VapCap Induction Heater for Desktop and in Car Use

Pipes said:

Looks good on paper. I'm not totally convinced the battery pack is going to fit as you hope. Maybe if sitting centered as that is a huge mug. But with it being a cylinder, you will run out of room moving towards the side very quickly. The best approach, which I was considering as well depending on design, would be to use 3 ea. single cell holders daisy chained together so the arrangement has more flexibility. In fact, I have just ordered a few to accommodate requests like yours.
Prototyping and calculating how things will come together is a task which will almost always have hitches. I generally make little boxes out of folding paper to the actual size of components. Gives a 3D visual of how it fits together. Then it's easy to try different ways to put it all together.

Click to expand...

Yeah damn I didn't even realize that it would have to be pretty close to perfectly centered! Hopefully I won't have to cut out the inner layer of the cup to make room. I'll order a couple of the single battery holders just in case. I think I saw a triangle shaped PCB BMS thingy earlier today, I'll have to go back and find it.

But that paper folding idea is brilliant! I will definitely try that. It should be easier once I have the cups.

I had another question about voltage too, if I opted for a dual cell setup at only 7-8 volts, would that be enough for a decently fast click? or would that even work? I would be willing to sacrifice a little bit of functionality for the sake of saving space if I had to. My goal is to get this to fit into a 20oz mug.

Rumble Duck said:

.. I think I saw a triangle shaped PCB BMS thingy earlier today, I'll have to go back and find it.

..if I opted for a dual cell setup at only 7-8 volts.. would that even work?..

Click to expand...

This induction circuit won't be very happy below around 10 volts. It still seems to work reliably at 9 volts (lower limit of 3 battery setup) though the transistors heat up a bit more since their gates don't open all the way and the transistors aren't as efficient.

If it does run, 7-8 volts is plenty for the actual induction. However, I think most of the transistors I blew were due to low voltages like this from my current limited power supply whose voltage would drop, so it won't be reliable.

I'm going to experiment with this sometime though. I plan to use a boost converter to bump the 7 volts up to about 18 volts to drive the gates, while the rest of the circuit runs on 7 volts.

Yep I've seen triangular BMS's before too. They should work, since this circuit doesn't actually draw more than about 8 amps (I've set my induction heater to work at about 4 amps).

@Pipes , hope you are doing good. Today I was delighted that my jarhead finally arrived from its slow boat trip.
However my heart has just been broken when I opened the package to find that the unit has been damaged in transit.
Here is a photo:


Please can you tell me if you think it will still work? If so I can surely superglue the unit back together.
Just my luck man! So many things have suddenly gone haywire. Isnt that always the way, bad luck striking in multiples!

Any advice is appreciated greatly thanks.

Edit- I cant recall what page the instructions are on for operation, but I tried the unit by pushing the vaocap tip into it until it clicked down, and it doesnt appear to be working at all. No heat. So surely the main body has been damaged? It would have been rattling around once the plastic snapped from holding it up against the lid.
Unless I am doing something wrong? The power supply light up so dont think that is the problem.

EDIT 2- Its okay Pipes, it does seem to be working now. I tired again and got a click very quickly, even though I couldnt feel any heat holding the unit in my hand.

I hsvent found the instructiins yet, but Im sure it said to wait 3 or 4 seconds after the click?

@Stu you are the man in the knoe and I would really appreciate a word on your experience with the jarhead and click, how long after etc?

I really dont want to risk combustion, but maybe it is necessary to go past the click with the jarhead?

The 2 little hits I just did, one on the click, it surprised me as I dodnt think the unit was workong- the first I stopped at the click. No visible vapor, and a fast cool down click. The second, I went about 2 seconds past the click. I got a light but very smooth and tasty hit.

I expebcted this heayer to make it possible to reliably get better tasting, .ower temp, smoother and healthier valor using the Vapcap. My initial delve here has convinced me tbat is true.

Im so thriled it works! Thank you so much @Pipes it got here in one piece (well not really, but a bit of superglue hopefully and all good)!

Alexis said:

@Pipes , hope you are doing good. Today I was delighted that my jarhead finally arrived from its slow boat trip.
However my heart has just been broken when I opened the package to find that the unit has been damaged in transit.
Here is a photo:


Please can you tell me if you think it will still work? If so I can surely superglue the unit back together.
Just my luck man! So many things have suddenly gone haywire. Isnt that always the way, bad luck striking in multiples!

Any advice is appreciated greatly thanks.

Edit- I cant recall what page the instructions are on for operation, but I tried the unit by pushing the vaocap tip into it until it clicked down, and it doesnt appear to be working at all. No heat. So surely the main body has been damaged? It would have been rattling around once the plastic snapped from holding it up against the lid.
Unless I am doing something wrong? The power supply light up so dont think that is the problem.

Click to expand...

What a shame man, sorry to see your JarHead has taken damage.

It might be worth taking some more pics so @Pipes can see if there are any loose or damaged components.

Hope there's a simple and quick solution for you.

GreenHopper said:

What a shame man, sorry to see your JarHead has taken damage.

It might be worth taking some more pics so @Pipes can see if there are any loose or damaged components.

Hope there's a simple and quick solution for you.

Click to expand...

Thanks buddy- I just edited my above post. It works! Gotta do more testing now. So relieved, even more so cos Pipes seems like a real nice, selfless dude, and last thing I want is to be coming back to him with bad news.

Ouch, yes, re-gluing isn't a problem but would use more JB-Quick Weld as usually holds best. Some ISO wiping of the unit first will let it adhere better.
The main concern is it isn't turning on by pressing the tactile switch.
Could you take a couple pics of the wiring side from a couple angles and PM them to me?
Something physical must have done something.

Pipes said:

Ouch, yes, re-gluing isn't a problem but would use more JB-Quick Weld as usually holds best. Some ISO wiping of the unit first will let it adhere better.
The main concern is it isn't turning on by pressing the tactile switch.
Could you take a couple pics of the wiring side from a couple angles and PM them to me?
Something physical must have done something.

Click to expand...

Thanks Pipes. I presume you saw my update and that it does work? I am going for ,y 3rd heat cycle now, but I am presently amazed at how different the effect I just got is! Its like a total.y different vaporizer- smoother, tastier, healthier! And the high I have from 2 tiny hits, is incredible! Wow. This is about far more than ease of use. I am suddenly convinced the torch heating is responsible for the negative high heat apsect of the vapcap, where the vapor is often not great tasting and somewhat inhealthy, dirty, to me as an allergy sufferer anyway.

What a creation you have here! I think all vapcappers should have this option. Get ready for business and a huge developing market demand for vapcap heaters! Seriously!

Great news! Glad you got it going.
Your torch will see a lot less use now.
Enjoy it!

Alexis said:

@Stu you are the man in the knoe and I would really appreciate a word on your experience with the jarhead and click, how long after etc?

Click to expand...

With the Ti-tipped vapcap, I stop at the click (I'll let it go a second past the click for the first heat cycle, though) and that works well for me. With the OG glass vapcap, the click comes about twice as fast, but I found that the temperature is too low to function, so it requires several seconds past the click for optimal performance.

Pipes said:

Great news! Glad you got it going.
Your torch will see a lot less use now.
Enjoy it!

Click to expand...

Thank you Pipes. I know your sentiments are always genuine!
I have done 2 medium full bowls now. I have a great and totally different high. Much more like a vaporizer. The vapor was nothing like usual. No thick, dense milkiness. But much tastier.

The effect is actually stronger. Not the same hit and punch, but I feel like Im "on" something.

However, I immediately noted one potential issue. When I emptied the first load, I saw the herb on top was dark brown, and the underneath herb was very light, even green in parts.
I didnt realize the cap was heated only from the bottom- Im pretty thick really, bless!

Anyway, I ttied to remedy it by pushing the second load down slightly so it stayed in there and didnt touch the cap. This improved the extraction- more even, but not nearly as even as torch heating.

The trick besides this will surely be to know how long past the click to heat.

Here are my two favorite vapcap go-tos for using at home with my jarhead.


The ti glassy xls is for daytime. The v3 tip set to the smallest bowl size, and I've ordered some more ti ccd's to make a hemp sandwich the next time I clean it. A second or two past the click will give tasty microdoses and again for popcorn. The 18mm gong has no room for hemp in the bowl, because it's my nighttime flower knockout artist. Its v4 tip is set to maximum bowl size, and through water I can kill that bad boy in a single rip; six full seconds after the click no charring. I may experiment by putting some loose hemp in it the next time I clean it, but it's easy enough to swab out with iso/hemp for later enjoyment in my og no biggie.

This works out well because these don't fit in my dynastash, and I have 2.5 other vapcaps that do

@Alexis, @Pipes knows my adhesive is slowly coming apart as well. I'm considering adding more jb weld as advised, but also considering other methods that will involve strapping the unit more securely to the lid.

I'm also wondering if @Stu's prototype in the smaller jar that's fastened by four screws instead of two, is more securely attached to the lid/jar. If so I would love to see a detail of how it's mounted to the lid.

I would like to end up with both a portside and a jarhead, if I can get my unit mounted more securely inside the jar. I really like the reliability and predictability of @Pipes' electronics in my ac-powered jarhead.

rz said:

This induction circuit won't be very happy below around 10 volts. It still seems to work reliably at 9 volts (lower limit of 3 battery setup) though the transistors heat up a bit more since their gates don't open all the way and the transistors aren't as efficient.

If it does run, 7-8 volts is plenty for the actual induction. However, I think most of the transistors I blew were due to low voltages like this from my current limited power supply whose voltage would drop, so it won't be reliable.

I'm going to experiment with this sometime though. I plan to use a boost converter to bump the 7 volts up to about 18 volts to drive the gates, while the rest of the circuit runs on 7 volts.

Yep I've seen triangular BMS's before too. They should work, since this circuit doesn't actually draw more than about 8 amps (I've set my induction heater to work at about 4 amps).

Click to expand...

Ahhhh okay! I'll probably buy a few extra coils for some testing. Just ordered all of the parts to make the all in one cup! The wait long begins.

Good news everyone, my naked heater arrived today and now I only need to convince my friend to find some time to turn me a wooden enclosure on his lathe. Tested it with a couple of dry sessions (trying not to vape at least in the morning...) and holy shit this thing is fast!
Thank you @Pipes I'll post some pictures as it's finished. Any idea on how to make the LED light visible when the unit will be inside the wood?

The Beagle said:

Good news everyone, my naked heater arrived today and now I only need to convince my friend to find some time to turn me a wooden enclosure on his lathe. Tested it with a couple of dry sessions (trying not to vape at least in the morning...) and holy shit this thing is fast!
Thank you @Pipes I'll post some pictures as it's finished. Any idea on how to make the LED light visible when the unit will be inside the wood?

Click to expand...

Word up Beagle, my vapcap and herborizer brother! Did you notice uneven load cooking? I did 2 loads 2 days ago, and the extraction both times was very uneven. Dark brown,,even black on top and very light beneath, even green.

I need to glue my unit back together befroe more trials to do some serious testing.

The Beagle said:

Good news everyone, my naked heater arrived today

Any idea on how to make the LED light visible when the unit will be inside the wood?

Click to expand...

Great, I think you will enjoy!

Led light can pass a thin layer of wood (tamed like Spielberg ET finger), I do not know how your enclosure is made, ideally best would be drilling a hole from inside stopping just before passing through as soon as light becomes visible on the outside

Alexis said:

Did you notice uneven load cooking? I did 2 loads 2 days ago, and the extraction both times was very uneven. Dark brown,,even black on top and very light beneath, even green.

Click to expand...

So yesterday night I tried some induction sessions.
First one has been pretty disappointing as the clicks seems to come too early and respecting them means almost no vapor so I tried to heat it for a few seconds past the clicks resulting in catastrophic combustion and a dirty bubbler to clean. My bad, should have started with dry sessions to get an idea about how fast this thing works.
I tried two more sessions and it seems obvious that induction heating works different from torch heating (I guess because only the cap is getting hot and it needs to transmit heat to the tip) and I'll need some practice to get my technique straight.
Anyway I couldn't detect no uneven cooking at all, everytime the abv was a nice even brown (except for the first tragic even ash grey...).

Andreaerdna said:

do not know how your enclosure is made, ideally best would be drilling a hole from inside stopping just before passing through as soon as light becomes visible on the outside

Click to expand...

The idea would be to have a log vape style turned wood piece so I guess it would be a major pain in the ass to drill a hole from the inside stopping just before passing through the side wall, I'll see what my friend says and in case try to drill an hole and use some clear plastic or resin to carry the led light.

I think it's time to read the whole thread again to see what other users are doing, any tips on how much to heat?

Ooooo that would look so nice with an led behind some turned wood...but yeah I can't imagine how to do it unless there was a drill specially made for tight angles like that? lol It would be a bit thicker than the average modern log, and that would give at least a little bit of room to work inside the opening.

Yes, different than using a lighter, that's for sure. I think that since it heats up just the outside and quick that when inhaling you get an initial rush of exceptionally hot air. Found that if you pause for a second between removing from heater and inhaling, it helps. Gives time for some heat transfer to the load.
Timing is something you guys will have to figure out as I think every cap/stem model combination varies some. Mine is the click followed by a 3 count and for hit from cold, and a 2 count for the following hits.

If you want to add a LED indicator, you can add the LED to the blue input connector on the driver unit. Use thin wire and dab solder directly to the accessible terminals.This is a 12 volt source which drives the coil. A standard LED with a 500-1K ohm series resistor will work fine.

Pipes said:

Yes, different than using a lighter, that's for sure. I think that since it heats up just the outside and quick that when inhaling you get an initial rush of exceptionally hot air. Found that if you pause for a second between removing from heater and inhaling, it helps. Gives time for some heat transfer to the load.
Timing is something you guys will have to figure out as I think every cap/stem model combination varies some. Mine is the click followed by a 3 count and for hit from cold, and a 2 count for the following hits.

If you want to add a LED indicator, you can add the LED to the blue input connector on the driver unit. Use thin wire and dab solder directly to the accessible terminals.This is a 12 volt source which drives the coil. A standard LED with a 500-1K ohm series resistor will work fine.

Click to expand...

Thank you Pipes, that's gold.

@Alexis my jarhead heater heats very evenly/uniformly. Slightly darker on top of the load, but not charred unless I take the whole load too far. I tend to rotate after the click by habit, but don't seem to need to.

grokit said:

@Alexis my jarhead heater heats very evenly/uniformly. Slightly darker on top of the load, but not charred unless I take the whole load too far. I tend to rotate after the click by habit, but don't seem to need to.

Click to expand...

Thanks man. I have ordered some JB Kwik Weld, as per @Pipes ' recommendation. I also will keep in mind Pipes' suggestion to wait a second after removing the cap from the heater, to prevent the rush of very hot air and allow the heat to dissipate further down the tip.

Maybe this was my issue? Inhaling immediately so that the much hotter air is cooking the top of the load faster?
Just a thought anyway, it makes sense. Its a little frustrating I will need to wait before more trials, but I certainly appreciate your assurances Grokit! Have awsome weekend man!

Good day all! I decided last night to test put my injured jarhead with my omnivap again, to see if I could use it to cook the load more evenly.
I didnt have much success. Something just doesnt seem to be right. I tried stopping at the click, 2 seconds later, 3 seconds. No matter what though, the top of the load is getting scorched black while the underneath is barely touched.

And it is really bothering my throat. Here is a photo of my first load, after 2 heat cycles I belive:

As you can see, the top of load is blackened, and the rest is practically fresh.
I decided to try some unground nugs and a less full chamber, but the same occurred:


As the rest of you are reporting no such issues, and even load cooking, I am wondering if there may be some fault with my jarhead?
@Pipes did you test my unit in use by any chance?
I just watched @Stu 's jarhead video again. I remembred noticing it took a long while for his Omnivap to click in the jarhead. Mine clicks very quickly, like 3 seconds. Stu's is closer to 10.

Do you think mine is heating up too much, too quickly, with the heat building up excessively at the tip, before it can dissipate down the bowl more? I really dont see why else this would be occuring. At the moment I cant see myself being able to use the unit like this.

Any insight is very appreciated Pipes, and Im so sorry to seem like a complainer. Maybe there is a modification I can make to reduce the power? Or a local electrical repair man?

No one else with issues?

And no matter using a 110V charger or a 220v charger for driving the PS/Skeletor?

What type of connector is necessary for connecting the PS/Skeletor with a charger?

Whats about the LED? Which type has one?

@Pipes Perhaps some questions - and answers - for your FAQ?

Alexis said:

Good day all! I decided last night to test put my injured jarhead with my omnivap again, to see if I could use it to cook the load more evenly.
I didnt have much success. Something just doesnt seem to be right. I tried stopping at the click, 2 seconds later, 3 seconds. No matter what though, the top of the load is getting scorched black while the underneath is barely touched.

And it is really bothering my throat. Here is a photo of my first load, after 2 heat cycles I belive:

As you can see, the top of load is blackened, and the rest is practically fresh.
I decided to try some unground nugs and a less full chamber, but the same occurred:


As the rest of you are reporting no such issues, and even load cooking, I am wondering if there may be some fault with my jarhead?
@Pipes did you test my unit in use by any chance?
I just watched @Stu 's jarhead video again. I remembred noticing it took a long while for his Omnivap to click in the jarhead. Mine clicks very quickly, like 3 seconds. Stu's is closer to 10.

Do you think mine is heating up too much, too quickly, with the heat building up excessively at the tip, before it can dissipate down the bowl more? I really dont see why else this would be occuring. At the moment I cant see myself being able to use the unit like this.

Any insight is very appreciated Pipes, and Im so sorry to seem like a complainer. Maybe there is a modification I can make to reduce the power? Or a local electrical repair man?

Click to expand...

Hi Alexis,

Any chance you could post a pic of the Omni in the Jar Head heater port?

I'm just wondering if whatever bump caused the plastic casing to snap possibly caused the glass port to shift inside the coil. Or maybe the activation button has slipped. This might cause the induction coils to heat at the wrong location on the Tip.

It's just a wild guess but I figured a pic of the Omni in the unit might help @Pipes with a diagnosis.

GreenHopper said:

Hi Alexis,

Any chance you could post a pic of the Omni in the Jar Head heater port?

I'm just wondering if whatever bump caused the plastic casing to snap possibly caused the glass port to shift inside the coil. Or maybe the activation button has slipped. This might cause the induction coils to heat at the wrong location on the Tip.

It's just a wild guess but I figured a pic of the Omni in the unit might help @Pipes with a diagnosis.

Click to expand...

Thanks again buddy! You are always so quick to jump (or should I say "hop"?) In with assistance, or failing that, support!

I will take some shots later for Pipes. I have been thinking something must have happened to it. I swearvwhen I first tried to use it, it didnt heat up at all. I thought it was dead, then it suddenly surprised me with a near instant click.