kushkush

happy camper....
Check out @Squiby's awesome post about this :D

Great pic! Thanks for that. I can promise you he didn't use a whole half of the S&B concentrate pad because if he did, there would have been no room left for the herb. That's one huge pad.

I have the tools he does but the cutter wouldn't cut that wire mesh. So I tried the cutter tool in my vape kit and those wouldn't cut it either, althought they cut plain wire just great. So....I took my sissors and that cut right thru the mesh. But it left a trillion tiny peices of metal. So now I'm thinking I don't know if it's safe even after uber-rinsing to be using it. The last thing I need is one tiny piece of metal in my lungs.

So for now I think I'll just use the hemp fiber...it only takes a teeny-tiny little-bitty piece to cover the bottom of the screen (CCD).

Thanks to all who are so willing to help here! :)
 
kushkush,
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SloJimFizz

Unknown Member
1) I know someone here cut a Volcano steel mesh concentrate pad to fit in these little tips. I just need to know how the pad was cut, what tools were used, etc.
Alright, I have succeeded in cutting the liquid pad in the S&B dosing capsule for concentrates, in half. I still couldn't get myself to cut my only big Plenty/Volcano pad, so I gave these another shot.
My first try a few weeks ago sucked. Metal strands everywhere, big fail. New pair of wire cutters instead of the metal cutters I used last time. Those did the trick. Went with the German Made pair for a few bucks more. Smooth cut, hardly any loose pieces. Shit yea! :rockon:


Loaded it into my Gen 2 Ti Tip and packed it down with the S&B brush handle.

ECf3b0b.jpg


Loaded with some tasty morsels, ready to go. Not till later though. Gotta function for awhile still.

kXoj9ht.jpg

q0KArcZ.jpg

:whoa:
 

stark1

Lonesome Planet
Great pic! Thanks for that. I can promise you he didn't use a whole half of the S&B concentrate pad because if he did, there would have been no room left for the herb. That's one huge pad.

I have the tools he does but the cutter wouldn't cut that wire mesh. So I tried the cutter tool in my vape kit and those wouldn't cut it either, althought they cut plain wire just great. So....I took my sissors and that cut right thru the mesh. But it left a trillion tiny peices of metal. So now I'm thinking I don't know if it's safe even after uber-rinsing to be using it. The last thing I need is one tiny piece of metal in my lungs.

So for now I think I'll just use the hemp fiber...it only takes a teeny-tiny little-bitty piece to cover the bottom of the screen (CCD).

Thanks to all who are so willing to help here! :)




dude, unless @Squiby has gone transgender recently, she is still a lady. :doh:
 

ClearBlueLou

unbearably light in the being....
Actually, you would have an extra condenser & stem.

Don't know if you have to have a mp on the vong. Seems sensible that you could just cover up the open mp end. (Use your own imagination as to what with.) Dynavap sells a spinning mouth piece for $15. BUT, we don't know yet if Dynavap is going to sell the Omni XL condenser with or w/o the mp; so if sold with, then you would have both a condenser & mouthpiece for a vong stem.

If I'm correct in my understanding, the adjustable mp controls how much air is let in through the carb hole so it's no longer necessary to feather the carb. So, once you adjust it for your desired air flow preference, you can forget it.
You don't need a mouthpiece on a vong; or on any of the other tip/body - tip/stem combos. If one is going to forgo the mp, I think a stem would work better than a body (making up for the missing length/mass of the mp).

I think we DO know about the Omni XL condenser: they were selling separately (at a very agreeable price) as recently as 10 days ago. The fact that they're not on the site now suggests to me that the Omni XL is so popular - even after the sale - that they can't make enough XL condensers to satisfy the demand.

If and when they catch up, the McGuffin will either be available combo-only or as a side-dish. Since they sell absolutely every separate piece of every vap they make, I'll put my money on being able to buy the XL in pieces, too.

Wanted to say, you're making yourself at home here quite nicely - said it before, but welcome.

I feel as though the airflow is even more restricted than the M, even when the condenser is screwed in all the way/ in its most open position. Adjusting the condenser only makes the draw resistance even worse.

Welcome, to our clubhouse!
('Cat House?)

Compared to so many here, I'm still new to this world, but I have to tell you I really don't get all the micro-nuance about air-flow. I confess, I am new to consumption devices more complicated than a pipe or a one-hitter, but aside from actual design modifications between generations, the air-flow is the air-flow: the caps admit the same volume of air at the same rate, varying only with the tip mods; the condenser admits the same volume of air at the same rate as any other condensers the same length; the bodies are not in the air path, the CCDs (screens) are indistinguishable between two virtually identical parts.

I suggest the 'difference in air-flow' is an illusion - if you've spent 20 years or more sucking on clogged pipes and tight joints, you've borne thru worse. MUCH worse. The resistance offered by an empty Omni is pretty much exactly the same as that of an original one-hitter. With the millions sold over the decades, I'm guessing air-flow issues are not bringing out the pitchforks. Screwing the condenser clockwise all the way you hit a zero-point, where the air path is completely unrestricted a la the M. Or the one-hitter. Unscrewing the condenser all the way (unclockwise) brings you to the point of greatest restriction - exactly the same as the M with the carb hole covered.

The screw mechanism lets you set your preference if you have one in between the same wide-open and the same shut tight. Every 'Cap ('cept maybe the OG?) is alike in ALL these details (correct me if I'm wrong, gang!). The XLs may or may not have an impact on the draw, but the condensers have the same cross-section (ID) so they are passing the same volume of air, just a tiny bit farther.
Does this seem off, or am I just misunderstanding the design of the omni? I was under the impression the Ti tip and the adjustable condenser would allow me to get a bit more airflow than the M and then a bit less when screwed deeper into the tip. This definitely doesn't seem to be the case.

It isn't the case. Sorry about the misunderstanding, but yeah - did any of that help?
I also notice that in the M, the condenser sits a few mm below the end of the body (on the tip side), while in the Ti Omni, the condenser is protruding from the tip-side of the stem, even when screwed completely into the mouthpiece. Is this the case for all of the omni condensers?

This should not be. I pulled mine out to see if I could duplicate that protrusion you mention, and I could not. clockwise 'til it stops, the condenser tip is recessed a full 2mm inside the body.

The two halves of your condenser have become separated, is my guess: that is, they're too far apart for the screw threads to mate up and do their work: counter-clockwise unscrews the the two halves completely; if the two pieces move even less than a millimeter apart, the threads will unhook, and going clockwise will no effect.
I definitely like the Ti tip in regards to heating, but I'm starting to regret purchasing the omni over a Ti woody due to the airflow trouble.

I hope you can find peace and pleasure w/ your new gear, without regret...it's actually pretty effin' fine.
 

xlr8shun

Well-Known Member
Lastest "mod" to my M, (inspired by the rolling paper w pinhole mod). its some heatshrink wrap people use for wires, instead of electrical tape..

I put the hole in AFTER i heated it up to fit, else it might have stretched the hole as it shrunk.

Doesnt require (for me) to even touch the carb anymore.. not too shabby!

 

deldrice

Well-Known Member
Appreciate the reply @ClearBlueLou !

I think you are right in that some of the discrimination was likely a bit just in my head. I was expecting a bit more airflow right out of the package and was disappointed to find it even less than the M. Now that I seem to have things where they should be, I can definitely tell a difference but not quite as much as I expected.

It seems like a few improperly fit XL condensers for the new omni slipped out into the wild and I got one of them. While even screwed entirely into the mouthpiece, the condenser extended into the tip as if it were screwed about halfway to 2/3 out of the mouthpiece. After pressing it down, it now sits below the edge of the stem as yours does.

Bonus photo of my new favorite way to medicate!
 
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VanCough

Environmentalist
Cant wait to receive my blackwood Ti Woody-XLS and matching XL Dynastash set! I've been in discussion with the dynavap team since the sale and my parcel is finally going to be shipped tomorrow :freak:

Here's a sneak peak:


http://imgur.com/HTdDBy2][IMG]http://i.imgur.com/HTdDBy2.jpg[/IMG][/URL
I've also got a matching blackwood mp and dab tool.

Next sale I'll grab an omni condenser and maybe a matching blackwood nonavong XL. The VAS is too strong!
 
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SloJimFizz

Unknown Member
Nice!!! What is the stand/holder that you have the tip sitting in?
Thanks.
Love that VC stand!
I got it here in the classifieds from member @mestizo who is a machinist and accessory maker here.
Made of titanium, holds the tip with cap on perfectly and heat sinks the tip pretty fast.
He had one to sell and it was taken, so he nicely sold me his cause he could bust one out later. So I'm guessing if his inbox got a few requests, he may bust out more than that.
He also made my big Buckeye Burl stem which has a stainless steel condenser he machined. Don't know the status on any more wood work, but I'm sure metal work is still in play.
 

Summer

Long Island, NY
+
Wanted to say, you're making yourself at home here quite nicely - said it before, but welcome.

That was so nice of you to say, CBL. Thank you! I'm really enjoying educating myself through FC.

I suggest the 'difference in air-flow' is an illusion - if you've spent 20 years or more sucking on clogged pipes and tight joints, you've borne thru worse. MUCH worse.

Too funny! So true! :rofl:

OK, now, to further my education, I ask the following: :hmm:

What's "the McGuffin?

I've been using the terminology body & stem interchangeably. Now, I'm getting the impression that stem denotes wood & body refers to metal & maybe glass???

The two halves of your condenser have become separated...

I took out the condenser to look at it, but the condenser itself doesn't separate in 2 pieces. What separates from the condenser is the tip & mp. I do see where the tip, via threading, screws into the condenser. Is this what your are referring to when you talk separation?

... but the condensers have the same cross-section (ID) so they are passing the same volume of air, just a tiny bit farther.

What do you mean by cross-section/ID?
 
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jaidyn

Well-Known Member
I've been using the terminology body & stem interchangeably. Now, I'm getting the impression that stem denotes wood & body refers to metal & maybe glass???

I can help you with this. A "body" is the standard size VapCap tube. If you have something like the Ti-Carbon S, that will have a "body." If you go with the longer Ti-Carbon XLS, you will have a stem." The exception IMHO is the M. Since the mouthpiece is part of the whole thing, I consider the M to have a stem.
 

Summer

Long Island, NY
@jaidyn , sorry, I'm still confused. I understand what you are saying, but when I look at the dynavap website, this page for instance:

https://www.dynavap.com/dynashop/vaporizers

and if you look under Uni, the Ti Woody is called a stem & it's the short version w/o the mp (which contradicts what you said) while the Ti Woody S next to it is called a body &, it, too, is the short version, but w/ a mp. I'm just not getting it.
 
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deldrice

Well-Known Member
@jaidyn

I think the easiest way to think about the body vs. stem is simply looking at the length.

A body is 45mm (standard Omnis, Ti - s)
A stem is 62mm (M, XL, Ti woody)



It gets confusing because its difficult to describe the "condenser housing" as I'll call it here, without using the word body or stem haha.
 

jaidyn

Well-Known Member
@jaidyn

I think the easiest way to think about the body vs. stem is simply looking at the length.

A body is 45mm (standard Omnis, Ti - s)
A stem is 62mm (M, XL, Ti woody)



It gets confusing because its difficult to describe the "condenser housing" as I'll call it here, without using the word body or stem haha.

Thank you for putting the measurements on here. I actually "knew" the difference had to do with the measurements, but for the life of me, I couldn't recall what those were exactly. I only remembered the total length was 92mm for the standard size, and 102 for the XL. And finding the word to use other than body or stem was another problem I was having. :lol:

@jaidyn , sorry, I'm still confused. I understand what you are saying, but when I look at the dynavap website, this page for instance:

https://www.dynavap.com/dynashop/vaporizers

and if you look under Uni, the Ti Woody is called a stem & it's the short version w/o the mp (which contradicts what you said) while the Ti Woody S next to it is called a body &, it, too, is the short version, but w/ a mp. I'm just not getting it.

@VanCough has it. What I was telling you was JUST for the body or stem alone. But the difference is also when you consider the mouthpiece or not. If you have a standard size condenser, AND a mouthpiece, you will be using a body. When there is no mouthpiece, but the same standard condenser, you will use a stem.
For the XL, you will be using a stem AND a mouthpiece as a body is too short to fit on the XL size condenser.
Look at that site again. For anything XL, it has a stem plus mouthpiece. If it does not say XL it is either a body and mouthpiece, or just a stem without mouthpiece.
 
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GreenHopper

20 going on 60
My M shall be here tomorrow.
I am excited to see what the hype is really about. Any tips, tricks, pointers that'll save me 700 pages of reading and help me get some solid cloudy rips?

Hello bud,

Check out the 'Best Of DynaVap Thread'. It's fairly short but has the best collation of useful info.

Usage techniques
Filter install techniques
Some other bits and bobs
 

Andreaerdna

If God is the answer, then the question is wrong
My M shall be here tomorrow.
I am excited to see what the hype is really about. Any tips, tricks, pointers that'll save me 700 pages of reading and help me get some solid cloudy rips?


Best way to start is to keep flame quite distant from cap

Even if M is more forgiving, best results are achieved brushing cap with the outer less bright flame.
If you go closer with torch (inner brighter flame) you will have more discoloration of the cap and less even heat distribution (combustion could happen)
Aim the center of the cap, lower you go hotter you click and vice versa

Also search the induction heater @Pipes is selling, great way to heat vapcap

And " Respect the click "

You will enjoy
 
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