The Chinese SJK Induction Heater and The VapCap

[LesPlenty]

Most E-bay sellers provide an adapter to suit the country the buyer is in, I did not know they were on Amazon, useless fuckers should have given you an adapter or the proper plug for US.
I just put a dab of superglue on my adapter to keep it in place on the plug rather than rewire.

 

[westchop]

useless fuckers

I agree. I specifically bought mine on US Amazon to avoid this problem.
Thanks for the superglue tip.

 

[Ricardo]

@westchop Bummer to have it all there in front of you and not be able to plug it in. Aren't you going to try heating with a lighter? I know I'd be looking for heat sources in your situation.

 

[westchop]

Yeah it was a huge bummer. Fortunately the adapter will be here tomorrow.

I thought filling and maintaining lighters was going to be a complete PITA but I did order a couple for backup. Now that they're here I think they're so cool.

https://www.cigarking.com/jetline-phantom-single-flame-torch-lighter/

I also got the phantom double. Tomorrow if I have time, I'll see how re-filling goes. Once my M gets here I'll try them and try the SJK.

 

[LesPlenty]

My replacement is finally underway to me
I have missed my auto turn on and double bangers.
How is the longevity of the fanless guys/gals going?

 

[Hackerman]

I have been using mine without the fan since I posted about it a while back and I don't notice any change vs using the fan.... except, no noise. LOL

It definitely does not overheat. My guess is that they needed to the fan to pass some kind of certification or safety spec.

 

[djboby]

After a while of using SJK Technic Induction heater it suddenly died. I discover that the problem was begin from C2 (22nF/2KV) and culminated with the MOSFETs.
If someone need the wiring diagram, i posted here.
The microcontoller is an unknown chinese version but can be replaced by Attiny84 with a little trick. (bend the pins on the other side and insert the MCU into the base so that the power pins coincides).

 

[Hackerman]

Probably the relay. That's what failed on mine.

What are the symptoms?

 

[djboby]

Thank you for your quick replay.
the relays is working fine. i wait now for a replacement of mosfet until then i drawed the wiring diagram for understanding.

 

[Hackerman]

Cool. Let us know how it works out. Nice job on the schematic.

 

[djboby]

I made some correction in the schematic. The leds was wrong. Sorry. I will analyze also the working of the MCU and i will post the result.

 

[LesPlenty]

Links to your replacement parts and pictures of them being changed out would be nice.

 

[beezee420]

Links to your replacement parts and pictures of them being changed out would be nice.

I am debating getting getting one now, its so cheap! anyone get Dave's glass insert for it?

 

[westchop]

I just got one and for some reason, it causes the SJK to stop heating before the vapcap clicks. The light starts to flash and I have to turn the unit off and back on. It could be a coincidence but it didn't start happening until I started using the insert.

 

[Hackerman]

The heater will cycle 4 or 5 times and then it stops heating. Safety feature, no doubt.

You don't need to turn it off. Just pull the Vapcp out of the hole for a second and then re-insert it. The proximity sensor will turn it off and on for you.

It's a safety feature that stops the heater after (I think) 5 cycles. I usually only need to go more than the 5 cycles on a cold cap. Once I am using the cap and it is post the initial warmup, reheats always click before the cycles time out.

Try that and let us know how it works.

As for the insert and it's part in this, it's probably just absorbing some heat so it is taking the VC a tiny bit longer to click.

 

[westchop]

Hi Hackerman. Thanks for your reply. Unfortunately, pulling the vapcap out doesn't stop the red light from flashing. The only way I can get the heat to turn back on is to turn it off and back on. My vapcap is warm now so I have to wait for it to cool down but I'm pretty sure that without the insert, a cold vapcap clicks after 6 or 7 clicks of the IH and then I leave it in for another second or 2.

 

[Hackerman]

Not sure what could be causing that.

Try running it no more than 3 or 4 cycles, then remove for a second then re-insert until click.

Do anything that makes sure you don't run over 4 cycles without removing.

Basically, don't let it time out.

See if that works.

 

[westchop]

Thanks, I'll try that.

 

[djboby]

I have two sjk heaters that I fix. one I repaired and it works perfectly and the other is for the study. I noticed there is a 3.1s heating cycle and a 0.25s break. In that pause, the proximity sensor checks the existence of a metal object inside and, depending on the result, stops the cyclical heating. a microcontroller commands the heater. in some models, if the metallic object remains inside for more than five cycles, the heater enters the protection, the LED flashes and the heating stops until the object is pulled out. the sensitivity with which the metal object is detected can be adjusted from the inside. attention to the risk of electric shock! I apologize for the rush of writing the message. I will come back with more detailed explanations.

 

[Ricardo]

I just got one and for some reason, it causes the SJK to stop heating before the vapcap clicks. The light starts to flash and I have to turn the unit off and back on. It could be a coincidence but it didn't start happening until I started using the insert.

I don't have a glass insert or wand (and don't understand what it is) but I know that my SJK heater doesn't work with the Original Glass Vapcap. No problems with the Omni or any wood or Ti bodies or stems but the glass definitely messes with the sensor.

 

[Hackerman]

I don't have a glass insert or wand (and don't understand what it is) but I know that my SJK heater doesn't work with the Original Glass Vapcap. No problems with the Omni or any wood or Ti bodies or stems but the glass definitely messes with the sensor.

That's odd. All I ever use in my heater is my glass DDave water wand. Never had a problem with it working. Occasionally, I use Phat's stem and I don't see any difference in performance.

 

[ubardog]

water wand still has the Tip and cap both metal. The Vapcap OG has glass tip and only a metal cap. not ength metal mass , possably

 

[Hackerman]

Really??? I didn't know the OG didn't use the tip. Cool.

Yeah, that is probably it. Not enough mass.

However, you could probably adjust the POT next to the proximity chip and adjust it to work with the OG.

 

[djboby]

The sjk heater has been designed for metal objects. The proximity sensor is based on changing the inductance of a coil when inserting a metal object inside. Because the heater uses the induction for heating, only metal objects can be heated.

 

[Ricardo]

water wand still has the Tip and cap both metal. The Vapcap OG has glass tip and only a metal cap. not ength metal mass , possably

This makes a lot of sense