to judge flower.

i agree, the flavour is on point!
Only negative i have of this box, is the fact that you have to keep shaking the box to move the herb around so i gets fresh herb to vaporise. What happens with me is that the herb sticks and shaking does nothing. i have to use a tool to mix the herbs up.
This is what i find annoying, just wish MF out a little tool in the box as its hard finding something the gently mix the herbs up with when you are hitting the MFLB!

Everyone have the same issue or just me?
If so what do you guys do to mix the herbs?
 

Mulchmaker

Veni Vidi Vapi
i agree, the flavour is on point!
Only negative i have of this box, is the fact that you have to keep shaking the box to move the herb around so i gets fresh herb to vaporise. What happens with me is that the herb sticks and shaking does nothing. i have to use a tool to mix the herbs up.
This is what i find annoying, just wish MF out a little tool in the box as its hard finding something the gently mix the herbs up with when you are hitting the MFLB!

Everyone have the same issue or just me?
If so what do you guys do to mix the herbs?

I usually flip it over and tap the cover a couple times on my wrist to "break loose" any clumps sticking to the screen. If that doesn't work, I use the cleaning brush to stir it up, since I know the bristles won't damage the screen.
 

Mulchmaker

Veni Vidi Vapi
I do that also as material always stick to screen but its j ust another item i need to carry around

Ah, good point. I was thinking of when I'm using it at home. When I'm on the go, I just use my pinkie, being careful not to damage the screen. I also find that I get fewer clumps if I only fill the trench halfway, and/or if I use herb that I've let dry out a bit before grinding.
 

AtomicPB

Well-Known Member
@junny89

This normally happens to me the first one or two draws. I use my fingers to losen the herb between those draws. My guess is, that it is the humidity, after those initial draws flipping and shaking the box is normally enough and nothing sticks anymore.

Some people here let the herb dry on top of a lamp, before putting it into the MFLB. Maybe that helps you as well.

In very rare cases when I almost combust, a little very dark brown herb sticks to the central bottom of the screen. If that happens I also use the little brush to get it off.

Edit: Clarified use-case in the first paragraph.
 
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OF

Well-Known Member
Some people here let the herb dry on top of a lamp, before putting it into the MFLB. Maybe that helps you as well.

That, being well cured ('dry') going in is the key here I think. Not only to stuff sticking but to the fouling that collects under the screen where the water vapor condenses again. "Keep it fine ground and well cured" is a rule guys really should explore.

Try grinding even finer (grind again if nothing else) after drying it out after the initial grind? I put 'dank' herb on top of my router (where it's warmer) to dry out.

Since the MF guys clued us in (many years back, early on in this thread) that fouling was almost exclusively the result of too much water in the herb going in, fouling and sticking have been memories.

Keep your batteries charged, give the vapor time to form before sipping it away, keep it fine and dry going in and shake, shake, shake between hits and you will be rewarded.

OF
 

junny89

Well-Known Member
@junny89

This normally happens to me the first one or two draws. My guess is, that it is the humidity, after those initial draws flipping and shaking the box is normally enough and nothing sticks anymore.

Some people here let the herb dry on top of a lamp, before putting it into the MFLB. Maybe that helps you as well.

In very rare cases when I almost combust, a little very dark brown herb sticks to the central bottom of the screen. If that happens I also use the little brush to get it off.

Yes It exactly happens on the first or second draw bizarrely. For me shaking and flipping doesn't do much as it's so stuck.

That, being well cured ('dry') going in is the key here I think. Not only to stuff sticking but to the fouling that collects under the screen where the water vapor condenses again. "Keep it fine ground and well cured" is a rule guys really should explore.

Try grinding even finer (grind again if nothing else) after drying it out after the initial grind? I put 'dank' herb on top of my router (where it's warmer) to dry out.

Since the MF guys clued us in (many years back, early on in this thread) that fouling was almost exclusively the result of too much water in the herb going in, fouling and sticking have been memories.

Keep your batteries charged, give the vapor time to form before sipping it away, keep it fine and dry going in and shake, shake, shake between hits and you will be rewarded.

OF


My material is always ground in a normal fluffy grinder then swapped in to the magic flight grinder. I have no other grinder that creates such a fine grind.

All my material is dry and not slightly wet at all. I just put it in a glass jar and leave it at that. So that's why I'm confused. It's not wet at all.
Always take slow and small sipps and give it enough time for vapor to form.
I do pack the trench to level height of the chamber
 

OF

Well-Known Member
All my material is dry and not slightly wet at all. I just put it in a glass jar and leave it at that. So that's why I'm confused. It's not wet at all.

I do pack the trench to level height of the chamber

You can't tell how well cured it is by saying it's not damp. Water makes up between 20 and 35% of the weight in 'store bought herb' IIRC. You can see this moisture collect on the inner surface of the cover sometimes? Ever see that? Unless you make a specific effort to dry (cure) it out of course. But I bet the lid is screwed down tight on those jars? Try leaving a bit in a warm place with no lid for a while.

It really does make a difference. Honest. If you read back in this thread you'll see we've been through this several times. You might try searching on 'drying' or 'curing'? Several times Members went on to elaborate drying rituals chasing desirable results. However you remove the water content before putting it in the box is fine I guess, but once it's inside it has to evaporate off (taking all the precious power) before we can get any vapor, right? One boils at 212F the other above 380F? Not a good use of what little power we have on tap, and it does gunk stuff up inside. Since being clued in I have not had to clean a MFLB, something I found no fun at all.

Not sure what you mean by the last part, but the rule is to keep the load loose (we don't want it packed, sucking what little heat there is away by conduction into the load) and not over the top of the rails (no heating takes place other than the trench itself). You want it fine, dry and free flowing and only covering the parts that get hot.

OF
 
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