Discontinued The Grasshopper

Kfirrer

Well-Known Member
There are several packaging types of this stuff; spray, squeeze-tube, brush-on... I guess the spray is out (derp!). How have you applied this, just brush it on and wipe off? And it never builds up?

My only experience with contact cleaners have been the blue stuff kind when I used to repair rotary channel switches on old TV's. Remember those, kids?


I use the pen type.
You simply `paint` the threads with the pen... I don`t have any build up but i always wipe clean and than apply the suff.
 

JoeMama

Well-Known Member
After looking into this some more it seems like a great product. I've added this tip to the Fixes resource: http://fuckcombustion.com/resources/grasshopper-fixes.11/

I love this place :)

Alright, sorry to drill down further on this stuff, but this is excerpted (edited for ease of reading) from

https://www.amazon.com/DeoxITGOLD-L...F8&qid=1470852042&sr=8-4&keywords=deoxit+gold

DeoxIT GOLD Liquid, brush applicator 100 percent solution 7.4 mL. DeoxIT GOLD G100L Brush Applicator (formerly ProGold), 100 percent solution, 7.4 mL (Applications = 500 +/- brush strokes, 10mm long) DeoxIT Gold G-Series - Contact Enhancer, Conditioner & Protector (formerly ProGold) DeoxIT Gold (formerly ProGold), is a unique conditioning solution that improves conductivity and provides long-lasting protection on gold, base metals and other precious metal contacts and connections (gold, silver, rhodium, copper, bronze, nickel, etc.). Use on plated connectors, contacts and metal surfaces for maximum performance and protection. Recommended for critical applications where only slight cleaning action is necessary. If the surface looks clean, applying DeoxIT D-Series contact cleaner first is usually not necessary. DeoxIT Gold is designed to dissolve small amounts of oxidation.

THEN:
Apply DeoxIT Gold after DeoxIT D-Series contact cleaner on plated metal surfaces (Are the Hopper contacts plated?). The more critical the connection or part, especially low current applications, DeoxIT Gold should be the final step. For reference, DeoxIT Gold has approximately 0.5 percent cleaning action. KEY FEATURES: Improves Conductivity Maintains Optimum Signal Quality Protects Base Metals from Oxidation Prevents Dendrite and Fretting Corrosion Forms Protective Anti-Tarnishing Layer Reduces Arcing, RFI and Intermittent Connections Reduces Wear and Abrasion Temperature Range, -45 C to +240 C DeoxIT D-Series - Contact Cleaner & Rejuvenator - Brings Old Systems Back to Life!

I hope I'm not being too natty, but I'm not sure if the DeoxIT Gold or the DeoxIT D-Series is the one to use....

Methinks this may be more universally applied (it doesn't seem to care if the contacts are plated or not)
https://www.amazon.com/Booster-Elec...ie=UTF8&qid=1470855209&sr=8-3&keywords=deoxit
 

delloy

Well-Known Member
The link you posted above is for the DeoxIT D-Series as mentioned above. From what I can make out the D Series cleans the contact and then to protect and improve the connection they then recommend you apply the Gold after. Im gonna get some in and apply both as per their recommendation. Will report back on results.
 
Last edited:

vapviking

Old & In the Way
I had the same loose screen problem as you. It kept returning until I got tweezers to tighten it. HUGE difference between tightening the screen with a single point and having 2 points of contact, which provides much better leverage.

The first time I tightened the screen with a single pointed tool, it loosened again pretty quickly. When I tightened it with tweezers, it stayed in place.

Try it, you'll like it.
Okay, looks like I'm off to CVS for tweezers!
Thank you.
 

JoeMama

Well-Known Member
The link you posted above is for the DeoxIT D-Series as mentioned above. From what I can make out the D Series cleans the contact and then to protect and improve the connection they then recommend you apply the Gold after. Im gonna get some in and apply both as per their recommendation. Will report back on results.
I've just spoken with CAIG, who makes the DetoxIT product.

The Gold is a gentler clean (much lower % solvent), and yes, it can be used afterwards, but its benefit is only if the contacts are plated... it's to help keep plating from tarnishing. If the contacts are not plated, then it's not really doing anything of benefit, she says.

FWIW!
 

akwardsauce

gold all in my chains...dont believe me just watch
I get about 10 hits on temp 4, and little visible vapor below temp 3, so those aren't too different from normal I believe.

I can get decent clouds with a 5 second pull, definite thick visible vapor. Any convection vaporizer will give you bigger clouds the longer you pull. If you have to pull 15-20 seconds it sounds like something might be wrong.

I usually hit my hopper for 20 seconds or more but I've timed 5-10 second hits and got decent clouds.
I do the same thing at temp 3 1/2 -4 on the dial. The only problem is i dont get that rush of heat until about 20 seconds of pulling and it has to be a really hard pull. I have had friends try mine with 0 results at all bc they dont pull that hard.
i really want you guys to try the pulse inhaling method...
yesterday i went to go see suicide squad (which i actually liked) and either my technique is better or my gh is better...ive been hitting it the pulse way and it avoids getting a eye-watering hit that makes you cough a lot. what i do is click it on, take a short breath, hold, and exhale (if its the priming hits, i dont hold it). i dont click off until i have had a good 2-3 short pulse type hits. think of it like coaxing vape out of an old school mflb, but without the delay...lot more stealthier on the exhale and the vapor doesnt explode in my lungs while i try to battle it down. by doing this method, my abv has been reaching a more acceptable level of brown-ness. my grind is an upside down SCS until its fluffy dust. my pack is tapping a jyarz bottle in until it loosely fills up about 75% of the gh chamber. if i tamp it down, i usually have to stir before trying again and then dumping. but instead of tamping now, i just flick the gh w the clicker/clip end in my hand and flick it like a drumstick or like im flicking a whip...this shakes up the loose stuff inside so where i can get visible exhale on 1.5 more hits. this browns the abv really well...oh, i also stay on temp 5 always...without this technique, my abv would be olive green/gold, but now its like milk-chocolate coloured.

It would be interesting to know if all GH with a hot back end also have problems with the batteries. It would also be interesting to know, whether people with a cold back end, have a loss of power, even at an early stage. Perhaps the batteries are simply fast at their end of life.

I find it unfortunately difficult to express myself, this is not my usual language. Sorry for that :-)
im noticing slightly less battery life in my SS vs my Ti (no excessive heating in either clicker ends)...still dunno if its me, the individual battery, or the vape...will continue testing...

EDIT:

also instead of carrying tweezers around here is how i fixed my loose screen:

1. i put the cap on without tightening it
2. i twisted the cap x-clockwise (loosening the cap)
3. when the cap was off the threads, i would PRESS THE MOUTHPIECE AND BOWL PARTS OF THE GH TOGETHER WITH SOME FORCE AND CONTINUE LOOSENING THE CAP (EDIT: i think i meant keep the mouthpiece off the threads while doing partial rotations in the tightening direction, make sure to keep taking the mouthpiece out of the threads track and then do another semi rotation with force...maybe i dont know how to say it, but i swear it worked for me and it hasnt rattled since)
4. this pressure had enough friction to hold the screen in place and tighten it up the threads.
5. then just tighten and loosen the mouthpiece as normal and it should not pull the screen down those threads and also you dont have to worry about catching something sharp in the screen holes and damaging anything...

lemme know if it worked for you too!!

using this method, you could probably loosen the screen on purpose by tightening the mouthpiece all the way until the pressure between it & the screen pulls it enough to loosen it on the way out...


hopefully that made sense...
 
Last edited:

JoeMama

Well-Known Member
For what it may be worth to anyone, I found these two
I use the pen type.
You simply `paint` the threads with the pen... I don`t have any build up but i always wipe clean and than apply the suff.
Thanks!

I went to Amazon and found these two items... can't decide which I like better, but I'll get both and give one away.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EQ7H82/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015ABK4O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I figured the "oiler" would be great for the threads, so I don't have to chew up the tip of the "pen" on them over time. I can even try just using the pen on the contacts, and batteries.

Keeping Hopper Healthy.
 
JoeMama,

moondog

It's an obsession but it's pleasin'
For what it may be worth to anyone, I found these two

Thanks!

I went to Amazon and found these two items... can't decide which I like better, but I'll get both and give one away.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EQ7H82/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015ABK4O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I figured the "oiler" would be great for the threads, so I don't have to chew up the tip of the "pen" on them over time. I can even try just using the pen on the contacts, and batteries.

Keeping Hopper Healthy.
I'll be interested to hear the results of this experiment
 
moondog,
  • Like
Reactions: JoeMama

Vapor_Eyes

taste buds
i really want you guys to try the pulse inhaling method...
yesterday i went to go see suicide squad (which i actually liked) and either my technique is better or my gh is better...ive been hitting it the pulse way and it avoids getting a eye-watering hit that makes you cough a lot. what i do is click it on, take a short breath, hold, and exhale (if its the priming hits, i dont hold it). i dont click off until i have had a good 2-3 short pulse type hits. think of it like coaxing vape out of an old school mflb, but without the delay...lot more stealthier on the exhale and the vapor doesnt explode in my lungs while i try to battle it down. by doing this method, my abv has been reaching a more acceptable level of brown-ness. my grind is an upside down SCS until its fluffy dust. my pack is tapping a jyarz bottle in until it loosely fills up about 75% of the gh chamber. if i tamp it down, i usually have to stir before trying again and then dumping. but instead of tamping now, i just flick the gh w the clicker/clip end in my hand and flick it like a drumstick or like im flicking a whip...this shakes up the loose stuff inside so where i can get visible exhale on 1.5 more hits. this browns the abv really well...oh, i also stay on temp 5 always...without this technique, my abv would be olive green/gold, but now its like milk-chocolate coloured.

im noticing slightly less battery life in my SS vs my Ti (no excessive heating in either clicker ends)...still dunno if its me, the individual battery, or the vape...will continue testing...

EDIT:

also instead of carrying tweezers around here is how i fixed my loose screen:

1. i put the cap on without tightening it
2. i twisted the cap x-clockwise (loosening the cap)
3. when the cap was off the threads, i would PRESS THE MOUTHPIECE AND BOWL PARTS OF THE GH TOGETHER WITH SOME FORCE AND CONTINUE LOOSENING THE CAP (EDIT: i think i meant keep the mouthpiece off the threads while doing partial rotations in the tightening direction, make sure to keep taking the mouthpiece out of the threads track and then do another semi rotation with force...maybe i dont know how to say it, but i swear it worked for me and it hasnt rattled since)
4. this pressure had enough friction to hold the screen in place and tighten it up the threads.
5. then just tighten and loosen the mouthpiece as normal and it should not pull the screen down those threads and also you dont have to worry about catching something sharp in the screen holes and damaging anything...

lemme know if it worked for you too!!

using this method, you could probably loosen the screen on purpose by tightening the mouthpiece all the way until the pressure between it & the screen pulls it enough to loosen it on the way out...


hopefully that made sense...
I do use the pulse technique sometimes at temp 5 with difficult to extract material. It does help extract, but I feel it is because it is adding conduction. I say this because of how hot the hopper gets and how dark the ABV gets.

I find my hopper's ABV is the same color as my other convection vapes, generally speaking. My conduction vapes always extract darker even at the same temp level.

I really enjoy taking long hits, 20 seconds and up. So I usually prefer not to use the pulse method. It is still a very effective technique, just not my main style.

Thank you so much for sharing, I always enjoy reading how other people use their hoppers. I think these usage posts contain great advice for newcomers, let's see more of them!

I'll start off with a brief summary of my standard usage.

I use a pinch or two of medium fluffy grind. Usually about .05 grams. A scale that can handle 1/100ths of a gram is a surprisingly helpful tool when vaping, and they are very cheap online.

I load it into the hopper a pinch at a time. After the first pinch I tap the side of my hopper to make the herb settle. Then I add more till its full, without any tamping at all. The idea is a full but fluffy load with plenty of room for airflow to extract the goodies. I get the biggest clouds loading it this way.

I use it at temp 4 the entire session. I take long hits for 20 seconds or more on average. My draw speed is usually medium to high. Sometimes I draw slow with an occasional sharp puff to keep the auto shutoff from engaging.

I place my lips far up, pretty much on the body itself, at the point it starts to taper. I shut it off near the end of the draw and keep drawing for a couple seconds afterwards.

I usually get 3-4 good clouds from each chamber using it this way. The quality of your cannabis will affect how many hits you get and how dense they are.
 

MoltenTiger

Well-Known Member
Does anybody know the current status of Hopper's ss case and their plans about the oil end?
Will they come (again) and when yes, when they will be available approximately?
I got an email at the start of the week saying
The SS Case is still in development and will ship once we get them in-stock.
I would expect it before the years end, but I won't be holding my breath :)

-----------------

I was looking at DeoxIT on YouTube, the D-series seemed to leave substantial lubricant residue, more than WD-40. I decided I wouldn't want this in my hopper... but just to clarify, this is only going on the back end? I would be hesitant putting conductive oil onto the PCB
 

delloy

Well-Known Member
Came across these little bits of glass today by roor, not sure if they would function as a GH mouthpiece extender or not but will post info anyways. Anyone fancy trying them? Im in the UK so not really worth my while to ship them here.

They come in standard round profile or with a flattened end. The piece is quoted as 16mm but I am not sure if this is an external or internal measurement.




http://www.phunckyfeeltips.com/collections/classic-clear-tips/products/16mm-jumbo-pft
 
Last edited:
delloy,
  • Like
Reactions: caliwisp

MoltenTiger

Well-Known Member
Has anyone ever had a constant red light with short blue blinks? (Like Reeeeeeeeed - Blue - Reeeeeeeeed...) I've had the quickly changing lights on and off from day one but now it is different.
If you have quickly changing lights, you probably have a sensor issue.

When mine was doing the cop light show, occasionally I could get it to work as per normal, except it would reach temperature during the red light phase. Sometimes the blue light would come on mid drag, sometimes it would also go off a few seconds later - it wasn't with any regulatory though.

You should probably get a warranty fix on your hopper, has it been malfunctioning since you first received it??
 
Last edited:
MoltenTiger,
  • Like
Reactions: moondog

Hogni

Honi soit qui mal y pense
I got an email at the start of the week saying

I would expect it before the years end, but I won't be holding my breath :)


-----------------

I was looking at DeoxIT on YouTube, the D-series seemed to leave substantial lubricant residue, more than WD-40. I decided I wouldn't want this in my hopper... but just to clarify, this is only going on the back end? I would be hesitant putting conductive oil onto the PCB

Thx for the info!

I'm waiting anyway with my order up to next spring in the hope then all technical issues will be fixed at least deminished. (Some) warranty shipments from Germany are to expansive. Worth the wait.
 
Hogni,

flipjoe

Well-Known Member
Came across these little bits of glass today by roor, not sure if they would function as a GH mouthpiece extender or not but will post info anyways. Anyone fancy trying them? Im in the UK so not really worth my while to ship them here.

I had one of these but never tried it with the gh. But i'm using a glass mouthpiece of my mighty vaporizer which is thinner then the roor tip. I think the roor tip could be too wide to fit into the hole of the silicone mp of the gh. I can really recommend the mighty glass mp or a mflb glass mp.
 

MoltenTiger

Well-Known Member
Thx for the info!

I'm waiting anyway with my order up to next spring in the hope then all technical issues will be fixed at least deminished. (Some) warranty shipments from Germany are to expansive. Worth the wait.
Yeah, it might be worth buying one from a European retailer if you get the chance?
The box is small though, it was quite cheap to post from Australia.

However the units I received this week from my pre-order seem to be really good quality. I think they have reached a fairly stable build at this point, and I don't expect to ship off my beautiful blue unit anytime soon (I did expect this round one). I think there is a lot of people focusing only on the warranty cases, as there's not much else to say as a user.
when it's working it is brilliant but the results are mostly pretty similar so posting mostly feels like rehashing the obvious.

Came across these little bits of glass today by roor, not sure if they would function as a GH mouthpiece extender or not but will post info anyways. Anyone fancy trying them? Im in the UK so not really worth my while to ship them here.

They come in standard round profile or with a flattened end. The piece is quoted as 16mm but I am not sure if this is an external or internal measurement.




http://www.phunckyfeeltips.com/collections/classic-clear-tips/products/16mm-jumbo-pft
I believe that is a glass "roach" for the end of marijuana cigarette (now redundant ;))
Same as these by Space Cadet Glass Australia

He has freezable glycerine filled tips, I'm thinking these could fit in the silicone MP, kinda tempted to get a pair...
 
Last edited:

JoeMama

Well-Known Member
I got an email at the start of the week saying

I would expect it before the years end, but I won't be holding my breath :)

-----------------

I was looking at DeoxIT on YouTube, the D-series seemed to leave substantial lubricant residue, more than WD-40. I decided I wouldn't want this in my hopper... but just to clarify, this is only going on the back end? I would be hesitant putting conductive oil onto the PCB

Perhaps the threads are the spot for occasional use of the D solution, and very lightly applied and wiped.

When I get the products by weekend I'll be exploring the efficacy of this stuff and will do a summary here.
 
JoeMama,
  • Like
Reactions: moondog

Kfirrer

Well-Known Member
I was looking at DeoxIT on YouTube, the D-series seemed to leave substantial lubricant residue, more than WD-40. I decided I wouldn't want this in my hopper... but just to clarify, this is only going on the back end? I would be hesitant putting conductive oil onto the PCB

With the pen style DeoxiT i get very little residue and i use it only on the threads and the negative contact on the backend.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Kfirrer,

WoodyWeedPecker

Well-Known Member
I have my gh for a few days now. This is supposed to be only a short report since I have little experience with it. I'm getting some nice clouds. The vapor is very pleasant for me. It's not harsh even at 5 which is surprising since the abv end up pretty dark (it's high temp) and the vapor is pretty warm (as it should). Of course, I can push the abv to be darker with a desktop like E-Nano and LSV but I prefer medium dark abv.

There's a lot of draw resistance but according to Caroline "The Grasshopper does require a strong draw." I'm getting used to it and it feels like there's better air flow but I'm still surprised any reviewer could say there's little draw resistance with this device. You need a strong draw (or the draw sensor cut you off) and there's a lot of draw resistance but I can't compare it with the Solo or Pax since I don't have those devices. I don't have to pull that hard with the E-Nano. You must tell your friends to "pull hard and long"; and this gives you lung busting hits (at temp 4-5) with a fresh bowl (especially on the second and third hits as all full convection vaporizers).

Unfortunately, I have a hopper with a hot back end issue. My threads are clean and screwed all the way. At any point the back end is warmer to the touch when I draw compared to the middle of the gh (it's not radiated heat from the heater, you can see it by wrapping your fingers around the top-middle part of the gh. The heat comes from the top). It's especially noticeable when the battery is blinking blue and while you draw. At that point, the back end is too hot to the touch and you must hold the gh by the middle part (above the heater).

My batteries seem to last maybe around 10-15 draws, barely 2 bowls. But I still need to experience more, to be sure.

With the silicone mouthpiece, it's never too hot for the lips to me. I would prefer if the silicone mouthpiece would fit tighter around the hopper, so it doesn't so easily slide off.

The ABV of the Grasshopper are beautiful. Evenly vaped. For maximum efficiency, you must put enough herb to fill the screen, which is not a lot, but you still need to put more herb than the E-Nano or a LSV with an Arizer screen (or a MFLB of course). Changing the temp of the dial allow for graded change in the ABV color. So the match between the temp dial and ABV color is perfect. I still have difficulty getting consistant results, sometimes I'm pulling lung busting clouds out of nowhere, sometimes I have an average cloud at my second pull at 4 or 5. But my ABV always end up perfect and I feel pretty baked! I have my hopper only for a few days and I usually don't vape that much. This is my experience thus far, maybe it will change in the future as I experience with it with different strain, bowl size, draws, grinding consistency, temps, and solved the issue with the back end.
 
Last edited:

Mr. Me2

Well-Known Member
I have my gh for a few days now. This is supposed to be only a short report since I have onl. I'm getting some nice clouds. The vapor is very pleasant for me. It's not harsh even at 5 which is surprising since the abv end up pretty dark (it's high temp) and the vapor is pretty warm (as it should). Of course, I can push the abv to be darker with a desktop like E-Nano and LSV but I prefer medium dark abv.

There's a lot of draw resistance but according to Caroline "The Grasshopper does require a strong draw." I'm getting used to it and it feels like there's better air flow but I'm still surprised any reviewer could say there's little draw resistance with this device. You need a strong draw (or the draw sensor cut you off) and there's a lot of draw resistance but I can't compare it with the Solo or Pax since I don't have those devices. You must tell your friends to "pull hard and long"; and this gives you lung busting hits with a fresh bowl (especially on the second and third hits as all full convection vaporizers).

Unfortunately, I have a hopper with a hot back end issue. My threads are clean and screwed all the way. At any point the back end is warmer to the touch when I draw compared to the middle of the gh (it's not radiated heat from the heater, you can see it by wrapping your fingers around the top-middle part of the gh. The heat comes from the top). It's especially noticeable when the battery is blinking blue and while you draw. At that point, the back end is too hot to the touch and you must hold the gh by the middle part (above the heater).

My batteries seem to last maybe around 10-15 draws, barely 2 bowls. But I still need to experience more, to be sure.

With the silicone mouthpiece, it's never too hot for the lips to me. I would prefer if the silicone mouthpiece would fit tighter around the hopper, so it doesn't so easily slide off.

The ABV of the Grasshopper are beautiful. Evenly vaped. For maximum efficiency, you must put enough herb to fill the screen, which is not a lot, but you still need to put more herb than the E-Nano or a LSV with an Arizer screen (or a MFLB of course). Changing the temp of the dial allow for graded change in the ABV color. So the match between the temp dial and ABV color is perfect. I still have difficulty getting consistant results, sometimes I'm pulling lung busting clouds out of nowhere, sometimes I have an average cloud at my second pull at 4 or 5. But my ABV always end up perfect and I feel pretty backed! I have my hopper only for a few days and I usually don't vape that much. This is my experience thus far, maybe it will change in the future as I experience with it with different strain, bowl size, draws, grinding consistency, temps, and solved the issue with the back end.
Regarding your draw resistance, have you tried a looser pack in the oven? You may want to try that to see if draw resistance lessens
 

MoltenTiger

Well-Known Member
Does anyone have a back-end that gets hot that is in perfect condition?

Between the two I have, one is rigid in every way, and the other one, that heats up, has some play when wiggled (where the clip joins and the stainless ring on the back-end [when held separate to the unit]).
I'm wondering if that is the cause of the high resistance and heat.

I get the same performance on either hopper no matter the back-end, but the blue one doesn't get hot. Battery life seems comparable too.
 
MoltenTiger,

WoodyWeedPecker

Well-Known Member
Regarding your draw resistance, have you tried a looser pack in the oven? You may want to try that to see if draw resistance lessens
Even if the hopper is empty I fell like the draw resistance is heavy compared to the E-Nano. My screens are clean. I'm still surprised any reviewers would say it has little draw resistance. Maybe they compare it to vaporizers which have higher draw resistance than the gh and my E-Nano (and LSV/MFLB but those have no draw resistance at all)? Caroline told me the gh requires "a strong draw" and I draw strongly!
 
Last edited:

Mr. Me2

Well-Known Member
Even if the hopper is empty I fell like the draw resistance is heavy compared to the E-Nano. My screens are clean. I'm still surprised any reviewers would say it has little draw resistance. Maybe they compare it to vaporizers which have higher draw resistance than the gh and my E-Nano (and LSV/MFLB but those have almost no draw resistance at all)? Caroline told me the gh requires "a strong draw" and I draw strongly!
I don't have experience with the e-nano, so I can't make that comparison with you. But I believe you. From my (somewhat limited) experience, I find the pax2 has much more draw resistance than the gh. That's part of learning the required technique for each. To me, that's part of the fun.
 

Baron23

Well-Known Member
Even if the hopper is empty I fell like the draw resistance is heavy compared to the E-Nano. My screens are clean. I'm still surprised any reviewers would say it has little draw resistance. Maybe they compare it to vaporizers which have higher draw resistance than the gh and my E-Nano (and LSV/MFLB but those have no draw resistance at all)? Caroline told me the gh requires "a strong draw" and I draw strongly!
I agree with you that the GH has some pretty dang good draw resistance but I am able to pull hard on it and it just doesn't bother me. The harder I pull (once I get some hot air flowing) the bigger hit I get. Using it with a water pipe, I can pull so hard and long I have essentially consumed a load in two draws but that was unusual. Usually its more like 3-4.

The way I load is that I have pre-ground herb in a container. I have Delta 3D's GH funnel. I lightly tap herb into the funnel until the chamber is 3/4 or full. But that is it....no tamping, no tapping to get the herb to settle, none of that. By sort of lightly pouring it in, the chamber looks full but there is a lot of space in there for hot air to flow through.

I don't know why, but so far my back end has stayed cool as a cucumber and my GH works beautifully.

Love the vape...the company needs some serious work.
 
Top Bottom