Divine Tribe atty's

[Vape Donkey 650]

For still being small but having great performance, id go with the cuboid mini, you could get it in white with a black stripe.

Artery nugget is smaller than your mini volt but not in that color, and the tc is sub-par and will leave you with that black crust on your donut much sooner.

Then you got pico, evic vtc, many colors, but thats getting bigger. You should refer to my mini mod roundup post a page or two back.

Posting on phones and tablets sucks.

 

[Volteric]

Most display the resistance, they have to measure it internally to set the power level ("Watts") to match that individual atty since they must calculate a voltage to apply.

The value displayed when you screw in the atty (even before firing it off) is the one you want. Normally it's about .7 Ohms.

Often this takes the format X.XX with the Omega symbol rather than "Ohms". If yours doesn't display this, reading it is not going to be an option.......

OF

So, it read .7 (omega sign). That's still good, right? And I'm assuming that concentrate that "bleeds" into the outer donut inverted rim is normal? It doesn't spill down into somewhere else?

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

0.7 ohm is good. As long as you're not over-loading it, or not pressing the button down when it's loaded up and not providing any suction on the mouthpiece (not hitting it) it should not leak down into the base of the atomizer through the little holes in the donut's wire leads or the air ports on the side of the bowl.


You can also "cold clear" by dry hitting the mouthpiece after a hit, without pressing the power button, to suck up and cool down any possible leaking oil.

You can try to scrape at that little "bleed" around the outside rim of the donut very gently with a small dab tool, small knife, metal pin, or a toothpick (my choice) if that bothers you, but be very careful if you want to do this. It could short out the leads on the donut and make it unusable, sometimes you can poke at it and it comes back. Probably 90% of my donuts can take a decent scraping with a toothpick but I have broken a few doing this.

It's much safer to clean up this kind of reclaim, and to whiten up your donut, by heat cycling...

Put on 11w VW and hold the button while you hold it upside down and gently blow through the side holes, and wipe up clean with cotton swabs. Matt has posted a video of this.

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

Ok, after some hard work in my dab lab once again, I'm pleased to unveil my new high-performance, high-airflow, medical/food grade completely healthy

dab rig glass globe elbow adapters for the v2.5 DT CDA! yay!!!!!

Also, I got a new rig real cheap direct from china, and the new elbow adapter works great at that height as well.

And for the big cuboid or a similar tall mod, just throw in an 18mm F/M adapter as a booster seat, another piece I found online now.

The new materials:

• 1/2" ID 3/4" OD silicon hose
  
• copper elbows
• generic "skull" glass globe from DT
  
• 18mm M/M angled glass joint

You can see I was eager to put this together once I had all the materials from the various sources, I didn't bother to clean up all the splashed oil on my trusty old globe. I didn't have to, the silicon slides right over but grips everything real tight. I can pick up the whole rig with the mod attched by the base and it will drag everything together in one piece, not fall off.

The airflow feels much improved over my old setup, which was still sporting PVC connectors on top of my globe, even though it had the superior silicon hose gripping the atomizer base tight. The new 18mm joints are key to improving my airflow. These old custom glass 18mm arizer elbows I was using previously were very nice and pretty, but it's very clear now they restricted the airflow between my globe and the 18mm F joint on all my rigs. It will be sad to phase these out.

So what do you think now OF? Meets with your approval? All clean MSDS for our uses here?

 

[blizingerbs]

I

Ok, after some hard work in my dab lab once again, I'm pleased to unveil my new high-performance, high-airflow, medical/food grade completely healthy

dab rig glass globe elbow adapters for the v2.5 DT CDA! yay!!!!!

Also, I got a new rig real cheap direct from china, and the new elbow adapter works great at that height as well.

And for the big cuboid or a similar tall mod, just throw in an 18mm F/M adapter as a booster seat, another piece I found online now.

The new materials:

• 1/2" ID 3/4" OD silicon hose
  
• copper elbows
• generic "skull" glass globe from DT
  
• 18mm M/M angled glass joint

You can see I was eager to put this together once I had all the materials from the various sources, I didn't bother to clean up all the splashed oil on my trusty old globe. I didn't have to, the silicon slides right over but grips everything real tight. I can pick up the whole rig with the mod attched by the base and it will drag everything together in one piece, not fall off.

The airflow feels much improved over my old setup, which was still sporting PVC connectors on top of my globe, even though it had the superior silicon hose gripping the atomizer base tight. The new 18mm joints are key to improving my airflow. These old custom glass 18mm arizer elbows I was using previously were very nice and pretty, but it's very clear now they restricted the airflow between my globe and the 18mm F joint on all my rigs. It will be sad to phase these out.

So what do you think now OF? Meets with your approval? All clean MSDS for our uses here?

I bet the copper will be scrutinized due to its taste and appearance. I'm sure it's "safe" but will it be good enough for the all-glass-airpaths around these days...
Nice for a DIY but very tough sell

 

[OF]

So what do you think now OF? Meets with your approval? All clean MSDS for our uses here?

You don't need my approval for anything, right? I tend to raise concerns I see that I think might not have been considered, trying to help, you get to decide what is 'approved'?

If the tube now is temperature rated for the duty (not what's in the last photo) I think that's better, don't you?

I bet the copper will be scrutinized due to its taste and appearance. I'm sure it's "safe" but will it be good enough for the all-glass-airpaths around these days...
Nice for a DIY but very tough sell

Shouldn't matter once it's coated with condensate of course, but I can also hear the purists warming up, putting their notes in order, loading the Teleprompters and making other plans.......

How about we glaze ('enamel') the inside? Should be easy enough. IIRC it's basically ground glass and flux (borax?). Then the piece is 'fired' so the flux melts followed by the glass which fuses into a single layer before cooling, like glazing on dinnerware or coffee cups. Careful torch work on a brick should do that I'd think. You get a continuous glass surface over what's under it sealing it completely. Like is done with the glaze used in the DT atty???? Some might still object, but IMO they wouldn't have much to stand on.

Making the outside pretty can be done a number of ways, not the least of which is a bright polish and protective coat? Or maybe flames and pin striping.......like a bitty hot rod?

OF

Edit: Looking again at the overall photo (last one) I'm not sure a longer piece of tube wouldn't do the same thing without the copper and second tube? Seems 'plenty of room' for a 90 degree turn. Copper wire can be wrapped around the outside to shape it if needed......

OF

 

[erka]

Hi i do a 30 secondes preheat, at 33 w this day and after jump in ti TC , he said new cool up same down, i down the temps to 100 c heat one time and see the temp go up, after that You can play with temps.m'y wattage was of 25 this day..hope that helps.
After one session , i retry thé same processus and it jump on Watt mod and dont do TC.capricious beast...

 

[mrbonsai420]

I just got a few more divine tribe donuts in as well as a Yocan NYX QDC to try out. I also ordered a few VTC minis from Fastech but unfortunately they are taking forever to get here so I am still using my VW mods without TC for now.

I can't wait for the VTC Mini 75W! What settings do I use for the DT atty's for these?


Hooking these 2 up to water is so easy! The DT 2.5 mouthpiece can pair up with 14mm or 18mm with just a simple piece of silicone tubing and an o-ring or 2 off of an old DT atty base. It seals perfectly on 14 or 18mm with this setup plus acts as a heat reducer when using normally. For .10c this is a mod everyone should have on there mouthpiece.
As for the Yocan NYX, it's o rings without the mouthpiece pairs up to the 18mm joint as long as it's not recessed. It's just a big, dual Ti coil around quartz rods and hits really hard even at 8 watts. I still prefer the DT ones but this is a heavy hitter for sure!

 

[PoopMachine]

Kind of interested in going this route... the pen style units just dont seem to have any longevity. Ive read the last 5 or 6 pages of this thread but I wasnt able to get a handle on what I need and where I can get it. Whats a good initial setup to get going thats relatively idiot proof?

 

[Volteric]

I notice I'm getting pretty clouds with really no material on the donut. Is this the oil caught in the rim ? It's fairly tasteless. Just wondering if I'm still getting valid hits ?

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

Kind of interested in going this route... the pen style units just dont seem to have any longevity. Ive read the last 5 or 6 pages of this thread but I wasnt able to get a handle on what I need and where I can get it. Whats a good initial setup to get going thats relatively idiot proof?

Yea... the pens are all pretty much crap IMO. The most "idiot proof" TC is probably the istick 40W TC still, but if you can just press a few buttons a few times for initial setup, the evic VTC, mini cube, and pico are all much better temp control mods that will deliver better flavor, control, and vape quality over the old istick.

I notice I'm getting pretty clouds with really no material on the donut. Is this the oil caught in the rim ? It's fairly tasteless. Just wondering if I'm still getting valid hits ?

It may appear there is not much material on your donut, but in the space between the floor of the ceramic cup that holds the donut, and the backside of the donut itself (that you can't see) there can be a significant amount of semi-melted oil (or reclaim?) caught up in that nook. And also around the rim.

After the first few puffs after a fresh reload, you can still have alot of oil in these spaces. I consider this oil quite "valid" to keep on piffing on, even if the flavor tapers off after several hits.

Alot of guys here will clean their donuts after only a few hits on a single reload even though it's still giving these marginal hits. I'm not so picky myself, it kind of depends on you and your own tastes

I'll reload, try to vape it all up till there's not much visible vape left, scrape gently, and reload, and repeat several times before I clean a donut, not until there's some significant crust buildup.

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

You don't need my approval for anything, right? I tend to raise concerns I see that I think might not have been considered, trying to help, you get to decide what is 'approved'?

If the tube now is temperature rated for the duty (not what's in the last photo) I think that's better, don't you?

Well, I kind of do, because you were the one who initially raised the concerns about the use of PVC hose, to which I was blissfully ignorant of at the time. Speaking of that, US Plastics finally did respond to my e-mail about using PVC for a vapor hose weeks after I wrote them. They didn't answer my question about what specific compounds could be gassing off, but did say:

Hello,
I do apologize for the delayed response on your request. I do not recommend using PVC for an application with those temperatures. Silicone would handle the temps much better. I don't have a tubing similar in hardness to the pvc that meets the temperatures. You would need to choose between the two. At 400°F your tubing is absolutely breaking down. Melting points begins at 245°F

I've tried looking around the interwebs and asking on a few threads on this forum about the precise dangers of using PVC for this application, and I think these concerns may be slightly inflated. However, if there are any valid concerns, and a safer and suitable material can be sourced easily, then, yes! use that instead! Silicon hose FTW

I bet the copper will be scrutinized due to its taste and appearance. I'm sure it's "safe" but will it be good enough for the all-glass-airpaths around these days...
Nice for a DIY but very tough sell

Ha, thanks! Tough sell? I think I got about ~$15 bucks invested into each elbow setup

Shouldn't matter once it's coated with condensate of course, but I can also hear the purists warming up, putting their notes in order, loading the Teleprompters and making other plans.......

How about we glaze ('enamel') the inside? Should be easy enough. IIRC it's basically ground glass and flux (borax?). Then the piece is 'fired' so the flux melts followed by the glass which fuses into a single layer before cooling, like glazing on dinnerware or coffee cups. Careful torch work on a brick should do that I'd think. You get a continuous glass surface over what's under it sealing it completely. Like is done with the glaze used in the DT atty???? Some might still object, but IMO they wouldn't have much to stand on.

Making the outside pretty can be done a number of ways, not the least of which is a bright polish and protective coat? Or maybe flames and pin striping.......like a bitty hot rod?

OF

Thanks for creative ideas, but probably unnecessarily complex, just like my overall setup. I don't think there's any problem using the copper elbow right now, and there's no taste there for me to notice.

Looking back at it now, I'm realizing there's no reason why I can't substitute another one of those 18mm angled glass joints in place of the copper elbow. The bend on the glass joint is not as sharp, but I can work it out. I only have 2 of these glass joints so far, and 4 more are on the way. I just now put in another big purchase of these things; they're cheap and will come in handy with some other vape projects I have on the horizon as well.....

http://www.dhgate.com/product/45-degree-bent-shape-male-to-male-glass-adapter/383695923.html

That will satisfy the glass purists a little bit more.

Edit: Looking again at the overall photo (last one) I'm not sure a longer piece of tube wouldn't do the same thing without the copper and second tube? Seems 'plenty of room' for a 90 degree turn. Copper wire can be wrapped around the outside to shape it if needed......

OF

That was my initial intent; to not need an extra elbow besides the one going to my rig. I tried a longer section of the silicon hose going directly to the top of my glass globe, but the hose would kink above the globe. I could try putting more booster joints into my rig to have the hose come down from higher up in the shape of an elegant half-parabola, but that would make the hose longer and also be a longer vapor path and inelegant in its own way. Not what I'm goin for here.

If you wanna try something like this on a rig whose input joint is much higher up, this setup would work without needing the second elbow, but my rigs have short and medium high inputs.

And the extra glass elbows I have OTW will replace the copper when it arrives

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

Hooking these 2 up to water is so easy! The DT 2.5 mouthpiece can pair up with 14mm or 18mm with just a simple piece of silicone tubing and an o-ring or 2 off of an old DT atty base. It seals perfectly on 14 or 18mm with this setup plus acts as a heat reducer when using normally. For .10c this is a mod everyone should have on there mouthpiece.
As for the Yocan NYX, it's o rings without the mouthpiece pairs up to the 18mm joint as long as it's not recessed. It's just a big, dual Ti coil around quartz rods and hits really hard even at 8 watts. I still prefer the DT ones but this is a heavy hitter for sure!

That way will work I'm sure, but I wouldn't advise it. The DT donut should always be held at a fairly level angle when in use, only a slight tilt maybe. Having it not level and standing up straight while in use can make the oil leak into the air holes and cause it to become clogged. Holding it completely upside down like that can cause it to clog, or will just splash like hell! Take a look at your mouthpiece after that hit I bet half of what you loaded splashed up on it.

Nice little rig you got there too.. I'm trying to see what kind of perc is has but it's too full of thick vape (and smoke?) Looks like a swirling coil perc?

For something real simple, you can buy these little things from Matt, they will connect directly from your atty base to your rig.

http://ineedhemp.com/product/bubbler-attachment-for-the-version-2-5-ceramic-donut-atomizer/

It works, but it doesn't meet my requirements. Sticking a long silicon hose from the 2.5 mouthpiece to your rig also works fine, and several people here have done it. But I have several arbitrary, self-imposed requirements for my donut to rig setup that you may not also insist upon, so let me articulate them:

• capless - with no mouthpiece attatched to the base, but a large glass globe instead

I demand this because I love seeing a huge vape cloud expanding into the globe before it goes into the rig. It also functions as a "sight glass" or "flow meter" and gives me an idea of how much oil is left on my donut. (by observing the vapor density in the globe) A smaller globe doesn't provide this degree of visual info, and the opaque silicon hose alone can't be used as a flow meter.

• it can stand up, united and level as one piece, the dab rig and mod together, and not fall over

And even be picked up us one piece. I want this because I set these up on my desk and shelf, ready to go, as a fixture. But I can quickly swap out the mod to switch to a different strain if I want. Matt's little glass elbow pictured above will probably not sit, level and balanced, with the mod and atomizer attached to the globe, into the joint of your dab rig. Unless the input joint is really low and it allows the mod to touch the floor, or if your mod is really light and tiny like the minivolt, or if your rig is just really huge and heavy.

If you have the pico or evic plugged into that elbow in most rigs and don't hold it, it will fall over.

Yes, you can just store them separate from each other, not attached, but I don't wanna do that. That's just me.

• higher airflow ! ! !

My old setup with the pretty glass elbow has a smaller chokepoint in the straight part of the glass that you attach the silicon hose to. The DT glass elbows also choke the vapor path to a pretty small bore. Since I was upgrading this project to all silicon, and I had more of the larger diameter silicon hose, and also the new glass 18mm elbows, this seemed like a good opportunity to pick up some easy CFM's.

The new 18mm elbows never taper smaller than 14mm diameter on the inside, and the top exit of my skull glass globe is about 13mm also. The smaller hose and my old elbows had many restrictions and smaller diameters throughout the vapor path.

The increase in airflow is not huge but it is noticeable... I seem to be pulling the same size clouds with less draw resistance and effort. Opening up the airway even changed the bubbling sound my rig makes. It's a lower, more bass-y rumble now, like upgrading a car's exhaust pipes diameter and installing headers

Hi i do a 30 secondes preheat, at 33 w this day and after jump in ti TC , he said new cool up same down, i down the temps to 100 c heat one time and see the temp go up, after that You can play with temps.m'y wattage was of 25 this day..hope that helps.
After one session , i retry thé same processus and it jump on Watt mod and dont do TC.capricious beast...

Hey erka!!! I've played around with the pico and DC some more, and I've been getting it to TC in TC-SS mode! 25w @ TC-SS 390F, it takes almost 10 seconds to reach protection, and you have to cycle 10 seconds at least 3x before it gets warm enough to give puffs, but I've had 3 sessions now in TC-SS and it stays in TC the whole sessions and seems to work!

Its watts will display 25, 25, 25, 25, 9, 0, 4, 17, 25, etc, or something like that, during the course of a 10 second hit. The temps displayed on the screen may not be accurate, but at least it seems to be having some TC function, and works that way?

I tried another sesh at 30w and it worked, and had to up the temps to around 460-480 at the end to finish the herb load, but I stopped short of that because it felt close to combustion.

This mode may work on the evic's and cuboids as well, we need to put a little more effort into this, but the DC atomizer has been more of a sideshow in my vape circus recently

 

[PoopMachine]

So is the VTC considerably better than the eLeaf he sells with his attys? I wanted to just order a proper kit from someone but I cant seem to find a turnkey deal like that.

This will be like the 4th "pen" type unit Ive bought in 5 weeks.. getting sick of spending money on stuff that sucks.

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

I think its much better, and so does many of the people posting on this thread.

If youre not really picky and snobby with your taste in vapes, and you can tolerate some vape thats a bit hot and combusty, the istick should be ok for you. If you want the best, you dont want that one.

Tons of places sell the evic vtc. Most places besides ebay will not sell you a fake; weve discussed many good places to buy them.

It would be nice to purchase all from one place, but its not a big deal to make another purchase. I sourced the parts for my elbow from 4 diff places. The DT donut and the mod to fire it are 2 separate, modular pieces anyways



https://www.vaportekusa.com/joyetech-evic-mini-vtc-75w-mod-only/.
http://vaportekusa.refr.cc/W75BB4W


Ive gotten most of my mods here. You can use that coupon to save 5 bucks, also enter coupon code 5OffNow during checkout to save a couple more bucks. 2.99 shipping anywhere in the us. Ships from SC to CA in about 3 days usually. they dont have lots of colors in stock right now, but also check out the cuboid mini. Performs exactlythe same as the vtc, but smaller and more idiot proof with a non removeable battery

https://www.vaportekusa.com/80w-joyetech-cuboid-mini-mod-kit-2400mah/

And also pico a good pick

https://www.vaportekusa.com/istick-pico-mod-only-by-eleaf-75w/

Dont forget to buy an 18650 cell for the evic or pico if you dont have one already.

I'm laying it all before you here, pooper

 

[StickyShisha2]

using temp control (when it is working well), makes it easier to get peak performance. Otherwise it requires a bit of a learning curve in order to "not foul" your oil. Easy enough, only when you let someone else hit it, they will overheat and foul the load.

edit to add: it looks like the pico is cheaper from where OF posted a page ago

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

Yes, a bit cheaper from gearbest, but they ship from China, so at least 1-4 weeks for delivery. They even took several days to ship mine out.

Not a big deal for me, i can wait. Vaportek doesnt have the brushed steel that i want in stock yet too. But others may be more antsy, and the first person to use that code can save $5 and have it delivered in the same week.

Just tryin to help a brotha (sista?) out.

 

[divinetribe]

Can anyone recommend a battery that will always 100% stay in temp mode with the DC atomizer? I had a Kangertech that worked but the charging port malfunctioned and made it stay on .. and I've heard of a few others, but i still have not found a mod that will support Temp mode on the DC 100% of the time.

 

[StickyShisha2]

.

any chance you have any 2.5 caps?

 

[Volteric]

Yea... the pens are all pretty much crap IMO. The most "idiot proof" TC is probably the istick 40W TC still, but if you can just press a few buttons a few times for initial setup, the evic VTC, mini cube, and pico are all much better temp control mods that will deliver better flavor, control, and vape quality over the old istick.



It may appear there is not much material on your donut, but in the space between the floor of the ceramic cup that holds the donut, and the backside of the donut itself (that you can't see) there can be a significant amount of semi-melted oil (or reclaim?) caught up in that nook. And also around the rim.

After the first few puffs after a fresh reload, you can still have alot of oil in these spaces. I consider this oil quite "valid" to keep on piffing on, even if the flavor tapers off after several hits.

Alot of guys here will clean their donuts after only a few hits on a single reload even though it's still giving these marginal hits. I'm not so picky myself, it kind of depends on you and your own tastes

I'll reload, try to vape it all up till there's not much visible vape left, scrape gently, and reload, and repeat several times before I clean a donut, not until there's some significant crust buildup.

I'm very curious, how many tokes from this gets you to where you want to be? And so as long as there are clouds there is "valid" oil in there? BTW, thank you for answering all my questions and even others who may not thank you. ;-)

Any chance you can tell me exactly why temp control really matters. I'm not finding the reasons why matters compared to watts only

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

Can anyone recommend a battery that will always 100% stay in temp mode with the DC atomizer? I had a Kangertech that worked but the charging port malfunctioned and made it stay on .. and I've heard of a few others, but i still have not found a mod that will support Temp mode on the DC 100% of the time.

Hey Matt! Coincidental that you are asking this now, because I have been playing around some more trying to "TC the DC" and I've had some success. I'll credit erka for posting her solution for TC use with the pico for "piquing" my interest in your DC atomizer again.

erka was warming up the DC in watts mode around 25w, for several seconds, then switching to TC-Ti mode to function in TC mode. I tried this and it did not work for me; would trip back into VW.

Now...I tried my pico in TC-SS mode @ 32W. It warms up and hits temperature, and stays in TC mode, but TC-SS is cutting off the wattage too sharply and too soon after it reaches protection to actually get any significant clouds, even when up to 600F.

But....after I have warmed up the atomizer by several 10 second button presses in TC-SS mode, 32W, around 400F, maybe 30-40 seconds at least...

Then switch to TC-Ti mode, 390F-420F seems to make decent clouds, and it is staying in TC mode throughout the whole session. It's working in TC mode! I've done this 4 session in a row now and vaped the bowl to completion more or less. If you try to start the session in TC-Ti mode, it will not work, it will trip to VW always. Pre-warming in TC-SS mode seems to work.

This atty does seem to be rather fickle, so I can't guarantee it will always work this way for all people, even if you have a pico. I'd like to see this process repeated in an evic VTC or a cuboid, but there's only so many scientific experiments I can conduct in a single day

The mouthpiece still gets way too hot during use for my poor lips. Maybe they're damaged from my reckless youth smoking too many roaches, but I've taken care of that by slipping over a silicon hose, same as I'm using on my elbows now. You could probably get away with a smaller piece of silicon, but this is what I have.

A stainless steel mesh cut and bent into the shape of a bowl keeps the flowers tight in place during vaping.

The flavor of the vape is pretty good as the session starts, but I think alot of terpeney goodness is being wasted during the initial warm-up period. After a few pulls the vape quickly gets pretty hot and harsh, but it's bearable. And I have a sensitive respiratory tract, so that's saying much. Not much flavor after the first few draws, get that generic burnt-popcorny taste you get with any flower vape, mid-session. But it seems to go on and on kinda long, with these marginal flower vape clouds.

The TC is surely not displaying accurate temps of your flowers, but at least it is throttling the wattage and controlling the temps to some helpful degree. I'm taking a few seconds break in between puffs so the ceramic doesn't overheat and I don't combust my flowers. When everything's really hot you can get puffs without pressing the power button. All this heat soak is putting alot of strain on the poor little pico, too. The battery meter reads lower when everything's all hot, seems to gain charge when cooled down again. Power hog for sure, only 3-4 sessions on a single VTC5 2600mah battery. I'm not entirely comfortable with all this heat, this could be testing our mods and lithium cells. Alot of juice vape guys are pushing much higher wattages, for sure, but they are pressing the button for a few seconds at a time, not for minutes on end like the DC. And I don't think there's any other 510 threaded atomizers of any sort that get anywhere near this hot.

I tried to vape my load to completion, and it took alot of marginal hits. My flowers looked super dark and crumbly (maybe because of the kief i put in the middle) but at least it avoided combustion, but not by much probably. I packed the bowl tight, maybe too tight. Perhaps a slightly looser pack would improve the session. I seemed to have to pull very hard on the mouthpiece to get those big clouds I seek. Sippy hits result in very little.

Well, the DC is no crafty, that's for sure, but for an all-ceramic flower vape that can be set up in entirety for aboutr ~$60 or so, I don't think there's anything that comes close. And of course, you can twist off the DC from your mod and replace with a donut instead, can make for a potent switch hitter combo for a single mod (if you can keep the battery charged )

I'm very curious, how many tokes from this gets you to where you want to be? And so as long as there are clouds there is "valid" oil in there? BTW, thank you for answering all my questions and even others who may not thank you. ;-)

Any chance you can tell me exactly why temp control really matters. I'm not finding the reasons why matters compared to watts only

Those extra marginal tokes that you get after a reload, when the donut looks empty, can go on for many hits. It gets wispier and less each hit, but it can take forever if you want to vape it and see nothing come out at all. That's why some people pass on those reclaimy hits and just heat clean the donut after just a few hits.

If you actually care about not combusting your oil, and maximizing the flavor and terpene content of your oil, and if you want to minimize the crusty buildup on your donut, and also if you want to chase the biggest clouds, there is no substitute for temp control.

If you're ok with crappy smaller marginal hits with combustion, don't bother with TC.

Without TC, you must carefully throttle the power button "pulse it" to avoid getting the donut too hot so that it combusts the oil (burns it, not just vapes it) Burning oil rather than just vaping will naturally leave more ash and crust and kills the flavor in your concentrates.

Some guys, with pride and bravado, think TC is unnecessary. They think they can match/exceed TC performance by timing their button presses. Well, you really can't. Maybe if you use higher than approved watts in VW like 15-20w, you can get the bigger clouds, but you're putting your donut life at serious risk and will be constantly riding the ragged edge of overheating and burning and breaking the donut.

You can set your TC mod to 25w (or 20w) and it gets it right hot right away and backs the watts down to a safe level so you can vape in "idiot proof" mode. Others like fernand and OF prefer 12w in TC. That will keep your vape safe and sound, but I don't like waiting 4 seconds to hit temperature. The benefit of TC @ 12w is not as substantial IMO, and you could almost match this performance with careful button clicking at 12W VW.

Just my opinions here, hope it helps. When I have time, I try to help out you guys who are new to the DT donut and TC mods since I've gotten so much help from some of the other guys here.

I'm thinking here, between me and OF, we are like Matt's hype-man, or forum sidekick, or free customer support reps.

 

[arrr]

If I take the 2 of rings off can I submerge the entire v2.5 atomizer in iso?

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

You can do that, but it is inadvisable.

The reason: you could possibly have semi-melted reclaim oil seeping into the atomizer base (if you're using it harshly) and soaking the whole base in iso probably won't be enough to completely dissolve and rinse away all the internal fouling.

Leaving you with a semi-dissolved reclaim residue fouled with alcohol inside your base, where you cannot reach it. You do not want to vape this stuff. This is a problem I have experienced with the pax Uncleanable unsafe non-medical grade piece of junk IMO.

Yes pax people...come here and debate me...assuage my concerns... haha they won't they don't care

Just heat cycle the donut at 11w VW and wipe away the reclaim oil with q-tips and napkins. This method has been well documented here.

 

[Volteric]

You can do that, but it is inadvisable.

The reason: you could possibly have semi-melted reclaim oil seeping into the atomizer base (if you're using it harshly) and soaking the whole base in iso probably won't be enough to completely dissolve and rinse away all the internal fouling.

Leaving you with a semi-dissolved reclaim residue fouled with alcohol inside your base, where you cannot reach it. You do not want to vape this stuff. This is a problem I have experienced with the pax Uncleanable unsafe non-medical grade piece of junk IMO.

Yes pax people...come here and debate me...assuage my concerns... haha they won't they don't care

Just heat cycle the donut at 11w VW and wipe away the reclaim oil with q-tips and napkins. This method has been well documented here.

So, I'm in 11.5 watt mode and I hit the button for 3-4 seconds. Pause, repeat and on the 3rd pulse I draw for about 8 seconds. In the little world of watt batteries am I maximizing this arrangement?

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

Maximizing that arrangement...probably not, but close. Doing what you describe above, you can probably get some decent clouds if you time it very carefully. But you do have to pause to let it cool down between hits in VW mode, and that judgement battling our desires for MOAR continuous vape clouds can result in less than ideal results

If you go TC, you can remove any need for judgement or patience in seeking large, quality, tasty clouds. Just hold the button down and ride it for as long as you want. Back to back to back, 10 second after 10 second if you like. You won't burn anything, you'll just empty your donut pretty quickly

You know, TC really is not necessary to get decent results with the DT donut. It just helps alot, gives bigger, smoother clouds with less effort.

For those of you who do not want to get a TC mod, or if you're an old school (2014 era) purist, the DT 2.5 donut actually works pretty will with unregulated or VW mods with the under-recognized 1.5 ohm high resistance DT 2.5 donut atomizer that Matt also sells.

The difference between the 1.5 and the 0.8 ohm is that the 1.5 is a "single coil" donut while the 0.8 ohm is a "dual coil" The donut looks and heats the same, but the high resistance only has a single wire going through the ceramic, while the 0.8 has two.

The 1.5 ohm will not work in TC mode, but for using lower-wattage devices, this one will heat up more quickly when pulsing the button at 11-12w. For the pulse and repeat method, the 1.5 ohm will heat up quicker and draw less battery power.

I used a 1.5 ohm donut with my old crappy itazte pen-style battery only for taking to work, since it is relatively lighter and fits in my pocket. It worked, but you need to exercise restraint while riding the button to avoid combustion. But with the cuboid mini now, that TC mod is small and light enough for me to take to work and not raise any eyebrows Anything not TC is fully in my rear-view window now