Discontinued The Grasshopper

slozukimc

Well-Known Member
you have to read what I write... the vapor is harsh (on throat) ... I am not complaining that the mouthpiece gets too hot..

cooling down the unit only helps cooling down mouthpiece not against harsh vapor...

the matter why the vapor is harsh is because heating element herb and mouthpiece are very near... no cooling path for vapor...

If you can take comfortably a huge draw from mouthpiece of hopper without feeling a bite in your throat then you have an iron throat ;) or your hopper is running cold... otherwise I want tosee a video... you taking 15 sec. draw on hopper temp 5 native wihtout glass...

If you have to draw for 15 seconds with the power on high your Hopper is not working right. Power on, blue lights, draw 6 seconds, power off, draw 6 more. Vapor is warm but not ridiculously harsh.
 

Hopper Labs

Manufacturer
Manufacturer
Thank you for your thorough reply.

While I have expressed some sympathy for your situation, lauded my now working one of two GHs performance, and certainly have expressed hope and best wishes for new design changes to be effective and for your production plant to get back quickly to operation, I just have to throw the BS flag on the SS cases....which you STILL have on your site for sale.

I'm just not buying it. You are not a machine shop and I speculate that you couldn't possibly produce these yourself even though its really just a fairly simple case based on pics shown. So, a CAD design and send it out to contract manf for bid and then production. Heck, even NewVape may have been a potential source as they are indeed a machine shop.

If you couldn't design a case and deliver it in six years, you never should have taken money for it. And you should not still have it for sale on your site to this day, IMO.

Sorry, but the case situation....that's hard to accept.

And, store credit after six years of non-delivery? And some folks above are saying that they were told no on a refund. That's just money for nothing at this point.

I still wish Hopper the best of luck, I still plan on buying a new GH when you are back in production, but I can't find any justification for Hopper's failure to deliver on am empty case for such a long period of time.

I am glad you have brought up this perspective as it illustrates a disconnect between the development of products and the perception of users.

1. The case is stainless steel on the outside yes, the inside must have a plastic overmold so your device is not scratched by the case itself. It is not just drilling some holes in a piece of bar stock. The deep cavities required for the vape to fit into are a challenge. An overmold of that size might cost 30-50k to setup. We need to design the mold, have it made, tested, tweaked, and so on. All this is made harder by the fact that the tolerances on the case need to be very tight, so the mold seals well. During the production of the case exterior, we need to monitor that this is indeed being done correctly, or the mold will be ruined. All of this takes way more time and effort than you imagen.

2. CAD design for a consumer product that accounts for all of the above, not even including the mold design, might take weeks for a first revision. None of it is trivial; each decision affects the next and needs to be thought out to the end. This is not a model that is going into a 3d printer, but something that will cost over 30k, excluding labor, to even see the first production unit and then will have many many produced.

3. The end caps need solid retention that will last for many years of removal without becoming loose. This is a difficult challenge just by itself and has undergone many design revisions to get to the point where we thought it was good. Lessons were learned from the Grasshopper, and we don't plan or repeating some of our obvious mistakes.

4. All of this is further compounded by per unit cost requirements. Machining metal to tight tolerances is expensive, even overseas. Some of the original designs cost more to produce that we charged.

5. It is a misrepresentation to say we couldn't design and build it in 6 years. As I stated in my original message, most of the delays came from fixing Grasshopper problems, which were deemed a priority. As much as we would have liked to spend our time working on new products, this could not be with our small staff.

6. Anyone who is saying they could not get a refund has not contacted support@grasshoppervape.com, or there was some mixup. It has been a well-known policy that if you have a pre-order, you can get a refund.


I don't like to harp on the difficulties but only wish to point out that there is a little more to it. There is a high bar, which is great for consumers.
 
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kilo

Well-Known Member
If you have to draw for 15 seconds with the power on high your Hopper is not working right. Power on, blue lights, draw 6 seconds, power off, draw 6 more. Vapor is warm but not ridiculously harsh.

Yes, this is my experience as well. I normally use a j-hook at home but when I'm on the move I just adapt my toking style to the situation.
 
kilo,
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muunch

hotboxing the cockpit
If you have to draw for 15 seconds with the power on high your Hopper is not working right. Power on, blue lights, draw 6 seconds, power off, draw 6 more. Vapor is warm but not ridiculously harsh.

this is exactly right.

there is plenty of power to roast the entire chamber before the unit has the chance to get hot.

consider looking at the 5 tips and tricks on the Hopper website



https://streamable.com/9ymi4
 

Shrike

Flower Potted, Maxed, & Rio'd.
Not sure anyone with a pre-order said they could not get a refund, @Hopper Labs

It is we, who gave you our money for your Indiegogo campaign that were told by your staff that refunds were out of the question for Ti/SS Cases.

Has that changed? If so, I'd be glad to contact you to arrange a refund. Let us all know...thanks!
 
Shrike,

Raf

Well-Known Member
I don't think this is the case.
Having multiple hoppers has allowed me to try different combinations and before I even make warranty claims I can typically narrow it down to a back end or a body-related issue. Most times I've waited for a replacement back-end for the Green Ti, I'm still able to use its' body with a different back end on it. When a replacement comes, it has typically worked for a few weeks before getting weird and unreliable. This is the only one of 5 hoppers (for me) that has had serious back-end issues, and I have to assume a bunch of green back ends (maybe others...) had some amount of bad parts go into them.

That's interesting. I've only had one colored back end and the matching body overheats badly. But when I tried swapping other back ends didn't seem to make any difference. I also don't notice any difference between swapping out different back ends on different bodies I must just be lucky when it comes to all of the back end seeming to work fine unless I drop them hard. before giving my friend the 'slapped together from spare parts + new body unit' I tested to make sure that the stainless back-end I was giving him didn't result in different function compared to a TI back-end which I didn't really want to give up an extra of. Worked the same. Feel lucky I never had a green back end!

you have to read what I write... the vapor is harsh (on throat) ... I am not complaining that the mouthpiece gets too hot..

cooling down the unit only helps cooling down mouthpiece not against harsh vapor...

the matter why the vapor is harsh is because heating element herb and mouthpiece are very near... no cooling path for vapor...

If you can take comfortably a huge draw from mouthpiece of hopper without feeling a bite in your throat then you have an iron throat ;) or your hopper is running cold... otherwise I want tosee a video... you taking 15 sec. draw on hopper temp 5 native wihtout glass...

It just kind of works too well for its own good in terms of producing hot vapor. Using a small chillum or even just a extender type glass adapter really makes a massive difference both by cooling the vapor with a very short path to avoid condensation, but also acting as a heat sink since the glass absorbs heat from the metal and dissipates it into the air over a larger surface area

Otherwise you're basically going to get one cool hit between letting the device cool down completely. Air conditioning vent in the car can be useful for this if you're using legal aromatherapy herbs since you should not ever drive under the influence of anything. Can use the AC vent to get the mouthpiece really cold which has obvious advantages
 
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Raf,

NOLOGO

Well-Known Member
Using a small chillum or even just a extender type glass adapter really makes a massive difference both by cooling the vapor with a very short path to avoid condensation, but also acting as a heat sink since the glass absorbs heat from the metal and dissipates it into the air over a larger surface area

I use a small standard-sized metal drip-tip that fits snugly in the PFE. This is the ONLY way I am able to take hits from my hopper without running it through water. I used to use a crafty cooling unit contraption, but it's just gets too gunky and stinky, and looks sketch. I even at one point had a 3inch long drip tip that EXACTLY matched the taper off the PFE, but wouldnt fit in my case. The short drip tip lives on my PFE when I travel.
 

muunch

hotboxing the cockpit
I use a small standard-sized metal drip-tip that fits snugly in the PFE. This is the ONLY way I am able to take hits from my hopper without running it through water. I used to use a crafty cooling unit contraption, but it's just gets too gunky and stinky, and looks sketch. I even at one point had a 3inch long drip tip that EXACTLY matched the taper off the PFE, but wouldnt fit in my case. The short drip tip lives on my PFE when I travel.

Got link or pic?

I still think PFE is fine native but I am curious
 

Vaporific

All who wander are not lost...
Got link or pic?

I still think PFE is fine native but I am curious
I guess I’m old school and minimalist at heart: still use the standard mouthpiece sans silicone tip in the 2’s temp-wise, and all is good. If vapor gets too hot I just turn down the temp a bit but not much. I did buy a new and my second overall silicone tip recently, used it once and put it away for a rainy day. I’ll use it again eventually. It helps mating the standard frontend to glass, which I don’t use often. That’s just me...:peace:
 

slozukimc

Well-Known Member
I guess I’m old school and minimalist at heart: still use the standard mouthpiece sans silicone tip in the 2’s temp-wise, and all is good. If vapor gets too hot I just turn down the temp a bit but not much. I did buy a new and my second overall silicone tip recently, used it once and put it away for a rainy day. I’ll use it again eventually. It helps mating the standard frontend to glass, which I don’t use often. That’s just me...:peace:
All of this talk of running the Hopper on 2 makes me think MAN that is a lot of cannabinoids not being vaped.
 

Raf

Well-Known Member
All of this talk of running the Hopper on 2 makes me think MAN that is a lot of cannabinoids not being vaped.

you don't get all the lavender essential oils either, from one or two low temp inhale. But if you keep repeating on 2, eventually what comes out smells bad when crushed (the indicator of 'done' abv). Another good indicator that the load is done is if it just kind of releases itself out of the device when inverted. If my loose pack of lavender is still stuck inside then that means there's enough oils or resins or whatever remaining for another hit on 2..
 

slozukimc

Well-Known Member
you don't get all the lavender essential oils either, from one or two low temp inhale. But if you keep repeating on 2, eventually what comes out smells bad when crushed (the indicator of 'done' abv). Another good indicator that the load is done is if it just kind of releases itself out of the device when inverted. If my loose pack of lavender is still stuck inside then that means there's enough oils or resins or whatever remaining for another hit on 2..

I haven’t a clue about lavender but if my herb is still green then it ain’t done. 2 isn’t gonna do that unless the temp dial means nothing more than a marker.
 

muunch

hotboxing the cockpit
I guess I’m old school and minimalist at heart: still use the standard mouthpiece sans silicone tip in the 2’s temp-wise, and all is good. If vapor gets too hot I just turn down the temp a bit but not much. I did buy a new and my second overall silicone tip recently, used it once and put it away for a rainy day. I’ll use it again eventually. It helps mating the standard frontend to glass, which I don’t use often. That’s just me...:peace:

I've been using just PFE since receiving it.

I usually am around 3.6-3.8 (just shy of max) and can kill a bowl in 1 hit comfortably. I've posted some videos to demonstrate.

Just curious about other options. :ninja:
 

Vaporific

All who wander are not lost...
I haven’t a clue about lavender but if my herb is still green then it ain’t done. 2 isn’t gonna do that unless the temp dial means nothing more than a marker.
My usual temp is 2.6-2.9. After 2-3 draws AVB IS usually golden brown and easily drops down into the chamber. When a batt is low is when these usual results let up a bit and then I swap in another and finish the load. And I don’t use lavender but cool with those who do...:peace:
 

Raf

Well-Known Member
I haven’t a clue about lavender but if my herb is still green then it ain’t done. 2 isn’t gonna do that unless the temp dial means nothing more than a marker.

If 2 won't eventually go from green to gold or brown, then 2 runs too cold on your device to be used. My units from 2016-2017ish can make gold on 2 but require a longer heat up and multiple hits. New unit from late this year makes gold on 1 with 1-2 seconds of heat up. On two it will make brown after repeated hits with short preheats. On 4+ It fully extracts to dark brown from one long pull

I like to be able to get more than one pull with good flavor per load
 

Raf

Well-Known Member
Don’t certain cannabinoids require a certain temp to vaporize? Are you saying your Hopper reaches these temps even on 2? That seems like the temp specs @Hopper Labs have posted for each setting are wrong?

it seems to me like not all of the dials are calibrated to the same temperatures. Or, more likely, not all of the body units respond with the same temperature when the same dial setting is applied. 100% for sure older units run colder, and I have one malfunctioning unit in purple that chars on setting one

very gentle pull on lowest setting makes green "abv" with black edges

Yeah,I forgot they even climbed out on a limb to state what line equates to what temp. You gotta love how optimistic they are LOL
 
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btka

Well-Known Member
this is exactly right.

there is plenty of power to roast the entire chamber before the unit has the chance to get hot.

consider looking at the 5 tips and tricks on the Hopper website



https://streamable.com/9ymi4

thank you that was an interesting test... wanted to always know how hot the vapor is of vapes... one question was the sensor of thermocouple right in fron of the pfe where the hot air enters your mouth... because I suggest it is a stream of hot air... and if the thermo couple is in your mouth but not in front of the stream of hot air the test would not be correct...

would like to see this test with other vapes like crafty, mighty, furry and so...
for me the vapor at 5 is hot ... my throat starts to burn... and I also tried it with pfe... crafty with cooling unit was not doing that for example, also when I remember right furry did not do that...
 

muunch

hotboxing the cockpit
thank you that was an interesting test... wanted to always know how hot the vapor is of vapes... one question was the sensor of thermocouple right in fron of the pfe where the hot air enters your mouth... because I suggest it is a stream of hot air... and if the thermo couple is in your mouth but not in front of the stream of hot air the test would not be correct...

would like to see this test with other vapes like crafty, mighty, furry and so...
for me the vapor at 5 is hot ... my throat starts to burn... and I also tried it with pfe... crafty with cooling unit was not doing that for example, also when I remember right furry did not do that...

Ah, yeah... I was originally trying to stick the probe directly into the PFE but couldn't fit it comfortably.

I can shoot another video with a few more tests (so it's more than just a single anecdote...) if people actually think it provides useful information.

I also plan to get an IR camera so I can get some videos showing the Hoppers and their temps. Theoretically a Hopper on an empty waterpipe could work, using that setup.
 

Vaporific

All who wander are not lost...
it seems to me like not all of the dials are calibrated to the same temperatures. Or, more likely, not all of the body units respond with the same temperature when the same dial setting is applied.
This worries me and implicates the historical quality control issues with respect to performance. And as I’ve been harping on batteries in general as of late (well, for a while actually - lol) there’s variability with those as well.

HOWEVER when the Hopper works well and consistently well, it simply works well!:peace:
 

Raf

Well-Known Member
This worries me and implicates the historical quality control issues with respect to performance. And as I’ve been harping on batteries in general as of late (well, for a while actually - lol) there’s variability with those as well.

HOWEVER when the Hopper works well and consistently well, it simply works well!:peace:

After further consideration, it seems like it has to be the bodies that don't respond with the same output temp, because when I tried using different back ends on the overheating purple body it did exactly the same thing regardless of what back-end I used.

As far as the batteries I can tell you that for some reason a brand new battery doesn't seem to make any difference for me in terms of pairing line settings with outcome color of abv
 

maxvapor710

Manufacturer
Manufacturer
After further consideration, it seems like it has to be the bodies that don't respond with the same output temp, because when I tried using different back ends on the overheating purple body it did exactly the same thing regardless of what back-end I used.

As far as the batteries I can tell you that for some reason a brand new battery doesn't seem to make any difference for me in terms of pairing line settings with outcome color of abv

The actual temperature adjustment in the backend is pretty simple, mechanically speaking.
I would suspect any temperature issues to rely in the body / heater side of things.

The ring surrounding the negative battery terminal on the backend is magnetic,
just underneath the brass battery terminal is a Hall Effect Sensor.

This sensor provides a reading to the microcontroller in the backend with the angle position
of the dial. Once the plunger is pressed, the microcontroller tells the MOSFET in the backend
to start clamping to ground so that the frontend electronics start receiving power and do their thing.
 

Raf

Well-Known Member
thank you that was an interesting test... wanted to always know how hot the vapor is of vapes... one question was the sensor of thermocouple right in fron of the pfe where the hot air enters your mouth... because I suggest it is a stream of hot air... and if the thermo couple is in your mouth but not in front of the stream of hot air the test would not be correct...

would like to see this test with other vapes like crafty, mighty, furry and so...
for me the vapor at 5 is hot ... my throat starts to burn... and I also tried it with pfe... crafty with cooling unit was not doing that for example, also when I remember right furry did not do that...

At whatever temperature setting you're using: after blue light, try waiting 5 full seconds, then immediately inhale slowly. the air entering the chamber will extract more efficiently but the mouthpiece won't have started heating up yet. Should be able to click off the heater about a 1-2 second after you start inhaling

Short puffs like a cigar inbetween deep, cumulative inhales filling up to your lung capacity will also mitigate throat scorch
 

slozukimc

Well-Known Member
The actual temperature adjustment in the backend is pretty simple, mechanically speaking.
I would suspect any temperature issues to rely in the body / heater side of things.

The ring surrounding the negative battery terminal on the backend is magnetic,
just underneath the brass battery terminal is a Hall Effect Sensor.

This sensor provides a reading to the microcontroller in the backend with the angle position
of the dial. Once the plunger is pressed, the microcontroller tells the MOSFET in the backend
to start clamping to ground so that the frontend electronics start receiving power and do their thing.
Could someone please repost the pic, or a link to it, of the back end taken apart? I am apparently overlooking it somewhere when I dig around.
Thank you!!!
 
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