What box mod are you using / recommending for on-demand convection 510 vapes?

SloJimFizz

Unknown Member
Are there any DNA mods which take a single 18650? I'm looking for something good for an iHeat.
Lost Vape Mirage at Element.
Element has $15 off now, code: spooky15 for orders over $100. :o spooky40 for 40 off of $200 order.
Here in a cool wood trim. No sale though, but bad ass and the one I've been hemming and hawing about.
 
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cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
I am trying mightily to stick with the pact I made with myself that I would NOT get MAS trying to find the perfect mod. I would rather spend that $$, if it must be spent, on vapes rather than mods. So, even tho I don't find my RX 2/3 very usable in TC mode (don't use it at all), I am much more likely to get a Z and continue to use wattage mode than get a new better mod.
 

SloJimFizz

Unknown Member
@cybrguy The 2/3 is working nicely with my Splinter Z. Took some work tweaking FJ's firmware, but I've got it functioning as the Tubo does. Not dead on knuts temp wise, but the regulation of wattage delivered is there, adjusted to my draw speed.
Using FJ's firmware throughout, I have the Splinter tuned in nicely, and am pretty close to having my I heat dialed in on another Evic mini. I did make a donation to @funkyjunky for his awesome firmware. :bowdown:

219qr2u.jpg
 

Hippie

Well-Known Member
Lost Vape Mirage at Element.
Element has $15 off now, code: spooky15 for orders over $100. :o spooky40 for 40 off of $200 order.
Here in a cool wood trim. No sale though, but bad ass and the one I've been hemming and hawing about.

If you view the Fasttech site in desktop view you'll often see items have a MAP (manufacturers minimum authorised pricing) and that you need to use the code MAP at checkout to see the real price they're selling at.
The Mirage is one of those, the real price is $96 with the code MAP at checkout.
Unfortunately the MAP coupon code cannot be combined with other codes when they have a sale on so their Halloween 10% code TREAT10 doesn't get you any extra discount in this case, unlike the VT75D I just ordered :)
 

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
Using FJ's firmware throughout, I have the Splinter tuned in nicely, and am pretty close to having my I heat dialed in on another Evic mini.
I have tried both FJ's software and Arctic Fox and I couldn't get either to work well in anything but wattage mode with Splinter. I usually just run AF. I may give it another try this weekend but I'm not hopeful.
I must be missing something.

Added: I see your Z has a much higher coil setting. Is that the Z compared to the Splinter, or is it the different mod? My default coil setting is more like the one on your evic...
 
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HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
Added: I see your Z has a much higher coil setting. Is that the Z compared to the Splinter, or is it the different mod? My default coil setting is more like the one on your evic...

Looks about right my splinter is .234 the splinter Z is .400. The 2 hole Z @Vitolo received was .396.
If your splinterZ showing in the .240 range should remeasure the coil should be higher. Seems there a range lowest I seen so far is @SloJimFizz running .370 highest is .400.

What are others seeing as the cold resistance on there splinterZ?
 

nachooo

Well-Known Member
Looks about right my splinter is .234 the splinter Z is .400. The 2 hole Z @Vitolo received was .396.
If your splinterZ showing in the .240 range should remeasure the coil should be higher. Seems there a range lowest I seen so far is @SloJimFizz running .370 highest is .400.

What are others seeing as the cold resistance on there splinterZ?
Mine is a two holes one , resistance is 0.397 in a wismec releaux 2/3
 
nachooo,
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cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
So, are you being passive aggressive or did you just forget that we don't use imgur anymore since they blacklisted us?
I'm betting on the former... :doh:
 
cybrguy,
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virtualpurple

Well-Known Member
I’m using the wismec Reuleaux dna250.

I like it but I am still learning the appropriate way to use it.

I’m encouraged by reading your good results with the Z and @funkyjunky’s firmware @SloJimFizz. I find myself missing cruise mode and would like to find a nice cheap mod I can load that firmware up to because I really enjoy being able to use on demand or pop into cruise mode.

Anyone have suggestions for a low-cost mod that can accommodate? I had a Joytech cuboid for a few years but it cratered on me so I am looking for a replacement.

Honestly if I could load that firmware onto my DNA mod I would do it in a heartbeat.
 
virtualpurple,
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funkyjunky

www.lamart.ch
Manufacturer
I’m using the wismec Reuleaux dna250.

I like it but I am still learning the appropriate way to use it.

I’m encouraged by reading your good results with the Z and @funkyjunky’s firmware @SloJimFizz. I find myself missing cruise mode and would like to find a nice cheap mod I can load that firmware up to because I really enjoy being able to use on demand or pop into cruise mode.

Anyone have suggestions for a low-cost mod that can accommodate? I had a Joytech cuboid for a few years but it cratered on me so I am looking for a replacement.

Honestly if I could load that firmware onto my DNA mod I would do it in a heartbeat.
hey man, i wanted to reply to you weeks ago. you should try reactivating your cuboid with this procedure: http://i.imgur.com/JNY1vlg.jpg

basically plug in usb with no batteries, hold down plus key, update with tubo firmware, it should come back to life.

edit: also this was meant as pm, but oh well :haw:
 

virtualpurple

Well-Known Member
hey man, i wanted to reply to you weeks ago. you should try reactivating your cuboid with this procedure: http://i.imgur.com/JNY1vlg.jpg

basically plug in usb with no batteries, hold down plus key, update with tubo firmware, it should come back to life.

edit: also this was meant as pm, but oh well :haw:

I appreciate the guidance brother! I’m away from home for another 8 months or so, but you’ve really got me hoping I didn’t toss it before I left! I will have to see if I can sweet talk my girlfriend into looking for it! I’m also hoping I can talk her into sending me my tubo and my tubo-x along with it! If I can get that cuboid back in business I will be over the moon! You’re awesome!
 

subway13029

Well-Known Member
I appreciate the guidance brother! I’m away from home for another 8 months or so, but you’ve really got me hoping I didn’t toss it before I left! I will have to see if I can sweet talk my girlfriend into looking for it! I’m also hoping I can talk her into sending me my tubo and my tubo-x along with it! If I can get that cuboid back in business I will be over the moon! You’re awesome!
so how are you sending these messages? 8 months locked up is a good while..lol
 
subway13029,

oddjobold

Vape swap shop
Looking for a 2nd mod. Wanted a smaller single battery mod. Put an order in for a wismec sinous P80. However i changed my mind. After i read some more it uses the same 510 connector as all the other joytech mods. Could not bring myself to buy another mod where i was afraid to change the atty.

Gone for another smoant. Smoant naboo. My smoant cylon has been faultless. No custom firmware or replay, but i never felt i needed it. Just worked. Plus the 510 connector looks really well made. Not a single battery mod - but i will live with the extra size that is not too much.

Naboo comes in funky colours with a touch screen.
 

SloJimFizz

Unknown Member
That looks sweet @oddjobold Please rock that Music Mode on the naboo and report back. :nod:

I want to share a few key tweaks I've used to get my Splinter, Splinter Z, and I Heat cooperating with the latest Tubo firmware by @funkyjunky
Preface by saying I'm assuming you know how to navigate the deep editing of the firmware using the fire/+ button enter editing. I'm using two Evic minis, (I have no problem with their 510 connector and just $34) and a Wismec Reuleaux 2/3.
First thing I do is change the "clicks" around a tad to include ability to edit on the main screen. For me, I don't use Warm up, which is the default 3rd click. So I put temp step in the 3rd click, Edit in the fourth click position. So now when you want to adjust wattage, you can do it from the main screen.

30u5k03.jpg


Next is entering in your cold ohms of your atty in the Tubo slot in the Manage Coils menu. I zero everything it looks like.

raooqq.jpg


Then set your watts and a comfortable temp on the main screen using the 4 clicks to get to edit mode to change the watts. Navigating the main screen while editing can be a tad tricky imo, but once you get the hang of it, it's relatively easy.

2uiye01.jpg


Now the fun/tricky/rewarding part, figuring your M # (tcr#) in the Tubo Set in the Coils menu. You want to find the number that lets your mod heat up to the temp you set, then drop the wattage, then when you draw, starts to feed watts to maintain that temp, and drop again when back up. It is helpful to be able to see the watts and temp on the screen while tuning/adjusting. I did it in front if the bathroom mirror. Key is to getting your temp to only drop 5-10 degrees below the set Temp, so the amount of watts fed back in, can cut off once it's hit your set temp. You don't want the temp dropping 30-40 degrees when you start drawing, or the watts will keep feeding as the temp trys to build back up.
Focus on getting it acting as you like at 390. Check the low end for when vapor starts and high end char zone for more fine tuning later. Let's focus on getting the thing stable first.
My Splinter M # is 127
My Splinter Z M # is 230
My I heat is 105.

25eyxpx.jpg


In cruise mode and even in on demand mode, it does take a few seconds to get the vapor flowing, but once heated up, the train keeps a Rollin.
Sorry for the lengthy post. Hope this helps some and does not confuse.
Good luck and happy :sherlock::science:
 

buddingglasshead

Well-Known Member

This mod is only good if you either use a heatsink or never remove what you attach. Wismec is known for extremely crappy 510 connections. It's just a rubber piece around the core and not "spring-loaded" like they say. I'm on my second one.

Not a big deal if you're handy with a soldering iron and dremel because you can put a better 510 connection in, but most people probably don't want to do that and good luck trying to deal with warranty and getting a replacement.
 

virtualpurple

Well-Known Member
This mod is only good if you either use a heatsink or never remove what you attach. Wismec is known for extremely crappy 510 connections. It's just a rubber piece around the core and not "spring-loaded" like they say. I'm on my second one.

Not a big deal if you're handy with a soldering iron and dremel because you can put a better 510 connection in, but most people probably don't want to do that and good luck trying to deal with warranty and getting a replacement.


Good note to buy a few short heatsinks.

Looks like a great deal for the cash. 4 batteries provides a lot of juice!

*EDIT*

Can anyone recommend a heatsink to buy? I figure I should have one for each device but I’m not sure if some have a lower profile or if the widths get funky.
 
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Summer

Long Island, NY
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