Nok21

Well-Known Member
So I have a minor issue, i figure this is the place to ask for help.

Today after a trench, i noticed some black goo somehow was on the corner of my screen, right where the screen folds down (The part that has the wire/rod thing under it). How should I clean this? So far I've dipped my brush in a little rubbing alcohol and brushed it carefully, and then once that was dry I stuck the battery in for a little bit.

No clue how it possibly could have gotten there, but at the moment there is still some residue on my screen (Looks like pipe resin) and I would love to know how to fully clean this bad boy off! Its thinly spread over the top "edge' of the trench. Anyone have any advice?
 
Nok21,

MileHighLife

Blower of glass, grower of grass
So I have a minor issue, i figure this is the place to ask for help.

Today after a trench, i noticed some black goo somehow was on the corner of my screen, right where the screen folds down (The part that has the wire/rod thing under it). How should I clean this? So far I've dipped my brush in a little rubbing alcohol and brushed it carefully, and then once that was dry I stuck the battery in for a little bit.

No clue how it possibly could have gotten there, but at the moment there is still some residue on my screen (Looks like pipe resin) and I would love to know how to fully clean this bad boy off! Its thinly spread over the top "edge' of the trench. Anyone have any advice?

Resin will build up over time. It really doesn't hurt anything but if it gets excessive or if it bothers you you can use a q tip dipped in iso to clean up the screen.
 
MileHighLife,

Nok21

Well-Known Member
Oh okay, i just was surprised because i never noticed it until after that trench. I suppose I shall try the q-tip and then continue as planned tonight.
 
Nok21,

NYC5IKH5jabi

Well-Known Member
just got done talking to the magicians over at MF. Hobbit helped me out to be exact. big shout out to magicflight once again for being every bit as good as expected.

so i come home from work to find a email from MF letting me know my replacement mflb is ready to ship. unfortunately, today while using my mfmd my power adapter 2.0 died on me :-( i let mr hobbit know that if it was cool id like to get both warranties taken care of in the same shipment as i already am never home to receive stuff. as expected, MF was more than willing to comply. i will receive the pa2.0 and my mflb replacements together.

THANK YOU MAGIC FLIGHt!
 

mmw2112

New Member
Ok I'm new to this guys...I just bought my LB a month ago and bought two extra Magic Flight batteries to go with it. Now the light is dim, even with fully charged batteries, and the thing doesn't seem to be vaping like it was though it will produce some vapor. I can't tell if ALL 4 of the batteries are screwed or if something has happened with the unit itself. I've used it everyday and has become the only thing I use. Did I overuse it lol? Anyone have any clue or advice? I appreciate it!
 
mmw2112,

Quetzalcoatl

DEADY GUERRERO/DIRT COBAIN/GEORGE KUSH
Don't use the light to guide your session. It's the training wheels of the device, to give you an idea. Can you try a different strain of material to see if it's not just that one you have? The light will dim a bit naturally as cannabinoids condense on it.
 

mmw2112

New Member
Don't use the light to guide your session. It's the training wheels of the device, to give you an idea. Can you try a different strain of material to see if it's not just that one you have? The light will dim a bit naturally as cannabinoids condense on it.
I'm also watching the vapor and it's simply not generating what it was and I've been using the same product for two months and it has worked fine until the past few days. These batteries have not been on the charger longer than 12 hours and most times taken off the charger within an hour of being fully charged. I have noticed the dimming slightly due to the resin, if you will, but this main dimming has happened all of a sudden but the main thing is that I've noticed the reduction in amount of vapor and the time it takes to get the vapor. It seems more battery related but it's hard to believe 4 batteries went bad in a month.
 
mmw2112,

lwien

Well-Known Member
Are you using the stock charger that came with it?

Reason why I'm asking is because if you use a Maha 9000 or a LaCrosse 700/1000, you can run a battery check.
 

mmw2112

New Member
Are you using the stock charger that came with it?

Reason why I'm asking is because if you use a Maha 9000 or a LaCrosse 700/1000, you can run a battery check.
Yep using the stock charger. What are these things you speak of :) ? Another battery charger ?
 
mmw2112,

lwien

Well-Known Member
Here are the two I mentioned above:

http://www.amazon.com/La-Crosse-Technology-Battery-Charger/dp/B000RSOV50/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1389688817&sr=8-1&keywords=LaCrosse bc

http://www.amazon.com/Powerex-MH-C9000-PowerEx-WizardOne-Charger-Analyzer/dp/B000NLUSLM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1389688876&sr=8-1&keywords=maha 9000

Not only will these chargers test your batts and tell you how much of charge that they can hold, but they can recondition your batteries as well besides doing a normal charge. If you use rechargeables, for me, I found these types of chargers indispensable.

Edit.....I purchased my BC700 for 10.00 less (22.00) than the current Amazon price........at Amazon, so it may be worth it to keep an eye out for a price drop.
 

SpruceGruve

Bag of sand in hand,Eyeing up the gold statue
Now that I'm using my MFLB with it's finishing grinder and the PA 2.0,I'm accidentally combusting more than ever...

I need to take a day and relearn how to use this again,it's a different ball game with constant power.
My only complaint is I use this while driving from site to site for work,it can be irritating to have to dump out a almost new trench because combustion happened.

But I'll check back and let everyone know how I make out.
 

shredhead

Specialist
Now that I'm using my MFLB with it's finishing grinder and the PA 2.0,I'm accidentally combusting more than ever...

I need to take a day and relearn how to use this again,it's a different ball game with constant power.
My only complaint is I use this while driving from site to site for work,it can be irritating to have to dump out a almost new trench because combustion happened.

But I'll check back and let everyone know how I make out.
Try dialing down to just under 50%, you can hammer on the button for 30 seconds and no combustion will occur.
 

SpruceGruve

Bag of sand in hand,Eyeing up the gold statue
I'll try that out.
Before posting I tried on full power with a bong,I was sucking hard enough to not combust,I was really happy.
Not I'm at about 70%power and combusting,but this is with the normal glass stem while driving.

Today I'll try 60%,50%,,and if need be lower.
 
SpruceGruve,

kahlilhc

Vaped Crusader/Serial Vapist
so i just got a pa 2.0, and it doesnt work at all, am i doing something wrong, is it my lb? plus its a tight fit and is already peeling the matal coating of the knob




edit: scratch that, working now............does it not go to max on the +side?
 
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kahlilhc,

pakalolo

Toolbag v1.1 (candidate)
Staff member
I'm also watching the vapor and it's simply not generating what it was and I've been using the same product for two months and it has worked fine until the past few days. These batteries have not been on the charger longer than 12 hours and most times taken off the charger within an hour of being fully charged. I have noticed the dimming slightly due to the resin, if you will, but this main dimming has happened all of a sudden but the main thing is that I've noticed the reduction in amount of vapor and the time it takes to get the vapor. It seems more battery related but it's hard to believe 4 batteries went bad in a month.

Try the test to see if your LB is actually running cool. If it fails the test you have a warranty claim. If it doesn't you have a problem with your technique.
 
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Quetzalcoatl

DEADY GUERRERO/DIRT COBAIN/GEORGE KUSH
so i just got a pa 2.0, and it doesnt work at all, am i doing something wrong, is it my lb? plus its a tight fit and is already peeling the matal coating of the knob




edit: scratch that, working now............does it not go to max on the +side?
It should go from one dot to another one (the 50% marker) to a third dot which is max. Mine won't go farther than that. It should be a tight fit, in any case, since the first PA had issues with the LB negative rings and making contact. I'm on my second PA.20 (first one had a failure, but it was the beta issued one...) and still haven't seen any of the metal coating coming off... I'm not doubting you at all since this isn't the first time it's been mentioned ITT, but can you snag a pic for us?


I'll try that out.
Before posting I tried on full power with a bong,I was sucking hard enough to not combust,I was really happy.
Not I'm at about 70%power and combusting,but this is with the normal glass stem while driving.

Today I'll try 60%,50%,,and if need be lower.
Are you pulling as hard as you do with the bong? I have a few different techniques depending on how I'm using my LB. With water tools, I can dial up a little higher on the temp because the pulling action of my tubes is stronger than how I would normally inhale with no water path. My PA temps are different for glass and no glass, and I figure if I were to apply the temp/tech I use for bongs for hitting my LB normally... I'd probably be combusting too. Plus with my tubes, since I use the water pipe adapter/whips, I can shake while hitting the tubes, thus making my chances of combustion lower.
 

blazenot

Well-Known Member
is there anything wrong with using a coffee grinder to get even greater surface area, provided that the nuclear material on the grinder is periodically removed?
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Dont vape radioactive material man

Better to vape it than smoke it.......

Remember, guys, everything's radioactive. Think about "Carbon 14 Dating", if it wasn't radioactive that wouldn't work. King Tut is radioactive.....still. Our bud is already 'hot' (as is every growing thing), loaded with C14 and P40 IIRC the isotopes most active?

I used to work with one of the 'big shots' in the ultra low radiation counting game. He'd check satellite stuff back from orbit and stuff. You need heavy duty shielding to do it since the world is so radioactive. He paid serious bucks to get some lead ballast bars from a several hundred year old ship wreck in the Med. He wanted it bad since it'd been shielded for centuries, protected from cosmic rays, so they shipped it to him airfreight (up where radiation is much higher than the surface.....). Got here no more 'dead' than new lead. Very upset scientist there.

Any way there's basically no such thing as 'not radioactive'.

Fun stuff.

OF
 
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Quetzalcoatl

DEADY GUERRERO/DIRT COBAIN/GEORGE KUSH
Every time. And you get laid more often, on average.......

Explains the higher price.

OF
I'll take 5! :lol:

Quick switch up from my Solo, I find the extraction process to be much faster with the PA. I missed the ritual of shaking the trench! Now for some tea and reading :D
 

blazenot

Well-Known Member
geez, guys, the "nuclear material" is the amazing stuff remaining on the sides of the grinnder.
 
blazenot,
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OF

Well-Known Member
geez, guys, the "nuclear material" is the amazing stuff remaining on the sides of the grinnder.

Ah, so! Most of us, not knowing the truth, have been calling it 'kief' for centuries now.......

To a large extent, it's made of (hopefully resin laden) "trichomes":
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trichome

These get more and more brittle as the herb dries ('cures') and through handling break off. Traditionally, low grade herb is 'screened' (often through coarse cloth) to collect this 'dust' which is then pressed into the 'brick hash' of old. This is also most of the source of the oil extracted with Butane (and other solvents) to make conventional extracts.

Good stuff, we've just gotten used to using another name.

OF
 
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