Discontinued Splinter Z by RBT

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sickmanfraud

Well-Known Member

Boost is a setting on DNA250C mods (probably on other DNA versions as well) that gets the vapor started by "boosting" the heat/speed. There is a scale from 0 (no boost) to 11.

When I first started playing around with DNA configurations I figured more is better. Not so with boost/punch. Now that I have the boost set to 5 or lower I have been getting much more even "roasting" of my medicine with no hot spots.
 
sickmanfraud,
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Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Finally picked up a squid industries double barrel (v3), the wattage only mod with a potentiometer. My lost vape paranormal is best I think paired with the splinter standard. My double barrel, the Z. The DNA 250C replay mode with the splinter achieves quick medication in two or three puffs. Ok even one. The double barrel with dial in wattage +the Z is the first full convection vaporizer I've used that let's you conveniently slow roll your way up the temperature scale, reminiscent of sessions with the mighty only ... better! Yes better. Love LOVE the dial.

Sounds cool, do you have a pic of the Z on the double barrel? The original Zion had a potentiometer knob, so it makes sense that its great for the Z too. I am also using my Z in wattage mode with my G3D and surmyevic using short autofire.
 
Shit Snacks,

CrazyCory564

New Member
Question about Arctic Fox sttings with Splinter Z.

I want to try a bunch of FW. Already have settings for my DNA250c Triade, and I have a VTC Dual on the way to throw the tubomyevic fw on it.

Finally, I have my wismec reuleaux rxgen3 and just installed arctic fox on it. however, this seems to be the only FW of which i can't find settings people have used in regards to their Splinter Z. Tried searches on here, google, etc. only found OG splinter and v2 settings; nothing for splinter z.

can anyone point me in the right direction or to someone who has experience using AF wuth splinter z?

yes, but not exactly. There is still a pre-heat option. Boost is more like "instant" vapor 0 to 60 in a second or 2.

eh, not quite. they are essentially the same thing for different circumstances.

Boost is for any power mode; it allows the mod to send more power than set for an allotted amount of time in order to get the coil up to temp faster, but it is not related to TC directly.

pre-heat is specifically for TC modes, and is more specific/integrated with the TCR settings. it is an added variable which takes the TCR settings in to account; it will still use the boost setting, but that boost itself will be throttled at times in order to maintain the set temperature.

Boost just boosts initial power output in general; pre-heat does so while taking your TC settings in to account

edit: apologies for double post. didnt see edit button. first post
 
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mephisto

Well-Known Member
206j85u.jpg
 

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
can anyone point me in the right direction or to someone who has experience using AF wuth splinter z?
It's not really an answer to your question but I abandoned Arctic Fox and put myevic on my rxg3d and the results are impressive with my Z and my V1. Locking the resistance at .4ohms and maybe tweaking the PID values was all I did for the Z and the rx gen3 dual pumps out dense now in both modes. Honestly it's probably a heavier hitter than my dna mods but I prefer the lasting flavor and more even roasting so for me it's worth the tradeoff.
 

HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
I am trying to set up my splinter z using arcticfox as well. Instead of using TCR, I plan on using a TFR curve. I want to map each temp to a resistance for the Splinter Z but to do this I need to have an accurate temp gun and need to accurately record the resistance at the specific time I take the temp. Before I do this, I was wondering if anyone else has used TFR for the Splinter Z.

DNA mods use TRF so any of the FCSHARE files use them in the material profiles. Here are a couple to get you started. Copy to note save as .CSV file



"Temperature (degF)","Electrical Resistivity"
-100,0.893704748116836
0,0.956322712973527
70,1.00000966519913
200,1.07170991749219
400,1.17004388188771
600,1.25565497949471
800,1.3322987553291


"Temperature (degF)","Electrical Resistivity"
-58,0.923065366374551
68,1.00000368733401
212,1.12000101805187
302,1.14999062647438
392,1.18997677103774
482,1.24252665557577
572,1.27450001241534
800,1.36050134084879



"Temperature (degF)","Electrical Resistivity"
-100,0.9066162109375
68,1
237.9375,1.0943603515625
552.625,1.2691650390625
800,1.4066162109375

Here is a link to more files material files and info
https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/65874-ss316l-help/?tab=comments#comment-891610
 

CrazyCory564

New Member
It's not really an answer to your question but I abandoned Arctic Fox and put myevic on my rxg3d and the results are impressive with my Z and my V1. Locking the resistance at .4ohms and maybe tweaking the PID values was all I did for the Z and the rx gen3 dual pumps out dense now in both modes. Honestly it's probably a heavier hitter than my dna mods but I prefer the lasting flavor and more even roasting so for me it's worth the tradeoff.

That's fine, but to be frank, I'm not interested in what others experience has been with each firmware; I want to try them all for myself and make my own decision based in my personal preference, no offense intended. I see absolutely no reason to out MyEvic software on the rx when I just ordered a VTC Dual specifically to try MyEvic custom FW like tubo and sur. If I we're going to try diffeeendfirmware on the gen3 (not dual), I would be trying something g else entirely rather than evic software. That's kind of why I got the Joyetech mod which natively uses MyEvic.

The DNA I have some settings for. Just none for Arctic fox not actually sure how PI works so I'm worried about plugging shit in and messing crap up lol

I do appreciate the input, but I feel much more comfortable trying it myself rather than taking someone else's word for it. I just want some baseline settings to work with tuned for the z but no one seems to have done so.

Side note: my coil resistance seems to read around d 0.37 (0.372-0.374 ish cold reading on DNAc)
 

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
OK, so the one issue I have with the VT75D and my Z is that it is a little slow to get started. I find I need draw for 5 to 10 seconds before the vapor flows well enough. Is that best managed with Boost or Preheat, and how much should I use? I have been doing it manually by just hitting for a while not expecting vapor and then returning for the goodness, but if there is a better way of addressing that I'm all ears.
medical-hearing-listening_skills-expression-idiom-big_ears-mfln9693_low.jpg
 
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cybrguy,
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mixchu69

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HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
I do appreciate the input, but I feel much more comfortable trying it myself rather than taking someone else's word for it. I just want some baseline settings to work with tuned for the z but no one seems to have done so.

Posted some of material files that you can use in arctic fox that are TRF for splinterZ Not sure what your looking for?
 

triskelion

Member
Got the TC working but every once in awhile I still get a “no atomizer” and such message. It doesn’t just happen on one mod box either. Both 250c dna chip mods are new and the 510 thread looks immaculate but I wiped both the mod and splinter down pretty hard anyways. Right after I wiped it down I got a no atomizer, kept hitting the fire button and it went away. It’s strange that it happens on both mods which are basically brand new. I’d really like to find a solution where this won’t happen at all anymore since sometimes it’s working perfectly fine in the middle of a session then all of a sudden I get no vapor and I check my mod and I have a no atomizer/temp protect/check atomizer message. Gets kind of annoying
Please check the screw of the 510 thread of the atomizer, it is the contact point between the atomizer and your mod.
 
triskelion,

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
OK, so the one issue I have with the VT75D and my Z is that it is a little slow to get started. I find I need draw for 5 to 10 seconds before the vapor flows well enough. Is that best managed with Boost or Preheat, and how much should I use? I have been doing it manually by just hitting for a while not expecting vapor and then returning for the goodness, but if there is a better way of addressing that I'm all ears.
medical-hearing-listening_skills-expression-idiom-big_ears-mfln9693_low.jpg
I'd like to learn more about this too. Sometimes I switch to wattage and hit the fire button at 45W for two or three five second holds to warm things up before actually vaping with it in TC. Just something I saw Ryan do with a cheap VTC mod.
 
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bossman,
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Easywider

Simple is the way
I'd like to learn more about this too. Sometimes I switch to wattage and hit the fire button at 45W for two or three five second holds to warm things up before actually vaping with it in TC.

With the paranormal I just received a few days ago I've been using it on watt boost: Settings , 45 watts, boost on , punch 9, warmth 5. These settings seem to give me the fastest response time. From cold I give a 2 second pre heat and a 5 second draw and I get a nice size cloud. 7 seconds from cold start :rockon:No need for pre heating after that. These settings have me heating up really fast and extracting really fast but the trade off is the flavour fades quickly. What I do to get around this is hit save on replay after the second or third puff to limit the heat increase for a longer tastier session without loosing the speedy heat up.

@cybrguy I think I understand DNA Boost vs Punch / Preheat but not well enough to explain in my own words. :hmm: Here's a short discussion from the evolve form with the creators. https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/69858-boost-versus-punch/
 

HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
They're here. .. :buzz:
Is this the same cooling stem?

https://www.ddavemods.com/store/p80/The_Ultimate_Cooling_Stem.html

edit: it looked like the old cooler, but realize in the description that it is not the tubo evic cooler (look similar)[/QUOTE]

Interesting being only 18mm it work with the splinter too. Btw the added distance from load and cooling effect of vapor path it should be a very smooth experience. Rarely buy glass cause of hands but tempted on this.
 
HerbieVonVapster,

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
Is this the same cooling stem?

https://www.ddavemods.com/store/p80/The_Ultimate_Cooling_Stem.html

edit: it looked like the old cooler, but realize in the description that it is not the tubo evic cooler (look similar)

Interesting being only 18mm it work with the splinter too. Btw the added distance from load and cooling effect of vapor path it should be a very smooth experience. Rarely buy glass cause of hands but tempted on this.[/QUOTE]
I'm interested in this cooling stem for my Splinters. The photos are poor and don't really show me what the stem looks like. There's also a mention of glass beads which I can't see from the photos.

Has anyone used, reviewed, or recommended this stem yet?
 
bossman,
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