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Discontinued Vaporblunt 2.0 & VB 2.0 DLX

filteredhead

Well-Known Member
I started out using pipe cleaners which work well for quick cleaning especially when on the go. I usually try to fully de-gunkify the steel vapor tube after approx 10 loads. Best done with unit slightly warm. My procedure is ball up 2 small pieces of paper towel, one slightly moistened with a drop of ISO and the other barely damp with a drop of water. I slip the first ISO'd paper towel ball in from the mouthpiece end and push it through using the flat bottom end of a bamboo skewer and toss it out the other side. Then repeat step with the water moistened paper towel ball. The paper towel balls are just barely damp, no liquid dripping from them.
http://www.amazon.com/Charcoal-Comp...OSCU/ref=pd_luc_bxgy_01_04_t_lh?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
filteredhead,
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chosenone

New Member
I almost had a major catastrophe with my VB2.0 with DLX Showerhead attachment. I filled the piece with a little water and when I was about to take a pull all the water leaked into my VaporBlunt 2.0. The VB2.0 appears to be undamaged after the internal parts were dried. I shot off an email to the eBaa seller to see what options I have to resolve the issue. I’m hopeful I’ll be able to get it replaced after I threw away the original box.
Anyone have a similar issue with the attachment leaking?

 
chosenone,

stickstones

Vapor concierge
yeah...but after it leaks out it tends to find a level that works. in other words, i had to put water in and over do, then when the excess leaked out I found what was left in there to be adequate. just play with it. but make sure it is filled right and working before putting it on the VB2
 
stickstones,

chosenone

New Member
yeah...but after it leaks out it tends to find a level that works. in other words, i had to put water in and over do, then when the excess leaked out I found what was left in there to be adequate. just play with it. but make sure it is filled right and working before putting it on the VB2

Then it's total user error. I thought I found that right spot before I placed it on the VB. I guess I need to figure this out before attempting it again. Aside from that, this product is amazing.
 
chosenone,

TherealVaporblunt

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
The only way water can get in is through that stem inside of the shower. That is the air path, and you can fill anywhere you feel comfortable Tom the top of the cuts up as long as it doesn't go in that inner tube. Remember that tilting changes the water level
 
TherealVaporblunt,

OF

Well-Known Member
The only way water can get in is through that stem inside of the shower. That is the air path, and you can fill anywhere you feel comfortable Tom the top of the cuts up as long as it doesn't go in that inner tube. Remember that tilting changes the water level

You know to me it looks like he managed to get a siphon going? That is he was running enough water flow that the lower end filled with water driving the air out of the top of the center tube. You can see the air finally work back up at the very end, but for a bit the center and inner tubes are air free.....no 'vacuum breaker' in play?

I bet filling it slower fixes it?

OF
 

stickstones

Vapor concierge
You know to me it looks like he managed to get a siphon going? That is he was running enough water flow that the lower end filled with water driving the air out of the top of the center tube. You can see the air finally work back up at the very end, but for a bit the center and inner tubes are air free.....no 'vacuum breaker' in play?

I bet filling it slower fixes it?

OF

This describes pretty well what I have noticed.
 
stickstones,

chosenone

New Member
You know to me it looks like he managed to get a siphon going? That is he was running enough water flow that the lower end filled with water driving the air out of the top of the center tube. You can see the air finally work back up at the very end, but for a bit the center and inner tubes are air free.....no 'vacuum breaker' in play?

I bet filling it slower fixes it?

OF

Has anyone had a similar experience when filling the tube? I assume it had something to due with a pocket of air getting stuck, then creating a vortex if you slightly angle the attachment. I'm just trying to figure out if it's a user error or hardware problem. There's times when I think the water is stable and I get ready to use it and the water drains out.

I'll try a few different methods for filling the tube and see if I have the same result.

Thanks for your replies.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
I assume it had something to due with a pocket of air getting stuck, then creating a vortex if you slightly angle the attachment. I'm just trying to figure out if it's a user error or hardware problem.

Actually, I think it's just the opposite problem, no air. it's a siphon I think:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Siphon

Just like stealing gasoline. Once filled completely with water, the bottom end is lower than the top of the water column with no air for a 'vacuum breaker' so it simply drains out.

The proof will be slower filling doesn't dump out.

OF
 
OF,

filteredhead

Well-Known Member
Same behavior for me however I do not consider it a leak or anything like that. When I fill my WT to the top, most of the water drains out the bottom and the H20 level left in bottom chamber is a good level (1/4" above the star perc holes). If I want more of a chug then I slowly add a bit more water from the top to increase water level to about 1" above the perc holes.
 
filteredhead,

OF

Well-Known Member
Same behavior for me however I do not consider it a leak or anything like that. When I fill my WT to the top, most of the water drains out the bottom and the H20 level left in bottom chamber is a good level (1/4" above the star perc holes). If I want more of a chug then I slowly add a bit more water from the top to increase water level to about 1" above the perc holes.

Seems to me you could also 'fine tune' the final level this way? Overfill it, start the siphon, then tip it to one side so it 'burps air in' sooner.....the greater the angle, the higher above the openings the final level?

OF
 
OF,
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filteredhead

Well-Known Member
Yes tilting helps but I have a hard time judging the water level regardless, I find some fine tuning is always necessary by adding or removing a tiny bit of water. I do the initial overfill from top and drain thru bottom with WT mostly vertical (the way I would normally hit it), then if water level is a bit too high, I blow very lightly into the WT top to get some water to drain out the bottom. If water level is too low, then I add a bit of water from the top.
 
filteredhead,
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zourdiesel

Member
to clean mine I turn it all the way on 5 and let all the black goop drip out and push it out with a skewer. got pretty messy. thinking about getting an adapter and hooking up a hose or a whip
 
zourdiesel,
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OF

Well-Known Member
to clean mine I turn it all the way on 5 and let all the black goop drip out and push it out with a skewer. got pretty messy. thinking about getting an adapter and hooking up a hose or a whip

I think that's the key, heating it up. I don't seem to have 'black goop' to drip out (maybe strain related?) but for sure doing it cold is asking for trouble.....like poking a hole through that expensive little screen?

BTW, I'm not sure if anyone has mentioned, but if you take the two screws out of the end cap you can pull the SS tube out for easy and complete cleaning.

OF
 

D33z

Vape Newbie
to clean mine I turn it all the way on 5 and let all the black goop drip out and push it out with a skewer. got pretty messy. thinking about getting an adapter and hooking up a hose or a whip

Let us know what you come up with.

I think that's the key, heating it up. I don't seem to have 'black goop' to drip out (maybe strain related?) but for sure doing it cold is asking for trouble.....like poking a hole through that expensive little screen?

BTW, I'm not sure if anyone has mentioned, but if you take the two screws out of the end cap you can pull the SS tube out for easy and complete cleaning.

OF

I put a hole in my screen caz I wanted to try the oil can, but of course I learn things the hard way. This is exactly how I clean mine.
 
D33z,
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Jared

Cannabis Enthusiast
My experience so far after picking it up yesterday is that the concentrate attachment works absolutely PERFECTLY for hash. The herb adapter on the other hand isn't really what I was expecting. It gets me absolutely toasted but I see no clouds and it takes a long time for it to finish vaping (more than a whole session.) I don't really understand why other than maybe it being an issue with the screen being too far away from the heating element. I saw someone on another site say after replacing their original VB 2.0 screen with one from their extreme q the difference was night and day and they were getting huge clouds and loved it again. I understand I'm not going to get huge clouds like from a plugin unit, but I know it's capable because I do get clouds from the concentrate attachment.

Anyone had any experience using an extreme q screen as opposed to the one that came with it? Better? Worse? I don't want to spend 10 bucks if it's going to be exactly the same.
 
Jared,

Stu

Maconheiro
Staff member
The screens are exactly the same iirc. I wouldn't waste your money.

:peace:
 
Stu,
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filteredhead

Well-Known Member
My VB2's stock basket does not make high-friction contact with the heating element/chamber, that is good in that it makes the screens easy to remove/insert but bad in that the heat emanating from element/chamber doesn't transfer as efficiently as it could over to the basket and herb inside.

The EQ elbow screens I have look almost identical to the to VB2 basket with a few differences upon close inspection. The 2 EQ elbow screens I have are about 1mm shallower and a hair wider in diameter than the VB2 basket screen. The EQ screen is more difficult to insert into and to remove from the VB2 versus the stock VB2 basket. Maybe that little bit of friction makes a difference? I haven't tested with the EQ screens because both of mine were too tight of a fit, I worried that they would eventually break being forced in and out like that so never tried it to begin with.


Jared, along the same goal of fatter hits from the VB2, I've been testing a simple mod for this past week that so far has resulted in the VB2 delivering continuous thick visible vapor with heat retention not being a concern. The down side is that the mod restricts airflow (still better than stock Solo and Pax) and diminishes taste. The up side is that the vapor density allows me to quickly get where I want to be within a 6 minute session. Simple enough mod, just put a flat screen directly at the bottom of the heating chamber covering the vapor tube, then load .1g herb directly onto the screen and tamp down the herb by inserting the stock VB2 basket screen (empty) into the heating chamber, the basket will not sit flush as normal because of the packed herb between basket and vapor tube however the end-cap will still easily screw on, do not use the stir cap. Inserting the basket will compress the .1g (tried up to .15g) down to a flat 3/32" disc of herb (directly touching the heating element/chamber). When loading herb this way start with heat level 1 if VB2's battery level is relatively full (like at 4 or 5 blue bars); start with heat level 2 if unit's battery level is at level 2 or 3. For me the mod has made the VB2 a completely different vaporizer, it now kicks my ass as hard as the Pax and Solo when I want a quick head change session. I will keep testing however for sure after this change the VB2's herb vaping abilities is no longer wispy by any means, at higher temp settings like 3 or 4 the ABV will come out very dark. I'll post some pics soon.
 

Jared

Cannabis Enthusiast
Thanks for the info filteredhead I will definitely give that a try tomorrow. I'm really loving the concentrate attachment on this thing it's awesome, just wish I could come across some wax to test out in it.


Edit: Found a screen in my car and couldn't wait to test it. The difference is unreal! If only the designer could have come up with a better way to pack the bowl out of the box this thing would be for me absolutely perfect. Can't believe the rips I just got after using filterdhead's suggestion. They should put that in the instruction manual it really did turn it into a different device. I'm absolutely vaked.
 
As a VB2 owner I feel a bit like the red-headed stepchild of the vaporblunt family. The Pinnacle gets most of the heat but IMO doesn't begin to compare to the VB2. Also felt stonewalled when inquiring about using the Pinnacle HT with the VB2. Probably goes against marketing plan, but hewing too close to that crap is a dead end for street cred. Mods are the future, baby.
 

filteredhead

Well-Known Member
I too am interested in modifications that could make the VB2 put out more vapor than stock setup, understand there will be trade offs when making mods and am willing to take the good with the bad given I like having options for different situations and occasions.

Below are a few pictures of what I've been playing with for the past week.

The steel mesh screen on the far right is the one I place directly over the vapor tube (the brush on left effortlessly cleans VB2/VXC/EQ baskets, Pax and regular screens).
tA0MKW4.jpg


Here's that screen (on the far right in the above picture) inserted flat into the bottom of the VB2's heating chamber:
WQyOVGR.jpg


Loaded .1g of girl scout cookies directly on top of the screen:
SaRNcm2.jpg


Then insert the VB2 basket the normal way so as to tamp down the load and keep it sandwiched between the screen top and the VB2 basket bottom.
QXbEVGO.jpg

After the basket has been inserted the end-cap gets screwed on. Note that the stir-pin will be jammed/pressed up against the VB2 basket floor after the end-cap is screwed on - I make sure to not twist the stir-cap mechanism to avoid putting unnecessary pressure on the stir-pin and basket floor.

Once end-cap is screwed on, I set the unit to heat level 1, let it get to temperature and go. If unit's battery level is at 3 or less blue bars then I start with heat level 2. (It shouldn't make a difference and i may be imagining it entirely however my observations so far have been that battery level does seem to result in a noticeable ABV shade difference, more testing required here. With the VB2 battery fully charged, heat setting 3 would make some very dark ABV - must be careful as i suspect higher heat settings may cause herb to combust with this mod. Then when VB2 battery level was low at 1 or 2 blue bars then heat setting 3 would generate lighter ABV at the end of the session with same duration, something to keep in mind.)

That honeybun type tool really comes in handy for emptying the chamber afterwards.
Below is duff from .1g of cookies after a 6 minute session at heat level 1 (with mod loaded VB2 fully charged):
qDm2pEu.jpg


Below is duff from another .1g load of cookies, 8 minute session at heat level 2 (with mod loaded VB2 fully charged):
Bg9S2pK.jpg


Here is my AVB from 4 separate 12 minute sessions with .1g GSC loaded in each. Pax at medium heat setting, Solo at 4 heat setting, fully charged VB2 load mod at heat setting 3, as well as fully charged VB2 stock basket loaded at heat setting 3.
Iwo9W3w.jpg




Thanks for trying the experiment and your feedback Jared, I really appreciate it. It is great to read that the change/hack had good results for you too. Now the VB2 can get me where I like to be with one quick high-temp session with just .1g of herb, actually works well up to .15 when sharing with a friend may need to load a 2nd time. With load sizes larger than .15g, the basket sits raised even more to the point where the stir-pin starts to dig into the basket floor. Also I think the compressed herb over the vapor tube results in a more restrictive draw and quicker loss of flavor versus stock setup, however the KO hits it delivers in short order make up for it when that's what the occasion calls for. I don't mind the conduction herb roasting action as solo sessions are over quickly, since herb stays a flat disc shape stirring doesn't seem critical.

I'll keep testing away, last tests were with VXC ELB top-cap used in place of the VB2 basket to accommodate .2g loads, all worked well in sharing situation where my burner buddy and I were significantly vaked after a 10 min session. The VXC ELB top cap accommodates the stir-pin while taking up less volume than the VB2 basket therefore more herb can be loaded into the heating chamber, and the extra herb should ideally be packed to touch the upper side wall surface of the chamber. That said, I try to use the Pax for portable sessions when larger load sizes are desired.
 

TheHerbalReview

@TheHerbalReview
Here is my AVB from 4 separate 12 minute sessions with .1g GSC loaded in each. Pax at medium heat setting, Solo at 4 heat setting, fully charged VB2 load mod at heat setting 3, as well as fully charged VB2 stock basket loaded at heat setting 3.
Iwo9W3w.jpg




Thanks for trying the experiment and your feedback Jared, I really appreciate it. It is great to read that the change/hack had good results for you too. Now the VB2 can get me where I like to be with one quick high-temp session with just .1g of herb, actually works well up to .15 when sharing with a friend may need to load a 2nd time. With load sizes larger than .15g, the basket sits raised even more to the point where the stir-pin starts to dig into the basket floor. Also I think the compressed herb over the vapor tube results in a more restrictive draw and quicker loss of flavor versus stock setup, however the KO hits it delivers in short order make up for it when that's what the occasion calls for. I don't mind the conduction herb roasting action as solo sessions are over quickly, since herb stays a flat disc shape stirring doesn't seem critical.

I'll keep testing away, last tests were with VXC ELB top-cap used in place of the VB2 basket to accommodate .2g loads, all worked well in sharing situation where my burner buddy and I were significantly vaked after a 10 min session. The VXC ELB top cap accommodates the stir-pin while taking up less volume than the VB2 basket therefore more herb can be loaded into the heating chamber, and the extra herb should ideally be packed to touch the upper side wall surface of the chamber. That said, I try to use the Pax for portable sessions when larger load sizes are desired.

This is a really great report my man! Keep up the fantastic work.
 

chosenone

New Member
filteredhead: Thanks for the detailed report.Very informative!

Question: At what point do we say the device is producing carbon vs vapor? I would think a direct contact to the flowers defeats the purpose. Pardon my ignorance if I'm way off.
 
I like the slower extraction efficiency of the stock setup when it comes to roasting, but I admire this creativity. And it looks on the money for someone who wants quicker and/or darker. This is primarily a conduction device so more direct contact is not necessarily a bad or unusual thing, though I like my AVB not so spent. But it only starts to look too black for me when modded on 3.
 
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