VapCap Induction Heater for Desktop and in Car Use
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goodpunk6
Well-Known Member
Dynalowrider
Well-Known Member
Has anyone else noticed the lid to their Jarhead gets hot near the hole the coil sits in? I thought it was radiation heat from the cap, but it's from the coil. It will burn the shit out of your finger right next to the hole.
The magnetic field of the coil extends out from the coil, so it makes sense.
Thoughts? Comments? Ideas? Not criticism, just striving for perfection. Doc
Edit: I know don't put your finger there.
The magnetic field of the coil extends out from the coil, so it makes sense.
Thoughts? Comments? Ideas? Not criticism, just striving for perfection. Doc
Edit: I know don't put your finger there.
good point to note, for those making their own containers..
i was thinking about putting a skeletor in one of those cooljarz with fliptop lid...
sounds like that could result in a messy goop of plastic if not careful..
Yes it does, specially if your putting something non-inductive in the hole, just to turn it on. I found that if you use the VC to activate, this lid heating is much less. The VC takes most of the eddie field energy.
And yes, lol, don't put your finger there.
And yes, lol, don't put your finger there.
I explored the pipe idea a bit further and cobbled together the first one I made with a Walnut open twist stem.
'Please return your tip to the upright position' is all you need to remember, loose contents will fall onto the clicker and it's bloody annoying especially when it's the third time you've lunched it.
'Please return your tip to the upright position' is all you need to remember, loose contents will fall onto the clicker and it's bloody annoying especially when it's the third time you've lunched it.
Square4Life
Well-Known Member
Do these ship from Canada?
Also, any chance someone has found a nice way to put a Skeletor into a pen-form factor, or something a little more pocket friendly? (Assuming it could work with one battery)
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goodpunk6
Well-Known Member
Yes they ship from Canaday
As a Canadian, I have to say this is one of the rare times that something works out in our favour, lol
Square4Life
Well-Known Member
As others stated, it does ship from Canada, but mine came surprisingly fast.
Mine was going to the Southern US...shipped 8/2, received 8/7 (which includes the weekend as well).
flotntoke
thoroughly vaped
Have you seen our president? Think more and more is working in Canadians favor every day!
Had to send my PS back for a quick repair. No worries, @Pipes was awesome with the whole thing as we've come to expect. But, was first time I had to ship to Canada and one of the few times I had received something from there. Now have a whole new appreciation of how frustrating and expensive that can be. Certainly don't envy you with so many things coming from down here.
Summer
Long Island, NY
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flotntoke
thoroughly vaped
Always good to see a new FC member - especially one so enthused about something as cool as @Pipes ' creations. Welcome to FC!!!
Just wanted to mention it may be a good idea to skim through this whole relatively small thread. Think many of your questions, and probably other things you're thinking about will be easily answered by much that has come before. I usually don't find it too hard to skim through a thread like this after the first page or so. It's usually pretty easy to roll past the repeated questions of "when ready?, how much?, and the rest while keying on posts from @Pipes & others who have a lot of good info - and catch pics & vids while on the way through.
DirtyD
Well-Known Member
Ok so I just took a day or so and read this whole frig. thread. Didn't take long, will answer all questions.
. Do any of you guys try to see or detect a difference between the extraction of goodies using new ti tip with SS CCD vs ti CCD??...( I've been using skeletor )..this is a call to the vapmasters...just got the hang of the ti CCD install. 
. Love to hear what old heads think about diffs in CCDs...
Peace, D.
. Do any of you guys try to see or detect a difference between the extraction of goodies using new ti tip with SS CCD vs ti CCD??...( I've been using skeletor )..this is a call to the vapmasters...just got the hang of the ti CCD install. . Love to hear what old heads think about diffs in CCDs...Peace, D.
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flotntoke
thoroughly vaped
Ok so I just took a day or so and read this whole frig. thread. Didn't take long, will answer all questions.
Peace, D.
I have a mix in mine, with some SS screens from e-Bay before they were offered by DV, one DV SS and the rest Ti CCDs.
I haven't noticed any difference with different CCDs. I'm not timing in 1/100s of a second, but certainly not the difference noticed from SS vs Ti tips.
Summer
Long Island, NY
I've got it down to either: the Sony VTC5A 25A or the AWT 18650 3000mAh 40A. But I do have 2 questions before I make me decision, and any knowledgeable input would be greatly appreciated.
I like the AWT, not only because they have the upper mahs, but they are 40A, and I believe, maybe incorrectly so, that these may run cooler than the Sony. I'd rather err on the side of safety than higher mahs. Here's the battery specs if anyone's interested ... or not: Sony & AWT
So my 3 questions:
1) I want to know if there is either a significant or insignificant difference in one running cooler than the other?
2) Since you all rave about your satisfaction w/ IMR, can I have confidence is an off brand like AWT?
3) Under the specs, what is "Protected: NO, UNPROTECTED", & are there any protected 18650 batts manufactured?
BTW, I read the general battery safety info. over at IMR. With all the rechargeable batteries I have in-house [think flames candles (the way some of you experience vas, I experienced fcas
)], I gonna always have a couple of fire extinguishers readily accessible. Experiencing a house fire is truly a HORROR! It most definitely will rock & change (maybe forever ) your world.Edited to say: Oh, shoot, forgot to say, the whole reason for this post, is because my PS is on it's way!
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IMO, either of those will work fine,
I have to correct one thing though, the AWTs are actually rated for 20 amp not 40 amp as that is a manufacturer pulse test. No matter, as still enough current.
1/The running temperature of cells is a result of the cells "internal resistance". This spec is lower with high current cells. Higher rating means less voltage drop on heavy loads. With under rated cells there is more voltage drop because the internal resistance takes the difference. Thus, generates heat.
2/AWT is a well know brand. But anything is possible.
3/Protected cells are the button top cells and have a little circuit board under the wrapper on the bottom. This board is for over current protection. IMR cells have the safest chemistry but still can be dangerous if shorted. However, usually the short will be blown away before the battery would start to vent.
Non-protected are generally the flat top versions and are recommended for use in devices that have protection built in. Like the BMS unit in the Skeletor or Portsides.
Hope this helps. Batteries are to be taken seriously! Play safe.
I have to correct one thing though, the AWTs are actually rated for 20 amp not 40 amp as that is a manufacturer pulse test. No matter, as still enough current.
1/The running temperature of cells is a result of the cells "internal resistance". This spec is lower with high current cells. Higher rating means less voltage drop on heavy loads. With under rated cells there is more voltage drop because the internal resistance takes the difference. Thus, generates heat.
2/AWT is a well know brand. But anything is possible.
3/Protected cells are the button top cells and have a little circuit board under the wrapper on the bottom. This board is for over current protection. IMR cells have the safest chemistry but still can be dangerous if shorted. However, usually the short will be blown away before the battery would start to vent.
Non-protected are generally the flat top versions and are recommended for use in devices that have protection built in. Like the BMS unit in the Skeletor or Portsides.
Hope this helps. Batteries are to be taken seriously! Play safe.
Summer
Long Island, NY
Well, based on what you just said, Pipes, if the realized amp rating is only 20A then my choice is between the Sony & LGHG2, 3000mah, 20V. LGHG2 specs here scroll down for chart. This blogger did a highly detailed evaluation of this batt.
So, now, need too know which one runs cooler, 'cause that's the one I'm gonna buy? And, I need 3 batteries? (No, guys, I'm not lazy; been scrolling the thread, but haven't come across in 11 pages a pic showing the batteries yet.
)
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I get many charge cycles out of the VCT4, lower capacity at 1500 mAh, but more cycles...?
The VCT5A looks very similar but a little higher rating. But does that translate to less cycles as well? Not sure but have tried many cells and keep going back to the VCT4s. Also, best price wise too.
But that's just my opinion.
Something else to watch out for is the way they rate them. Sometimes the absurd capacity rating look really good but then you find out they say to charge to 4.3 volts instead of 4.2 volts so of course it will hold more but you sacrifice charge cycles, which they don't say. Bottom line is if specs are too good, they are likely fudged. For what it's worth, charge cycles depend directly on how high they are charged and military applications generally charge only to 90% max and get 2X the charge cycles. Just some food for thought. But that doesn't sell batteries.
To answer your question, the highest current rating (lowest internal resistance) will run coolest. In our application, heat should not be an issue as only on for short durations.
The VCT5A looks very similar but a little higher rating. But does that translate to less cycles as well? Not sure but have tried many cells and keep going back to the VCT4s. Also, best price wise too.
But that's just my opinion.
Something else to watch out for is the way they rate them. Sometimes the absurd capacity rating look really good but then you find out they say to charge to 4.3 volts instead of 4.2 volts so of course it will hold more but you sacrifice charge cycles, which they don't say. Bottom line is if specs are too good, they are likely fudged. For what it's worth, charge cycles depend directly on how high they are charged and military applications generally charge only to 90% max and get 2X the charge cycles. Just some food for thought. But that doesn't sell batteries.
To answer your question, the highest current rating (lowest internal resistance) will run coolest. In our application, heat should not be an issue as only on for short durations.
No problem. I went directly to the theory end of it. It would be the one with the lowest internal resistance which is a real number but we have to go with the provided, shaky spec of continuous current rating.
Without testing, it should be the one with highest output rating.
As for a catastrophic failure where the battery explodes, I think the Portside enclosure is about the safest way to go. Not a sealed unit and lots of cracks for gasses to escape. Any heat should be contained. As for odds, I'd say it's safer than the charger. Certainly much safer than a Samsung phone. And likely most phones for that matter.
Without testing, it should be the one with highest output rating.
As for a catastrophic failure where the battery explodes, I think the Portside enclosure is about the safest way to go. Not a sealed unit and lots of cracks for gasses to escape. Any heat should be contained. As for odds, I'd say it's safer than the charger. Certainly much safer than a Samsung phone. And likely most phones for that matter.
Summer
Long Island, NY
Yes, you did.
Thank you. Then I shall go with the LGHG2 as it has the highest output rating.[/QUOTE]
I wasn't questioning the integrity of the PS by any means, although it's comforting to hear about safety of the unit.
In the almost 2 months that I have been on FC, I KNOW that you know your stuff (hey, your right up there with the renowned George ), & I have followed the integrity of your build. I was just wondering the safety of batteries in general.By way of this, can anyone give me the name of a reputable States-side seller for the LGs as IMR doesn't carry them?
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