iHeat 510 Heater Cartridge

[KeroZen]

Nah you read it wrong it's 0.03% Carbon. Steel is Fe + C. Stainless just adds various amounts of other elements, but mostly Ni and Cr, and often Mn.

In the formula you gave Fe is still the predominant element, it makes up the remaining to reach 100%.

202 has much less Nickel and slightly more Chromium to compensate (and yes, more Mn while 316 has more Mo). Nickel is a potential carcinogen and even without that, Nickel allergy is a real thing and you can develop it over time with exposure.

https://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/toxfaqs/tf.asp?id=244&tid=44

In fact 316 and 316L are the worst grades for our application as a heating element. They have a lower TCR precision and they contain more Nickel. We would be better of using 304 or 430.

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

Nah you read it wrong it's 0.03% Carbon. Steel is Fe + C. Stainless just adds various amounts of other elements, but mostly Ni and Cr, and often Mn.

In the formula you gave Fe is still the predominant element, it makes up the remaining to reach 100%.

202 has much less Nickel and slightly more Chromium to compensate (and yes, more Mn while 316 has more Mo). Nickel is a potential carcinogen and even without that, Nickel allergy is a real thing and you can develop it over time with exposure.

https://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/toxfaqs/tf.asp?id=244&tid=44

In fact 316 and 316L are the worst grades for our application as a heating element. They have a lower TCR precision and they contain more Nickel. We would be better of using 304 or 430.

You are right that i read it wrong,but still i bought 202 from the same source and it smells like shit,no such issues with the 316L .
I have already ordered 430 to see if it is going to be resistant enough,but it is from China and could be weeks more. There is a local supplier that has Gr2 Titanium which i also try to plan as a heatshielding,even in the airpath if within herb vaporization temps should be safe.
If the 202 gives gives you nasty smell ,i can send you some of the 316L or the Ti when i get it,to try with the iHeat.
@KeroZen
Edited: I guess the data from the site i am checkin is not true.. You are right saying Ni is much less.
SS202 has 4-6% Ni vs 10-12 Ni for the SS316l .. It is like twice the ammount.

 

[Alan]

I recently purchased a DNA75C based mod box the HCigar VT75D. Here is a photo of it with a cocobolo iHeat and matching roasting tube. Matches the fake wood panels pretty well.

I have really been enjoying it. There are two 18650 batteries, so it lasts a long time. It has some really neat features like a puff display where you can see a graph of your battery, power, and temperature of each puff you take. A big help in determining your draw speed to get the best hit at a given ohms, watts, and temperature setting. I have locked the resistance value using escribe software so that it won't always ask me if I want to change the resistance value when it senses a new value. Working really well in temperature control mode.

One of the things that I have discovered about the 510 thread system is that it allows micro-arching which creates carbon deposits on the threads and center screw. The carbon deposits need to be occasionally cleaned off to give the best performance. I find the easiest way is to tightly grip the 510 cartridge threads using a paper towel and then unthread it which will allow the paper towel to wipe the threads. I jamb a wadded paper towel into the threads on the mod box and twist to wipe them. If an ecig fluid is also used with the mod box, it is possible that the fluid can get on the threads an cause conductivity issues. Conductivity issues can sometimes be resolved by simply twisting the iHeat slightly to wipe the carbon off the threads without having to remove and clean the threads.

@Abysmal Vapor - The 510 decks are commercially purchased, but then I need to modify them before installation. There are two connection points on each side which makes the deck too tall, so I cut one of them off to shorten it. The deck is provided with a squonk style ss center screw which has a single slot and a tiny hex screw to close off the squonk hole. On the prototype iHeats, I simple ground down the screw to remove the single slot so that the screw did not extend so far into the mod box and over compress the spring. I now replace the hollow squonk center screw with a solid ss screw that has a hex slot. @KeroZen has a prototype unit that still has the hollow squonk center screw. A replacement solid center screw would definitely help the performance.

 

[sixstringsmash]

Oh man oh man oh man. Just got an email from Alan, my iheat should be arriving in the mail tomorrow! This is such a good good vaporizer weekend for me! Today my custom WS arrived, and now I find out from Alan he already shipped my iheat and that it's coming tomorrow! I'm like a fucking kid on Christmas here!

 

[Hackerman]

Mine arrived today 1 day ahead of schedule. Very nice.

I think I'll rub a little dab of Phatpiggie's wood wax on it. Bring that beautiful cherry out a little.

So far, I say, simply awesome. First hit right out of the box was a winner running in wattage mode with only 20w.

I like TCR mode. Without having to read the entire thread, is there a known TCR setting that works?

Thanks and thanks to Alan.

Also worth mentioning is a very cool roasting tube that extends to twice it's length. I don't like short stems and this is a great way to have a long stem and still maintain portability.

I am new still so I will withhold any opinions until later but so far..... wow, nice job, Alan. Looks like a winner.

 

[sixstringsmash]

@Hackerman mine just arrived too!!! Even though the mod and the unit are two different species of wood they match so well together!

In regards to TCR, Alan told me he was using it in a SS316L profile, so if your mod doesn't have a SS316 profile you can set the TCR to anywhere between .00088 and .00092 for most mods.

 

[Diggy Smalls]

@Hackerman mine just arrived too!!! Even though the mod and the unit are two different species of wood they match so well together!

In regards to TCR, Alan told me he was using it in a SS316L profile, so if your mod doesn't have a SS316 profile you can set the TCR to anywhere between .00088 and .00092 for most mods.

When I've gotten it to work, my seeingse were around there. My mod turns off and on to maintain temp, so I don't use it that much.
What is this mod you have for it? Is that a wooden cover for a popular mod? It looks awesome together

 

[sixstringsmash]

What is this mod you have for it? Is that a wooden cover for a popular mod? It looks awesome together

Nah that's a nicomod, Ancient technology by today's box mod standards but it's got a yihi sx350j chip in it. The mod itself is all stabilized spalted maple burl. It's an awesome little box mod but a few years behind the times on box mod technology. Doesn't stop me from using it daily still though

 

[Hackerman]

Really, really loving this thing. I did switch from the basket style screen to a tophat style. The basket style kept creeping up the tube each time I filled it. LOL

Alan also included some hemp fiber and it's my first time playing with that. It does seems to cool the hit a little. Going to experiment with that right behind the screen to try to keep the tube clean. Always nice to get a new toy to play with.

Using TCR Mode 0.00090 and 400F so far and it is a fucking fog machine.

From what I read the basic rule of thumb is the lower the TCR number the cooler the vape for the same temp. So, by that rationale, I should keep setting the TCR lower and lower until I am no longer getting the performance I want and then go back one notch and set it there.

Can I set the TCR too low as to damage anything?

Also, WTF is that 'silicone' sleeve around the water adapter? It's a real 'stretchy' silicone that joins 2 different size glass tubes. I would love to have a foot of that for some other stem work. All my silicone tubing is more rigid than that. Love to know what that's called and where to get some.

Awesome vape, @Alan And, just beautiful. I need to get a picture of it next to my E-Nano cherry stand. They are a perfect match.

So far, I am thrilled. If I still feel this way in 48 hours, I'll order another just for a backup. LOL

Thanks again for a job well done.

 

[sixstringsmash]

From what I read the basic rule of thumb is the lower the TCR number the cooler the vape for the same temp. So, by that rationale, I should keep setting the TCR lower and lower until I am no longer getting the performance I want and then go back one notch and set it there.

Can I set the TCR too low as to damage anything?

The TCR setting merely helps the mod read the coil accurately to give it accurate performance. Once you have that dialed in you shouldn't adjust it and you should just adjust the temperature with the actual temperature settings. If you want a cooler vape just lower the temp and if you want a hotter vape raise the temp.

 

[Hackerman]

Cool thanks. I got the 'rule of thumb' from here...

Larger TCR values will give a hotter vape, whereas smaller TCR values will give a cooler vape, for the same temperature value.

https://www.ecigssa.co.za/guide-to-fine-tuning-temp-control-vaping.t18206/

Pretty good read so far. I am still getting through it.

Thanks again

 

[Haze Mister]

Got mine recently. Beautiful work and works real good... Vape on demand, yeah!!
Not something I'd be using at home without a bubbler as it is hot and dry... like all similar free airflow convection vapes will be...

I can confirm that the 510 connector is not quite long enough to work well with the Steam Engine mod. I was able to get it to work by unscrewing the little hex screw in the 510 by a few turns so it sticks out just a little. This allowed it to make contact but it is not a reliable solution (it needs re-doing every time you remove the iHeat).

This center pin issue is the iHeat's weak point. Alan, please consider an alternative deck with a spring loaded copper center pin if possible?

I really would like to find a side-by-side mod box for it that doesn't look as awful as that Witcher...

 

[HerbieVonVapster]

The only other side by side that iheat fits is the movkin disguiser. Run TC but it's a large mod. Here's mine with woodgrain stickers to match my iheat.

 

[Diggy Smalls]

The only other side by side that iheat fits is the movkin disguiser. Run TC but it's a large mod. Here's mine with woodgrain stickers to match my iheat.

But it took some modification to make it fit, right? How difficult were these mods? Having a mod that encloses it like that would mean I could actually take it about. My wood is a little loos on the base. It has a magnetic cover that goes over the opening that reveals the iheat, right? It is pretty damn wide.

 

[SavageCore]

-snip-

That's beautifull! I've come up on the list just waiting to hear back

Asked for a contrasting burl-y stem and unit, so excited to expand the 510 range!

 

[sickmanfraud]

The only other side by side that iheat fits is the movkin disguiser. Run TC but it's a large mod. Here's mine with woodgrain stickers to match my iheat.

How can you add medicine?

I bought one of these, but I see no way of loading without screwing and unscrewing the iHeat.

 

[PPN]

How can you add medicine?

I bought one of these, but I see no way of loading without screwing and unscrewing the iHeat.

Please, give a look at one of my post explaining the mods to do. But once it is installed you can't use another atty on this mod in a quick manner since you have to unscrew/screw the top of the mod to remove the Iheat, nothing crazy at home but not on the go.

edit: no problem for loading though.

 

[HerbieVonVapster]

How can you add medicine?

I bought one of these, but I see no way of loading without screwing and unscrewing the iHeat.

You load the medicine in the stem and not into the iheat. You then insert loaded stem into the iheat.

Now you do need to loosen 3 screws on top of mod to remove iheat from mod. Unless changing mods a lot really it's not a issue I feel. Takes less than a minute. Considering not whole lot of option and run TC figured share the knowledge.

Hopefully see a SBS someday that works great and hold our 510 devices. It is what it is for now.

 

[Andreaerdna]

Maybe it has already been reported but i just switched back to original screen (long time i was using arizer basket rimmed screens) and vaping is more even. I guess aluminium ring in arizer basket screen act as a heat sink accentuating tunneling

@Alan how is your hcigar treating you? I love compact size and ergonomics of witcher and have found the watt needed for my breath speed (25w with small fluctuations depending on air temp mainly) but i am always interested if there is a way to upgrade my experience...soo is it a real improvement ?

 

[Alan]

Have been really enjoying my hcigar @Andreaerdna. I find that the vapor is not as hot as when using wattage mode and the flavor is better. Have been using it with my osage orange pineapple iHeat unit recently. I still enjoy using my Witcher box too. It still requires some preheat time unlike the hcigar which produces vapor as soon as you push the button. The DNA75C board is really amazing.

@sixstringsmash - Thanks for posting the photo. It looks great. Sorry for telling you the wrong material type for the coil. It is 316 ss. Glad to hear it is working well for you.

@Hackerman - Happy to hear you are enjoying your iHeat. The screens don't move as much once the glass starts getting dirty. Hope you have good luck with the hemp fiber. The silicone tubing I use is Silcon brand from US plastics. It is the most neutral tasting silicone tubing I have found. Available in many different sizes. There is a minimum order, but you can always find a use for silicone tubing.

@Haze Mister - Glad to hear it arrived safely. Sorry to hear about the screw not being long enough for that mod box. Always on the lookout for a better 510 solution. I will send you the squonk screw that came with the 510 deck as it sticks out a bit farther.

Have been spending most of my time recently on roasting tubes. Here is a shot of the 2.5" long roasting tubes from my recent batch which was a monster. Still need to get a shot of the longer tubes from the batch.

Have also started making 19/22 wooden roasting tubes that will accept dosing capsules. Here is a buckeye burl one that has both 18mm and 14mm tapers in addition to a glass mouthpiece tube.

They can be used with either the dosing capsules or a 12mm basket screen. If it is used with the 12mm basket screen, the screen can be positioned at the end of the 12mm hole which is about 3mm below the rim of the tube end. The 14mm hole for the dosing capsule provides room for stirring without spilling. The wood steals less heat away from the roast since some of the wood has been removed from the end of the tube.

Happy roasting

 

[Easywider]

@Alan Looking fantastic, Really looking forward to these !

 

[Hackerman]

@Hackerman - Happy to hear you are enjoying your iHeat. The screens don't move as much once the glass starts getting dirty. Hope you have good luck with the hemp fiber. The silicone tubing I use is Silcon brand from US plastics. It is the most neutral tasting silicone tubing I have found. Available in many different sizes. There is a minimum order, but you can always find a use for silicone tubing.

I ordered some after we talked and they shipped it next day and I had it 2 days later. Minimum was only 10 feet and when it came, there was almost 13 feet. Good count. LOL Great company. Thanks for the referral.

As for the silcon....I totally love this stuff. It is OK for short whips. A little limp for long whips. But it is awesome for so many uses. It will connect just about ANY 2 pieces of glass. Makes WPA's out of any piece. This stuff is so stretchy, it fits anything from 10mm to 19mm. The 10mm is a little loose but if you roll it over like a shirt collar, it snugs up just perfectly. And, it is so stretchy, it will wrap the top of a 19mm piece.

Also loving this iHeat. Combusted for the first time today. Don't know what happened. Same settings as always. First hit, no warmup... bam, ignition. Emptied and started over and all was good. Don't know why that one time... Box mod must have malfunctioned or something.

Thanks again for everything. It's been a real pleasure doing business with you.

 

[Diggy Smalls]

Oh man that tiny little stem that can hold the dosing capsules is cool, especially with the two tapers and the glass. Very versatile.

 

[HerbieVonVapster]

Damn them there some nice tubes.

Also had to comment on the pineapple iheat. Thats really a neat looking device. Other than cosmetic is there any other differences than the regular iheat?

 

[HerbieVonVapster]

The FCSHARE files have been updated with new setting and new profiles.

Changes to the maxs output temperature have been made in this download you can only go as high as 445 degrees for temperature settings. At 445 the temp protection now kicks in on the DNAc download. If temperature is too low for your use the setting is under mod then safety tab.

I set it this way for wattage use. This setting should cut off power in wattage mode before load reach combustion

https://forum.evolvapor.com/files/file/567-fcshare/