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any recommendations for a portable vape?

lil off topic, but I need to adress the real MVPs x))

I got a grasshopper, which is great with a hydratube per se, but im sick of the batteries dying so I want something more reliable
 
kasimier1337,

joner

Well-Known Member
any recommendations for a portable vape?

lil off topic, but I need to adress the real MVPs x))

I got a grasshopper, which is great with a hydratube per se, but im sick of the batteries dying so I want something more reliable

Have you already a Dynavap?
 
joner,

joner

Well-Known Member
not a fan of the butane torches, but maybe i should consider it, since all batteries will eventually die and are bad for the environment and shit.. but the grasshopper batteries especially suck ass

I've never tried one, but they make induction heaters for them as well. I use a single torch most of the time and love it tho, and a triple torch for COLD outside weather. E-Nano and Dynavap cover a LOT of my usage, and are both great microdosers (Just an additional benefit for my usage).

My splinter v1 reminds me the most of my E-Nano of my portables, but others will likely weigh in with "Portable E-Nano" recommendations (@BestBuds already weighed in with a seemingly great rec that I have no experience with). The fact that it was only ~ $70 cad makes it portable for me (Not too worried about breaking glass at that price point).​
 
I've never tried one, but they make induction heaters for them as well. I use a single torch most of the time and love it tho, and a triple torch for COLD outside weather. E-Nano and Dynavap cover a LOT of my usage, and are both great microdosers (Just an additional benefit for my usage).

My splinter v1 reminds me the most of my E-Nano of my portables, but others will likely weigh in with "Portable E-Nano" recommendations (@BestBuds already weighed in with a seemingly great rec that I have no experience with). The fact that it was only ~ $70 cad makes it portable for me (Not too worried about breaking glass at that price point).​

yea think i should try it. seems to be the most legit option.

Just worried about the torch, because Im a little clumsy XD

did any1 here try the new Volcano Hybrid with a piece?
could eventually get it for free via health insurance along with my herbs x)
 
kasimier1337,
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ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
ataxian,
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blokenoname

DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
My other problem with the enano is that you cannot use standard glass pieces as you can with other vapes, and ordering replacement adapters and stems from the US is expensive because of postage and potential customs charges...
I wanted to get my own replacement GonG adapter made by a local glass blower and wondering if the enano stem is a standard size borosilicate tube? Has anyone found tubes that fit perfectly?
What you want, is a standard B14 ground glass joint cone tube from a lab glass outlet, from which you can cut yourself a 14mm GonG, that fits and seals reasonable well with the Nano. The backend of the B14 joint cone features a 10mm inner diameter, while the heater post of the Nano is 3/8" or 9.525mm. So you'll have a bit more 'play' there, than with the original Nano GonGs, that fit the 3/8" post more or less perfectly.

https://www.scientificglass.co.uk/contents/en-uk/d99_Ground_Glass_Joints.html

The lab glass tubes are quite inexpensive, so you can get yourself a couple to experiment with. For cutting them to size, you'll best use a small triangular diamond file (costs only a quid or two, or maybe a tenner for a hole set of needle files with different shapes) together with a drop of water. The file will go through the glass like butter and when you're about half the way through... just grab the tube on both ends and break it. It will split relatively evenly along the stress line. Use a bit of wet/dry sandpaper to sand down the edges, starting with 80 grit (again: add a few drops of water, to bind the glass dust).

If you wanna provide an even better seal and also a stop, for how far the Nano's heater post can enter into the GonG's bowl, I suggest fitting a small stainless steel circlip onto the heater post at your preferred hight, the backend of the GonG's bowl can come to rest on then. The flat surface of the clip ring will also improve the seal.



ETA: There was s/one also asking (can't find the post ATM), if an Arizer Solo/Air GonG would fit the Nano.
Doesn't work! It's inner diameter is about 11.5mm, which makes it too wide for a good enough seal and also provides no stability to the heater post. Sorry.
0.5mm difference, we can deal with. A whole 2.0mm are too much to gap.
 
Last edited:

ubardog

Well-Known Member
Have you ever used Teflon tape to make seal?

:zombie:

Hot Teflon and inhalation, Straight up No!
Glass Ti and Stainless is cool and silicon and ceramic are bearable. I would never add extra other materials to my airpath, but this is personal preference, Each to their own :D I would love Glass only Heater and airpath
-Vapocane-GS-elv8er and the likes

The 10 to 14mm works great Coz I love little but oftern with my flower.
 
ubardog,
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ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
:zombie:

Hot Teflon and inhalation, Straight up No!
Glass Ti and Stainless is cool and silicon and ceramic are bearable. I would never add extra other materials to my airpath, but this is personal preference, Each to their own :D I would love Glass only Heater and airpath
-Vapocane-GS-elv8er and the likes

The 10 to 14mm works great Coz I love little but oftern with my flower.
Why is Teflon used for potable water?
Does it get hot enough?

I will use glass then!
I stand corrected!
 
ataxian,
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blokenoname

DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
It gets worse: As you can see from various photos in the thread the wooden shell typically splits down the back after some time, with the split ending at the slot where the power socket is. I suspect the split happens in the first place because the power socket is under constant torque by the tendency of the cable to twist when placed on a table with the cable tangling off the edge of the table. I think this is what happens because in my case the split extends to the plastic socket itself..
My guess :2c::
The wooden shell of the log always tends to expand and contract a tiny bit even when not in use, depending on its own rest moisture content, current room temperature, moisture content of the air and the specific wood used. With the constantly applied heat then, the wood dries out even further over time and so overall tends to shrink more, than it is expanding... until it finally meets an unmovable object in its way before all the shrinking is done for good: the heat sink.

Seems to work out quite fine for most (or at least the greater part) of sold units though, from what I read here; i.e. some seem to crack, but most don't. So might well be, that if all the wrong conditions materialise at the right time... crack might go the shell, if you're really unlucky! :o

The side with the cut out for the power socket is probably also the weakest spot of the shell and the power socket itself is quite big and also won't give. Stress from an inflexible cord might also play into it, but I think unlikely to be the sole or even main culprit here, as the unit is much too lightweight to resist the pull of the cord much, me thinks.

Again: just guessing here ;)
 
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StringTheorista

Well-Known Member
ETA: There was s/one also asking (can't find the post ATM), if an Arizer Solo/Air GonG would fit the Nano.
Doesn't work! It's inner diameter is about 11.5mm, which makes it too wide for a good enough seal and also provides no stability to the heater post. Sorry.
0.5mm difference, we can deal with. A whole 2.0mm are too much to gap.
This makes me wonder whether the aroma tube for the ArGo might work. I know it’s smaller than those for Solo/Air, but can’t find dimensions on Arizer site. Anyone own an Argo and can share measurement (ID) of its stem?
 
StringTheorista,
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I've been looking into adding one. I just get overwhelmed by all the gongs I would need and all the different sizes to fit my vapes.....I'd be a month of Sunday's trying to figure out the right one!
simply go buy a beaker with 18mm ground joint, and add 18to14mm stem with percolator

beaker is most versatile piece there is, u cannot go wrong with it c:
 

blokenoname

DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
This makes me wonder whether the aroma tube for the ArGo might work. I know it’s smaller than those for Solo/Air, but can’t find dimensions on Arizer site. Anyone own an Argo and can share measurement (ID) of its stem?
" ~ 72mm long x ~ 12mm glass wall is ~ 1mm crimp at the end diameter is ~13mm"... said someone on Reddit in one of the few entries Google found on the topic just doing a cursory search.
If he's right about the 1mm wall, that would make the ID about 10mm, like the B14 cone joint tube, I suggested. That would fit then, yes. Though only 1mm wall thickness seems a bit on the thin side for the glass and the given dimensions in mm are probably only approximate, as I'm quite sure, we're dealing with some imperial unit glass tubing here. Might even fit better or a bit worse. Will get me an ArGo tube and report back next week or so.
 

Liberty

Well-Known Member
My guess :2c::
The wooden shell of the log always tends to expand and contract a tiny bit even when not in use, depending on its own rest moisture content, current room temperature, moisture content of the air and the specific wood used. With the constantly applied heat then, the wood dries out even further over time and so overall tends to shrink more, than it is expanding... until it finally meets an unmovable object in its way before all the shrinking is done for good: the heat sink.

Seems to work out quite fine for most (or at least the greater part) of sold units though, from what I read here; i.e. some seem to crack, but most don't. So might well be, that if all the wrong conditions materialise at the right time... crack might go the shell, if you're really unlucky! :o

The side with the cut out for the power socket is probably also the weakest spot of the shell and the power socket itself is quite big and also won't give. Stress from an inflexible cord might also play into it, but I think unlikely to be the sole or even main culprit here, as the unit is much too lightweight to resist the pull of the cord much, me thinks.

Again: just guessing here ;)

My nano just did that; cracked vertically by the power socket. Sent it to Epic Vape under warranty. And I just received it back, good as new, and at no cost.
 

blokenoname

DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
I remember when my first nano cracked. It made the most amazing SNAP / PING / RING sound.

I've always wondered if anything would happen if it cracked while I held it in my hand? Could I be injured?
Nah! Very unlikely. You'd of course feel it happening (slight cinetic impact), while it's in your hand, but it sounds much more dramatic, than it actually is. There's no splintering involved either. Remains a mere cosmetic issue on top of that in most cases and doesn't hurt function. Just a stress crack in the insulation, is all.
 

Sparkpug

Well-Known Member
I've been looking into adding one. I just get overwhelmed by all the gongs I would need and all the different sizes to fit my vapes.....I'd be a month of Sunday's trying to figure out the right one!

You need something that takes a 14mm or 18mm female connection. The E-Nano stems are either 14mm or 18mm male connections/glass joints. If you have a rig with a male connection, you would need to get an adapter to convert that, which is sort of where it feels like it gets messy. Just get a rig you like with either sized connection/glass joint, the matching Nano stem and voila.

Also, maybe put less in for your first time through water. I was using the Nano with a small rig and it sucked. When I got a real rig I put the usual 2 scoop dose in and I got super stoned by my standards. I've been able to use half of that since then.
 

ensabbahnur

Hash Vacuum
My guess :2c::
The wooden shell of the log always tends to expand and contract a tiny bit even when not in use, depending on its own rest moisture content, current room temperature, moisture content of the air and the specific wood used. With the constantly applied heat then, the wood dries out even further over time and so overall tends to shrink more, than it is expanding... until it finally meets an unmovable object in its way before all the shrinking is done for good: the heat sink.

Seems to work out quite fine for most (or at least the greater part) of sold units though, from what I read here; i.e. some seem to crack, but most don't. So might well be, that if all the wrong conditions materialise at the right time... crack might go the shell, if you're really unlucky! :o

The side with the cut out for the power socket is probably also the weakest spot of the shell and the power socket itself is quite big and also won't give. Stress from an inflexible cord might also play into it, but I think unlikely to be the sole or even main culprit here, as the unit is much too lightweight to resist the pull of the cord much, me thinks.

Again: just guessing here ;)

Fully agree with this, I have......numerous Hex Nails of both models and several wood varieties and after what like barely 3 years, almost every one of their wood covers has cracked on the screw holes. Im in northern NV so its bone dry all time and the only ones that dont have cracks are the units that look like they had extra oil applied to them. Id imagine that with the heat cycling the logs go through, if youre in a dry area, its just a matter of time.
 
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