Arizer Solo

JSteez4205

aka Gordon NugzB
I *can* get visible vapor at 5, but no earlier. On 5 it's light and impossible to finish a bowl, even 6 wouldn't feel quite "finished". 7 could honestly stand to be a bit hotter for me, if I wanted to finish a bowl quickly.

It's one of the newest models, not sure if it's worth returning yet.
I'd look into it. I just got my Solo, pretty sure it's the newer model and like ataxian said:
4 is my magic level.
but I can get thick clouds on level 3. Level 6or7 when I want a quick session through some water, or if I'm vaping oils(strictly7). No combustion at 7 so no sense in not trying, just a little harsher due to the higher heat temp.
 
JSteez4205,
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ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
I'd look into it. I just got my Solo, pretty sure it's the newer model and like ataxian said: but I can get thick clouds on level 3. Level 6or7 when I want a quick session through some water, or if I'm vaping oils(strictly7). No combustion at 7 so no sense in not trying, just a little harsher due to the higher heat temp.
I have really good portable devices.
My SOLO's are so reliable at 4 using the stock straight stems (glass).
I use my PERSIE's for Concentrates and the SOLO's are the best with Flowers.
Personally I would send it back for a new one.
When my SOLO is warmed up I set it on 3 and the flavor is amazing!
I use a stainless-steal screens in my stem without any negative effect.
 

hoptimum

Well-Known Member
I *can* get visible vapor at 5, but no earlier. On 5 it's light and impossible to finish a bowl, even 6 wouldn't feel quite "finished". 7 could honestly stand to be a bit hotter for me, if I wanted to finish a bowl quickly.

It's one of the newest models, not sure if it's worth returning yet.
blowing billows of smoke is not necessarily an indication of effectiveness in any vaporizer.
 

Heos

Member
blowing billows of smoke is not necessarily an indication of effectiveness in any vaporizer.

It is actually quite an indication of effectiveness. It's a very good indication of how many actives are being released, and consequentially how high you get. Does this mean it's the ONLY thing to pay attention to? No, but saying it's not necessarily an indication is silly. It's most definitely an indication, probably one of the best indications we have. So it's certainly one I'm going to use it to help determine the effectiveness of a vaporizer vs another vaporizer when using the same strain.

I'm of course also gauging how high I'm getting. On levels 3 and 4 I get NO vapor, and I do not get high whatsoever. This is what I'm thinking might be an issue. On 5 or 6 I can get some vapor, but not finish a bowl. It's not necessarily the lack of vapor at those temps that concerns me (although it does concern me, and should), but the fact I need to be on 7 to complete a bowl and even then I find it difficult.
 
Heos,
It is actually quite an indication of effectiveness. It's a very good indication of how many actives are being released, and consequentially how high you get. Does this mean it's the ONLY thing to pay attention to? No, but saying it's not necessarily an indication is silly. It's most definitely an indication, probably one of the best indications we have. So it's certainly one I'm going to use it to help determine the effectiveness of a vaporizer vs another vaporizer when using the same strain.

I'm of course also gauging how high I'm getting. On levels 3 and 4 I get NO vapor, and I do not get high whatsoever. This is what I'm thinking might be an issue. On 5 or 6 I can get some vapor, but not finish a bowl. It's not necessarily the lack of vapor at those temps that concerns me (although it does concern me, and should), but the fact I need to be on 7 to complete a bowl and even then I find it difficult.
Like I said before none of us know what the issue is. The best you can do to tell/show us is to post a vid or you using it.
 
VapeNStone,

hoptimum

Well-Known Member
It is actually quite an indication of effectiveness. It's a very good indication of how many actives are being released, and consequentially how high you get. Does this mean it's the ONLY thing to pay attention to? No, but saying it's not necessarily an indication is silly. It's most definitely an indication, probably one of the best indications we have. So it's certainly one I'm going to use it to help determine the effectiveness of a vaporizer vs another vaporizer when using the same strain.

I'm of course also gauging how high I'm getting. On levels 3 and 4 I get NO vapor, and I do not get high whatsoever. This is what I'm thinking might be an issue. On 5 or 6 I can get some vapor, but not finish a bowl. It's not necessarily the lack of vapor at those temps that concerns me (although it does concern me, and should), but the fact I need to be on 7 to complete a bowl and even then I find it difficult.
From MFLB:
Any vapor that is visible on exhale is wasted, therefore, by definition any device that produces visible vapor on exhale is categorically less efficient than one that does not. As such then, the ideal vapor density is exactly that which can be adsorbed by the lungs in a natural/comfortable interval of time -- usually between 3 to 5 seconds. As long as one breathes deeply, lungs are fairly efficient at adsorbtion (for most people, better than 95% uptake in 5 seconds); however, there is a limit, and vapor densities higher than that simply do not achieve as much for the volume of materials consumed.

Given the choice between having something look good vs building something that actually works, Magic-Flight definitely prefer the "works" option. Having visible vapor is also particularly a disadvantage if one is trying to be stealthy. Further, visibility is especially bad since it also implies higher levels of smell as well -- even less stealthy, and in a worse way. Magic-Flight finds it especially ironic to find people asking if the Box can produce visible vapor on exhale -- as if that were a good thing! Magic-Flight worked hard to optimize the Box to make it easy to deliver results without that sort of ephemera.

Also, the degree of visibility of vapor is also dependent on how hot the material was heated (ie, which components are extracted and/or created). Hotter might create more visibility, but this is also not always a good thing since it usually implies either some degree of free condensation (mist) and/or the creation of particulate matter (smoke) -- both of which are bad. True vapor is like a gaseous solution -- it should be clear, and therefore invisible. People who speak of seeing a "milky white vapor" are actually talking about a mist that shares space with a vapor -- a result of changes in temperature more than anything else (like fog at night).
 

Dreamerr

Always in a state of confusion and silliness♀
Although I agree with everything you said hoptimum that isn't the case with the solo in question. Since we all get visible vapor at certain levels. This is just showing there is something wrong with his unit since that is the way, good or bad, that the unit operates with most users.
 
Dreamerr,

hoptimum

Well-Known Member
Although I agree with everything you said hoptimum that isn't the case with the solo in question. Since we all get visible vapor at certain levels. This is just showing there is something wrong with his unit since that is the way, good or bad, that the unit operates with most users.
I don't disagree, Dreamerr, i get visible vapor from the solo as well, especially as I raise the temperature level. I don 't get a lot of visible vapor at low temps, however, but that doesnt mean its not producing vapor. If i keep the solo at the 3 setting throughout the session I can get very baked even though I don't see billowing clouds. It does sound as if his unit might have some heating problems, though.
 
hoptimum,
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Dreamerr

Always in a state of confusion and silliness♀
As we know they can all be keyed in a bit different...margin of error. To me I get big clouds on three although I don't want any. When I first was learning I got none on three. Now I just take my normal smaller 5 - 10 second draws and all is good but still visible vapor. Three is a wonderful level for me. Maybe I will try two and see what happens. I don't recall doing that and am not sure of the proposed temp at two hmmmmmmmmm...
 
Dreamerr,

hoptimum

Well-Known Member
As we know they can all be keyed in a bit different...margin of error. To me I get big clouds on three although I don't want any. When I first was learning I got none on three. Now I just take my normal smaller 5 - 10 second draws and all is good but still visible vapor. Three is a wonderful level for me. Maybe I will try two and see what happens. I don't recall doing that and am not sure of the proposed temp at two hmmmmmmmmm...
I like the flavor a lot better on the lower settings. Its a very clean taste with the solo. First draw on 3 for me is pretty light, but after a few slow draws the herb seems to heat up a bit with more visible vapor. Regarding your point about temperature variations, i wonder how much variation there is, model to model or unit to unit.
 
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Heos

Member
Hoptimum I'm not sure you understand me. I'm not necessarily talking about vapor I'm exhaling (although that too), but also vapor in the bong while milking. The actives are visible, so while the low temp actives are still activated at temps that might not produce much visible vapor, these also arent high enough temps to finish a bowl. I understand that exhaling can be wasteful, which is why I practice rebreathing the vapor. But having no vapor at all is quite wasteful too, which is what was occuring. This is no longer the case. Attaching my ashcatcher for clearance I can connect my solo with the new stem to my bong and get excellent hits at 6 or 7. I actually get decent ones at 5, but it seems to run hotter for me in a bong than it does dry, probably due to the increased pull.

And as for my ABV, while dry and on 7 I can get it to a consistent but medium-light brown. It's not terrible, but sometimes takes a little long to get there. Through my bong I've been able to get it darker, and in fewer hits, starting on 5 for the first hit, then 6 for the next two, then 7 to finish for 2-4 hits, with preheating inbetween each one.
 
Heos,

Dreamerr

Always in a state of confusion and silliness♀
:hmm: I really have no idea but I know some guys around here have more then one solo and a heat gun. I think more of a factor would be the herb. I would guess they all get to a different temp depending on variations in moisture which can never be exactly the same even if the same strain two days in a row IMO. My body holds different amounts of water throughout the day and can vary greatly depending on the weather and what I eat. I would imagine it would be that much different for plant matter, your dresser or most things that can absorb moisture. I am just guessing.

I am really liking my trueflow these last few days. I chucked it in my water cup and now the water tastes like weed hehe. I find that when I do that it will last all day more so then when I put it in the tube with water which makes zero sense. Maybe it is the volume of water in the cup and the ice which is in there most of the time. I am going to cut a small piece of tubing to connect the trueflow to the solo and see what it does.
 
Dreamerr,

wootze

Well-Known Member
I use a mobius matrix nano w/PV gong and solo @7. 7 milky clouds. Abv this side of black.

W/o h2o, start fine grind in pvhves stem @ 5. 12 solid clouds, dark brown abv.

There is some psychology in clouds

Somehow all the above sounds so profoundly inane, ima post it
 
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spektrall

New Member
Sorry if this has already been covered in the thread, but if it has, I haven't been able to find where...

I'm importing a solo into Australia that's listed as "the latest revision by arizer M1X (M108) M107". To plug this in will I need a simple power adapter to fit into an Australian socket, or will I need something to convert the actual voltage? I don't want to end up like the Aussie near the start of this thread who plugged his in at work and set his desk on fire.
 
spektrall,

Frederick McGuire

Aggressively Loungey
A simple adapter will work fine.

A tip I got from another member which I've done is slightly twist the American prongs, they have enough play that you can turn them to our angle:)
I'll see if I can find a pic

Edit:

Hey Frederick this is what I have done to all my chargers solo,MFLB inc and it works really well.Got fed up with loose adapters and the hassle.Just catch the prongs with your e pliers and turn slowly and just enough at your e own risk of course but hey.I havent had any fail yet and Ive even done my wifes Kindle.
the mflb pins wont fold into the charger anymore but hey Im not concerned.It works beautifully in a wall socket now.Best of luck
20120407095813.jpg

Thanks again u bwade, I'm glad I was able to rid myself of one more adapter :lol:
 
Frederick McGuire,

X24

Well-Known Member
Hoptimum I'm not sure you understand me. I'm not necessarily talking about vapor I'm exhaling (although that too), but also vapor in the bong while milking. The actives are visible, so while the low temp actives are still activated at temps that might not produce much visible vapor, these also arent high enough temps to finish a bowl. I understand that exhaling can be wasteful, which is why I practice rebreathing the vapor. But having no vapor at all is quite wasteful too, which is what was occuring. This is no longer the case. Attaching my ashcatcher for clearance I can connect my solo with the new stem to my bong and get excellent hits at 6 or 7. I actually get decent ones at 5, but it seems to run hotter for me in a bong than it does dry, probably due to the increased pull.

And as for my ABV, while dry and on 7 I can get it to a consistent but medium-light brown. It's not terrible, but sometimes takes a little long to get there. Through my bong I've been able to get it darker, and in fewer hits, starting on 5 for the first hit, then 6 for the next two, then 7 to finish for 2-4 hits, with preheating inbetween each one.


Admittedly, I've only read a couple of posts about your issue but I think your issue is using water filtration. Anytime I use my Solo with a water piece, I find it needs to be turned to 5+. Water pieces allow more airflow and the higher temp is necessary to compensate.

Edit: And there goes my theory. If you aren't getting good vapor production hitting it dry on 3 or 4, I'm not sure the issue anymore.
 
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Xchadb

@Brownglass
Glass Blower
just thought id share an old stem i found, its a reg 14mm gong stem! haha its the only 14mm thing i have that fits this bubbler

 
Xchadb,

bochen

Well-Known Member
I've received my Solo today. It's been charging for almost 5 hours now and I can't turn it on if it's unplugged...

When plugged into the charger it beeps then displays the blue idle light and a moment after that the red power down led switches on.

Then the green power led starts flashing, but the red led stays on most of the time (it sometimes goes off then immediately back on).


During charging the 1-7 leds started to turn on sucessively but it's been at 7 for almost 2 hours now.

Also the light from green and red power leds "spills over" and can be seen shining though the gaps for heat, up, and down leds. Is it supposed to be so, or is it indication of mechanical damage of some sort?


There is a red led turned on on the charger all the time (when it's plugged to the power source ofk).

I still cannot turn the unit on - it goes blank immediately after unplugging the charger.

I have already contacted my retailer, but maybe somebody can help here?

Sorry to double post - forgot to mention the model is M1A3


Mod note: When possible, please avoid making back-to-back posts in a thread. Use the Edit feature located at the bottom of your posts. You have 6 hours to do this. Posts merged.

Yeah.. I was looking for the edit button but I swear it wasn't there then :o
 
bochen,

bochen

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the reply - but what about the 1-7 leds? When I started charging no (or only the "1" -can't remember) led was lit, now all the 1-7 leds are lit after it's plugged.

Also I've now noticed that the during startup it actually beeps, then lits the led near "7" (that's full battery indication right?) then the "7" led goes off. Next idle and red power led turn on, then all the 1-7 leds also turn and and the power leds (both red and green) start blinking.

To me it seems to point to circuitry or firmware problem with the unit, not a charger problem.

Yes, the charger has a red light turned always when I plug it to power source -- regardless if its charging or not (also tried plugging to different outlets, just in case).

Also if that matter I'm in Europe so I use the outlet adapter that was mailed together with the unit.
 
bochen,

hoptimum

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the reply - but what about the 1-7 leds? When I started charging no (or only the "1" -can't remember) led was lit, now all the 1-7 leds are lit after it's plugged.

Also I've now noticed that the during startup it actually beeps, then lits the led near "7" (that's full battery indication right?) then the "7" led goes off. Next idle and red power led turn on, then all the 1-7 leds also turn and and the power leds (both red and green) start blinking.

To me it seems to point to circuitry or firmware problem with the unit, not a charger problem.

Yes, the charger has a red light turned always when I plug it to power source -- regardless if its charging or not (also tried plugging to different outlets, just in case).

Also if that matter I'm in Europe so I use the outlet adapter that was mailed together with the unit.
are you sure you didn't get an american charger 110 volt by mistake instead of a european 220 volt? If you have the proper charger and it's still not charging, it might be the firmware of your solo. While mine is plugged in and fully charged all the lights are on, including the 7 leds. When I unplug it all the lights go off until I push the up and down buttons simultaneously. then the 7 goes on for a second and goes off, with the idle light staying on until i push the up button to set the temperature
 
hoptimum,
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