school me on making bubble

killick said:

@herbivore21 thanks for the advice! I assumed parchment would be ok based on the resin threads.

I got microplaning, and sieving, from bubbleman vids. Froze runs on cardboard, planed onto parchment, and everything seemed to come out dry. A bit harsh, but it's pretty new.

What would you suggest in place of parchment and planing? Sieving was a huge mess. I do have a 160 and 60 micron dry sift screens I was considering running through, possibly using a sander for agitation... I was also considering more porous matter, maybe a larger pressing cloth, just to give a little space for airflow between the drying surface and the bubble.

One of the great things about bubble (assumption anyways) is that, from here, you should be able to process it any way you like. Take the less melty runs and toss in budder with no filtering required. The melty grades should make great resin.

It's a great time to be alive

Ps - doing well here, thank you. It's fall, the apples are ready for picking, and the cool temps makes processing things easier. I trust all is going ok in your corner of the planet?

Click to expand...

Great to hear you're getting this opportunity bro, sorry I missed this reply! All is going well on my end thanks man

I look forward to hearing about your experiences after refining your tek as we've discussed in here. As for what to dry on your next post is on the money!

killick said:

So more digging suggests drying on glass, and chop finely to allow drying. I'm guessing adding very light airflow would probably help as well. This is different from the frozen patties on bubbleman vids, but still give it a shot and see what happens...

Click to expand...

Drying on glass is where it is at. I wouldn't do it any other way. You need to dry in a cool, dry room. The RH must be <55% to prevent mold and also to ensure that there is not too much moisture in the air which prevents adequate drying.

I would caution that NO DIRECT AIRFLOW should ever hit your hash while it is drying. You do not want to risk it. Anything that gets between the source of airflow and your hash is automatically dispersed/pushed in the direction of your drying hash - this is not good! Obviously if it is finer more granular hash it may blow around the place which is not helpful either. Airflow in the room itself is space where hash is drying is important, just make sure that nothing is blowing directly at your material.

BTW Please do provide pics, since Hashtag left it's been left up to my lonely self to handle the posting of hashy goodness

This is all sounding eminently doable. W live on the edge of a desert, RH isn't an issue.

For airflow I'm thinking very small, like an underpowered pc cooling fan. Just enough that I know there is slight air flow. Mold makes me want to be cautious.

Pix will come as soon as I get some that people won't laugh at. I'll post a couple of the 'lab' soon so y'all can have a giggle

The lab!


The low work bench



The devil's cabbage cardboard. 49 grams from 2 lbs of trim. Trim donated from a grower on the coast. He gives me trim, I give his sister meds for her arthritis, and keep the rest to use, donate, etc.

A Christmasy shot of the carnage...

Um...

@killick are you freaking kidding me?

This is the second time TODAY I have been struck with envy from an FC post!

Nice job!

Awesome awesome awesome! (And my wife would lose her freaking mind over the potted plants in the last pic - blue flowers here on the East Coast look like...well, not great like yours!)

Peace!

@OldOyler - thanks brother. It took awhile to get things organised. It takes a lot of prep work to potentially destroy 2 lbs of trim. But once you get started it's really not that tricky. It's helpful to have a set of hands to wash the bags out ASAP so they don't get sticky.

I'm glad I had trim to experiment with. I get 300 grams of bud every month, and am considering turning 200 into bubble each month.

Are there things to be aware of when processing quality material? Should buds be broken into small chunks, or should I just let the ice and cold water do the work?

killick said:

@OldOyler - thanks brother. It took awhile to get things organised. It takes a lot of prep work to potentially destroy 2 lbs of trim. But once you get started it's really not that tricky. It's helpful to have a set of hands to wash the bags out ASAP so they don't get sticky.

I'm glad I had trim to experiment with. I get 300 grams of bud every month, and am considering turning 200 into bubble each month.

Are there things to be aware of when processing quality material? Should buds be broken into small chunks, or should I just let the ice and cold water do the work?

Click to expand...

The buds should be broken into small pieces (Calyx by calyx is best). You can't rely on ice and water to eventually expose all the gland heads since especially denser varieties will just keep most of the heads inside that dense nug.

Great to see you having a blast man, takes me back to when I was learning and made this thread! Good times!

Here's another pic to keep the thread going this is a 2x snap (sorry for the grainy picture) of a 73u collection. Note that there are two distinct hashes from the same bag. The reason is that the later washes shake off the less mature resin which is more white with smaller crystals (5 star). The yellow-brown goo is the more mature resin in the early washes (6 star).

Thats a beauty shot! One thing I enjoy about hash photos is the depth and complexity of the end product. The little metallic sparkles are present in everything, and no matter what you look at there are more sparklie bits... Beautiful

Once I get some stuff coming out and looking reasonably good I have an urge to try a temple ball type of thing. I dunno why - probably just to see what one looks like IRL. Could this be the start of the newest 'worlds largest ball of string' type of award, but in the herbal category?

killick said:

Thats a beauty shot! One thing I enjoy about hash photos is the depth and complexity of the end product. The little metallic sparkles are present in everything, and no matter what you look at there are more sparklie bits... Beautiful

Once I get some stuff coming out and looking reasonably good I have an urge to try a temple ball type of thing. I dunno why - probably just to see what one looks like IRL. Could this be the start of the newest 'worlds largest ball of string' type of award, but in the herbal category?

Click to expand...

It is true man, it's why I went away from solvent processing a long time ago. Even rosin is something I don't do so often these days. If you can reliably produce high quality hash, you stop bothering with anything else. The flavor always has an extra element that you don't find in most other kinds of dabbable concentrate. The effects give a sense that other extracts are missing something too! Visually more than anything like you say though, full melt bubble and dry sift are so enjoyable to look at compared to just about anything else related to our favorite plant.

Funny you mention dry sift - I just pulled the trigger on 4 different sizes of mesh in 3 sq m rolls. I really have to say that I've found @herbivore21 posts and information quite inspirational over the past couple of years. I wandered into FC to find a decent vape (and I did, and 60 or 70 more!), then went off on some tangents when I discovered that concentrates were the answer for pain control.

I done a run or two with ISO, but the whole food grade solvent thing... Now I can make oil quickly, but the process requires a lot of heat, and some of the tastes with no heat extracts is amazing. So the leap into bubble wasn't quick, but it was bound to happen, given the avatar and all...

Anyways Herbie - thanks again for being you and doing what you do. The researcher/educator in you shows nicely and is more helpful in FC than you likely are aware. BZ. Thats how The Navy says Congrats & well done

killick said:

Funny you mention dry sift - I just pulled the trigger on 4 different sizes of mesh in 3 sq m rolls. I really have to say that I've found @herbivore21 posts and information quite inspirational over the past couple of years. I wandered into FC to find a decent vape (and I did, and 60 or 70 more!), then went off on some tangents when I discovered that concentrates were the answer for pain control.

I done a run or two with ISO, but the whole food grade solvent thing... Now I can make oil quickly, but the process requires a lot of heat, and some of the tastes with no heat extracts is amazing. So the leap into bubble wasn't quick, but it was bound to happen, given the avatar and all...

Anyways Herbie - thanks again for being you and doing what you do. The researcher/educator in you shows nicely and is more helpful in FC than you likely are aware. BZ. Thats how The Navy says Congrats & well done

Click to expand...

Oh man this is great to hear! I still need to get me some good sift screens! I use bubblebags for sifting too but it is very cumbersome - can produce outstanding melty meds still but it is messy lol - Can't wait to see how your sift turns out too

I'm so happy to see that you've benefited so much from what I've shared here - and especially appreciate the compliments as an educator (by the way, you taught me something new by defining BZ for me )! It is so wonderful to see you find a way to make great solventless medicine and especially produce for others in a way that helps to provide your own medicine! That is genuine relief, effective healthcare that pays for itself! I wish the same were possible everywhere without fear of the law

I look forward to seeing plenty more bubble pics from you around these parts my friend. It has been lonely for a hashmaker around here since Hashtag left! He needs credit here too (also Frenchy Cannoli before him) since he taught me some crucial basic points in bubble making which took my early technique up a few notches and then some!

Peace all!

I wanted it to be clear that your class here on the school-me thread also has some... slower students...

I laughed, because I have several weeks until I have material, but your recent pics got me excited to get as far as I could to prepare which meant...open the equipment box I ordered, recognize a 5-gallon bucket of course, then...

Scare the crap out of myself with a whole pile of very bright bags.

Yeah, I best begin reading up. And repeatedly. (Yeah I covered the brand, not because they're cheap, which they are - I think it's iPower - but because there's another un-stealthy name tagged on every darn bag)

But I'm saying thanks for the thread, I am preparing for my finals!

Peace and good things to all!

OldOyler said:

Peace all!

Scare the crap out of myself with a whole pile of very bright bags.

Yeah, I best begin reading up. And repeatedly. (Yeah I covered the brand, not because they're cheap, which they are - I think it's iPower - but because there's another un-stealthy name tagged on every darn bag)

But I'm saying thanks for the thread, I am preparing for my finals!

Peace and good things to all!

Click to expand...

YaY! Another n00bie! Welcome brother - feel free to fire away and Qs you might have - maybe we can have your tek down solid before you start loading ice?

Things to consider -
I had a couple of clean baking sheets handy for tool rests and such - a clean place to put things down when in a rush. And there isn't really ever a rush, but it's nice to have a clean space for tools.

In lieu of glass for drying I've picked up a few large aluminum foil baking trays. Temp measure until I find the right glass trays.

Silicon spatulas work great for collecting stuff, but are sometimes awkward, so I now have a large soupspoon handy.

I went out and got some brewing carboys, and filled them with RO water to use for extraction. I probably wouldn't use city water, but thats just me. We're on a well here, but there is a bit of dissolved solids and such, so cleaner water is more to my liking.

If you are lacking a spare set of hands for cleaning bags I'm thinking a spare bucket of water is a safe place to stash them until they can be rinsed. If they get dry they could be very hard to clean. Can anyone validate this?

Don't be nervous - be excited

OldOyler said:

Peace all!

I wanted it to be clear that your class here on the school-me thread also has some... slower students...

I laughed, because I have several weeks until I have material, but your recent pics got me excited to get as far as I could to prepare which meant...open the equipment box I ordered, recognize a 5-gallon bucket of course, then...

Scare the crap out of myself with a whole pile of very bright bags.

Yeah, I best begin reading up. And repeatedly. (Yeah I covered the brand, not because they're cheap, which they are - I think it's iPower - but because there's another un-stealthy name tagged on every darn bag)

But I'm saying thanks for the thread, I am preparing for my finals!

Peace and good things to all!

Click to expand...

Looking like you're getting well prepared my friend! Make sure to have a nice big glass surface (or several smaller ones) to dry your collection on.

Stainless steel serving spoons are ideal for collecting from bags as killick has realized. Do not use silicone in contact with bubble before it is fully dried (even then i avoid it altogether). It can end very badly.

killick said:

YaY! Another n00bie! Welcome brother - feel free to fire away and Qs you might have - maybe we can have your tek down solid before you start loading ice?

Things to consider -
I had a couple of clean baking sheets handy for tool rests and such - a clean place to put things down when in a rush. And there isn't really ever a rush, but it's nice to have a clean space for tools.

In lieu of glass for drying I've picked up a few large aluminum foil baking trays. Temp measure until I find the right glass trays.

Silicon spatulas work great for collecting stuff, but are sometimes awkward, so I now have a large soupspoon handy.

I went out and got some brewing carboys, and filled them with RO water to use for extraction. I probably wouldn't use city water, but thats just me. We're on a well here, but there is a bit of dissolved solids and such, so cleaner water is more to my liking.

If you are lacking a spare set of hands for cleaning bags I'm thinking a spare bucket of water is a safe place to stash them until they can be rinsed. If they get dry they could be very hard to clean. Can anyone validate this?

Don't be nervous - be excited

Click to expand...

Clean water is majorly important as Killick says. Aluminum trays can work but be careful with much stickier hash (wet full melt is stickier than most things) that you dont end up scraping bits of aluminum into it - this won't be such a problem with less sticky, less melty hash.

Placing the bags in water is good if you do not have someone to help clean the bags. The screens of the bags (ONLY!) MUST be rinsed with iso, then thoroughly with water until there is no iso smell. No iso use will leave resin gunking up your screens and fucking up your future runs. I dont know why somw suggest that using only water can work for cleaning bags between runs - it really doesn't get the job done no matter how much pressure or scrubbing is applied ime.

Leaving bags in water will assist in the resin not getting too dried onto the screen and make things easier when you iso rinse them later, but the main thing is to remember that iso is always necessary. Every bag. Every wash. Every run.

I ideally prefer stainless steel surfaces for leaving spoons and such on. They can be easily cleaned using some judicious application of heat and solvent. I definitely do not recommend use of baking paper or any kind of parchment or silicone for implements with wet hash on them. Especially much stickier full melt is liable to be lost, enmeshed with these surfaces in a sticky mess.

Loving the activity around here and looking forward to seeing more bubble from each of you guys

Silicone - should be absolutely fine for solventless extractions, no?
Aluminum - good point. I'm ultimately aiming for 7 pyrex trays, but will save the glass I have for the melty bags.

On the first two runs I flipped the bags inside out to extract (also got a couple of old butter knives, with the curved blade and offset handle), dipped the bag in the bucket of water to pull more heads, and then gave the bag a good blast of pressure from the inside-out, followed by a good blast of pressure everywhere, and then air dry. They *seem* to be fine, but will get a bunch of ISO tomorrow (we can get it on sale for $2/litre. I should get a shopping cart full...)

So to rinse in ISO I'm probably going to use a frame to keep the bag stretched, then dunk that in a thin layer of ISO til clean. Maybe a slight brush with a nylon bristled something.

Weather is getting colder. The ski hill 25 km up the road has had snow several times, but it's not making it down hill yet. Great weather for keeping water colder

killick said:

Silicone - should be absolutely fine for solventless extractions, no?
Aluminum - good point. I'm ultimately aiming for 7 pyrex trays, but will save the glass I have for the melty bags.

On the first two runs I flipped the bags inside out to extract (also got a couple of old butter knives, with the curved blade and offset handle), dipped the bag in the bucket of water to pull more heads, and then gave the bag a good blast of pressure from the inside-out, followed by a good blast of pressure everywhere, and then air dry. They *seem* to be fine, but will get a bunch of ISO tomorrow (we can get it on sale for $2/litre. I should get a shopping cart full...)

So to rinse in ISO I'm probably going to use a frame to keep the bag stretched, then dunk that in a thin layer of ISO til clean. Maybe a slight brush with a nylon bristled something.

Weather is getting colder. The ski hill 25 km up the road has had snow several times, but it's not making it down hill yet. Great weather for keeping water colder

Click to expand...

Great idea using a frame to keep the bag stretched when washing the bag in iso Best to avoid any other part of the bag being in contact with the iso for long, I find different brands are better or worse for this. I can vouch for bubblebags standing up to iso cleaning for very long periods of time with no damage or wear. I know that Frenchy Cannoli vouches for Boldt Bags being safe for iso cleaning too.

I started out spraying bags with pressure and even using steam and various other approaches for a while before I realized that when you start really churning out full melt, iso is an absolute must as frequently as I suggest above.

When every bag you collect after your first catch bag is full melt for at least the first 5 washes, you quickly see how plastered over those pores are in the screen with sticky resin. Full melt is often super sticky, especially when a little water is left in it - much stickier with non-stick stuff than rosin or solvent extracts even!

This brings us to my concerns re: silicone. I have seen full melt with a little residual moisture get so stuck to silicone surfaces that to remove it genuine risks scraping part of the silicone with it! I do not recommend the use of silicone with any kind of particularly melty hash. You may not notice this problem with less melty hash. When I was first starting out and not producing full melt in any large quantities, I did not experience these problems and used some silicone storage here and there.

Parchments will also become one with slightly wet hash and very melty/sticky hash to an even greater extent. I find this to be true of parchments with high silicone content (ie: Slick Wrap) and traditional parchments alike.

That cold weather will be wonderful for keeping things cool too, and everybody should be working in as cold a space as possible when running their bubble (look at the 'class' numbers growing in this thread lol ). Also as dry as possible is preferable (in terms of relative humidity). This can be challenging as there is obviously a lot of water being used in the processing!

Peace all!

killick said:

YaY! Another n00bie! Welcome brother - feel free to fire away and Qs you might have - maybe we can have your tek down solid before you start loading ice?

Click to expand...

Ha, yes I am super pumped. @FlyingLow got me started on some mild bravery, I follow herbivore all around, and so I'm off!

Let me noob it up, feels good because it's *honest*!

I guess I really want to ask a couple of noob questions, and give the framework for what I can handle in all the information.

I heard long ago "Handle the gift of information like the gift of some good tomatoes. Eat what you can, then can the rest for later!"



My couple of primary fears are overwhelming my ability to keep a cool head and hear the more subtle stuff.

My setup for the next 6 months is a Tocan Torch with dual quartz, it is listed at running right above 500F, and I have glass bubbler for it. I will be making at least 2-3 bubble runs during that time. Noob question - I assume my rig can vape this resulting bubble no problem, any tweaks? (Getting a D-Nail next year) I don't mind iso'ing stuff, but like my co2 wax I can vape a dozen grams in my Torch before it would even look like it was ready to need to be cleaned, let alone retired. I can deal with needing to clean after 2 grams or something. Wondering if I am in a fantasy about it...

I am worried a lot about maximum yield, 10g dry starting high-quality trim and bud mix to 1g resulting vapeable bubble is the threshold I would like to be able to hit. (I'll be doing one to two ounce starting material runs.) I stopped shatter making as I was getting up around 12 or 14 to 1. Does this sound reasonable, or am I totally missing an expectation?

Finally, it seems I really need like 4 of the 8 screens, the 200+ one and maybe 3 others? I want to just combine ALL the resulting bubble scrapings into one finished bunch. Not advanced enough to keep various grades. So which ones should I use (screens I mean)?

I have lots of glass to spread stuff out on from my qwet equipment, pyrex pie plates and dishes, etc. Had no idea I need to karate chop it when done. That caused a bead of sweat...

Also, minimum washes? I'd like to do ONE if possible. Like, if this is like qwet, and there's only like 10% goodies left after the first 15-20 minute water wash? Then screw it I'm dumping at that point.

One last note, this will be my primary usage supply so it won't need any extended storage or anything yet. Those darn hash ball pictures you all posted are haunting the crap out of me...!

That's all I can think of.

Thanks in humility, in advance.

Peace all!

Peace all,

Too late for edit on last one.

After studying our thread yet again (on read number 8 or 9) I have decided for bags to go with:

200 - work bag
190 - other half of my work bag (only using one bucket, I'm not graceful so doing like a double work bag)
160 - contaminant bag
73 - money bag
45 - curious what it looks like bag

Now, still wondering on - can I do this in one wash, if not how much is still left, and the other stuff from my previous post - all still has me stumped.

Thanks, and as always peace and good things to all!

While not intended as such, a guide on how to make bubble hash (The paper uses "enriched trichome preparation" because it is doing it for scientific and not recreation purposes.) can be found at http://www.gwpharm.com/uploads/finalfullthesisdjpotter.pdf

If you read the whole thing (Skipping the legal parts and focusing on the science.), you will learn exactly why you do each step. In Chap. 4, he shows different techniques to get different results. His research was:
With the goal(s) of:

Then he scienced the heck out of it.

OldNewbie said:

While not intended as such, a guide on how to make bubble hash (The paper uses "enriched trichome preparation" because it is doing it for scientific and not recreation purposes.) can be found at http://www.gwpharm.com/uploads/finalfullthesisdjpotter.pdf

If you read the whole thing (Skipping the legal parts and focusing on the science.), you will learn exactly why you do each step. In Chap. 4, he shows different techniques to get different results. His research was:

In one method, cannabis material is simply agitated in cold water and the dislodged capitate stalked trichomes collected using sieves. Jansen and Terris (2002) reported that, with a Dutch Government subsidy, this technique had been adapted to make hashish for pharmaceutical research purposes. Separation of capitate stalked and sessile trichomes was not reported. For the remainder of this thesis, the terms hashish and resin are avoided when referring to products made for scientific as opposed to recreational purposes. The term enriched trichome preparation (ETP) is preferred. As well as the cannabinoids, most of the monoterpenes and sesquiterpenes found in Cannabis are also located in the glandular trichomes (Malingré, et al., 1975; Turner et al., 1980). These are generally present in much smaller quantities than the cannabinoids, and this hinders their detailed study. Studies of the terpene content of cannabis trichomes are few and have involved the steam distillation of intact cannabis tissue as the source material (Mediavilla and Steinemann, 1997). The bulk collection of intact cannabis trichomes would clearly facilitate more detailed terpenoid analysis by providing a richer source of material for analysis. To enable this to happen, research was needed to assess the feasibility of removing and then segregating large quantities of intact glandular trichomes from cannabis. A number of techniques have been employed to remove intact glandular trichomes from other species. These have been reviewed by Wagner et al. (2004). Techniques included removal of individual trichomes with forceps, shaking in aqueous solution with an abrasive (e.g. sand, fine glass beads or powdered dry ice) and the gentle brushing of fresh or frozen tissue. In some cases different trichome forms have subsequently been separated by sieving and/or centrifugation, e.g. separation of bulbous and peltate trichomes of sweet basil Ocimum basilicum (Gang et al., 2001). All these collection methods produce extremely small trichome samples. In contrast, removal of glandular trichomes on an industrial scale is currently performed in the hop (Humulus lupulus) industry. By agitating plant material in extreme cold temperatures, the sessile glandular trichomes (known commercially as lupulin) are dislodged and separated from the plant (Rigby, 2000). The previous chapter confirmed the findings (Ledbetter and Krikorian, 1975) that the four types of glandular trichome found in Cannabis, namely bulbous, capitate sessile, antherial sessile and capitate stalked, had diameters of approximately 10 µm, 50 µm, 80 µm and 100 µm respectively. Based on their comparative spherical dimensions a bulbous trichome would have a potential secondary metabolite content approximately one hundred and twenty five times less than that of a capitate sessile trichome. Previous workers have expressed difficulties in working with bulbous trichomes because of their small size, and evidence for the existence of cannabinoids in these trichomes is lacking. Regular observations of bulbous trichome populations, while studying other trichome forms for this thesis, suggested that the population densities of bulbous trichomes were similar to those of sessile trichomes. This supported the observation of previous researchers (Turner et al.,1978; Mahlberg et al., 1984). This, combined with the minute size, suggests that bulbous trichome contribute little to the overall secondary metabolite content of cannabis. Bulbous trichomes were not studied further for this thesis.
​

With the goal(s) of:

4.2.1. To collect and separate intact capitate stalked and sessile glandular trichomes from fresh floral material.
4.2.2. To isolate intact sessile glandular trichomes from vegetative material.
4.2.3. To collect sessile trichomes from foliage of a high-CBC chemotype as a means of isolating the minor cannabinoid CBC
4.2.4. To examine the ontogenetic changes in terpenoid content of glandular trichomes during plant maturation.​

Then he scienced the heck out of it.

Click to expand...

Hadn't seen this one for a while, but actually Skunkman Sam mentioned this work on Hash Church in one of the recent episodes too!

Very interesting reading, I wish that this was what I did my PhD on, so much more enjoyable research!

There is some wonderful description of the contents of the inside of the glandular stalked trichome heads under higher magnification than I can achieve here! Definitely worth a look!

I know there are a few posts to catch up on here for myself but I am very busy with my scholarly work myself just now.

I wish I could help with the Qs, but I'm still fumbling around. I'm using all the bags, although I'm not sure why yet. A couple of the bags came out light and fluffy, and I'm assuming this is the 'full melt' stuff (which included the 93 bag).

So I'm still playing around with my first batch, but will be doing another run soon. I did two runs last tiem (fresh material in both). The challenge I have is I get a set amount of herb each month, so I separate into 'how do I run it this month' activities. Right now I have 150 grams in the freezer with some alcohol and am going to do an alcohol extraction. Was recently gifted a lb of fresh herb as well, so thats curing in the garage and will probably become bubble, although it's really tasty mid-cure (I sound so cool using all these terms I don't understand - I know how to cure thanks to the web

OldOyler said:

Peace all!


Ha, yes I am super pumped. @FlyingLow got me started on some mild bravery, I follow herbivore all around, and so I'm off!

Let me noob it up, feels good because it's *honest*!

I guess I really want to ask a couple of noob questions, and give the framework for what I can handle in all the information.

I heard long ago "Handle the gift of information like the gift of some good tomatoes. Eat what you can, then can the rest for later!"



My couple of primary fears are overwhelming my ability to keep a cool head and hear the more subtle stuff.

My setup for the next 6 months is a Tocan Torch with dual quartz, it is listed at running right above 500F, and I have glass bubbler for it. I will be making at least 2-3 bubble runs during that time. Noob question - I assume my rig can vape this resulting bubble no problem, any tweaks? (Getting a D-Nail next year) I don't mind iso'ing stuff, but like my co2 wax I can vape a dozen grams in my Torch before it would even look like it was ready to need to be cleaned, let alone retired. I can deal with needing to clean after 2 grams or something. Wondering if I am in a fantasy about it...

I am worried a lot about maximum yield, 10g dry starting high-quality trim and bud mix to 1g resulting vapeable bubble is the threshold I would like to be able to hit. (I'll be doing one to two ounce starting material runs.) I stopped shatter making as I was getting up around 12 or 14 to 1. Does this sound reasonable, or am I totally missing an expectation?

Finally, it seems I really need like 4 of the 8 screens, the 200+ one and maybe 3 others? I want to just combine ALL the resulting bubble scrapings into one finished bunch. Not advanced enough to keep various grades. So which ones should I use (screens I mean)?

I have lots of glass to spread stuff out on from my qwet equipment, pyrex pie plates and dishes, etc. Had no idea I need to karate chop it when done. That caused a bead of sweat...

Also, minimum washes? I'd like to do ONE if possible. Like, if this is like qwet, and there's only like 10% goodies left after the first 15-20 minute water wash? Then screw it I'm dumping at that point.

One last note, this will be my primary usage supply so it won't need any extended storage or anything yet. Those darn hash ball pictures you all posted are haunting the crap out of me...!

That's all I can think of.

Thanks in humility, in advance.

Peace all!

Click to expand...

Holy shit I'm glad this post was made, brother I forgot you are using a pen atm, actually I do not recommend using full melt with typical pen carts (quartz/ceramic 'wick' with a coil wrapped around it). The reason is that the material in the outer membrane of the secretory cavity of the resin gland (this is the main bulbous membrane filled with the crude essential oil) as well as the secretory cells in the base of the gland will leave you some residue that is not essential oil. This is the 'full melt residue' we all know and love (the reason I say love is full melt residue qtips straight off of a nail much more easily than residue from oil).

This stuff builds up between your coils and wicks and is very difficult to clean. I can tell you that using solvents, steam and whatever you have in your arsenal won't make a dent in this residue caught between the coils over time and your carts will end up unusable over extended use.

However, this is not necessarily a problem. I am sure you have a flower vape or two on hand? I often find that flower vapes are the best portables for full melt, better than oil pens which really are designed for filtered extractions rather than whole resin glands.

Let me know of any flower vapes you might have and I'll let you know of the best ways to use full melt with it.

For yields, from a high resin producing variety if you have high quality trim as you say, then your estimates might be accurate - that would be the most fortunate yield I've heard of from a trim run though. I find very high variation. I will say that honestly though, you can easily expect 1-5% yields from trim and up to 10% max yield from flower. Remember, not all of the active compounds are found in the resin glands, just most of them - ain't no 20% yields happening in this thread!

This means that depending on the quality of your trim, you could expect between .1g and 1g of hash overall. This does also depend on how much you keep running the material. I will say that I find that many washes are required to get all of the goods out of flowers, up to 15-20 of them in one run! This is washing until the point of diminishing returns too, not exhaustive washing until absolutely nothing comes through anymore. Bubble running is quite a bit of physical labor!

You can take this down to almost half that when running trim. I will also suggest that a mixture of high quality trim and flower like you mentioned would be more likely to get towards 5% yield. A couple of zips will give you a good usable yield, especially if flowers rather than trim.

Cutting down your workload is best done with removal of redundant bags, but I need to highlight that the first time you run any material, you should use every bag.

The reason being you can better assess the size of resin glands on your material this way and afterwards decide which bags are necessary and which aren't. I never use a 90 micron bag for example, my 73 and 90 are always full melt, every wash - no sense in doing two collections when I enjoy combining the tastes of the different sized trichomes.

OldOyler said:

Peace all,

Too late for edit on last one.

After studying our thread yet again (on read number 8 or 9) I have decided for bags to go with:

200 - work bag
190 - other half of my work bag (only using one bucket, I'm not graceful so doing like a double work bag)
160 - contaminant bag
73 - money bag
45 - curious what it looks like bag

Now, still wondering on - can I do this in one wash, if not how much is still left, and the other stuff from my previous post - all still has me stumped.

Thanks, and as always peace and good things to all!

Click to expand...

I would suggest that you should definitely get a 120 bag and a 25 bag and cut out the 190. I don't use double work bags myself! My 25 micron is always full melt or 4.5 star. 120u bags are crucial because this bag is usually the middle point between 'catch bags' and 'money bags'. Also if you get 120u full melt, that is gonna be some fire (super mature resin glands with potential for insane sesquiterpene content) and you wanna keep that separate! Definitely don't wanna wash that down the drain!!

killick said:

I wish I could help with the Qs, but I'm still fumbling around. I'm using all the bags, although I'm not sure why yet. A couple of the bags came out light and fluffy, and I'm assuming this is the 'full melt' stuff (which included the 93 bag).

So I'm still playing around with my first batch, but will be doing another run soon. I did two runs last tiem (fresh material in both). The challenge I have is I get a set amount of herb each month, so I separate into 'how do I run it this month' activities. Right now I have 150 grams in the freezer with some alcohol and am going to do an alcohol extraction. Was recently gifted a lb of fresh herb as well, so thats curing in the garage and will probably become bubble, although it's really tasty mid-cure (I sound so cool using all these terms I don't understand - I know how to cure thanks to the web

Click to expand...

Ohh I am very interested to see these final dried yields brother! Please do share pics when you get a moment

Great idea curing material for bubble, I find this gives best results BTW are your monthly limits due to legal limits for medical in your location?

As a med patient in Canada I get my prescription, 10 g/day, shipped monthly. So I have 300 grams of LP bud to convert to another form. LP, for Licenced Producer, produce and sell oils and concentrates, but Veterans Affairs doesn't cover that cost, so we make our own concentrates. Or try. Some interesting oopsie moments, but once you find a place like FC things get a lot easier

I've been slow trying bubble as I wasn't sure how much product I'd destroy. I now know I'm not going to destroyer anything, but the first time is always a bit twitchy for me. Enter a friend of a friend who runs a med grow a few hours away, and his gift of two lbs of trim (purple candy and green crack), which was my first attempt. 53 grams from 2 lbs. One wash of 1 lb each.

I gunked several coils to black concrete, so thanks for the description and how to use advice! I've been putting a layer on a herb sandwich in Milaana with great success. I also have been filling up the Yocan Torch, which will need a good iso soak...

Next up - rosin plates... Why are plates just as expensive when they don't have a press attached to them?

I want to try my hand at a press with a flat lower plate and a curved upper and try a 'rolling press'... But I'll take most anything really...

herbivore21 said:

you can easily expect 1-5% yields from trim and up to 10% max yield from flower.

Click to expand...

Peace all!

Ah herbivore21 my friend, you are always very patient with me - especially when I ask the same questions repeatedly because i don't "hear" the answer (because I don't like it most likely)!

Yes, that return rate will be too low for me. I could overcome some of the physical issues (entire left side of body doesn't work, extreme recluse so not getting anybody over to stir and pour, stir and pour buckets for me) with some tek like a bubble machine I think.

But...no harm no foul on my "excitement before complete understanding resulting in $ spent" since I will keep the nice set of bags and the bucket for a later time.

Off to the Concentrates for Noobs thread to fix my original reason for looking at bubble anyway, I was having qwet purge problems.

I think I can get that problem solved for similar $ on tek in an area I already feel pretty comfortable in.

Everyone my extreme thanks, and peace! Can't wait to feel the extreme envy on everyone's results, especially now that I see just how fine an art bubble-making really is!

OldOyler said:

Peace all!

Ah herbivore21 my friend, you are always very patient with me - especially when I ask the same questions repeatedly because i don't "hear" the answer (because I don't like it most likely)!

Yes, that return rate will be too low for me. I could overcome some of the physical issues (entire left side of body doesn't work, extreme recluse so not getting anybody over to stir and pour, stir and pour buckets for me) with some tek like a bubble machine I think.

But...no harm no foul on my "excitement before complete understanding resulting in $ spent" since I will keep the nice set of bags and the bucket for a later time.

Off to the Concentrates for Noobs thread to fix my original reason for looking at bubble anyway, I was having qwet purge problems.

I think I can get that problem solved for similar $ on tek in an area I already feel pretty comfortable in.

Everyone my extreme thanks, and peace! Can't wait to feel the extreme envy on everyone's results, especially now that I see just how fine an art bubble-making really is!

Click to expand...

It's all good brother, it is important for educational purposes to appreciate that people do not magically remember every single one of the many words that I say the first time!

Where time allows, anybody asking a sincere question in a polite fashion as you do deserves a patient and considered response in my books

I definitely understand the issue with yields and man any limited mobility is especially relevant so I agree you probably are best at this stage to use solvents until you can do rosin. Don't worry though, you know I've got your back with assistance on accomplishing this too What are FC friends for otherwise?

killick said:

As a med patient in Canada I get my prescription, 10 g/day, shipped monthly. So I have 300 grams of LP bud to convert to another form. LP, for Licenced Producer, produce and sell oils and concentrates, but Veterans Affairs doesn't cover that cost, so we make our own concentrates. Or try. Some interesting oopsie moments, but once you find a place like FC things get a lot easier

I've been slow trying bubble as I wasn't sure how much product I'd destroy. I now know I'm not going to destroyer anything, but the first time is always a bit twitchy for me. Enter a friend of a friend who runs a med grow a few hours away, and his gift of two lbs of trim (purple candy and green crack), which was my first attempt. 53 grams from 2 lbs. One wash of 1 lb each.

I gunked several coils to black concrete, so thanks for the description and how to use advice! I've been putting a layer on a herb sandwich in Milaana with great success. I also have been filling up the Yocan Torch, which will need a good iso soak...

Next up - rosin plates... Why are plates just as expensive when they don't have a press attached to them?

I want to try my hand at a press with a flat lower plate and a curved upper and try a 'rolling press'... But I'll take most anything really...

Click to expand...

Man it is so important for folks to know that even full melt is not ideal for use with vape pen carts as I mention above - I do apologise that I didn't think to mention it sooner - could have saved you some concreted carts!

It was wise to not use prime flower in your first attempt and very fortunate indeed to get your hands on that trim Everybody should heed what Killick says here - DO NOT LEARN AN EXTRACTION METHOD FOR THE FIRST TIME USING YOUR BEST MATERIAL! Teething problems that happen when learning anything new might leave you with a very bad taste in your mouth (multiple entendres intended)!

Herb sandwiches are good in flower vapes like you say and I know my brother Hashtag preferred this method of consumption even with full melt! I enjoy this myself from time to time. It tends to give you a bowl that tastes just like flowers, only stronger and with a much more potent effect and clouds for days

Prices of rosin plates are quite a PITA and apparently Joel W. doesn't do them atm which is a shame - big props to him for his work all the same though, love those plates!

One thing I will say though is that I 100% prefer to vaporize less melty bubble hash as is than to squish it into rosin. You simply lose some of the flavor and effect from <5 star bubble when you press it into rosin

So the vape shop guy has some sort of mix that you warm up and can drop shatter in to make ejuice. So we warmed some up and I put 1/2 teaspoon of 73u dry sift in, stirred a bit, and ran through a coffee filter. Buddy gave me a demo tank and new coil (these are demo units and he can't get replacement coils, so a freebie!)...

Anyhoo, to make a long story short - I'm not a huge fan of PG/VG mix, finding it a little alien somehow. Having said that I think one can get too stoned with this contraption. Or maybe it's just me, but it's giving me a boot to the head, metaphorically...

Back to the lab

killick said:

So the vape shop guy has some sort of mix that you warm up and can drop shatter in to make ejuice. So we warmed some up and I put 1/2 teaspoon of 73u dry sift in, stirred a bit, and ran through a coffee filter. Buddy gave me a demo tank and new coil (these are demo units and he can't get replacement coils, so a freebie!)...

Anyhoo, to make a long story short - I'm not a huge fan of PG/VG mix, finding it a little alien somehow. Having said that I think one can get too stoned with this contraption. Or maybe it's just me, but it's giving me a boot to the head, metaphorically...

Back to the lab

Click to expand...

lol yeah I don't condone VG/PG at all, we don't need to bring their carcinogen polymerization byproducts into the mix, especially when we're going to the effort of making high quality, low yield solventless extracts!

I understand the alien feeling you speak about, there's a lingering restriction of the airways from ejuice that one doesn't seem to get from vaporizing cannabis.