Divine Tribe atty's

bizwaxzion

bizwaxzion

Enigmatic Cannabist
codyppc said:
Ok, I not really having very much luck here.

I went through a gram of Craft710 Sesh PHO in 3.5 days. I was really hoping on a week. I normally smoke a 1/4oz a week, but wife has me trying to convert to a healthier choice. She first had me trying the oils. I thought the oils were too expensive, so I figured I would try the oils. I think I was better medicated with the oils or flower. I really didn't like the oils and felt as if I was always missing something.

I did get a few nice hits. Like my very first one. I have no idea what setting that was on, but that's not the point. I think my biggest problem is I don't know what I'm doing.

I've spent hours reading this thread. I started with post 1941 when Matt first released v3, and worked my way to 2085 documenting everyone settings and watching how you guys first used this setup.

The things I am missing are the basics I'm afraid...

I paint on a BB size load on clean donut.
Take hit at desired temp.
Then what? take another? Keep hitting it until no more vape? Am I suppose to be seeing vape cloud? Taste is awesome at low temp with no vape cloud, but am I properly medicating?

Then the next question...
Do I just reload another BB size load? Matt said not to over load, Ok.
What is this reclaim stuff building up that doesn't seem to be getting used up? Do I need to remove it before I load next hit? I dont want to waste ANYTHING, does the reclaim have anything left to medicate with? The oil had got thinker toward a .5g cartridge, but eventualy got all used up. Why isn't his reclaim getting used up? Can I just Turn up the temp to a more "Reclaim Cooking" Temp and get the leftovers? Kind of like scraping your pipe and smoking the resin. LOL. Got to admit, those were my favs.

And then the last questions...

How often should I be cleaning this and which way? I cleaned after first .5 gram. Everything went into ISO and came out like brand new. Burned off extra ISO and then did other .5g. I never did the 20w pulse clean donut white like Matt does in his video, because nothing was cooked on, or stuck to donut. ISO cleaned everything up very easy.

I have no problems taking everything apart and what not. Infact, I kind of like it. I just feel as if I'm either wasting the product, or something. I just thought I would last a lot longer than it did.

Any help would be great. I'm just going to give the wax a break and hit the flower for a few days. I have 3g of wax left and would rather continue my research on this v3 before I keep doing what I'm doing. Plus, I spent all this money on the Pico and v3, I dont want to think I blew it. I would love nothing more than to be able to make this work. Not giving up yet.

Thanks, Cody
Click to expand...
My :2c: 10mm donut (TCR 230/30w/390-420F) or the 13mm (TCR 348/40w/420-440F) through a hydratube. I use a very small amount per load ~2mm diameter BB. Average hit duration is 12-14s. On a clean/new donut, 2 cloudy and 1 whispy hit. A small amount of material will remain. Subsequent reloads will follow the same cycle, but I get more cloudy hits between reloads (10 or 12 just now - napkin time). You should definately see vapor. The additional hits are not the virtual cornucopia of terpene rich goodness the first couple after a reload are, but they do have some of what you want. Unfortunately, increasing the temp only gets so far - some stuff still remains. I probably do a qtip or napkin cleaning (soak up reclaim and burn donut clean) every 1/2 gram and a rebuild every 2-3g.
 
C

codyppc

Active Member
invertedisdead said:
No I've been using the v3 atomizer, not the same donut. I've blown up a few seeing how far they go. I swab with a Q tip every couple days and do a full tear down deep clean every week or two-ish.
Click to expand...

Thanks for reply.

Everyones goes through different ammounts every "Couple Days", or "Week". Can you give a little more detail as to how much product before cleanings?

bizwaxzion said:
My :2c: 10mm donut (TCR 230/30w/390-420F) or the 13mm (TCR 348/40w/420-440F) through a hydratube. I use a very small amount per load ~2mm diameter BB. Average hit duration is 12-14s. On a clean/new donut, 2 cloudy and 1 whispy hit. A small amount of material will remain. Subsequent reloads will follow the same cycle, but I get more cloudy hits between reloads (10 or 12 just now - napkin time). You should definately see vapor. The additional hits are not the virtual cornucopia of terpene rich goodness the first couple after a reload are, but they do have some of what you want. Unfortunately, increasing the temp only gets so far - some stuff still remains. I probably do a qtip or napkin cleaning (soak up reclaim and burn donut clean) every 1/2 gram and a rebuild every 2-3g.
Click to expand...

So, if I understand this correctly...

On clean donut, with 2mm dia BB, I should get about 2 (Good Hits) Cloudy, and 1 (1/2 Hit) whispy hits. Then I reload with same size. Each reload is the same size with same results of 2 good and 1 semi good. After about 10-12 reloads (2mm Dia BB's) I need to remove risidual by using qtip, shaking upside down, blowing in air holes, whatever it takes, then cook donut with pulsing 20w.

I am thinking 10-12 loads = .5 grams. I can go as long as 2-3g before full break down.

I think I'm getting some clarity now on some of the basics. Awesome.

New questions...

How important is it to "paint the donut" vs just droping it on there or in middle of donut?
is there any other pointers I should know that would help me not watse any precious product?

Today is flower day, but I think tomorrow I think I will be start Gram # 2. I'm already felling a little better.

Thanks FC

Cody
 
Last edited by a moderator:
invertedisdead

invertedisdead

PHASE3
Manufacturer
codyppc said:
Thanks for reply.

Everyones goes through different ammounts every "Couple Days", or "Week". Can you give a little more detail as to how much product before cleanings?
Click to expand...

Maybe every .25g or so I'll Q tip. Sometimes sooner, been using a lot of rosin lately which leaves behind more residual plant fats and lipids so it needs to be mopped sooner. After using it for a bit you'll start to have a good idea of when it needs to be swabbed. I find this is typically sufficient cleaning for me until it needs a full tear down to clean oil off the base, splash guard, and air holes which I'll do in a bag of warm ISO. I haven't had such great luck with dry firing, killed quite a few donuts this way, even when watching my wattage. Ironically I've had better luck dry firing the 10mm over the 13mm donut, but I find the smaller donut more wasteful so don't really like using that one unless it's all I have.

I like painting the donut. The middle part doesn't make any contact with the heater so it's not ideal to just drop it there, if you're gonna drop it on try landing it on the donut itself. This works fine, though taste and hit size seem better from painting the donut. More surface area with the oil so it vaporizes better, when you just drop it on its more likely to pool and run off the donut.
 
bizwaxzion

bizwaxzion

Enigmatic Cannabist
codyppc said:
So, if I understand this correctly...

On clean donut, with 2mm dia BB, I should get about 2 (Good Hits) Cloudy, and 1 (1/2 Hit) whispy hits. Then I reload with same size. Each reload is the same size with same results of 2 good and 1 semi good. After about 10-12 reloads (2mm Dia BB's) I need to remove risidual by using qtip, shaking upside down, blowing in air holes, whatever it takes, then cook donut with pulsing 20w.

I am thinking 10-12 loads = .5 grams. I can go as long as 2-3g before full break down.

I think I'm getting some clarity now on some of the basics. Awesome.

New questions...

How important is it to "paint the donut" vs just droping it on there or in middle of donut?
is there any other pointers I should know that would help me not watse any precious product?

Today is flower day, but I think tomorrow I think I will be start Gram # 2. I'm already felling a little better.

Thanks FC

Cody
Click to expand...
I got 10-12 cloudy hits which is leaning toward cleaning time. I rotate through 8-10 strains at a time, so I have no idea how many loads in a half gram. Be careful with pulse cleaning the donut - you can wreck them. Note the cold resistance of the donut and watch the live resistance while pulsing so it doesn't climb too much. 20W can certainly do damage if applied too long. Hhhrm - maybe I should create a "cleaning" profile in arcticfox that would have a TCR value that allows the donut to get hot enough to burn clean but is still temp protected.

As far as painting the donut goes I do sometimes with shatter as it's easier to get off the dab tool, but with crumble I just drop it in and try to keep it on the donut (a quick pulse will stick it there) but sometime I'm just lazy and toss it in and go. The middle of the donut should be avoided as it lets most of the load run under the donut which is somewhat undesireable. If you hold the mod upside down between hits this will encourage oil to find the bottom of the donut surface for vaping. Cooldown hits (with a little extra velocity) will also encourage oil to pull up onto the donut for vaping and helps keep the air holes under the donut clear.
 
looney2nz

looney2nz

Research Geek, Mad Scientist
bizwaxzion said:
I got 10-12 cloudy hits which is leaning toward cleaning time. I rotate through 8-10 strains at a time, so I have no idea how many loads in a half gram. Be careful with pulse cleaning the donut - you can wreck them. Note the cold resistance of the donut and watch the live resistance while pulsing so it doesn't climb too much. 20W can certainly do damage if applied too long. Hhhrm - maybe I should create a "cleaning" profile in arcticfox that would have a TCR value that allows the donut to get hot enough to burn clean but is still temp protected.

As far as painting the donut goes I do sometimes with shatter as it's easier to get off the dab tool, but with crumble I just drop it in and try to keep it on the donut (a quick pulse will stick it there) but sometime I'm just lazy and toss it in and go. The middle of the donut should be avoided as it lets most of the load run under the donut which is somewhat undesireable. If you hold the mod upside down between hits this will encourage oil to find the bottom of the donut surface for vaping. Cooldown hits (with a little extra velocity) will also encourage oil to pull up onto the donut for vaping and helps keep the air holes under the donut clear.
Click to expand...

I for one would LOVE a quick and easy way to get to a 'clean' setting.
I use both of Biz's techniques to pull oil back onto the donut, this should help stretch your supplies as well.
 
herb forester

herb forester

Well-Known Member
Anyone tried the ceramic crucible 'upside-down', with the oil-side facing the donut? So the battery/atomizer/mouthpiece is pointed down (into female gong joint).

I'm ordering some to try with my v2.5 and modified cubis parts. The air inlet locations will be an issue, and of course a way to keep the crucible from falling out (mouthpiece mod?) I'm going for crucible dish functionality, but with everything else oriented downward to use with glass (think Yocan torch ish).
 
C

codyppc

Active Member
invertedisdead said:
Maybe every .25g or so I'll Q tip. Sometimes sooner, been using a lot of rosin lately which leaves behind more residual plant fats and lipids so it needs to be mopped sooner. After using it for a bit you'll start to have a good idea of when it needs to be swabbed. I find this is typically sufficient cleaning for me until it needs a full tear down to clean oil off the base, splash guard, and air holes which I'll do in a bag of warm ISO. I haven't had such great luck with dry firing, killed quite a few donuts this way, even when watching my wattage. Ironically I've had better luck dry firing the 10mm over the 13mm donut, but I find the smaller donut more wasteful so don't really like using that one unless it's all I have.

I like painting the donut. The middle part doesn't make any contact with the heater so it's not ideal to just drop it there, if you're gonna drop it on try landing it on the donut itself. This works fine, though taste and hit size seem better from painting the donut. More surface area with the oil so it vaporizes better, when you just drop it on its more likely to pool and run off the donut.
Click to expand...

Mopped and Swabbed.

Mopped is getting residual from below donut and putting it back on top of donut. Seems like there should be a good tool for this since it will be done so often. If there isn't such a perfect device, what do you guys use to "Mop" with?

Swabbed is taking a qtip and soaking up all residual you can and throwing that qtip away. I remember someone saying they saved those even and vaped them with something else.

I am afraid of dry firing as well. I was asking myself, from the very begining, why dont they just use a temp to cook with and not need to leave TRC mode. Especially if that the main point of TCR. I find it too easy to just tear down completely and clean with qtips and ISO. Is there a reason why this wouldn't be acceptable?

So, the bottom of the donut, isn't vaping the stuff below the donut? Keep stuff below donut on top with mop. Eventually, clean residual by heating up, wrist action to fling out of cup and onto ceramic housing. Everyonce in a while, wet qtip to clean donut top.

Man, I think I'm ready for round two.

Thanks, Cody
 
C

codyppc

Active Member
bizwaxzion said:
I got 10-12 cloudy hits which is leaning toward cleaning time. I rotate through 8-10 strains at a time, so I have no idea how many loads in a half gram. Be careful with pulse cleaning the donut - you can wreck them. Note the cold resistance of the donut and watch the live resistance while pulsing so it doesn't climb too much. 20W can certainly do damage if applied too long. Hhhrm - maybe I should create a "cleaning" profile in arcticfox that would have a TCR value that allows the donut to get hot enough to burn clean but is still temp protected.

As far as painting the donut goes I do sometimes with shatter as it's easier to get off the dab tool, but with crumble I just drop it in and try to keep it on the donut (a quick pulse will stick it there) but sometime I'm just lazy and toss it in and go. The middle of the donut should be avoided as it lets most of the load run under the donut which is somewhat undesireable. If you hold the mod upside down between hits this will encourage oil to find the bottom of the donut surface for vaping. Cooldown hits (with a little extra velocity) will also encourage oil to pull up onto the donut for vaping and helps keep the air holes under the donut clear.
Click to expand...

I like the idea for the cleaning profile. let me know what works for you, after a few weeks of not burning up coils, and I'll use it.

So, your saying the bottom of donut does actual vape. I guess it could be lower in the cup than I thought. I do remember the donut having residual all around it and in center hole, but no vape. Does the residual need to be vaped hotter?

I've been doing the upside down thing and cool hits to clear holes. I think that's when the crap starts dripping down the other side of the cup. Since the cup doesn't seal against the ceramic base. once i tip it back up, it drains down out side of cup and almost down into lead area. Maybe an upside down last hit to let it cool in ceramic, then scrap out before next use gets it hot again.

Thanks for the help, Cody
 
J

JonDigital

New Member
Hi guys and Happy Friday. Hate to be that guy but I am a noob to the forums and have a few questions.

I've spent quite a bit of time reading this thread front and back including Googling a lot of info regarding my PICO 75w mod.

I took receipt of the v3 yesterday and was up and running very quickly using Matt's instructional video of setting the PICO. My main questions are related to setting TCR vs TC Ni mode.

Out of the box I set my mod to the following:
  • Temperate Control Ni Mode
  • Wattage to 33
  • Started temp at 300 and worked my way up to 370.
I found the best combo of taste and vapor to be close to 360-370. I'm quite pleased. But here is my question.

When using TC Ni mode, do I need to set a TCR value or is that not required in this mode? When reading Matt's site vs his youtube video it's a tad confusing.

From his site it states to set to TC Ni mode AND set a TCR (unless I am reading this incorrectly).

On his YouTube page his video for setting up the PICO does not mention TCR. So you can understand why this noob is a tad confused.

My other question is regarding to wattage fluctuation when in use. Even with a 33 w value set, if I monitor the PICO's screen when in use it seems wattage fluctuates anywhere between 3-12w and never actually hits 33. What I am understanding here is the mod only needs between 3-12 to hit it's temperate goal? Is my thinking correct and my mod is operating properly?

As I said I am getting good results and am very pleased but my small amount of OCD is causing me to question things when reading through the forums.

Thanks everyone, sorry to be that guy.
 
bizwaxzion

bizwaxzion

Enigmatic Cannabist
Welcome to the forum. All TC modes leverage a TCR value. The "named" modes (Ni, SS etc) have pre-programed TCR values. Ni is around 600. Our favorite mods allow the user to input their own TCR values (m1, m2 m3) for more precise TC. The TCR value is what dictates how much rise in resistance is needed to raise the temperature of the coil. What you observe on your mod's display is the beauty of TC - modulation of the output current to keep the coil at a desired resistance - which is dictated by the TCR value of the mode you've chosen. These donuts only need 12-14w to maintain temp, but take a while to get there without some initial push - that's where the 33 watt setting comes in. The mod will supply that much power only until reistance rises to the desired point and then it will modulate it from there till you let off the button or the 10s cutoff is reached.
 
J

JonDigital

New Member
bizwaxzion said:
Welcome to the forum. All TC modes leverage a TCR value. The "named" modes (Ni, SS etc) have pre-programed TCR values. Ni is around 600. Our favorite mods allow the user to input their own TCR values (m1, m2 m3) for more precise TC. The TCR value is what dictates how much rise in resistance is needed to raise the temperature of the coil. What you observe on your mod's display is the beauty of TC - modulation of the output current to keep the coil at a desired resistance - which is dictated by the TCR value of the mode you've chosen. These donuts only need 12-14w to maintain temp, but take a while to get there without some initial push - that's where the 33 watt setting comes in. The mod will supply that much power only until reistance rises to the desired point and then it will modulate it from there till you let off the button or the 10s cutoff is reached.
Click to expand...

I appreciate your response so much. It seems I am on the right track with my thinking. To me, as a new user switching away from combustion, this seems like the "user friendly" way to go. This may sound crazy but my main concern since getting into the game was having my mod explode in my face due to improperly setting it up. I've read horror stories. You alleviated that concern.

Do you feel it's worth the firmware upgrade to ArticFox based on my usage? Does that firmware introduce too many advanced features that would confuse me even more?

Thanks again.
 
bizwaxzion

bizwaxzion

Enigmatic Cannabist
JonDigital said:
I appreciate your response so much. It seems I am on the right track with my thinking. To me, as a new user switching away from combustion, this seems like the "user friendly" way to go. This may sound crazy but my main concern since getting into the game was having my mod explode in my face due to improperly setting it up. I've read horror stories. You alleviated that concern.

Do you feel it's worth the firmware upgrade to ArticFox based on my usage? Does that firmware introduce too many advanced features that would confuse me even more?

Thanks again.
Click to expand...
If you just have the one mod and atomizer it may not be worth it, but if you like to tinker around with stuff it's definately worth it. The pico is a nice mod, but the small screen makes configuration a pain in the ass. Once you have gone to AF, you can change everything via computer screen and then just push the config to the mod. The device monitor is also pretty cool - allows you to see graphs of the mod functions in real time.
 
J

JonDigital

New Member
bizwaxzion said:
If you just have the one mod and atomizer it may not be worth it, but if you like to tinker around with stuff it's definately worth it. The pico is a nice mod, but the small screen makes configuration a pain in the ass. Once you have gone to AF, you can change everything via computer screen and then just push the config to the mod. The device monitor is also pretty cool - allows you to see graphs of the mod functions in real time.
Click to expand...
Excellent! Thanks again. I may fiddle around more over the 3 day weekend.
 
C

codyppc

Active Member
JonDigital said:
Excellent! Thanks again. I may fiddle around more over the 3 day weekend.
Click to expand...

I'm new too. 45 years old and learning new tricks. Loving it. I have learned so much in one week here at FC. A noob could learn a lot just reading everyone's answers to just my questions.

As for Atricfox... Flashing the firmware is VERY EASY. You can always return to normal by flashing back the stock firmware. Nothing to loose.

I think its worth it. The Pico will give you TC, but the only way you'll get TCR on the Pico is with AF. My favorite thing from Articfox was being able to increase the puff time from 10 seconds to 15 seconds.

Thanks, Cody
 
J

JonDigital

New Member
codyppc said:
I'm new too. 45 years old and learning new tricks. Loving it. I have learned so much in one week here at FC. A noob could learn a lot just reading everyone's answers to just my questions.

As for Atricfox... Flashing the firmware is VERY EASY. You can always return to normal by flashing back the stock firmware. Nothing to loose.

I think its worth it. The Pico will give you TC, but the only way you'll get TCR on the Pico is with AF. My favorite thing from Articfox was being able to increase the puff time from 10 seconds to 15 seconds.

Thanks, Cody
Click to expand...
Thanks man! I updated the firmware this morning to ArticFox and I think my favorite thing is the custom profiles for different attachments.

Two questions b/c there is no documentation for this. When using TC-Ni mode, I can leave preheat power at 100%? Can I also leave the resistance value to set zero with locked unchecked? I assume TC mode handles all this on the fly or should I be locking resistance in?

Here are my settings:

xYJ90To.png


Thanks again!

Edit: Doing some more research think I got it. I reattached the atomizer after cooling down in room temperature than reloaded the firmware config and it displayed a value for resistance so I locked it in.

bt0QmPX.png
 
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KeroZen

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
Hey for those who just made the move to custom firmware: the main interest is to enable a better regulation algo, be it "PID" in myevic or "PI" in AF.

Here's what the resistance curve looks like with the stock algo on the evic VTC mini. Everytime it says "protection" it just cuts the power abruptly:

qEq9a5w.png


And here is the voltage output from the regulator to the atty for the same recording period:

mmLea4L.png


When you enable PI or PID you get a continuously varying voltage output, temperature regulation is way smoother (not that it's not perfect on my graph but this is due to another reason still under investigation)

cJAS0q0.png


Tuning these closed loop systems can be almost an art but there are also some methods and using the device monitor in the NFE toolbox (works with both firmware) you can do it live with your vape while reading the graphs.

It's not perfect but I wouldn't go back to the stock algo.
 
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invertedisdead

invertedisdead

PHASE3
Manufacturer
KeroZen said:
Hey for those who just made the move to custom firmware: the main interest is to enable a better regulation algo, be it "PID" in myevic or "PI" in AF.

Here's what the temperature curve looks like with the stock algo on the evic VTC mini. Everytime it says "protection" it just cuts the power abruptly:

qEq9a5w.png


And here is the voltage output from the regulator to the atty for the same recording period:

mmLea4L.png


When you enable PI or PID you get a continuously varying voltage output, temperature regulation is way smoother (not that it's not perfect on my graph but this is due to another reason still under investigation)

cJAS0q0.png


Tuning these closed loop systems can be almost an art but there are also some methods and using the device monitor in the NFE toolbox (works with both firmware) you can do it live with your vape while reading the graphs.

It's not perfect but I wouldn't go back to the stock algo.
Click to expand...

Should I be setting my own resistance based on the live feedback, or should I just lock it and let it choose the resistance for me?
 
invertedisdead

invertedisdead

PHASE3
Manufacturer
Well I'm absolutely digging this Arctic Fox. Haven't had access to a computer for a while, really liking the versatility now. One of my favorite features is how I have it automatically turn off and lock instead of just sleep, plus shortening the sleep time so its not wasting battery sitting around. 15 second puff is awesome and the improved TC seems to be reducing splatter and is dramatically helping vaporize the whole load in one draw instead of leaving a bunch of residuals on the donut, as well as giving me better hits at lower temps. Also loving these separate profiles for my different donuts, a total worthwhile upgrade no doubt.
 
Danksta

Danksta

Well-Known Member
invertedisdead said:
Well I'm absolutely digging this Arctic Fox. Haven't had access to a computer for a while, really liking the versatility now. One of my favorite features is how I have it automatically turn off and lock instead of just sleep, plus shortening the sleep time so its not wasting battery sitting around. 15 second puff is awesome and the improved TC seems to be reducing splatter and is dramatically helping vaporize the whole load in one draw instead of leaving a bunch of residuals on the donut, as well as giving me better hits at lower temps. Also loving these separate profiles for my different donuts, a total worthwhile upgrade no doubt.
Click to expand...

EDIT: nvm
 
Danksta,
wiz4769

wiz4769

Member
I see that most here are discussing the V3 and not the Gen2 dry herb atty. I just purchased the Gen2 to give it a shot, who here uses the dry herb atty and what is it comparable to as far as taste and cloud production? I have seen the only review I could find from VapeLifeX but that is it.
 
WakeAndVape

WakeAndVape

VapeLife X
wiz4769 said:
I see that most here are discussing the V3 and not the Gen2 dry herb atty. I just purchased the Gen2 to give it a shot, who here uses the dry herb atty and what is it comparable to as far as taste and cloud production? I have seen the only review I could find from VapeLifeX but that is it.
Click to expand...
the taste and cloud production are comparable to the davinci IQ... with the right settings. but it differs from the IQ because everything is 'ON Demand'

i use a fine grind, semi-firm pack and use it in power mode at 30w drawing slowly.

by the 2nd or third cycle you'll notice the big clouds forming.

invertedisdead said:
I've been wanting to try it, but with the rosin technique I haven't had much interest in hitting flowers lately. @WakeAndVape gets huge clouds in his video so it at least appears to hit as hard as the best of them.
Click to expand...
even with wax available, for some reason...i have to have flowers daily. :shrug:
 
wiz4769

wiz4769

Member
Thank you sir for your quick reply and also your reviews across the board....I will update once I get mine and get to test it out.

The fact this costs $38 and can hit that well is impressive.
 
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wiz4769,
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