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Discontinued ThermoVape

Cinnamonster

Well-Known Member
Not to worry, you're far from being alone there. There's a lot of confusion, plenty for everyone.

I can't say what's official for TV, I don't work for them. I hang out there sometimes, stick my nose in where I'm welcome, and test some gear for them when asked. They definitely don't 'tell me everything' or even very much not told the public at all. Often it's strictly 'need to know'. For instance I know they're working on a bigger battery supply, but I honestly don't know what shape it will be or what battery....all I know for sure is it will fit in with the existing products. They're very big on that 'family' stuff.

I do know they're tying to support end user experiments like Pipe's. They even asked me if I thought an 'experimenter model' was a good idea but we couldn't tie down what that might be (higher voltage? Lower power for longer battery life?). I know Pipes and they are working together, they loaned me their copy of his unit.

The Pipes unit is not regulated. Neither are the PD and the other log vapes AFAIK. What's more it has a fair bit of 'source resistance' that is the output voltage drops under load, the bigger the load (more power) the bigger the drop (and therefore safer from an overvoltage standpoint). Batteries don't do this as much, at least the ones useful to us. This (source resistance) is the reason some of the attractive 'better' batteries (higher mAh ratings) aren't a good idea for us. They won't give us serious power on demand but rather modest levels for long times.

All this means that a system like Pipes is using is going to be 'tuned' for one load level. It's going to give the right (6 Volts for SV) voltage for that load, but lower ones for heavier loads and (more importantly) higher voltage for lower current loads. If it's right for T1 it will be too high for Evolution and higher still for Revolution. And even higher with no load in fact. Regulated supplies correct for this which is why the Jameco unit is probably a better option where it will work (all SV units except T1).

I can't speak for TV or Pipes, but IMO Pipe's adapter cable (correctly installed) will plug into the Jameco supply and give good service for Evolution, Revolution and DART. At least so far.

From my brief look at the Pipes unit it seems to me it's probably also good when correctly matched to the load. Start plugging lower current devices in (Evolution, Revolution, DART, the e-cig stuff) and I'm betting you start blowing heaters. We know from our Omicron experiences 'hot off the charger' can be a problem, using this guy on low current loads when it's tuned for T1 is 'smoking hot' off the charger. On steroids, with turbocharging. If it doesn't blow up, it could be a great ride. But......

Confusing enough?

Hopefully it'll get a little clearer with some more testing. But right now I've got fairly high confidence the Jameco supply is a good match for most of the TV SV devices. Perhaps someday TV will introduce an interface but for now the best way to connect that supply to the Evolution or other device is the Pipes adapter.

"Aside from that, how was the play, Mrs. Lincoln?". Quick trivia freaks, anyone know the name of the play?

OF

OUR AMERICAN COUSIN. Just when I become extremely satisfied with what I have, I read this... I'm considering getting the T1 now... or at least some SV attachments...
 
Cinnamonster,
For instance I know they're working on a bigger battery supply, but I honestly don't know what shape it will be or what battery....all I know for sure is it will fit in with the existing products.

OF

This sounds promising.
 
Futuretvowner,

OF

Well-Known Member
Great website OF, thanks, got my wheels turning.

You're very welcome. Jameco has got a LOT of my money over the years. They're 20 miles (and $5 toll) away, very dangerous when you need stuff quick. Fast shipment, I don't ever recall getting a bad anything from them. Digikey and Brill are also useful.

OF
 

OF

Well-Known Member
OUR AMERICAN COUSIN. Just when I become extremely satisfied with what I have, I read this... I'm considering getting the T1 now... or at least some SV attachments...

Full points.

Nothing wrong with being satisfied, is there? T1 is very nice, IMO, different than Evolution. Each has it's good points. If you hold on a week or two I bet options will be better defined. My 'take' right now is this is a good start but will cover most of the in one voltage only. Based on my modest experience testing T1 cores, 20 Watts (the most this supply will deliver under ideal conditions) is not going to feed the bulldog. We need closer to 30 Watts, five Amps at 6 Volts, not 3 and change. That is likely to cost more bucks and not be here as soon.

But you might want to start saving your lunch money......

OF
 

Cinnamonster

Well-Known Member
Do I win anything???????????

And nah, nothing wrong with being satisfied. It just makes me want more TV products... I know I shouldn't get more though. Especially now since you're suggesting to "hold on a week or two" due to the possibility of more options. I guess I shouldn't look too much into a PA at the moment; there's a bigger battery supply in the horizon.
 
Cinnamonster,

OF

Well-Known Member
Do I win anything???????????

And nah, nothing wrong with being satisfied. It just makes me want more TV products... I know I shouldn't get more though. Especially now since you're suggesting to "hold on a week or two" due to the possibility of more options. I guess I shouldn't look too much into a PA at the moment; there's a bigger battery supply in the horizon.

Be careful not to read too much into this.....I've no idea about when or what a bigger battery supply might be. Only that it's being looked into. It might never happen, unlikely as that might be, for all I know. What I'm saying is I hope within a week to be suggesting Evolution over T1 (already happening with me, due to no stirring and longer battery life) and SV over my current LV suggestion for new buyers as I think we'll be able to add a PA option to the list at some level. I think that would interest folks even if they don't go for it right off, knowing it was a done deal if they wanted it could play into buying decisions.

If your passion runs to bigger batteries (which I personally question over spares in the other pocket.....), the PA option might not interest you?

IMO too many rumor hungry guys looking for clues these days. I understand it but I hate giving folks false expectations.....

OF
 
OF,

Bart

Well-Known Member
If you buy a sv evo can you get an lv heater core and swap voltages or do you need complete units?
 
Bart,

OF

Well-Known Member
If you buy a sv evo can you get an lv heater core and swap voltages or do you need complete units?

You need core, batteries and charger for them if you go that way. If you start out with the LV unit, same deal (need a SV core and two 3.0 Volt batteries to run it) but the charger that came with the LV will also charge the SV battery (but not the other way around, the SV charger is 3.0 Volts only).

Covers, mouthpieces, supply body and all the rest interchange.

OF
 
OF,

Bart

Well-Known Member
Cool, I knew I had to change my batts. Just making sure everything else was compatible. Before I ordered.
Why does it seem I can buy an evo core , body and mouthpiece separately and come out cheaper than buying assembled cartridge.
 
Bart,

Bart

Well-Known Member
If I get an evolution body, a heater core and A smooth flow moisture tip would I have all I need. I've got power supply covered
 
Bart,

OF

Well-Known Member
If I get an evolution body, a heater core and A smooth flow moisture tip would I have all I need. I've got power supply covered

Are you sure? I'd say the vast majority of guys that started out thinking that ended up backtracking, often looking at blown gear as part of the price of the education. Evolution is a much bigger load than dual coil atomizers. If you don't have that wired down real tight I'd suggest research.

OF
 
OF,

jambandphan03

in flavor country
@ Bart: If you buy the parts separately, you need a mouth piece, the outer cover sleeve, the heat core, and the O ring to have a complete EVO TOP. The smooth flow would make a good mouth piece for sure. They sell the O ring in a pack of all the different sized O rings they use (it's the RED one for the Evo) It keeps the cap from falling off, and seals the bottom. Do you already have a TV battery casing, what did you plan to use to power it, and what voltage do you want to use? You might also want the insulated interface to help absorb the heat and complete the look of the Evo.
 
jambandphan03,

Bart

Well-Known Member
I recently won a persei. I think it'll handle the load but oil impossible to find here. Need something for flowers till the 8 comes out. Or you could just mail the one your testing. This is fascinating stuff. Been on ecigs awhile. Them w9 and thermotravis came over to vapeatron and got hold of my other combustion habit. So here I am learning a whole new game.
 
Bart,

Bart

Well-Known Member
By the way. Hi y'all I'm Bart been reading a few days. Too much info here so I had to start with the noob questions. Appreciate the help.
 
Bart,

jambandphan03

in flavor country
ah, yeah, the Persei seems to be able to handle the load with the Evo for folks who have posted about it here recently. You could go w/ either voltage. I would say the 3.7v would probably do best for the Persei since it can run the 18650 battery. I read good things about how it lasts a bit longer than the 17670 that TV has right now. I think it works out to be only few dollars difference if you piece together the Evo rather than getting the one that is already put together. You will also need the adapter that D-9 or PlanetVapes sells to run the Evo on the Persei. It converts the M601 (persei) threads to a 510 (TV) threads.
 
jambandphan03,
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Bart

Well-Known Member
I've got the adapter. Was mostly wanting to get the moisture tip instead of standard.
Thanks for pointing out the o-ring. I missed that part.
Was gonna start with lv as I have tons of 18650s and I require my stacked batts for nicotine.
There's just something about 3.o ohm dc at 8.4 fresh off the charger that kills my morning nic fit.
 
Bart,

OF

Well-Known Member
I would say the 3.7v would probably do best for the Persei since it can run the 18650 battery. I read good things about how it lasts a bit longer than the 17670 that TV has right now.

Actually that's not really true. The IMR 18650 THC ships and the Protected Li-ion 17670 TV ships are both rated at 1600 mAh, therefore both should give the same run time. An improvement over 6 Volts versions (powered by two 3.0 Volt cells) happens in either case.

Future batteries will no doubt have higher ratings, but for now this is a push as I see it.

OF
 
OF,

jambandphan03

in flavor country
Alright, just ran a voltage test with my 12 tenergy lifepo4 3.0 batteries, and got this range of off the charger voltages with my 510 voltage reader. Highest reading was 3.55v, a few were in the 3.4 range and the lowest was 3.37v. This is before load. I am just wondering if the lower readings are the batteries I need to stop using, or if it even matters.
 
jambandphan03,

OF

Well-Known Member
I've got the adapter. Was mostly wanting to get the moisture tip instead of standard.
Thanks for pointing out the o-ring. I missed that part.
Was gonna start with lv as I have tons of 18650s and I require my stacked batts for nicotine.
There's just something about 3.o ohm dc at 8.4 fresh off the charger that kills my morning nic fit.

Howdy Bart, welcome to the fun.

As a suggestion, contact TV about making you a high power e-juice vape. They have some amazing hardware over 'on that side' as well and if you like overdriven heaters, they can set that up for you even at 3.7 Volts I bet...... Since they custom wind each heater they can make just about anything you can think up in that area I bet.

OF
 
OF,

OF

Well-Known Member
Alright, just ran a voltage test with my 12 tenergy lifepo4 3.0 batteries, and got this range of off the charger voltages with my 510 voltage reader. Highest reading was 3.55v, a few were in the 3.4 range and the lowest was 3.37v. This is before load. I am just wondering if the lower readings are the batteries I need to stop using, or if it even matters.

I don't put much stock in unloaded numbers, especially fresh off the charger. Try half a minute or so driving a load and I bet those numbers are down a fair bit? I'd be much more worried about the one that reads say 2.85 when all the rest are over 2.95.

OF
 
OF,

jambandphan03

in flavor country
yeah, I was trying to figure out if I needed to phase out any of my batteries, so you are saying I should put them under load for a second then test to see where it is? I know some of my batteries are performing better than others, I'd like to narrow them down a bit.
 
jambandphan03,

Bart

Well-Known Member
Thank you for the advice. I think I'll try both and see where my sweet spot is.
I've got a bunch of the cgr18650 @2250 mah and the aw 2000s.
I was running a pair of provari until I tasted 7.4.
Can I run the sv at 7.4 if I'm careful and not the type of ass that thinks TV should replace em if I torch em.
 
Bart,

OF

Well-Known Member
yeah, I was trying to figure out if I needed to phase out any of my batteries, so you are saying I should put them under load for a second then test to see where it is? I know some of my batteries are performing better than others, I'd like to narrow them down a bit.

Yes, that's been my practice over the years. Most battery chemistries are subject to 'surface charge' hot off the charger that goes away in the first few percent of service life. So I'd do something like run them in pairs for a long enough time so they sag a bit, say two minutes? Then give them a minute or so to recover when as you remove them and then measure the terminal voltage. Better still if you can pull a modest load doing so, but just the meter will do. I'd then pair the highest with highest and lowest with the lowest. When a weaker pair got to say 3/4 of the normal run time I'd pension them off and buy fresh ones. The key is to get the lame ones together so one strong one doesn't beat the weak one to death (which it will).

Thank you for the advice. I think I'll try both and see where my sweet spot is.
I've got a bunch of the cgr18650 @2250 mah and the aw 2000s.
I was running a pair of provari until I tasted 7.4.
Can I run the sv at 7.4 if I'm careful and not the type of ass that thinks TV should replace em if I torch em.

You also have the 6 Volt option, using the same 3.0 Volt LiFePOs the big TV unit uses, good batteries for the job.

As far as what kind of ass you'd like to be, I think the choice is all yours? There seems to be a pretty broad assortment around here, good luck on finding something unique if that's your goal.......

Fun stuff if you let it be.

OF
 
OF,
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