Discontinued The Persei Vaporizer for herbs and concentrates.

kevin

Well-Known Member
If you allow vapor to collect inside and when it cools down will just gum things up.

You can hear it up for about 7 seconds and it should be ready to vape, this is once the tank is primed.
G
Thanks what I was talking about not drawing on it during warmup time to prime the tank, then once primed it works great!
G it seems as if I'm drawing oil though the air holes to the outside of the tube that holds the tank.
It looks like it's going though the two small holes in tube then running down the outside of the heater core tube and puddles on the threads, IMO, this is happening when oil is getting hot but not vapor yet (runny) . I'm not drawing hard at all just like on old carts, I can hear it bubbling sometimes and then they will clog when cool even if I draw and cool it down, clear in secs. Maybe it's overflowing when to hot I don't know.
Any pointers on stopping this or will it all vape just get it hotter? Good thing I only have two sets of batteries for this or I would never get anything done!:mmmm::zzz:
Thanks
Kevin

Edit: G is it normal for the Tank element (stone inside) to move freely inside the Tank? I have some that move up and down and ones that don't, does it matter, will this make it leak from the bottom of tank?
 
kevin,

kevin

Well-Known Member
Now that being said if your smoking the flowers then no mixing is needed as its going to all combust anyways.

G
To help getting vapor from my flowers and not just smoke because it is about impossible to not combust your herb no matter how fast you are with the power button.
So I took a small piece of screen and pushed it down the tube to the top of heater rod, then loaded herb on top, no oil tank, small load but, this seems to really help get vapor for a few draws but in the end combustion!:doh: I should have stired it up!
So what if you made us a screen that would screw in between the heater tube and the tank tube this would keep herbs off heater rod and give us much more control, then we could unsrcew the tube, take out the screen and then use it for oil again??
Maybe I should just learn how to vape oil right first before I reinvent the wheel.:lol:
Just my :2c: G.
Thanks
Kevin
 

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
Loving my Hercules cart so far. It delivers phenomenal and full bodied flavor. I think I need to upgrade to aw imr batteries because I feel it could heat up quicker, currently I'm using stock trustfires. Actually, I think the long warm up time/priming is because my oil is pretty much shatter and very hard. A more viscous oil would vape a lot quicker than a very stable oil. Crumble or wax seems like the easiest to load. A capsule of pg would be a
incredible I'm sure, wish I could try some!

I have the upgraded batteries coming to replace my Trust Fires.
I did some Flowers yesterday and I was STONED for over 4 hours.
In my HERB Vaporizer it vaporizes the Flowers and I get 10 hits.
The same amount of material I only got two or three massive hits that wiped me out.
I was stone most of the day, I think I will stick to waxes.
I want to try HASH in one of the tanks.
The Brittle, Crumbled and drier waxes work really well.
It does go through material a bit faster than a cart.
However I get super medicated.

FLOWERS = The HERCULES is like taking shots of single malt scotch.
WAXES = are like having a Conqac after a good meal with the HERCULES.

The HERCULES does have it's place.
 
ataxian,

mephisto

Well-Known Member
I have been able to try both qwiso shatter and full melt in the Herc. So far, the consistency
of my extracts have kept them from effectively soaking into the ceramic tank. I did get a few
small hits as the actives vaporised. The herc seems much better suited to thinner oils (PG)
as G has mentioned. I look forward to changes in the tanks to accept "dirtier" extracts. If there
are any early adopters still waiting to grab a Herc, please feel free to shoot me a pm. I will be
sending all of my recent Herc acquisitions to better homes. The battery life is a huge concern
for me as well. My AW imr cells seem to get exhausted rather quickly. No slander to the D9
crew, the Herc is very well made, definitely a top shelf item. I do not have the right "fuel for the
furnace" as it were.....
 
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OF

Well-Known Member
G
To help getting vapor from my flowers and not just smoke because it is about impossible to not combust your herb no matter how fast you are with the power button.
So I took a small piece of screen and pushed it down the tube to the top of heater rod, then loaded herb on top, no oil tank, small load but, this seems to really help get vapor for a few draws but in the end combustion!:doh: I should have stired it up!

Sorry, not to laugh at you of course, but your frustration sound a lot like the guys fighting RAW and the rest trying to get the gear to do something isn't not really set up for.

Let me suggest another starting point, lower the voltage. Switching to RCR123As (for a 6.0 Volt battery) will drop the power a fair bit. A quick measure of my unit and some back of the envelope calculations shows heater power to run from about 35 Watts 'hot off the charger' to 25 or so when the battery takes a dive. The LiFePOs, OTOH, would run a pretty flat 24 Watts. It should be a lot easier to control you'd think? IMO producing less heat is a better way than trying to shield against too much? And stable output should favor getting consistent results.

Good luck with it, please keep us posted, I'm sure many of us are interested. TIA.

OF
 
OF,

tharealmclovin

Well-Known Member
G, I have the first herc casualty.

FA14CC7D-CDD5-47DA-A7A0-943E41CA7C25-9169-00000587ED5CD03C.jpg


EE369680-09A3-4455-A634-C335C290838B-9169-00000587F7C746C0.jpg
 
tharealmclovin,

OF

Well-Known Member
G, I have the first herc casualty.

Bummer. But at least you win the prize for first......

I can't see from the photo, but it looks like the connector is pressed into the plastic? Are those ribs running the log way intended to hold by displaced material? You might get it going again by carefully aligning stuff and pressing the connector back in straight.

Glues aren't going to do much good here I think, what with different materials and heat, mechanical attachment has to be the way.

I hope this is not the start of a trend.....we don't need more of this.

Thanks for the posting, I'm taking it very easy on that connector until further news. Given the configuration you can get a lot of leverage going on that connection.....

OF
 
OF,

tharealmclovin

Well-Known Member
It still works 100% just falls off every so often. It's my GF's when it falls off she just presses it back together. But I have a feeling those wires will take a beating after awhile.
 
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Puffers

Micro-Climate Mastermind
I have been able to try both qwiso shatter and full melt in the Herc. So far, the consistency of my extracts have kept them from effectively soaking into the ceramic tank. I did get a few
small hits as the actives vaporised.

That's too bad I was really hoping it would handle water extracts I find them very tasty and they are cheap around here :lol: I guess i will just have to see how it fares with herb at 6v.
 
Puffers,

Bob Loblaw

Astralnaut
I have been able to try both qwiso shatter and full melt in the Herc. So far, the consistency
of my extracts have kept them from effectively soaking into the ceramic tank.
try melting ur qwiso down into the steel sponge by holding it w/ proper tool and
heating it gently. let us know if that works.
 
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OF

Well-Known Member
try melting ur qwiso down into the steel sponge by holding it w/ proper tool and
heating it gently. let us know if that works.

Funny you should mention that, Bob. I was looking at mine yesterday and wondering if putting the cart on top of a light bulb for a bit might heat all that metal up well before loading and make it easier? I was planning to balance it on the bulb then pluck it off with hemostats (can't use them for roach clips any more, I seem to be fresh out of roaches these days....).

When I get to it I think I may try that as kind of a controlled heating....even if my heart is more of the 'blast it with the lighter until it screams' camp.

Exciting times with so much keen new gear to pick through if you asked me. Even if you didn't ask....

OF
 

Zingbuddah

Vaporologist
It still works 100% just falls off every so often. It's my GF's when it falls off she just presses it back together. But I have a feeling those wires will take a beating after awhile.

Come on....nobody's going to take a swing at this one? "still works 100% of the time but falls off" lol....

Seriously though, what material is the base made of? I've had similar problems with other non-420 devices that use this method and usually it was related to the heat transferred to the insert (think of antennas in cramped quarters)

If it is a press fit I guess we will have to practice a little TLC...still takes more of a beating than the Bender.

Sooooooo...anyone else on the PV wait list and drooling at everyone who has the Herc already?

-Z
 

kindbeats

Terps Up, Temps Down
Come on....nobody's going to take a swing at this one? "still works 100% of the time but falls off" lol....

Seriously though, what material is the base made of? I've had similar problems with other non-420 devices that use this method and usually it was related to the heat transferred to the insert (think of antennas in cramped quarters)

If it is a press fit I guess we will have to practice a little TLC...still takes more of a beating than the Bender.

Sooooooo...anyone else on the PV wait list and drooling at everyone who has the Herc already?

-Z

I'm on the D9 waiting list and am dehydrated from all of the drooling. :mmmm:
 
kindbeats,

Bob Loblaw

Astralnaut
Funny you should mention that, Bob. I was looking at mine yesterday and wondering if putting the cart on top of a light bulb for a bit might heat all that metal up well before loading and make it easier? I was planning to balance it on the bulb then pluck it off with hemostats (can't use them for roach clips any more, I seem to be fresh out of roaches these days....).

When I get to it I think I may try that as kind of a controlled heating....even if my heart is more of the 'blast it with the lighter until it screams' camp.

Exciting times with so much keen new gear to pick through if you asked me. Even if you didn't ask....

OF
yea, hemostats are my weapon of choice. got a straight pair and a curved pair. second works best imo for this as you can pull the tank out of the herc easier with them.
in regards to new gear, tell me about it. not quite as lucky as you, but i also got my glass sherlock for my m420 and my bubbler for my i420 (incredibowls). those plus the herc and i'm in break-in overload. poor me, lol
 
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OF

Well-Known Member
i'm in break-in overload. poor me, lol

Yeah, but we know you. You're a real trouper for sure, no doubt you'll soldier on in spite of it.

And you never burden your friends with your troubles.....I really respect that in you...... The world needs more like you Bob, ready to put out the extra effort for the team and all.

OF
 

NoddingDonkey

Oil, Glass & I'm a bit of an ass
I wasn't going to say anything because G is totally taking care of me but my Herc is also dead due to verified production defect, and not the unscrewing shown above. Pretty sure I got the first Herc period so I assume that means 3 out of the first 5 are already dead (quoting a stat posted above me that said 2 for 5)

The ceramic heater (and it's base) move around and allow liquid to leak in to where those wires are, this is why I could only get a few massive hits before my Herc seemed to be "running on empty." My glob dripped through the screen slowly and if I was not hard on the button I got very little smoke because what didn't vape immediately leaked in to the internals (and later boiled out enough to make a sauce pan very sticky). Hence I developed a method of use that gave myself 1-3 massive hits before my tank fills went subterranean on me in the heater internals. This also caused me to question the efficiency of the Herc more and more with each new tank I loaded. My first load was the absolute tits, and probably because the floor had not moved yet. I am anxiously anticipating Monday when I will hopefully receive a working unit. My video reviews are of a DEFECTIVE HERC and I will edit the post to include that detail.

It sucks to buy something and have to return in, but I blame China 100% and G is doing a damn fine job keeping me a satisfied customer. I expect way better results on Monday.

Regarding the person who asked about the stainless mesh moving inside the tanks; I have a few doing that too. G said it is no biggie / not a production issue as they use no glue.
 
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mephisto

Well-Known Member
It seems that the tank innards need to move in order to allow the ceramic heater to fit into the
bottom of the cartridge. I find that I have to keep pressing the "screen" down in its tube in order
to allow the heater to travel fully up into the tank. If the rod does not go all the way into its recess,
the unit will not heat correctly and you will be recharging batts at a furious pace. Just my findings,
still quite new to this device. I have tried heating the tank in order to shorten the warmup time.
This does allow the extract to soak the material and your power can be used to vape instead of
being used to prime. Thanks to the posters (thats you, Bob) who suggested the preheat method.....still testing....
 
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kevin

Well-Known Member
Sorry, not to laugh at you of course, but your frustration sound a lot like the guys fighting RAW and the rest trying to get the gear to do something isn't not really set up for.

Let me suggest another starting point, lower the voltage. Switching to RCR123As (for a 6.0 Volt battery) will drop the power a fair bit. A quick measure of my unit and some back of the envelope calculations shows heater power to run from about 35 Watts 'hot off the charger' to 25 or so when the battery takes a dive. The LiFePOs, OTOH, would run a pretty flat 24 Watts. It should be a lot easier to control you'd think? IMO producing less heat is a better way than trying to shield against too much? And stable output should favor getting consistent results.

Good luck with it, please keep us posted, I'm sure many of us are interested. TIA.

OF
Hi OF
I don't have the batteries here to run at six volts, I was hoping for the Iris to come at the same time so I was trying to saving money.:rofl:I will have to make an order I guess, OF, DubC is comming over today to watch football and try out Hercules and work out some Bender problems your more than welcome to come over if you want (Tracy) and help us burn down the house, the wife is gone so the mice will play. I'll send phone info if you want, nothing like last minute.
Kevin
 
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THC SCIENTIFIC

To Boldly Go Where No One Has Gone Before
Manufacturer
Mephisto please call me on Monday ill get you situated.


Guys the stainless steel plate that absorbs the liquid is made to move and come out, this is done to make sure we can switch it out to different microns for different liquids and to be fully cleaned.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Regarding the person who asked about the stainless mesh moving inside the tanks; I have a few doing that too. G said it is no biggie / not a production issue as they use no glue.

It seems that the tank innards need to move in order to allow the ceramic heater to fit into the
bottom of the cartridge. I find that I have to keep pressing the "screen" down in its tube in order
to allow the heater to travel fully up into the tank. If the rod does not go all the way into its recess,
the unit will not heat correctly and you will be recharging batts at a furious pace.

First off OM, thanks very much for the report. Absent an agreement with D9 I think it's a good thing for us to share our honest opinions and experiences with each other. Please continue to do so?

I think you raised an interesting point which Mep fleshes out well. Having the base of the tank shift up is not a trivial thing. It can lead, one would think, to poor performance an leaks as it cycles in temperature. While glue is of course out there's an industry standard practice called 'shrink fit' that should fix this in it's tracks. It involves making the core slightly oversize (or the tube under size) then heating the tube while you freeze the core (typically with dry ice or liquid nitrogen) and drop it into place. As soon as the temperatures are normal it's in there for good. No leaks around it for sure. No shifting. This is sometimes combined with knurling the inner wall to put some real teeth into it, but that's no doubt overkill here.

It might be a careful center punch prick or two on the tube would anchor it down?

Something to watch out for. Thanks for the heads up.

Hi OF
I don't have the batteries here to run at six volts, I was hoping for the Iris to come at the same time so I was trying to saving money.:rofl:I will have to make an order I guess, OF, DubC is comming over today to watch football and try out Hercules and work out some Bender problems your more than welcome to come over if you want (Tracy) and help us burn down the house, the wife is gone so the mice will play.

Wow, thanks very much for the invite, but I can't swing it. I'm not big on football anyway, although I do understand your wanting someone to help watch DubC. He's sneaky, he can take some serious watching for sure. At least the wife is safe......

Hey, I've got an idea. Just give your gear and stash to DubC. He can bring it back, he and I can get together and do the testing for you later in the week..... We'll email you the results.

Guys the stainless steel plate that absorbs the liquid is made to move and come out, this is done to make sure we can switch it out to different microns for different liquids and to be fully cleaned.

Fine if you say so, it's your baby. I still don't think the plate shifting around is a good idea. I'm assuming the tendency is to get pushed up meaning poorer heat transfer? You can check for it, of course but it's also likely to shift on loading/use? Is it possible it could stick on the rod and 'have the bottom fall out' when you went to remove the cart? That would harsh my mellow I bet.....

OF[/quote]
 
OF,

kevin

Well-Known Member
Mephisto please call me on Monday ill get you situated.


Guys the stainless steel plate that absorbs the liquid is made to move and come out, this is done to make sure we can switch it out to different microns for different liquids and to be fully cleaned.

Cool G can I order a steel plate w/larger microns for waxes? It takes a very long time to prime and seems to need priming everytime when cool.
Maybe a new Accessories kit with different micron plates?

Kevin
 
kevin,

kevin

Well-Known Member
Hey, I've got an idea. Just give your gear and stash to DubC. He can bring it back, he and I can get together and do the testing for you later in the week..... We'll email you the results.
OF
Hey OF don't laugh to hard if we don't work out my problems w/Bender I just may do that!

Kevin
 
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