• Do NOT click on any vaporpedia.com links. The domain has been compromised and will attempt to infect your system. See https://fuckcombustion.com/threads/warning-vaporpedia-com-has-been-compromised.54960/.

What box mod are you using / recommending for on-demand convection 510 vapes?

Kevea

Well-Known Member
I recently purchased a Splinter and I’m new to the mod world so I did some research before buying one. I ended up purchasing a Lost Vape Paranormal DNA250c as my very first mod and pretty much love everything about it. It’s soooo crazy efficient with the Splinter.

However, it only fires for 10 seconds even after continuing to hold the fire button down. The screen continues to say firing but I can definitely tell there’s no heat being produced as I draw. If I pulse the fire button there’s no issue with vapor production as I continue a long draw.

Is this the default behavior of this mod? Can this cutoff be tweaked in a menu somewhere or must it be changed via the Escribe software?

Thanks to anyone that can help clear this up for me!!
 

HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
I recently purchased a Splinter and I’m new to the mod world so I did some research before buying one. I ended up purchasing a Lost Vape Paranormal DNA250c as my very first mod and pretty much love everything about it. It’s soooo crazy efficient with the Splinter.

However, it only fires for 10 seconds even after continuing to hold the fire button down. The screen continues to say firing but I can definitely tell there’s no heat being produced as I draw. If I pulse the fire button there’s no issue with vapor production as I continue a long draw.

Is this the default bahvior of this mod? Can this cutoff be tweaked in a menu somewhere or must it be changed via the Escribe software?

Thanks to anyone that might be able to help clear this up for me!!


Hi try this theme and splinter setting you still need the run case analyzer but should work

DNA250c_only.ecig
 
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KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
Hey guys, I've just ordered this tool called "Focusecig Vapor Polish Jig" from fasttech >> https://www.fasttech.com/products/7462700

Haven't tested it but I think it could be useful to maintain our 510 ports (male and female) on the long term. They tend to attract dirt and grime easily and those with brass or copper pins will develop oxides and contaminants films pretty fast, and those in turn will create contact resistance which is bad for proper TC operation.

Another reason to dedicate one mod to one single attachment: once it's screwed in place, it reduces air contact and should slow down oxidation.

But let's be honest, we would be better off without those damn 510 connectors. They are not very reliable and are the source of most problems we encounter. And I'm still convinced we can achieve more precise temperature regulation by using dedicated sensors rather than just extrapolating temperature by reading tiny resistance fluctuations.
 

HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
Hey guys, I've just ordered this tool called "Focusecig Vapor Polish Jig" from fasttech >> https://www.fasttech.com/products/7462700

It looks interesting I'm a little scared with hands when i saw you use a drill. Let me know how it works. My spinner/heatsink is wearing out so need look into something else :(


8754500-3.jpg
 

TheRobbo

Well-Known Member
I dont think that jig is for cleaning the threads... Pretty sure is to screw onto either male or female thread, and then insert into a drill. Allowing the item to be spun and pollished! As per the pucture above, nothing to do with cleaning the threads as far as I can see
:peace:
 

HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
I dont think that jig is for cleaning the threads... Pretty sure is to screw onto either male or female thread, and then insert into a drill. Allowing the item to be spun and pollished! As per the pucture above, nothing to do with cleaning the threads as far as I can see

Humm after looking at it again I think your right that this is for more for just polishing the mod body itself. Not for cleaning the threads. Makes more sense now why you need a drill and polish for it.

Might make a good mod internal resistance calibration tool for DNA devices?
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
Haha you are both right. I found it while looking for a 510 shunt to calibrate mods internal resistance, and it was so cheap I thought I'd give it a try (but really pure copper shunts should be better, they just cost more)

Then I didn't really thought too much about the cleaning part. I imagined I could put some mildly abrasive polishing paste/compound on the female part of the tool and screw my attachments in, to polish the male 510 threads. Afterwards I would just clean the stuff up with ISO and cotton.

For the mod 510 female threads I would hesitate to do that as it would be harder to get everything off in the end. Could work though... or not at all!

But indeed it seems it's absolutely not what the tool is meant for! My bad, it's a bit embarrassing... :rolleyes:

PS: @HerbieVonVapster there's also the same option to calibrate mod IR inside AF advanced settings
 

HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
PS: @HerbieVonVapster there's also the same option to calibrate mod IR inside AF advanced settings

Thanks have to check it out. The sur_evic has a shunt setting whats it called in AF?

ut indeed it seems it's absolutely not what the tool is meant for! My bad, it's a bit embarrassing... :rolleyes:

Naw just shows you human. Explains why I couldn't wrap my head around it. Plus now you will have the prettiest shiniest mods on here :)
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
Thanks have to check it out. The sur_evic has a shunt setting whats it called in AF?

Go to "Advanced" tab and you'll find "Internal resistance" which defaults to zero ohm. It's right under "Shunt correction" which allows to correct poorly calibrated ohm-meters (internal to the mods that is, i.e the shunt resistance) Say if you have a mod that reads everything too high compared to all your other mods, you could use that second parameter to correct the readings.
 

an0maly

Well-Known Member
I didn't see that one on the ArcticFox supported device list. Just Joyetech, Eleaf and Wismec. I'm kind of hooked on setting up different profiles for each of my atomizers or vaporizers. I'm a noob with mods and want to keep things as simple as possible for myself. What does the better chipset do?
 

Easywider

Simple is the way
That's correct, AF is only for Joytech, Eleaf, Wisemec. I'm a noob all over again as i've been out of the ecig vape scene for about 4 years. From my understanding Mid level and high end DNA devices have better chipsets ( the brains of the device ). Flashing the firmware with AF allows entry level mods with "ok" temp control to function more like higher end devices.

Here's a great in depth review for both devices.

https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic...hony_vapes_joyetech_espion_infinite_mod_tech/

https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic...c/anthony_vapes_smoant_cylon_mod_tech_review/
 

Megaton

Well-Known Member
Has any one found a workaround for an overheating rolo r200s? It never skipped a beat when using with ejuice, but it overheats very quickly when run with our 510 attys. I have found that it can just about get to temp in the cruise mode of the tubo software with my dcg2 before the board hits 70° and it shuts down. Cells etc. Still cool to the touch at that point too.

Luckily i have a dna mod too, which never overheats, but it also doesn't offer the same software flexibility that some flashable mods do!
 

an0maly

Well-Known Member
That's correct, AF is only for Joytech, Eleaf, Wisemec. I'm a noob all over again as i've been out of the ecig vape scene for about 4 years. From my understanding Mid level and high end DNA devices have better chipsets ( the brains of the device ). Flashing the firmware with AF allows entry level mods with "ok" temp control to function more like higher end devices.

Here's a great in depth review for both devices.

https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic...hony_vapes_joyetech_espion_infinite_mod_tech/

https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic...c/anthony_vapes_smoant_cylon_mod_tech_review/
Nice. I was actually looking at the Espion Infinite and other Espion models the other day. The Smoant Cylon looks really nice. As a huge BSG fan, I think I'd get that one if I knew better what I was doing with mods - if nothing else just because it kind of looks like a mod that crew members would use on the Galactica.

As a noob, it feels like the better option for me at this point is to stick with a mod that is commonly used here and on FC. I especially love the profiles that you can setup in AF/RP. Kind of makes it dummy proof for me, which I have begrudgingly realized I need right now. Maybe I'm just getting too old for this shit. :) Now if the Smoant Cylon or Espion Infinite support profiles, then they might just work for me.
 

tennisguru1

EXCELSIOR!
That's correct, AF is only for Joytech, Eleaf, Wisemec. I'm a noob all over again as i've been out of the ecig vape scene for about 4 years. From my understanding Mid level and high end DNA devices have better chipsets ( the brains of the device ). Flashing the firmware with AF allows entry level mods with "ok" temp control to function more like higher end devices.

Here's a great in depth review for both devices.

https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic...hony_vapes_joyetech_espion_infinite_mod_tech/

https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic...c/anthony_vapes_smoant_cylon_mod_tech_review/

That gimmick junky Espion Infinity is a dumbass led light show,
the good one my buddy had me hit is this one I ordered, looks & works great. With Red Panda Flash (AF Color Ver.) it is really nice.
Like the smoant_cylon also nice for the money.
thx for your experience
 

an0maly

Well-Known Member
I will be happy when I can get one that supports Red Panda with a nice large touch screen on one side and a bluetooth speaker on the other side (as long as the speaker isn't crap).
 
an0maly,
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Hippie

Well-Known Member
Has any one found a workaround for an overheating rolo r200s? It never skipped a beat when using with ejuice, but it overheats very quickly when run with our 510 attys. I have found that it can just about get to temp in the cruise mode of the tubo software with my dcg2 before the board hits 70° and it shuts down. Cells etc. Still cool to the touch at that point too.

Luckily i have a dna mod too, which never overheats, but it also doesn't offer the same software flexibility that some flashable mods do!

I use heat sinks and insulation gaskets to reduce the heat and protect the 510 connections a little on all my mods with the Splinter and Stempod.

A page of atomizer heat sinks :
https://www.fasttech.com/search?atomizer heat sink
And some gaskets
https://www.fasttech.com/search?insulation gasket

Some heatsink and atomizer combinations will sit with a small gap between them so I only really added the gasket to fill that gap to be honest. It varies a lot so you may not need one, or you might need to sand one down a little to make it fit perfectly (like I did).
 

Hogni

Honi soit qui mal y pense
I think this manual and link list by @tennisguru1 is worth to also share here.
For sure interesting for people who'd like to use Red Panda for their Sai, Sequoia, QQ or Triton and are looking for optimized settings for different buckets of each.



Cool, looking forward to trying those.
I think it a great tradeoff , the hassle & wait & all else that takes away from my high.
I love the Ti/Skillet for it's no brainer works every time .
I use TCR 333 & trc 315 depends on what Mod , as they are a lil diff 1 & 2 battery Joyetech
By upping the watts to 44 , gets to temp quicker & at 290-310 first hits real terpy & smooth, then I just got up 5 -10 degs a pull till gone . To easy and smoother since I changed temp & starting curb, This is all on myevic firmware 20 sec auto default settings

When my new Espion mod gets her going to experiment with Red Panda a color version
of Arctic Fox with all these atty saves by @daltesean from reddit
have no experience as Myevic always works great with my mods, but here I go
any advice?


Sai, Seq, DTV3 and Triton Arctic Fox Profile I updated the release of my Temp Control Profile to the latest Arctic Fox and Red Panda Releases also included a Mac script to install any dependancies and launch the toolkit.

Everything is in the download, firmware, profile, patches and tools.

User Manual!!
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1uF5xCzg-8LqbiCwom5oKJWhIBnt7COsrCWytwYN5Yfk/edit

Downloads:
https://gofile.me/2c3tF/rxqfTgTC6 (Main)

https://pixeldra.in/u/zi2F1j (Mirror1)

https://www.filedropper.com/dalteseanv180818 (Mirror2)

(If anyone knows of any other decent Mirror sites (no ads!!) or would like to host another Mirror let me know.)

Install:
  1. Download and decompress file.
  2. Open NToolBox. (For Mac Right click the NToolboxMac.command file and select open (first launch only) it will install any missing dependancies, you will either need to have Xcode or command line tools installed, otherwise it will install it also but you will need a admin password at launch, first launch takes 5-20 min to fully set up the wine environment. This "should" eliminate any issues with new users and setting up Wine.... fingers crossed :D )
  3. Select "Firmware updater"
  4. Plug in Device and wait for it to recognize then Select 'Update from File'
  5. Select your desired Patched Firmware from the firmware folder. (If it fails try again until it takes)
    1. af_180617.bin unpatched file.
    2. af_180617_Enjoy.bin Patched to replace Protection with Enjoy (If you have a small screen device like the Pico use this one.)
    3. af_180617_Enjoy_PotStartup.bin Patched to replace Protection with Enjoy and a 420 boot screen for large screen devices)
    4. af_171126_Enjoy_HVTStartup.bin Patched to replace Protection with Enjoy and a HVT fanboy boot screen for large screen devices.
    5. RP_180706.bin Red Panda firmware
    6. myevic.bin Tubo myevic firmware for herb vapes. (very small segment of AF mods are compatible with this.)
  6. Click cancel to return to the main NToolKit screen and select ArcticFox Configurator.
  7. Click the bottom Hyperlink of "Open Existing Configuration"
  8. Navigate to the Profile folder and select the profile.
  9. Click 'Upload Settings' (May Take a few tries for it to take)
  10. Unplug your Mod.
  11. Double click your fire button to choose the correct profile. (All should work out of the box, Lock your resistance in a 68° room, all profiles are preset but coils do degrade over time so your coil maybe different.)
  12. ENJOY!!!!
Mac Users:
Since the profile has posted the homebrew installer has started stalling after installing the "Command Lines Tools" . Simply close out of the terminal window after its been idle for about 10-15 min then restart the .Command file. (Only a issue the first launch and only if you don't have XCode or Command line tools installed already)
After firmware update you MAY get a pop Information (window)

An exception occured during dataflash reading.
Unable to open HID class device.

Disconnect the Mod, click on OK button and reattach your Mod through USB. If it persists, disconnect the Mod then completely close out of the toolkit including closing the Terminal window then relaunch via .Command file and reattach your Mod through USB.

All Credit for the Emulation method for Mac does to user SpaLife at the NFE forums I only wrote the wrapper to do it all automatically for you guys.

Profiles:
SAI TAF- For the Saionara Top Airflow Bucket. (adjusted +100°F at 380°F)

SAI 3TI - Saionara triple TI coils.

10MMDISC- 10mm Donut profile. Sai Donut and older Divine Tribe 10mm coil.

SEG TAF- For the Sequoia Top Airflow Bucket. (adjusted +100°F at 380°F)

13MMDISC- Seq Donut and newer 13mm Divine Tribe donut.

TRITONTI- Triton Titanium. set for the double ti relock the resistance at 68° for the sirous coil.

TRI 1701- Triton 1701 buckets. (adjusted +100°F at 380°F)

QQUEST- Quartz Quest

Usage:
Hold fire button - Fires Mod for up to 15 sec puffs

2 Clicks of Fire button- Select Profile

3 Clicks of Fire button- Edit Profile wattage and display (Press and hold both -/+ to reset counters in edit screen, tap fire button to change between options, hold fire to exit)

4 Clicks of Fire button- Key lock (Locks Temp useful while sharing)

5 Clicks of Fire button- Device Lock/UnLock (Power on if turned off)

Device will auto Lock after 15 min. (Child and Pocket safe)

Press and hold both -/+ to Power the Mod off (Not Needed IMHO as the 0.01 volt per day is not worth waiting 5 seconds for it to startup lol, but people ask for it... so) (5 clicks of fire button to turn back on)

While powered off Press and hold both -/+ to Flip screen.

Press and hold both -/Fire to turn on and off Steath Mode

Press and hold both +/Fire to access the Settings menu. (almost every option of the mod can be changed here.)
 
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kuzko

Well-Known Member
Was researching smallest box mods and came across the Artery Nugget X. Its a 50W mod that does some TC. Its also super tiny! The battery suffers from the size obviously, i think its a 13650 1000mah? The dimensions are 55.5mm by 31mm by 22mm.

I went ahead and purchased a used on off eBay just for the fun of it. Here it is with a Splinter, Modpod, and Sai atomizer. Pretty tiny...:lol:





 
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