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CCA Liger banger V3.0

toros23

Well-Known Member
@YabbaDABBAdo Sadly the d-nail carb doesn't work on the 30mm. IIRC someone reported that it can be used to cover the 20mm Liger bucket, but it can't be left to sit on top hands free without falling off... Can't recall if any air got around the edges of the cap still.

The dnail cap will sit on top of the 20mm liger but it will not make an airtight seal. You can make somewhat of a seal if you press hard enough but this only seems doable while it is cool and while pressing down on the actual cap. I can't imagine doing this with the dabber while things are heating up.
 

Baron23

Well-Known Member
@Baron23 thank you for the info and the link to the plier covers. I may have to pick up some of these tomorrow seeing as they are not expensive.

@mutten840 thank you for the detailed explanation and pictures. That helps a lot! I now understand how the pliers are used to tighten the coil. I had no idea this is how it is done, and the visual and your explanation of turning it to tighten it makes me feel better about trying it. I noticed you have the tail (?) of the coil coming out of the bottom. I’ve read in a couple of posts about having it come out the top. Is there a noticeable difference in how it works one way or the other?

This forum is the best! Everyone is so helpful!
@mutten840 , do you suggest turning the coil the other way around so the "handle" end is at the top of the bucket instead of the bottom? I thought that was recommended at one point but could be confused. That is how I have mine and am wondering if I did it upside down.


@nickdanger @toros23 I have been using it at the top as those pics were old. But it you find it is too top heavy on your piece. You can try flipping it to the bottom position (Like I had mine in the pic)

If you get stuck or uncertain. Hit us up. We are all about helping people over the learning curve of the Ligers.

I believe that the thermocouple is at the very end of the coil. Therefore, place the TC at either top or bottom depending on where you want to most accurately measure and provide feedback to the controller.

Of course if you let it heat soak to equilibrium, it don't really matter. I have my handles at the top (TC at the bottom). Its this or that, don't see it making a big difference, myself.
 

mrbonsai420

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
Thanks for offering to help with vids. For me personally, it is hard to get a gauge on performance when you are doing such large dabs. While fun to watch, not practical for my everyday medicating needs. Would love to see you do some smaller, low temp dabs on the 20mm sapphire/storm with a medium sized, clear rig for comparison purposes. I looked through your IG a while back but don't remember seeing anything like that.

I will post some with you exact specifications this weekend @toros23 , here are a few until then with Quartz and sic inserts.


Those big ones are just stop , drop , and glob videos :whoa: I would be broke and passed out if I dabbed those all of the time!

I normally take human sized dabs like everyone else, I promise lol

Here are some pretty normal sized dabs although I take tiny ones too. I will post a few of those

small dab here
https://www.instagram.com/p/BNf0NUEh2Yq/?taken-by=mrbonsai710&hl=en

normal dab here (That sugar was fluffy, and SO tasty!)
https://www.instagram.com/p/BN5GGIQh38M/?taken-by=mrbonsai710&hl=en

Pretty normal dab
https://www.instagram.com/p/BNPRZESBc4O/?taken-by=mrbonsai710&hl=en
 
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I am still learning - what does twisting the carb cap do? Just move where the airflow is coming in? What does the directional airflow do? I feel like the bucket/bowl is so small, it's like, isn't the airflow just coming in all over the top?
 
scalescliffs,

mrbonsai420

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
I am still learning - what does twisting the carb cap do? Just move where the airflow is coming in? What does the directional airflow do? I feel like the bucket/bowl is so small, it's like, isn't the airflow just coming in all over the top?


I have found with a tiny dab it does very little, it really only applies to the big dabs that stay liquid in the bucket for a second to move the oil around :2c:
 

Armerad

Dabbin'
My Liger is not here yet (ordered Feb 10th), but my Terp Trunk arrived! I just wanted to chime in that it is beautifully constructed and creates an incredibly constrictive airflow path and seals truly airtight around the edges of my normal quartz enail banger. Definitely something to consider for folks looking to get an alternative and very restrictive cap.

Sorry if this is too off-topic, I know carb caps have been a topic of discussion for the Liger banger itself. Super excited for my Liger!
 

mrbonsai420

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
My Liger is not here yet (ordered Feb 10th), but my Terp Trunk arrived! I just wanted to chime in that it is beautifully constructed and creates an incredibly constrictive airflow path and seals truly airtight around the edges of my normal quartz enail banger. Definitely something to consider for folks looking to get an alternative and very restrictive cap.

Sorry if this is too off-topic, I know carb caps have been a topic of discussion for the Liger banger itself. Super excited for my Liger!

Very similar to the 43mm Redtail I have but maybe even slightly better, Looks nice! Is it big enough for the flat coil liger? I figured at least 43 mm works for the flat coil cap size.
 
mrbonsai420,
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6079Smith

Well-Known Member
+1 on the terp trunk, I like it a lot! Thanks for the link, @ItWasaGoodDre

I have a well functioning hurricane cap that's my dd but wanted to add some diversity and get something that weighed a bit less. I have to support the weight of the hurricane while on the bucket of my smaller rigs, so it's nice being able to take my hand off between draws and not have my banger tipsy. It offers slightly less constriction than the hurricane set to it's lowest and seals completely. Vapor production seems comparable to the hurricane, which is to say fantastic. Very pleased with it, it's flawless and functions well. Mine is 46mm wide, here it is sitting on a 20mm bucket with a lot of real estate left

RxOjDHX.jpg
 

toros23

Well-Known Member
+1 on the terp trunk, I like it a lot! Thanks for the link, @ItWasaGoodDre

I have a well functioning hurricane cap that's my dd but wanted to add some diversity and get something that weighed a bit less. I have to support the weight of the hurricane while on the bucket of my smaller rigs, so it's nice being able to take my hand off between draws and not have my banger tipsy. It offers slightly less constriction than the hurricane set to it's lowest and seals completely. Vapor production seems comparable to the hurricane, which is to say fantastic. Very pleased with it, it's flawless and functions well. Mine is 46mm wide, here it is sitting on a 20mm bucket with a lot of real estate left


Thanks for the pic, was considering one of these for my 20mm setup and this helps..

But what really caught my eye was the Baroni in the background.. Their nitrogen extracted hash rosin is pretty damn amazing.
 

FlyingLow

Team NO SLEEP!
Do inserts wear out or break often, how long can they last?

I absolutely love low temp quartz bangers but they fog and crust up so fast with heavy use. I replace every week or two, even with qtip tech...
 
FlyingLow,
Do inserts wear out or break often, how long can they last?

I absolutely love low temp quartz bangers but they fog and crust up so fast with heavy use. I replace every week or two, even with qtip tech...

You can clean the inserts with isos and qtips.
 
scalescliffs,

mrbonsai420

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
Do inserts wear out or break often, how long can they last?

I absolutely love low temp quartz bangers but they fog and crust up so fast with heavy use. I replace every week or two, even with qtip tech...


My 2 year old V1 is still a daily driver at my sisters house. They don't cloud up without torch cleaning really. Just clean with the dropper tech with iso and water and they will stay looking new for a very long time.
 

damm

Well-Known Member
Do inserts wear out or break often, how long can they last?

I absolutely love low temp quartz bangers but they fog and crust up so fast with heavy use. I replace every week or two, even with qtip tech...

Only thing i've ran into is make sure you q-tip afterwards to avoid it from polymerize ... I ran into this with some Rosin the other day i'm thinking a little salt and iso but I don't mind picking up a new insert as mine is still pretty new.

With the crust I can't remove I haven't found a degradation in flavor or anything; still amazing
 
damm,
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EVlL 55

Well-Known Member
...hello everyone...
Iv had the same Sic insert since I bought my v2 awhile ago w/ no real degradation,...I boil mine for about 10 minutes then run it thru a jewelry cleaner w/ very hot water and a little grunge off...comes out like new always....I use this method w/ the liger Ti as well....if the inserts not too bad....I reach for the torch.
.....i also prefer the v2 main body,head,and short tube over the single piece v3 male,...and 2 piece v3 female....I feel the airflow is much better....it feels fuller,...less airy....but it's more to clean and the v3's low profile Ti is nice to the eye...but to me it's a little restrictive and gets much hotter than the v2.....a drop down would always solve this but in all honesty I got the liger to ditch dropdowns and go straight to the joint.
The integrity of the percs in pieces are muted or manipulated of course once you start adding adapters and nails and dropdowns and things.....2 and 3 hole diffys benefit from this....it seems to "calm" they're chug....but more complex percs get lost in the mix iv found w/ the v3 bodies over the v2 bodies.
....but at the end of the day regardless of the piece or body I'm using its effects are undeniable....in a good way.
 
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herbivore21

Well-Known Member
My 2 year old V1 is still a daily driver at my sisters house. They don't cloud up without torch cleaning really. Just clean with the dropper tech with iso and water and they will stay looking new for a very long time.
This!

SiC can be torched with a butane torch as much as you like and it'll come up like new every time.

Sapphire should not be torched but qtipping will keep it nearly pristine. Anything else can be cleaned with an iso soaked rag (outside of the liger, when at room temperature!!!).

Quartz as Mrbonsai says above will not cloud up on an enail of any kind unless you torch clean it. Qtipping, iso cleaning, autoclave or ultrasonic cleaning or pressurized steam will all keep it looking as new.

All of this can be taken as general advice for all nails of the same materials :)
 
herbivore21,

Danksta

Well-Known Member
Only thing i've ran into is make sure you q-tip afterwards to avoid it from polymerize ... I ran into this with some Rosin the other day i'm thinking a little salt and iso but I don't mind picking up a new insert as mine is still pretty new.

With the crust I can't remove I haven't found a degradation in flavor or anything; still amazing

I turn my controller up to 1150-1200 to burn that stuff off. Back to brand new.
 
Danksta,

mrbonsai420

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
I turn my controller up to 1150-1200 to burn that stuff off. Back to brand new.

Have you tried the proper suggested methods from CCA specifically for the Liger?

IF you are using a Liger at least try the proper Liger cleaning tech before going high on the heat, that is going to make your parts wear out faster.

Try starting cold and turning your controller to 225 (sapphire)-250 (quartz and sic)

Then put a drop of ISO and qtip...Then a drop of distilled water and qtip... It may take 2 passes if it is really caked up BUT your insert will be PERFECT and exactly like new again without any wear and tear.

This is fool proof and you can't mess up with SiC or Quartz BUT BE VERY CAREFUL with Sapphire and only start from cold. Sapphire is much more prone to thermal shock and it may just be best not to risk it on that one and use dark crystal or something. But I use the dropper tech from cold up to 225 degrees on my sapphire and 250 on all others.
Try it and you will be amazed when you put the drop of water in the bucket how everything just flakes right off! Back to new.
 

Gn0sis

Well-Known Member
This is fool proof and you can't mess up with SiC or Quartz BUT BE VERY CAREFUL with Sapphire and only start from cold. Sapphire is much more prone to thermal shock and it may just be best not to risk it on that one and use dark crystal or something. But I use the dropper tech from cold up to 225 degrees on my sapphire and 250 on all others.


definitely better to be on the side of caution with the sapphire, but i have only ever done the dropper tek going from hot down to about 260F - 270F because i tend to get impatient with how slowly the water evaporates at 225. so far, no cracks.. my friend does the same on his sapphire insert as well.
 
Gn0sis,

Danksta

Well-Known Member
Have you tried the proper suggested methods from CCA specifically for the Liger?

IF you are using a Liger at least try the proper Liger cleaning tech before going high on the heat, that is going to make your parts wear out faster.

Try starting cold and turning your controller to 225 (sapphire)-250 (quartz and sic)

Then put a drop of ISO and qtip...Then a drop of distilled water and qtip... It may take 2 passes if it is really caked up BUT your insert will be PERFECT and exactly like new again without any wear and tear.

This is fool proof and you can't mess up with SiC or Quartz BUT BE VERY CAREFUL with Sapphire and only start from cold. Sapphire is much more prone to thermal shock and it may just be best not to risk it on that one and use dark crystal or something. But I use the dropper tech from cold up to 225 degrees on my sapphire and 250 on all others.
Try it and you will be amazed when you put the drop of water in the bucket how everything just flakes right off! Back to new.

For sapphire I did that trick for sure. But since SiC can be torched, I see no issue heating it up for a few minutes at 1150. I prefer this method as it gets all the stuff stuck to sides off that ISO never touches.

I also learned not to ISO soak SiC. I had to heat mine up to get all the ISO out.
 
Danksta,

papapotbelly

Well-Known Member
Now that we're on the Clean Machine with these last few posts, anyone got a good trick for getting the Krusties off of the Ti pieces without messing up the anodizing? Specifically, I get a ring of brown crust where my carb cap meets the bucket if I'm not diligent about wiping down the carb cap every few dabs. It's more of a stain so can't scrape it, but ISO does not lift it off. Ideas?
 
papapotbelly,
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