Divine Tribe atty's

OF

Well-Known Member
I just got mine, and am nightly impressed. This one has to look of a clear winner. Marc is 'hitting on all four' as they say.

Unfortunately, I'm cursed with the flu (and living on eatables) so can't risk trying it, strong as that urge is. For now all I can do is look and wait for recovery. So I dug this video of it up:

First rate construction, complete with serial number engraved on the bottom.

I've got two thoughts, if that's Marc he should consider backing off a bit? Then again, who can blame him for 'going for it'? Secondly, it's really easy to hate a guy with a garden like that to enjoy the sun in! Hey, it's winter, he's in shorts........

It's worth noting that this one is slow to get going (a lot of glass to heat up before you can heat the goods, but once there it's 'Katy bar the door'! Worth the wait. It includes a spacer/heatsink I don't think is needed if your Mod has vent lines in the top. If it's smooth, like some of the new ones are, it can't get air without the spacer. There's also a thick rubber ring I assume is optional? Cleaning it after each use seems easy and proper.

From what I can see this one's a winner. If you're even moderately interested, I'd get it and see?

of course i ordered a QQ, but i suspect i'll end up continuing to use a v2.5 (shallow) on a Pico as my daily driver.

Me as well. My favorite combo here, not at all likely to get replaced anytime soon.

i wondering about this. wonder how hard it would be to heat the walls as evenly and quickly as the bottom. get some wire wrapped around it? or maybe make a ceramic cup with leads soldered on like the donuts... so the whole cup heats... then put a quartz cup inside the ceramic cup...?

I don't think the goods are really defying gravity when they 'climb the walls'. Rather I think the vapor is condensing out when it cools a bit? If you heated the walls the condensate would simply condense above that?

Might be fun to test out, but I'm not sure how?

BTW, super fast shipping again. arrived yesterday. thats like a day and a half from when i PayPal'd the payment.


edit to add: Yes, the QQ definitely comes with a heat sink and a silicone sleeve the same size.

The man is fast for sure. Even with the Post Offices never ending effort to slow things down it was still under a week, weekend and holiday included. IMO we're blessed to have such characters out there cooking up such cool stuff to offer us. Even more so when you consider the difficult if not impossible to fault Customer Service.

A guy feels good supporting such efforts.

Now, if only my throat would simmer down........

Regards to all.

OF
 

2clicker

Observer
I just got mine, and am nightly impressed. This one has to look of a clear winner. Marc is 'hitting on all four' as they say.

Unfortunately, I'm cursed with the flu (and living on eatables) so can't risk trying it, strong as that urge is. For now all I can do is look and wait for recovery. So I dug this video of it up:

First rate construction, complete with serial number engraved on the bottom.

I've got two thoughts, if that's Marc he should consider backing off a bit? Then again, who can blame him for 'going for it'? Secondly, it's really easy to hate a guy with a garden like that to enjoy the sun in! Hey, it's winter, he's in shorts........

It's worth noting that this one is slow to get going (a lot of glass to heat up before you can heat the goods, but once there it's 'Katy bar the door'! Worth the wait. It includes a spacer/heatsink I don't think is needed if your Mod has vent lines in the top. If it's smooth, like some of the new ones are, it can't get air without the spacer. There's also a thick rubber ring I assume is optional? Cleaning it after each use seems easy and proper.

From what I can see this one's a winner. If you're even moderately interested, I'd get it and see?



Me as well. My favorite combo here, not at all likely to get replaced anytime soon.



I don't think the goods are really defying gravity when they 'climb the walls'. Rather I think the vapor is condensing out when it cools a bit? If you heated the walls the condensate would simply condense above that?

Might be fun to test out, but I'm not sure how?



The man is fast for sure. Even with the Post Offices never ending effort to slow things down it was still under a week, weekend and holiday included. IMO we're blessed to have such characters out there cooking up such cool stuff to offer us. Even more so when you consider the difficult if not impossible to fault Customer Service.

A guy feels good supporting such efforts.

Now, if only my throat would simmer down........

Regards to all.

OF

was looking forward your thoughts on this one. can you advise how large your “loads” are for this atty? are you getting one hit from it or mutiple per each “load”? and if multiple are the second and third pulls as flavorful as the first?

finally do you think the quartz tastes better than the ceramic donuts? i guess what im asking is... is the wait worth it over a donut?

looking forward to trying this myself.

edit: i just realized you said you hadnt tried it yet. heh my bad.
 

Bad Ocelot

Well-Known Member
Got my QQ in the mail today woot woot! Just in time to test out a fresh gram of terpy smelling blue dream to boot :cool: The weather has got my city pretty much shut down so no excuse not to get a bunch of "testing" done :rockon: For science of course.

Got the full kit with the extra glass because I don't have the best record with these glass caps, ha. Looks like it came with a rubber or silicon vape band as well to protect the cap from slight dings, mod tipping over, etc. Good call.

Hadn't messed with AF since july so had to update my NFE tools as well as a smattering of mods, ha. Is everyone still using P=900 & I=20 in PI control? I'm still not entirely sure what those variables control tbh...

Think I'm gonna start with TCR=475 & 42w, temp ~400F. What kinda settings have you all found to work well?
 

detmer

Member
I've had mine for a few days, but the electrical contacts are not being made, and I can't for the life of me get the screws anywhere near down to the wires. I already stripped the first pair of screws trying. I'm trying to find something to wedge the opening apart so I can get the screws down. If anyone has advice, I'd greatly appreciate it.

Edit 1: I am a fool. Apparently the screws don't need to be down all the way, I just needed to extend the bottom pin some more. I was thrown off because tightening the screws seemed to work at first.

Edit 2: Ack! I don't know. Every time I think I'm about to use it I get no atomizer found or atomizer low. I'll keep fiddling.

Edit 3: It works beautifully. I love loading into the clear bowl with no donut hole to dodge. And then easily seeing how it changes. It's a battery monster, and gets super hot, be careful, but works with a fully charged Wismec Presa 75w (single 18650). The heat cements it as an at-home device for me. I'd love to hear what other compact mods folks like with it. I haven't tried the preheat setting with it yet, just official recommendations for now. All in all: it's amazing, and clunky. The inclusion of q-tips is super appreciated.
 
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OF

Well-Known Member
Edit 1: I am a fool.

Perfect! You're in the right place......yer gonna fit right in! Welcome to the Forum, lots of fun, good folks and good advice. Settle in and enjoy. Always room for more fools. Nice to have another around to fill in.

Lots of good advice on Mods around, although the power is higher here than on other DT products? I've yet to fire mine up, but expect to start with the Pico or maybe the Primo Mini both of which are doing very well with other TC carts. The Evic Mini also has some potential?

Anyway, the important part is to enjoy your new toy.

Welcome aboard. Good times ahead.

OF
 

PandaLee

Well-Known Member
Seems to be doing a lot better over here. Just came from reddit land and many more issues over there. I posted a video of a session I took earlier today (
).

Everything running well on my end. I'm double happy because I bought a new VooPoo drag mod to go with it and I love that too!

I feel the whole quartz cup gets hot pretty well, even the walls. I had some gooey stuff the other day and I had to scrape it in near the top of the wall...and it melted it's way down to the bottom no problem.

I'm finding the best use is to load for one long, slow but large hit...and then two or so decent burn-off hits. Like in my video...but I got distracted a bit by my filming and went a little too hot/too long at first. But it tore me up!
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Hi Matt,

In your video you are using 24g wire, will 22g fit into the contact slots?

I think that's just a prop (literally......). The heaters in this guy are 'film deposited on ceramic' like the other DT products are. The leads you see are just that, leads that are then brazed to the inside mouth of each tube end to contact the heater element. Like a doughnut or the bowl in the Gen2 Herb Cart.

They will come out of little envelopes already attached I bet, surely not off a roll.

OF
 

divinetribe

We are trying our hardest to become Medical Grade
Manufacturer
UPDATE UPDATE
TO ALL LOYAL CUSTOMERS:
on this first production of quartz quest, there were problems I did not catch, I still believe in the piece and it works great but it takes a little maintenance on this batch, unfortunately.
1. bad screws that do not allow you to tighten wires down firm enough without some extra work. just better quality overall screws and possible driver are needed.
2. insulator that keeps positive post from touching sides (behind the orings) you have to be careful and make sure base positive insulator is seated firmly into base so that it keeps distance
3. quality control on quartz cups (too many rough nicks and sharp edges)

if anyone buys or has bought a quest from this first production batch, I will send out a set of better screws possible driver and base if needed, insulator and softer quartz cup. my goal is to make a reliable piece. at the present time, i am making a troubleshooting video that can fix 95% of the problems from the first batch. just email matt@ineedhemp and tell me you're having problems with the first batch and I will put you on the list for a parts update when the second batch comes in.


the ohms need to be in the .2s to stay in temp control or you need to reseat the wires please see my youtube channel on how to do easily do this. I will post an advanced troubleshooting video for quartz quest tonight.
 
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Danksta

Well-Known Member
Gotta respect a guy like Matt who is busy pushing innovation constantly and able to get my order shipped less than an hour after payment AND get it into the postal system the same day. Props Matt! I'll be up and running Saturday. Very excited :D

I hope you get some rest Matt :zzz:
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Gotta respect a guy like Matt who is busy pushing innovation constantly and able to get my order shipped less than an hour after payment AND get it into the postal system the same day. Props Matt! I'll be up and running Saturday. Very excited :D

I hope you get some rest Matt :zzz:

I'm not so sure we should worry about the man, there's a rumor it's really a team of Matt look alikes in rotation...... That doesn't seem likely, but I too am hard pressed to see how he can do so much (or is it the others are doing so little in comparison?

However it happens he's doing great by us for sure. While the world can use more like him for sure, IMO he's earned his place, our respect and support. He definitely deserves the fruits of his labors, modest as they might be. For sure burnout is to be avoided at all costs.

Too bad there are no Academy Awards for Vapes (there should probably be.......), our man is a sure winner.

Still, ya gotta wonder 'any more like you at home?'.

OF
 

2clicker

Observer
I'm finding the best use is to load for one long, slow but large hit...and then two or so decent burn-off hits. Like in my video...but I got distracted a bit by my filming and went a little too hot/too long at first. But it tore me up!

now this is some feedback ive been waiting to hear. thank you.

UPDATE UPDATE
TO ALL LOYAL CUSTOMERS:
on this first production of quartz quest, there were problems I did not catch, I still believe in the piece and it works great but it takes a little maintenance on this batch, unfortunately.
1. bad screws that do not allow you to tighten wires down firm enough without some extra work. just better quality overall screws and possible driver are needed.
2. insulator that keeps positive post from touching sides (behind the orings) you have to be careful and make sure base positive insulator is seated firmly into base so that it keeps distance
3. quality control on quartz cups (too many rough nicks and sharp edges)

if anyone buys or has bought a quest from this first production batch, I will send out a set of better screws possible driver and base if needed, insulator and softer quartz cup. my goal is to make a reliable piece. at the present time, i am making a troubleshooting video that can fix 95% of the problems from the first batch. just email matt@ineedhemp and tell me you're having problems with the first batch and I will put you on the list for a parts update when the second batch comes in.


the ohms need to be in the .2s to stay in temp control or you need to reseat the wires please see my youtube channel on how to do easily do this. I will post an advanced troubleshooting video for quartz quest tonight.

good stuff. love the transparency here. well done sir. i will be an official customer as soon as i can get the wife off my vape budget spending back.


Still, ya gotta wonder 'any more like you at home?

:science:
 

OF

Well-Known Member
So, sitting here looking at the Quest, I decided that just because slow recovery has left my throat not up to vapor isn't a reason to not play with it? Right?

First thing, I can see why PL posted:

Seems to be doing a lot better over here. Just came from reddit land and many more issues over there.

It took some fiddling to get it to work, and more to get it to work consistently. We had the 'unfair advantage' with very experienced and able vape guys like VD to blaze the trail. Knowing it was possible to work, and work well, I kept at it. I can see how guys on 'lesser forums' might spin their wheels a bit, then get on the web and decide it's a fault with the unit not them or their ability to program the mod necessary?

I had a host of problems. 'No Atomizer', 'Shorted Atomizer', and odd (too high?) readings (which to me means marginal/bad contact somewhere. And jumping back to Watts (power) mode from TCR (using Ni and 310F) randomly mixed in. This last, 'jumping back' is an old issue with earlier carts and mod combos? Although we never did tie it down real tight (?), I think it's a symptom of the contact issues. So I took it apart, brand new. Even though I did get it to temperature one time.....before it crashed again.

That was an adventure with a happy ending. And some insights. Nothing like looking at the bits sometimes. First off the bowl (Quartz bit) is floating, retained by the heater leads. I had better luck not following Matts procedure step by step but rather removing the screws and 'walking' the heater leads up the slots in the post to free the bowl and heaters without removing the bottom screw first. This keeps the atty in one piece with a big base for you to hang onto as you tease the leads free. Then I removed the screw and saddle plate under the oven. The oven is most cool. The bottom 3/16 inch or so is a solid plate that has the holes for the heaters through it and a short piece of thin wall tube fused on top to make the bowl.

This entire base is heated and eventually gets hot enough to work. This means it's going to keep working of course.....for a long time compared to what we're used to. It's fun to watch from above as you can see the heaters heat up and glow, then pulse as the temperature limit cuts in and out holding an apparent 310F (which we know is really much higher but matches the TCR 'M' value being used).

Anyway the shorts I think were coming from the saddle or 'hot' post not being well centered and snug as Matt suggests above. Careful reassembly got rid of that problem with only modest fiddling (watch out for the saddle rotating as the screw is tightened). It's snug now, I expect it to hold. I unscrewed the atty a few times, always comes up fine now.

There were, I think, a lot of factors involved, leading to the random different failures. A troubleshooting 'can of worms' that could easily frustrate some/many. A methodical approach, backed by the confidence the system can work is called for. One failure at a time.......

In general I think you can classify troubleshooting into one of three classes. First is Prototype/R&D. What Matt and the Beta Testers had to deal with. A brand new design, untested, often hand made. The design could well have inherent problems that will keep it from ever working right and the 'one off' you have can also be flawed. This calls for one Troubleshooting Philosophy.

Then we have Production Test (were we are). This is a proven, solid design mass produced. There may be some part faults (design changes needed perhaps), but this one has to work right if assembled right with good parts. Just like all the rest of the units in the production run. You're basically looking for assembly errors and parts (quality) problems. A different approach called for than above.

Lastly we have Customer Support, a repair of a unit that used to work OK. Very different situation. This one likely has an honest part failure and 'needs' to be broken down to root cause for statistical controls. Field failure analysis is of supreme importance sometimes. Critically. Although chronic production/test problems can run up costs, sending out a congenital flaw or 'weak spot' can easily be fatal. Field returns had killed many a good company, giving one great confidence in Matt as he seems to be right on top of this.

I think Matt's advice to reserve QQ for experts and have newer users 'cut their teeth' on V3 is very very sound......and sure to be ignored by most net.guys.

We should do just fine, for the above reasons. Although it might not be 'plug and play' IMO it's surely worth the effort......even if I haven't actually vaped anything with it.

BTW, getting it 'ready to load' with this lame throat isn't the smartest thing I've done lately....... I can hear it calling me from the next room......from back inside the box.

If you like V3, and can use it well, you really should try this one out boys and girls, Matt's done it again it seems. Go figure.

Regards to all.

OF
 

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
So, sitting here looking at the Quest, I decided that just because slow recovery has left my throat not up to vapor isn't a reason to not play with it? Right?

First thing, I can see why PL posted:



It took some fiddling to get it to work, and more to get it to work consistently. We had the 'unfair advantage' with very experienced and able vape guys like VD to blaze the trail. Knowing it was possible to work, and work well, I kept at it. I can see how guys on 'lesser forums' might spin their wheels a bit, then get on the web and decide it's a fault with the unit not them or their ability to program the mod necessary?

I had a host of problems. 'No Atomizer', 'Shorted Atomizer', and odd (too high?) readings (which to me means marginal/bad contact somewhere. And jumping back to Watts (power) mode from TCR (using Ni and 310F) randomly mixed in. This last, 'jumping back' is an old issue with earlier carts and mod combos? Although we never did tie it down real tight (?), I think it's a symptom of the contact issues. So I took it apart, brand new. Even though I did get it to temperature one time.....before it crashed again.

That was an adventure with a happy ending. And some insights. Nothing like looking at the bits sometimes. First off the bowl (Quartz bit) is floating, retained by the heater leads. I had better luck not following Matts procedure step by step but rather removing the screws and 'walking' the heater leads up the slots in the post to free the bowl and heaters without removing the bottom screw first. This keeps the atty in one piece with a big base for you to hang onto as you tease the leads free. Then I removed the screw and saddle plate under the oven. The oven is most cool. The bottom 3/16 inch or so is a solid plate that has the holes for the heaters through it and a short piece of thin wall tube fused on top to make the bowl.

This entire base is heated and eventually gets hot enough to work. This means it's going to keep working of course.....for a long time compared to what we're used to. It's fun to watch from above as you can see the heaters heat up and glow, then pulse as the temperature limit cuts in and out holding an apparent 310F (which we know is really much higher but matches the TCR 'M' value being used).

Anyway the shorts I think were coming from the saddle or 'hot' post not being well centered and snug as Matt suggests above. Careful reassembly got rid of that problem with only modest fiddling (watch out for the saddle rotating as the screw is tightened). It's snug now, I expect it to hold. I unscrewed the atty a few times, always comes up fine now.

There were, I think, a lot of factors involved, leading to the random different failures. A troubleshooting 'can of worms' that could easily frustrate some/many. A methodical approach, backed by the confidence the system can work is called for. One failure at a time.......

In general I think you can classify troubleshooting into one of three classes. First is Prototype/R&D. What Matt and the Beta Testers had to deal with. A brand new design, untested, often hand made. The design could well have inherent problems that will keep it from ever working right and the 'one off' you have can also be flawed. This calls for one Troubleshooting Philosophy.

Then we have Production Test (were we are). This is a proven, solid design mass produced. There may be some part faults (design changes needed perhaps), but this one has to work right if assembled right with good parts. Just like all the rest of the units in the production run. You're basically looking for assembly errors and parts (quality) problems. A different approach called for than above.

Lastly we have Customer Support, a repair of a unit that used to work OK. Very different situation. This one likely has an honest part failure and 'needs' to be broken down to root cause for statistical controls. Field failure analysis is of supreme importance sometimes. Critically. Although chronic production/test problems can run up costs, sending out a congenital flaw or 'weak spot' can easily be fatal. Field returns had killed many a good company, giving one great confidence in Matt as he seems to be right on top of this.

I think Matt's advice to reserve QQ for experts and have newer users 'cut their teeth' on V3 is very very sound......and sure to be ignored by most net.guys.

We should do just fine, for the above reasons. Although it might not be 'plug and play' IMO it's surely worth the effort......even if I haven't actually vaped anything with it.

BTW, getting it 'ready to load' with this lame throat isn't the smartest thing I've done lately....... I can hear it calling me from the next room......from back inside the box.

If you like V3, and can use it well, you really should try this one out boys and girls, Matt's done it again it seems. Go figure.

Regards to all.

OF
I don't want to read stuff?
You know more than anyone!
A ATTY for one of my MODS?
I will try any thing for the sake of knowing?

I have a few gram's of ROSIN that I use in a TANK ATOMIZER?

If you have something better I want to know?

Do U have a link 4 this device?
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Do U have a link 4 this device?

http://ineedhemp.com/product/quartz...past-customer-and-social-media-discount-link/

is what I used. In typical (for Matt) I had it in a few days.

You need a serious mod, I'd say 60W at a minimum. I'm using a Pico set at 55W, Ni, 310F.

FWIW those are 'Matt's numbers' except the power, he calls for "40 to 70 Watts" in the instructions with the unit, but 55W on the link above. I found it takes 55 Watts to 'make temperature' in a reasonable time, I don't think 40 would be useful.

OF
 

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
http://ineedhemp.com/product/quartz...past-customer-and-social-media-discount-link/

is what I used. In typical (for Matt) I had it in a few days.

You need a serious mod, I'd say 60W at a minimum. I'm using a Pico set at 55W, Ni, 310F.

FWIW those are 'Matt's numbers' except the power, he calls for "40 to 70 Watts" in the instructions with the unit, but 55W on the link above. I found it takes 55 Watts to 'make temperature' in a reasonable time, I don't think 40 would be useful.

OF
I have a lot of MODS!
MY 200W MOD I keep next to me when I sleep.
My PICO 80 form ELEAF is smaller however work's as well.
I mostly use a TANK like GOON or KENDY 24 to 26 and I have a 30WISMEC ATOMIZER that overhang's.
Next purchase is a MOD that is wide in DIAMETER.

I tried a 22 that burned up in 2 day's with SHATTER.
PLUS why don't they cover the coil's as a separator from the CONCENTRATE?

I want to learn more?
 

aka DaBigKahuna

Well-Known Member
OF, hey there NI is in Temp Control mode in Artic Fox = [TFR] Ni correct?

Did you change the P and I value in Temp Control or leave it at 1850 / 300

I was enjoying the QQ until I started getting the no atomizer found, tinkering for me = breaking one of the heater elements. I ordered another QQ as I have to have "one on deck" and hope to get some replacement elements in the same package to test this new atty out more.

http://ineedhemp.com/product/quartz...past-customer-and-social-media-discount-link/

is what I used. In typical (for Matt) I had it in a few days.

You need a serious mod, I'd say 60W at a minimum. I'm using a Pico set at 55W, Ni, 310F.

FWIW those are 'Matt's numbers' except the power, he calls for "40 to 70 Watts" in the instructions with the unit, but 55W on the link above. I found it takes 55 Watts to 'make temperature' in a reasonable time, I don't think 40 would be useful.

OF
the coils/heaters are in holes in the bottom of the cup. they are not exposed to the inside of the cup at all. oil will never touch them.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
OF, hey there NI is in Temp Control mode in Artic Fox = [TFR] Ni correct?

Did you change the P and I value in Temp Control or leave it at 1850 / 300

Beats me. I'm not using AF, this is a stock Pico. I'd be careful though, the temperature (310F) specified is clearly not real. Matt is counting on the TCR value in the STOCK PROGRAM to deliver the needed temperature. Change software and you could easily change that?

You're missing the point with P and I values, they are basically useless here since there's a many seconds time constant between heater and concentrate. In a loop this slow nothing fancy is called for and could easily make it oscillate out of control. I'd suggest staying way clear.

Your call, of course.

OF
 

aka DaBigKahuna

Well-Known Member
Got it OF, thank you for the feedback.

Beats me. I'm not using AF, this is a stock Pico. I'd be careful though, the temperature (310F) specified is clearly not real. Matt is counting on the TCR value in the STOCK PROGRAM to deliver the needed temperature. Change software and you could easily change that?

You're missing the point with P and I values, they are basically useless here since there's a many seconds time constant between heater and concentrate. In a loop this slow nothing fancy is called for and could easily make it oscillate out of control. I'd suggest staying way clear.

Your call, of course.

OF
 

divinetribe

We are trying our hardest to become Medical Grade
Manufacturer
here is a little video i made to help with some problems with the quest,
anyone who bought a quest in the first batch will get upgraded parts that will help fix some of the issues and make it more reliable. just email me and I will put you on a list and when the upgraded parts and second production pieces come in i will send them out.

please see my youtube channel with other videos for a complete breakdown of the quest
 
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