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Discontinued The Splinter by RBT

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analytika

Well-Known Member
Interesting that the Splinter has a privileged position here in the main vaporizer forum when it's 100% clearly a so called "ecig based" 510 mod based vaporizer.

Why are deserving products like Divine Tribe's Quartz Quest banished to the ecig thread ghetto while the Splinter gets shelf space here?
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
Bah that category is a bit obsolete anyway no? At first it was to host all the crappy electric pipes that looked like thin e-cigs... but nowadays? :shrug:

I'd rather have the DT attys moved over there than the Splinter and iHeat banished to the ghetto like you said.
 

pakalolo

Toolbag v1.1 (candidate)
Staff member
Interesting that the Splinter has a privileged position here in the main vaporizer forum when it's 100% clearly a so called "ecig based" 510 mod based vaporizer.

Why are deserving products like Divine Tribe's Quartz Quest banished to the ecig thread ghetto while the Splinter gets shelf space here?

If you have an issue with a moderator decision, you should send a PM as per our rules.

It should be pretty obvious how we decide which devices are in the E-cig sub-forum. It is clearly not based on whether the device uses a box mod.
 

HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
Spent a couple hours messing with escribe. I'm getting mod and splinter really close to allowing my dream draw. Currently running in TC mode at 360tcr SS316 using 50watt preheat setting for 1.3 seconds. Then 23.5 watt. With the puff cutoff at 20 seconds.

Basically once it gets to 390 in tcr I take a puff. The lower wattage I used keeps a more even constant temperature well drawing. It's now matched closely to a draw speed I am most comfortable using.

I'm no longer having to adjust my breathing to stay at the temperature range I most enjoy. Plus once reaches the temperature it cuts wattage way back so doesn't overcook the load. So getting the most constant temperature I have ever have from the RBT heaters.

When ready for next hit that 50w power preheat with a warmed splinter is ready in seconds. I hit fire button and by time I start inhaling it's quickly back to temperature. If I want a little boost durning draw can also refire for that 1.3 second 50watt boost.
 
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AJS

Calm Consistency
Spent a couple hours messing with escribe. I'm getting mod and splinter really close to allowing my dream draw. Currently running in TC mode at 360tcr SS316 using 50watt preheat setting for 1.3 seconds. Then 23.5 watt. With the puff cutoff at 20 seconds.

Basically once it gets to 390 in tcr I take a puff. The lower wattage I used keeps a more even constant temperature well drawing. It's now matched closely to a draw speed I am most comfortable using.

I'm no longer having to adjust my breathing to stay at the temperature range I most enjoy. Plus once reaches the temperature it cuts wattage way back so doesn't overcook the load. So getting the most constant temperature I have ever have from the RBT heaters.

When ready for next hit that 50w power preheat with a warmed splinter is ready in seconds. I hit fire button and by time I start inhaling it's quickly back to temperature. If I want a little boost durning draw can also refire for that 1.3 second 50watt boost.
Wow, this is impressive.
 

pakalolo

Toolbag v1.1 (candidate)
Staff member
I keep combusting in my Splinter. I think I'm doing something wrong.

I'm down to 20 watts. Maybe my screen isn't in right? Or maybe my draw speed is too low? I'm a slow inhaler.

Sorry, I meant to reply to this the first time I saw it and got distracted.

What resistance do you have set? If it is too high, this is what will happen.
 

HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
@HerbieVonVapster, what mod are you using? Am I correct in assuming that with your programming, you press the fire button & then it heats at 50W for 1.3 sec & then drops downautomatically to 23.5W for the remaining 18.7 seconds?

I am using a wismec reuleaux dna250 went with that due to look and the price. Can find them for under $80.

Still messing around to get to a better TCR Value. Try step below instead. Rest is correct i forgot to add my prepunch is at 11.

Best way check I found is go in device monitor. Then take a draw. Watch what temperature your draw settles then use that as you TCR.

Yes you assume right. Remember the setting are for my rate of draw. Each person will need play a bit to get settings adjusted to there own draw speed the amount of vape hit and temperature.

4123e6c4bfcb76ffe97335fe371577aad62fa8ba.png


Pic above isn't mine and it has tc off. Just wanted show device monitor screen.The whole things customizable. I can change any screen to my liking tons of premade to choice from. Can even make you're own.
Mine's still in progress but it's once get setting and screens done. First wanting make sure now of the settings will damage a splinter. I'll try find somewhere host the file.

If anyone is interested in helping me test this PM me I send a alpha file to you. If enough members are interested can might make new topic for this. Considering the possibles with steampod heat iheat and other 510 devices.
 
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bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
I'm still curious what I'm supposed to do to burn off my new Splinter and configure my eLeaf Invoke mod.

Should I just fire it up at 70w and blow through the short mouthpiece it came with a bunch of times?

Edit: these are the settings when I just screw it on and let the mod pick everything...

20180708_145405_2.jpg
 
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HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
I'm still curious what I'm supposed to do to burn off my new Splinter

Received this email from Ryan


Instructions on how to burn-in your Splinter


Place the unit on a mod box capable of producing 70 watts
Place a clean mouthpiece with no screen or product in the splinter
gently blow into the mouthpiece as your fire the mod at 70 watts for 10 - 15 seconds
Continue to blow into the unit for another 10-15 seconds to cool the heater and clear any volatilizes from the heater chamber
You might detect some odor and/or see some smoke / vapor as any contaminants burn off - this is normal
Repeat the process 2-3 times with one at least 3 minutes between successive firings
Allow the unit to cool and resume use - Please allow 4 - 5 sessions for any odor or taste to completely go away.

We appologize for this over sight and have made sure safe guards are taken to prevent it from happening again.

Peace,
Ryan
 

Baked-not-fried

riding the Cannabreak train...
Received this email from Ryan


Instructions on how to burn-in your Splinter


Place the unit on a mod box capable of producing 70 watts
Place a clean mouthpiece with no screen or product in the splinter
gently blow into the mouthpiece as your fire the mod at 70 watts for 10 - 15 seconds
Continue to blow into the unit for another 10-15 seconds to cool the heater and clear any volatilizes from the heater chamber
You might detect some odor and/or see some smoke / vapor as any contaminants burn off - this is normal
Repeat the process 2-3 times with one at least 3 minutes between successive firings
Allow the unit to cool and resume use - Please allow 4 - 5 sessions for any odor or taste to completely go away.

We appologize for this over sight and have made sure safe guards are taken to prevent it from happening again.

Peace,
Ryan


RBT really should be printing this to paper and including it w/ the Splinter. I got this same email at least a week after I got my Splinter. I really think this should be in the bag it comes in. I understand all vapes should have a burn-in, but there are many others that may not. Honestly, I didn't burn it off at 70 watts before I blazed through it. Hopefully I didn't inhale some nasties. Surely not the worst shit I've ever inhaled, but that's not the point. Other than that, still compiling my feelings for the Splinter. Mine came with a shorty clear and a shorty cobalt stem. They're both pretty hot as far as vapor goes. I'm looking into getting a cooling stem or at least a longer one. So for now, I've been using the Splinter sparingly. Good thing is, with all the helpful tips here, I can get fat clouds for days if I want. I'm running it on a Primo, stock from the box @ 27.5W - 33.5W. Anything over 30W is treading on thin ice w/ my draw style. Could easily combust. I think if I had a choice, I would prefer the rounded edge style Splinter over the new straight edges. I'm running w/o a heat sink, I didn't read what that was all about, but heat never seems to be an issue when I'm using it?. I do know for sure, this will be my last VAS purchase for awhile. Still bitter I missed my discount and paid full price! :rant: For now, it fits the convection spot.
 

AJS

Calm Consistency
I really think this should be in the bag it comes in. I understand all vapes should have a burn-in, but there are many others that may not.
Agreed, should be included. He should be performing his in house burnoffs like he did with the Milaanas from this point on. It was something that was accidentally missed when he shipped them off I believe. So I think it won't be necessary anymore.
 

HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
Agreed, should be included. He should be performing his in house burnoffs like he did with the Milaanas from this point on. It was something that was accidentally missed when he shipped them off I believe. So I think it won't be necessary anymore.

I did a burn off at 50watts when I got it. I redid it after a week of heavy use 100's of hit. At 70watts I did indeed get a repeat of the smell of the first time..weak but there. Lucky all my use has been in low wattage well under 50watts.

I would highly Suggest to take these steps if you haven't already especially if you are in the first batch.

OK now excuse me as I cough up more blood..just joking guys.

Not to belittle the concern, I feel I was exposed to 10 times today worse just checking Transmission fluids with van running. I take care of my health but in this day and age it nearly impossible to avoid breathing in toxic fumes.
What I can avoid is the stress or worry about this. If you haven't done so do burn a in now be safe. Can't change the past. Worrying and stress will do you far worse damage.

My understanding is everything now is done before shipping in the current ones. Still it's a good ideal on new vaporizers to do a burnin.
 

wall

Well-Known Member
Finally got around to getting a mod for my splinter, did the burn in and loaded the stem, turned it down to 35.5 watts (after being at 70 for the burn in) and took a few hits. I dig it! Got vapor from the first cold hit :brow: It was no ajs hit but if I'm seeing vapor I'm usually pleased
 

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
Thanks @HerbieVonVapster!

I was slow to see this so my first burn off with the eleaf mod pictured above was done two ways (me just trying stuff).

I did 70w while blowing into the short mp for about eight seconds and I also tried a similar length 70w burn blowing into each of the little air intake holes on the side. Blowing in the side holes produced some nasty smelling fumes and visible smoke - more than just wisps. Having read the recommended method I'm realizing I didn't wait long enough between burns. After letting it cool I've tried both the approved stem blowing and the made-up air intake blowing and I'm not smelling nasty shit or seeing smoke or residue vapor.

Update: I don't know if blowing through the air intakes was good bad or neutral but the overall process of burnoff gave me a strange headache for an hour after I was done so safe to say I was huffing some of the off gassing just by being in the room. Folks might want to do their burnoff outside or near an open window or something.
 
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wall

Well-Known Member
Also the new FJ stem does work with these, it fits loose and the capsule sits on the coil screen but it does work, got some pretty decent hits so for on the go it would be nice although not a perfect fit
 

Hogni

Honi soit qui mal y pense
Do you mean these GonG adapters?

What are the differences to any other adapters of this kind aside the internal glass screen which shall be useful just for whole nugs?

Which accessories (stems, top hat chamber etc) from 420edc are also recommanded for the Splinter and why?

Doesn't Ryan offer stems, screens etc. himself? Or do I have to order accessories exclusively at 420edc?

Am also interested in the XL8R but that is currently not offered at Ryan's site.
 
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Summer

Long Island, NY
I'm running w/o a heat sink, I didn't read what that was all about, but heat never seems to be an issue when I'm using it?. I do know for sure, this will be my last VAS purchase for awhile.

I'm getting a heat sink so as to be able to detach the Splinter from the mod via the heat sink so I don't have to keep unscrewing the 510 Splinter adaptor directly so as it doesn't separate from the wood as has been know to happen.

@Megaton, you need an 18mm male (for the Splinter end) to 14mm male or female depending on your joint -- I assume a 14mm female. A 19/22mm to 14/20-whatever would be the best. Buy it at any of the online shops: grasscity, thickassglass, tokecity, wherever. As of now Ryan doesn't have any plans to sell them. I'm gonna suggest to him that he does cause he's getting the real good German glass now & he can get ones that fit great for the 19/22 & the new 19/19. They'll probably cost more because of the quality, but well worth it, imo.

And yes, the next batch on will have the burn-offs. That last batch was an oversight. Could never hurt to do another burn-off. Vapefiend requested Start Cards (instructions) to be included with the vape, so going forward there will be directions.

@Hogni, during the last IG livestream, I suggested to Ryan that he sell the long stems & screens. He acknowledged that would be a good idea. He also said that while he's finishing up the waitlists, the website wouldn't be updated for a couple of weeks. So, let's see if he puts up screens & stems. If not, I will ask him again. Will also ask about gongs. I, too, would like to get extra basket screens. He's definitely gonna be selling the XL8R stems. Should you get your Splinter invoice ask him if he has any stems & screens you can purchase at the same time. Also, you can buy stems from 420edu as the 19/22 stems that 420 currently has is supposed to, per Ryan, be backward compatible. Write them & ask them if they got one of the new 19/19 Splinters in &, if so, have them check to see if they properly.
 
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Hogni

Honi soit qui mal y pense
@Summer, thanks, my dear! :tup:
As an international customer it's some kind of unneeded not to say annoying hassle for me to order all these neccessary or useful parts all around the US which is combined with a lot of time, unneccessay shipment costs, customs trouble and fees and taxes I hate all like the pest :bang:
 
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