What box mod are you using / recommending for on-demand convection 510 vapes?

[little maggie]

@little maggie not sure if myevic will make your gen 3 run any cooler but it’ll definitely make you more comfortable bc it’s so much like the tubo firmware. If you need help installing it pm me, I’m super ignorant of computer stuff but I had some very good help from friends so i’ll Be happy to walk you thru.

I did install it as soon as I got the gen3. I thought that was why it was running hot. The software didn't seem very familiar when I tried to run it. Thanks for your offer though. I'll get it out again and maybe, assuming I installed it correctly you can tell me how to set it up.

 

[almost there]

I did install it as soon as I got the gen3. I thought that was why it was running hot. The software didn't seem very familiar when I tried to run it. Thanks for your offer though. I'll get it out again and maybe, assuming I installed it correctly you can tell me how to set it up.

I see, I guess in that case it’ll all come down to trial and error of different tcr values.

Btw- the stem you were asking about is @Ed’s tnt’s Mi/splinter stem. Natively I can’t attach the tubo whip but I widened my stem’s airpath to accommodate a glass insert from @funkyjunky so the tubo whip fits over the glass insert. If you decide to get one I would suggest you ask Ed to drill the airpath a tiny bit wider so you can use a 8mm glass insert from lamart for your whip

 

[oddjobold]

I'm in love. The mp is beautiful- perfect for my p80. I'm not updating the p80 with myevic although it's on the list since I'm not sure if that's why my gen 3 runs so hot. Which mp is it? Will it fit a whip on the tip?

Eds Tnt splinter stem. Thid is how i have it setup atm.

I love these splinter stems.

These stems come with a middle screen that lays flat by the groove in the stem. You get spare middle screens. However the bowl was far too big in this configuration. First few tries i did not get on with these stems. Then i added arizer bowl screens. Wow great.

The arizer bowl screen allows you to have a 2nd chamber, just behind the screen. So with a little hemp fiber behind the bowl your getting super smooth hits.

I have just brought some 3mm soda glass beads (as used in the imp cooling glass stem).

So with another tiny screen in the tip of the mouthpiece i have a stem with 2 chambers and 1 bowl. Three screen total. So my setup.

Arizer screen
Hemp fiber
Eds standard screen.
3mm glass beads in the stem.
Another small screen.

Super smooth hits. XL8R in wood. Yes there is added draw restriction but that actually helps with coulds. Slows down your hits. Cant wait to try this with my 4 hole spliterZ.

Best stems ever in my opinion.

Not sure about whips, but glass balls make a big difference!

 

[cybrguy]

For you DNA guys, is there any significant loss going with one of the discontinued DNA mods like the
Reuleaux DNA 250 LE (the brass colored one) rather than the ones (like the paranormal) that newer firmware? The reason I lust for this one is the looks, but would I be giving anything up? Does the color firmware actually improve performance in any way?

 

[sickmanfraud]

For you DNA guys, is there any significant loss going with one of the discontinued DNA mods like the
Reuleaux DNA 250 LE (the brass colored one) rather than the ones (like the paranormal) that newer firmware? The reason I lust for this one is the looks, but would I be giving anything up? Does the color firmware actually improve performance in any way?

It is my understanding that the 250C is different than 250 in the areas regarding to replay function and certain escribe settings.

The interface used by 75C and 250C are the same (up, down, select and fire) 250 has an interface that is different in that it has up, down and fire.

That brass Reuleaux looks really nice. I am familiar with Tubo firmware and now 250C and I have considered a 75C with the same interface. I am uninterested in trying to keep up with too many mod interfaces.

 

[almost there]

For you DNA guys, is there any significant loss going with one of the discontinued DNA mods like the
Reuleaux DNA 250 LE (the brass colored one) rather than the ones (like the paranormal) that newer firmware? The reason I lust for this one is the looks, but would I be giving anything up? Does the color firmware actually improve performance in any way?

it depends..

Advantages
-replay- TC for dummies:you can save the hit you like best and mimic the heat profile without the need to mess with TC. Example- stempod has so many different coils I don't bother with TC because it'll need tweaking every time I have to change coils. Solution for me is to run it on 32-34 watts and save the puff that resembles what 370-380F is for me.

-adjustabilty-ability to change settings without having to run to escribe every time. Example- My iheat has a resting resistance that climbed from .33ohms to .40 ohms so Tc is all screwed up. On my DNA250 devices I would have to plug in the mod to my computer to adjust the resting resistance so it can go back to performing as normal. On a 250C device you can just scroll down the screen and make any adjustment you need to the temp, wattage, resistance, coil material, etc.

Disadvantage
-adjustability- Funny this is also a pain in the ass if all your settings are optimized then the adjustibilty becomes a hassle. Example-While using the Z on a paranormal 250C if I want to bump the temp up a few degrees I would have to scroll to the temperature,select it, and then increase the temp. It's an extra step but it really annoys me because I'll have to do this a few times each session. On a regular DNA mod to adjust temp you merely press the up and down buttons.

Besides these differences the devices should perform similarly once all the variables are tweaked. I like the regular DNA board for using atomizers that I have everything figured out and the 250C for everything else

 

[bossman]

I have one of the bronze Wismec DNA250 mods slated to arrive tomorrow. Shall I install myevic to try cruising it with my Splinter Z? Someone helpfully mentioned earlier that tubo sw wasn't compatible.

 

[buddingglasshead]

I have one of the bronze Wismec DNA250 mods slated to arrive tomorrow. Shall I install myevic to try cruising it with my Splinter Z? Someone helpfully mentioned earlier that tubo sw wasn't compatible.

You can't use any third party firmware for a DNA chip. You'll have to stick with what is available and/or use the profiles that Herbie made for the 250 if you want something to just run out of the box without much if any tweaking needed.

 

[YaMon]

I have one of the bronze Wismec DNA250 mods slated to arrive tomorrow. Shall I install myevic to try cruising it with my Splinter Z? Someone helpfully mentioned earlier that tubo sw wasn't compatible.

I have the same Mod and set it up with Herbie’s profile: https://forum.evolvapor.com/files/file/567-fcshare/

I’m not sure how accurate the temperature is, for if I set it at 365 I get huge rips. I’ll go to 375, but usually it is spent by the time I raise the temp to that. Most annoying thing with the Z is having to spin the mouth piece to avoid hot spots. I am guessing every Z is different when it come to this. It is a shame there is not some way Ryan can disrupt the airflow just before the screen such that it evenly heats the entire area.

 

[sickmanfraud]

I have one of the bronze Wismec DNA250 mods slated to arrive tomorrow. Shall I install myevic to try cruising it with my Splinter Z? Someone helpfully mentioned earlier that tubo sw wasn't compatible.

I haven't heard about anyone making a DNA compatible "cruise".

@YaMon what stem are you using? I find that if I use a 19/19 stem in my Splinter Z I get scorching. If you have a 19/22 stem you may find that it works better in the Z.

 

[KeroZen]

@YaMon: To reduce hot spots you can play with the distance from load to heater, how much you tamp your load, how hard you draw, and also lower your temperature and extract slower.

The faster you try to extract the more likely you'll hot spot.

 

[YaMon]

@YaMon: To reduce hot spots you can play with the distance from load to heater, how much you tamp your load, how hard you draw, and also lower your temperature and extract slower.

The faster you try to extract the more likely you'll hot spot.

Thanks Ken! I have played around with draw a bit. I have found with the Z and my NewVape FlowerPot that fast extratction has it’s benefits that I miss when using other vapes, so it will be difficult to restrain myself.

 

[Shit Snacks]

@YaMon: To reduce hot spots you can play with the distance from load to heater, how much you tamp your load, how hard you draw, and also lower your temperature and extract slower.

The faster you try to extract the more likely you'll hot spot.

@YaMon yeah was going to say draw is a big part of that and button time, certainly if you try for the big quick hits you will find a harder time avoiding them. When I take it slow at low the extraction is all extremely even while fast high bubbler rips often leave spots in my experience

 

[bossman]

I haven't heard about anyone making a DNA compatible "cruise".

Okay, thanks. I wonder now if I should return the bronze wismec or pass the deal along on the classifieds. What's the upside of a DNA mod for us dry herb folks?

 

[Hollabackatcha]

Okay, thanks. I wonder now if I should return the bronze wismec or pass the deal along on the classifieds. What's the upside of a DNA mod for us dry herb folks?

They are touted as more precise and very battery efficient.

 

[Shit Snacks]

Okay, thanks. I wonder now if I should return the bronze wismec or pass the deal along on the classifieds. What's the upside of a DNA mod for us dry herb folks?

The temp control accuracy, Tubo gives cruise but guesswork for temps with others since it is made for Tubo heater while surmyevic will give you an autofire so you can do cruise in power mode with watts (cant with tubo) and also requires guesswork for TC as well... So also mod form factor, software interface, aside from these basic feature differences

 

[bossman]

The temp control accuracy, Tubo gives cruise but guesswork for temps with others since it is made for Tubo heater while surmyevic will give you an autofire so you can do cruise in power mode with watts (cant with tubo) and also requires guesswork for TC as well... So also mod form factor, software interface, aside from these basic feature differences

Thanks for the info (and thanks @Hollabackatcha too).

So are you saying sur_myevic will run on the DNA250 I have coming and it does autofire/cruise but just in wattage mode?

One thing I'd enjoy with the Splinters would be a more rapid heat up. My rx gen3 dual takes five or ten seconds to climb up into the 350 to 380 range where I've been enjoying my Splinters. My Tubo X on its VTC Dual will briefly display a higher wattage to get there and then back off to maintain temp on its own depending on draw speed. Will the DNA250 do something like that and is that a sur_myevic feature? I recall reading that Splinters shouldn't be used with wattage above a certain level so I haven't fucked with any preheat options in Arctic Fox (if that's even what those settings are for).

 

[Hollabackatcha]

Thanks for the info (and thanks @Hollabackatcha too).

So are you saying sur_myevic will run on the DNA250 I have coming and it does autofire/cruise but just in wattage mode?

One thing I'd enjoy with the Splinters would be a more rapid heat up. My rx gen3 dual takes five or ten seconds to climb up into the 350 to 380 range where I've been enjoying my Splinters. My Tubo X on its VTC Dual will briefly display a higher wattage to get there and then back off to maintain temp on its own depending on draw speed. Will the DNA250 do something like that and is that a sur_myevic feature? I recall reading that Splinters shouldn't be used with wattage above a certain level so I haven't fucked with any preheat options in Arctic Fox (if that's even what those settings are for).

DNA chips will not run any 3rd party firmware.

You should run Arctic Fox on the Gen3 and turn on the 2s boost feature.

 

[Shit Snacks]

Thanks for the info (and thanks @Hollabackatcha too).

So are you saying sur_myevic will run on the DNA250 I have coming and it does autofire/cruise but just in wattage mode?

One thing I'd enjoy with the Splinters would be a more rapid heat up. My rx gen3 dual takes five or ten seconds to climb up into the 350 to 380 range where I've been enjoying my Splinters. My Tubo X on its VTC Dual will briefly display a higher wattage to get there and then back off to maintain temp on its own depending on draw speed. Will the DNA250 do something like that and is that a sur_myevic feature? I recall reading that Splinters shouldn't be used with wattage above a certain level so I haven't fucked with any preheat options in Arctic Fox (if that's even what those settings are for).

Yeah DNA is its own thing, the latest tech, why it has best temp accuracy I guess.

And that's funny bc I find my SplinterZ I be essentially instant with my Gen3Dual in power mode even as low as 33watts and especially at 45watts... I'm sure ArcticFox is different with temp control, but my Tubo also needs more preheat with TC (it has that feature too, though I do not use it, I just cruise a little first or manually preheat) Sometimes I do preheat my SplinterZ for big rips from cold, but only for a few seconds.

Remember the Splinters were designed for power mode, so it is likely to provide the best performance perhaps. At least I have had great performance with it myself so far... We'll see if I try temps with myevic some day, but likely will be trying on the DNA which is a shame bc yeah no cruise or autofire. I'd like to use my Splinter just like my Tubo with the temps on demand and safely cruising for short bursts too, but it may not be in the cards until we get @funkyjunky these products to map for his software

 

[bossman]

DNA chips will not run any 3rd party firmware.

You should run Arctic Fox on the Gen3 and turn on the 2s boost feature.

Gotcha, thanks again. I just added a 2s preheat at like 140% of my 38w TC power and it's much quicker to temp now. What's the wattage we're never supposed to exceed for the Splinter and Z again? Like if it should never get more than 60 or 70W I could still use 55 for a second or two of preheat.

 

[Shit Snacks]

Ah probably wrong place to ask this specific question, but while I'm here...

So I've got three new 30Q batts coming to go with my incoming Reuleaux DNA250, but I only have two-bay external charger. I am planning on keeping them in the mod as if internal, but was wondering if that would be bad for the first initial charge? However would it also be bad to charge two together, then the third on its own since I don't have 3bay external charging to pair the throuple?

 

[almost there]

Ah probably wrong place to ask this specific question, but while I'm here...

So I've got three new 30Q batts coming to go with my incoming Reuleaux DNA250, but I only have two-bay external charger. I am planning on keeping them in the mod as if internal, but was wondering if that would be bad for the first initial charge? However would it also be bad to charge two together, then the third on its own since I don't have 3bay external charging to pair the throuple?

I researched this exact situation a few months ago and was informed by the ecig community that it's fine. As long as the charge rate is the same and all the batteries are equally topped then it's not a problem, it's the discharge rate that matters more.

 

[KeroZen]

Different chargers will have different cutoff points, so you might end up with an imbalance right from the start.

Don't know how well that mod charges individual cells but if it got good reviews then you can do the initial charge inside. Just make sure to let them sit on the charger for 4 extra hours after it shows 100%.

 

[sickmanfraud]

I just remembered that I asked @HerbieVonVapster in a PM about the DNA 250 vs the DNA 250C, here is his reply :


The 250c gives you replay also allows you to make most setting changes without connecting to escribe.

If enjoy tweaking settings the DNAc is worth he extra money.

https://forum.evolvapor.com/files/file/567-fcshare/

 

[cybrguy]

Ah probably wrong place to ask this specific question, but while I'm here...

So I've got three new 30Q batts coming to go with my incoming Reuleaux DNA250, but I only have two-bay external charger. I am planning on keeping them in the mod as if internal, but was wondering if that would be bad for the first initial charge? However would it also be bad to charge two together, then the third on its own since I don't have 3bay external charging to pair the throuple?

You have an investment in your batteries. Be good to them...
https://www.imrbatteries.com/nitecore-d4-4-channel-digital-battery-charger/