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Discontinued The Grasshopper

Hjalmark

Oldest boy alive
get an Enano....portables are all well and good, but if you are a medical patient and need rock solid reliability, convection, ability to run small loads, and ability to be left on all of the time, get an Enano to compliment your GH.

Just a thought.

Cheers

Logs for life!!!

Perfect tool for medical user specially when you can adjust screen depth
 

diddymao

aint no party like a diddy party
ok so after trying and failing to find the perfect pfe mouthpiece extender iv bit the bullet and bought a new pfe that i have sent to the awesome ed from eds TnT.
the plan is for him to craft me something bespoke from one of his exotic hardwoods that fits nice and snug into the pfe, we havent come up with any fixed plans yet but im looking to commision a couple of pieces so any imput/design ideas etc that you guys have would be more than welcome.
 

Hjalmark

Oldest boy alive
I personally just want something in this shape allowing me to hold the pipe and operate the clicker with my thumb

8e82ac29595afa5c741c072118a16dbb--wooden-pipe-pipes-and-cigars.jpg


But not as bulky
 

Hjalmark

Oldest boy alive
I'd like to see a mod that cuts off both ends of a pfe, leaving a cylinder about 1/2" long that contains the threads and screen. Then press-fit that on to a nicely crafted wooden mouthpiece, so, a hybrid pfe.
Hoping this fits on my PFE and then maybe won't burn my lips
ss_wood_drip_tip_short_6_1024x1024.JPG
but I really don't like "hot harsh air" in the back of my throat so I think nothing will beat Pipey the pipe (he is all metal)
 

JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
I'd like to see a mod that cuts off both ends of a pfe, leaving a cylinder about 1/2" long that contains the threads and screen. Then press-fit that on to a nicely crafted wooden mouthpiece, so, a hybrid pfe.
This is a really good idea ... I was thinking earlier simply tapping the threads into the wood but that wouldn't hold up in the long run, even with hardwood, which got me thinking about insert with thread ... seems you were thinking the same! Didn't occur to me to just cut down the existing PFE's. Would be a lot more cost effective to build if you could just build a SS threaded insert though ... this shouldn't be a $30-$40 piece!
 

GrandWazoo

Well-Known Member
Being a long time out of your community. This summer a natural disaster happened to my GH : a great wave reached it and it got a short , since then it didn't work anymore. So I vaped for two months with another one , a good one with no issue at all , but at certain point I realized I wanted my GH back . So I sent it to Labs , they did a great job and now I finally have my Gh back. When I used both I didn't notice great differences , but now , now I understand how great the GH is. With the same kind of bud it is more efficient , and also the flavor is the best ! Very happy , three second heat , fantastic , Thank you Labs !
 
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JoeMama

Well-Known Member
Happy Autumn everyone....

I'm pretty sure the body of my ti is of the 'older' type, but I can't be sure... I've read here (in the distant past) about being able to "see the blue" inside the chamber behind the screen...

Anyway, my question is: I wish to remove the screen to observe how clean or not clean the below-the-screen area looks, and I thought it was simply a matter of tweezing the screen and turning it a bit to set it free. But it just seems to turn without any other notable reactions from this. I mean, it can turn repeatedly in place, not screwing up or down, or clicking into place, or anything....

How does one remove this thing? Or is this a bad thing to try and do?
 

MonkeyTime

Well-Known Member
Happy Autumn everyone....

I'm pretty sure the body of my ti is of the 'older' type, but I can't be sure... I've read here (in the distant past) about being able to "see the blue" inside the chamber behind the screen...

Anyway, my question is: I wish to remove the screen to observe how clean or not clean the below-the-screen area looks, and I thought it was simply a matter of tweezing the screen and turning it a bit to set it free. But it just seems to turn without any other notable reactions from this. I mean, it can turn repeatedly in place, not screwing up or down, or clicking into place, or anything....

How does one remove this thing? Or is this a bad thing to try and do?

You need to pull up on it to get it out. I use a fine pointed dental pick and grab it near the edge. I did notice today when the light hit it, that it's not flat anymore, there are dents where I've pulled on it.

Using your tweezers, are they fine enough to get into the holes? If so, I'm sure you'll pop it out fairly easily.
 

ktmstick

Well-Known Member
Happy Autumn everyone....

I'm pretty sure the body of my ti is of the 'older' type, but I can't be sure... I've read here (in the distant past) about being able to "see the blue" inside the chamber behind the screen...

Anyway, my question is: I wish to remove the screen to observe how clean or not clean the below-the-screen area looks, and I thought it was simply a matter of tweezing the screen and turning it a bit to set it free. But it just seems to turn without any other notable reactions from this. I mean, it can turn repeatedly in place, not screwing up or down, or clicking into place, or anything....

How does one remove this thing? Or is this a bad thing to try and do?
I use a needle that I have bent the end on to act as a hook to pull the screen out.
 

JoeMama

Well-Known Member
You need to pull up on it to get it out. I use a fine pointed dental pick and grab it near the edge. I did notice today when the light hit it, that it's not flat anymore, there are dents where I've pulled on it.

Using your tweezers, are they fine enough to get into the holes? If so, I'm sure you'll pop it out fairly easily.

Thanks, Monk... I do have the pointy tweezers (I used to use it to unscrew the screen in the mouthpiece before I got the PFE).

I'll keep at it. Also thanks for the heads up about the denting potential!
 

Vapetrees

Vaped Out
Turns out, I'm chicken. I really have no reason to pull that screen. And it feels wrong to start fucking with something that doesn't need fucking with. Wrong I tell ya!
You can’t really damage it by using the fine pointed tweezers, tweezing it from opposite ends of the screen(to not damage sensors in the middle of the screen), and pulling up :tup:
 

MoltenTiger

Well-Known Member
Turns out, I'm chicken. I really have no reason to pull that screen. And it feels wrong to start fucking with something that doesn't need fucking with. Wrong I tell ya!
Unless you have a straight to blue issue, I don't think removing the screen and cleaning will make any real difference.
I made a post a while back showing the gunk I'd found under my screen and explained the device wasn't getting to temp (or properly, not as hot as I've had these devices operate at, which I prefer). Cleaning it made no difference.

I think a straight pointy tool is the best for removing the screen (I used a medical pick), it must be levered up and dragged out. It takes a bit of force, but if slowly applied then there's no real risk. It's a sturdy screen, though it's just metal so some care is needed. Not a lot though, it's the sturdiest screen I've handled by a long shot.
 

Hjalmark

Oldest boy alive
The drip tips are in!!
IMG_20171114_152045.jpg

The longer one called "long stainless steel and wood drop tips (wd013) fitted perfectly

But hopper still in repairs so simulating the experience with my Enano gong and PFE stuck on that

The shorter wide bore one fitted too lose but the problem is the size of the silicon ring
IMG_20171114_152118.jpg

That seams to be thinner on the wide bore but little to tight when I switched the rings
IMG_20171114_152335.jpg

But definitely doable specially if you have access to a more of those rings and then any 510 tip would fit
151067018264138352514.jpg


Got the thing on 7 and that is like hopper on 4 but still not the same

Hopper heat stream is extremely thick and uniformed while Enano can cool down after couple of continuous big hits .. Or like 4-5 people using it same time
 

JoeMama

Well-Known Member
You can’t really damage it by using the fine pointed tweezers, tweezing it from opposite ends of the screen(to not damage sensors in the middle of the screen), and pulling up :tup:

Unless you have a straight to blue issue, I don't think removing the screen and cleaning will make any real difference.
I made a post a while back showing the gunk I'd found under my screen and explained the device wasn't getting to temp (or properly, not as hot as I've had these devices operate at, which I prefer). Cleaning it made no difference.

I think a straight pointy tool is the best for removing the screen (I used a medical pick), it must be levered up and dragged out. It takes a bit of force, but if slowly applied then there's no real risk. It's a sturdy screen, though it's just metal so some care is needed. Not a lot though, it's the sturdiest screen I've handled by a long shot.

Thanks, guys. I have both some dental tools as well as the pointy tweezers. It's tempting to try and take it off, but as you've said, Molten, if it ain't broke.... But good to know how it comes out, by levering it up. I guess it must be some kind of press-fit along the whole depth of the chamber. At first I thought there was a keyway or something that you'd have to find by turning it first. Good to know now.

GH came out to play tonight .Some nice Pineapple and The Pizza Show.
PzPF9bZ.jpg


That glass.... May I ask what it is and where you got it? It's the perfect size, methinks.
 

Morty

Well-Known Member
Here ya go man, I love it with the GH relly good with every vape I used with it TBH

I've been eyeing this exact piece. Seems perfect for vapor w/ the 3 hole diffy. I'm guessing the flavor is better than the 14mm rig w/ black trim you use w/ the Flowerpot ? Love the avatar BTW. This, probably not so much. :lol:

 

disGRUNTled

Well-Known Member
I've been eyeing this exact piece. Seems perfect for vapor w/ the 3 hole diffy. I'm guessing the flavor is better than the 14mm rig w/ black trim you use w/ the Flowerpot ? Love the avatar BTW. This, probably not so much. :lol:

Yeah MJ owned the Knicks I hated him and the Bulls with a fucking passion, but the worst dunk on Ewing from a Bull was by Pippen .....
 

Tommy10

Well-Known Member
So other than initial USB charger not working and no spare bats avaliable with shit battery life pretty much killed it out of home for me, but loved it at home. Got mighty and evo around the same time so it hasn't been a complete daily driver. Offically shit itself, light switch off mid draw and turning it back only gets a weak hit!
any idea? Would live to just fix it, can't be bothered shipping to the states if back to shop is an issue.
Also no real hot back end other than not working charger not previous issues
 

JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
So other than initial USB charger not working and no spare bats avaliable with shit battery life pretty much killed it out of home for me, but loved it at home. Got mighty and evo around the same time so it hasn't been a complete daily driver. Offically shit itself, light switch off mid draw and turning it back only gets a weak hit!
any idea? Would live to just fix it, can't be bothered shipping to the states if back to shop is an issue.
Also no real hot back end other than not working charger not previous issues
You could try cleaning the back end threads and battery contacts as well as rotating the dial a bunch of times, that works sometime (for a while) in your type of situation
 

Hjalmark

Oldest boy alive
Fickedy fuck fuck

Really annoying that we need to send in a battery with it

So my hopper got stopped by USA customs but made it safely to them some days later

Now I know it's getting shipped back because I got a call FROM THE BLOODY CANADIAN CUSTOMS !!!
giphy.gif


Sigh.. I hope I can convince them I dont need to send in also the litium ion battery next time it needs fixing

Anyone else here manage to send in hopper without battery?
 
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