VapCap Induction Heater for Desktop and in Car Use

[FryMeALiver]

Thank you

 

[goodpunk6]

So Pipes is gonna send me a replacement BMS Board! yay!!! I'm stoked!!!

 

[phattpiggie]

As you mentioned it @Pipes only fair to follow up with a video of the first Mini IH.
M tip with a hemp fibre ball and 3 different rosins and a bit of shatter thrown in for luck.
'F@#k the click' T shirts to come
And yes it hit me like both

 

[rz]

@phattpiggie IH surfing - best way to F@#k the click! Srsly, once you get the hang of it, it's super quick and efficient. I can complete a cap before my buddies even finish grinding their shiznit.

 

[FryMeALiver]

Hey again folks....... So I made my purchases and they are on their way to me. I wanted to ask if anyone might have any recommendations or advice on how, and with what supplies I might wire up the battery, the protection board and the power indicator to my IH.

So, to recap I have bought this:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/zippy-compact-2200mah-3s-25c-lipo-pack.html?___store=en_us

....as well as this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3S-11-1V-12V-Lipo-Battery-Protection-Board-With-Balance-Function/162587467145?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

....and this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3s-4s-12V-lithium-battery-capacity-Tester-display-panel-power-indicator-board/332671617339?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

And I am fitting them to my IH: (pics link below)


I'm tempted to speculate here on what I am thinking I should do, but I am honestly a little lost. I assume the battery has to go between the power jack and the mosfet, with the protection board and power indicator coming off its own connection from the battery? So I would assume I need to buy some 'xt60' connectors?
I also will need a power adapter/charger..... I would imagine my current 12v/6a is a bad idea? Should I get a specific lipo type adapter at 12v?

So many questions, I am eager to press on though. Any more Qs or tips, or need me to post some more pics, give a shout !
Thanks all........thank you all !!



EDIT: Is it possible to just build a stand alone battery pack with these items in a suitabley sized box, to power what I have via the current jack? Not sure if it would be my best option....... but is it possible?
Scouring this thread for anything useful, but so far I can't find the right info........

 

[Pipes]

Hey guys, have an announcement about current models.
I'm going to discontinue the Skeletor unit. I will honor all current requests but that will be the end of them as a pre-assembled DIY unit.
As a replacement unit, and to keep the real DIYfers happy, I'm going to offer a Bare Bones or BB components as separate items.

This will consist of:
The BB driver assemble.($30)


The BB Battery harness.($20) This is the complete wiring needed to wire up the BB Driver. Includes BMS, Kill switch, charge port and battery indicator. For use with 3S, JST type battery. (NOT the XT type)


The BB Desktop Harness.($5) A standard harness with DC input port.

Charger.($10) This is needed to work with the BB Battery harness.

Power supply.($15) This is needed for the BB standard harness. Can also be used with the Battery harness if no battery is installed.

This change does eliminate the use of 18650 batteries and the purchaser will need to buy their own 3S RC battery. Since these batteries come in many shapes and sizes, the capacity is completely user's choice. I will source some recommendations and add to my FAQ document. To broaden the battery compatibility, I will also include an optional XT60 to JST adapter ($4). Currently awaiting stock.


This is for individuals who might want to get a much bigger battery to get back on par with the 18650 Skellys. For example, here is a 3000 mAh puppy.

I think that the BB will be a more flexible unit to configure and opens the door for even more crazy customization.

My FAQ is now updated to reflect the changes.

 

[DeeCee5]

Hey guys, have an announcement about current models.
I'm going to discontinue the Skeletor unit. I will honor all current requests but that will be the end of them as a pre-assembled DIY unit.
As a replacement unit, and to keep the real DIYfers happy, I'm going to offer a Bare Bones or BB components as separate items.

This will consist of:
The BB driver assemble.($30)


The BB Battery harness.($20) This is the complete wiring needed to wire up the BB Driver. Includes BMS, Kill switch, charge port and battery indicator. For use with 3S, JST type battery. (NOT the XT type)


The BB Desktop Harness.($5) A standard harness with DC input port.

Charger.($10) This is needed to work with the BB Battery harness.

Power supply.($15) This is needed for the BB standard harness. Can also be used with the Battery harness if no battery is installed.

This change does eliminate the use of 18650 batteries and the purchaser will need to buy their own 3S RC battery. Since these batteries come in many shapes and sizes, the capacity is completely user's choice. I will source some recommendations and add to my FAQ document. To broaden the battery compatibility, I will also include an optional XT60 to JST adapter ($4). Currently awaiting stock.


This is for individuals who might want to get a much bigger battery to get back on par with the 18650 Skellys. For example, here is a 3000 mAh puppy.

I think that the BB will be a more flexible unit to configure and opens the door for even more crazy customization.

My FAQ is now updated to reflect the changes.

You are the man!
Order coming your way

 

[Foretwintee]

There a FAQ for use? Like

charging times?
how long we can leave in after click?
how to tell if it's charging?
Turn unit on to charge?
Can it be used while charging?

Portside Mini

 

[V-apE]

@Foretwintee, here you go and scroll down.

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1_202eBzWeF7rkTjqV5sWumPxtbSNtfjqOZEs1i9d16k/edit

 

[Foretwintee]

@Foretwintee, here you go and scroll down.

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1_202eBzWeF7rkTjqV5sWumPxtbSNtfjqOZEs1i9d16k/edit

I didn't see any answers to my questions.

 

[Newcastle]

@Foretwintee I was lost when I got mine as well. Charging time is under an hour. Wish I had a better answer but I have only had mine for a few weeks. The power switch nerds to be on. When you plug it in the light on the charger goes from green to red. When it turns green you are good to go. I believe Pipes says it is okay to use while charging. I think the only question left is time after click. I treat the M different from the Ti tips. The M I go past the click maybe a fast 1000-1, 1000-2, 100-3. count to slow and beware.. Ti tips I respect the click. I hope this is what you were asking....My thumbs are tired!

 

[Summer]

There a FAQ for use?
charging times?
how long we can leave in after click?
how to tell if it's charging?
Turn unit on to charge?
Can it be used while charging?

Portside Mini

Don't know how long to fully charge takes.
Can go as far as 4-1000 on the 1st heating cycle. You'll have to determine how long works for you. I do 4-1000 on 1st & 3-1000 on 2nd.
The light is red when charging & green when charged
Unit doesn't have to be turned on to charge

Sure can! Of course if batteries are completely drained, will have to give it 5 minutes to get the charge out of the basement, and after that, use away.

 

[Edgedamage]

I wanted a heater to hide in plain sight so I made the coffee can:

When on a shelf it looks normal.
View from the top I was too lazy to make a push switch in the coil, so I used a lighted switch:

I built the unit as per the skelly build, only thing diffrent is the BMS it's 20A and it all fit in the can. Two large magnets hold it in place on the bottom, and foam keeps the inside from shifting. I gave the can a good shake and no movement:

Main power switch and charge port:

I use a hobby charger and charge @ 1amp:

It's powered by three LG HG2 18650's. I have the glass tube on route, and I can get O rings from work. The hole saw grabbed the thin metal and made a ugly holes. I will get another can and try a faster drill with lighter pressure.

 

[Skunkport]

Nice! I resorted to a dremel with a conical grinding head to get even holes in some thin aluminium I made into button surrounds for my car, metal punches and normal drills just tore it up.

 

[ParanoidAndroid998]

Has anyone had to replace the induction heating coil/unit? I'm still trying to get mine working with no success. I've replaced the FET board twice, no luck. My wiring should be good. I'm wondering if I burnt out the coil/unit on my first attempt when I used an xbox power adapter. It got really hot at one point. Getting no heat now.

 

[Foretwintee]

New user here... charger gets extremely hot when heater is near full charge and blinks red/green. Normal?

I should add I'm charging with the switch in the on position.... also when I unplug the charger from the wall...the light stays green as if it is scavenging power from the heater. Normal? Sorry , just trying to learn this stuff

 

[Pipes]

The charger does get quite warm and should go to green. They maybe some flicker through the transition from red to green. If not going to green, use as it is for a few cycles. Is this the first initial charge up?
Yes, unlike the original PS, the switch needs to be on to charge. The reason is so the charge port is not active while in ones pocket where keys could cause a short.
Also, with the switch on and charger plugged in but not into the wall, the charger's LED will light up from the voltage on the port.

@WAM90, look close at the FETs under those big ass coils, bet you can find evidence of them burning up. Anyway, it does sound like they shorted. But would need more information. Does the blue led come on or any led indicators? Any success using without the FET switch board? Is the xbox power cube the right ratings? And is it still outputting or showing evidence of working via a LED on itself?

 

[MAbud]

@Pipes is there a car charger you recommend for the PS Mini?

 

[ParanoidAndroid998]

The charger does get quite warm and should go to green. They maybe some flicker through the transition from red to green. If not going to green, use as it is for a few cycles. Is this the first initial charge up?
Yes, unlike the original PS, the switch needs to be on to charge. The reason is so the charge port is not active while in ones pocket where keys could cause a short.
Also, with the switch on and charger plugged in but not into the wall, the charger's LED will light up from the voltage on the port.

@WAM90, look close at the FETs under those big ass coils, bet you can find evidence of them burning up. Anyway, it does sound like they shorted. But would need more information. Does the blue led come on or any led indicators? Any success using without the FET switch board? Is the xbox power cube the right ratings? And is it still outputting or showing evidence of working via a LED on itself?

I'm no longer using the Xbox PA. I'm using a generic 12v 6amp one from Amazon.
I've tried several configurations and I always get the little blue led on the heater blinking in unison with the power adapter and no heat. I just tried plugging the power adapter directly into the heater without anything else in the circuit and i'm getting the same blinking led. No sign of damage underneath the coils on the heater. I may have damaged it somehow when I was trying to use the xbox adapter.

 

[Foretwintee]

The charger does get quite warm and should go to green. They maybe some flicker through the transition from red to green. If not going to green, use as it is for a few cycles. Is this the first initial charge up?
Yes, unlike the original PS, the switch needs to be on to charge. The reason is so the charge port is not active while in ones pocket where keys could cause a short.
Also, with the switch on and charger plugged in but not into the wall, the charger's LED will light up from the voltage on the port.

@WAM90, look close at the FETs under those big ass coils, bet you can find evidence of them burning up. Anyway, it does sound like they shorted. But would need more information. Does the blue led come on or any led indicators? Any success using without the FET switch board? Is the xbox power cube the right ratings? And is it still outputting or showing evidence of working via a LED on itself?

Ok cool. I f-word love this thing. My buddy loved it so much he got on the list haha. Definitely opened up flavors that the torch didn't

 

[Pipes]

I'm no longer using the Xbox PA. I'm using a generic 12v 6amp one from Amazon.
I've tried several configurations and I always get the little blue led on the heater blinking in unison with the power adapter and no heat. I just tried plugging the power adapter directly into the heater without anything else in the circuit and i'm getting the same blinking led. No sign of damage underneath the coils on the heater. I may have damaged it somehow when I was trying to use the xbox adapter.

The 6 amp supply is kicking into protection mode. I have tried a few supplies which act like this, including a couple 6 amp units. It all depends on how the supply reacts to the initial surge. IIRC, the xbox one might be a better fit but never had any experience myself with it.

@MAbud, I have them as an optional accessory but you can likely get quicker from Amazon. Just search for "12.6 volt car charger". You should have the 12.6 volt 3s charger units come up.

 

[caliganja420]

Wish i could afford a Portside Mini

 

[cybrguy]

You need to think bigger. I wish I could afford an SLS AMG.

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

I've seen few post asking if the induction heater can work on the vaponic , i had initially though of adding a thin SS CAP or just a sleeve ,but that might be just too much metal for this heater.Today after going into the same stream of though i actually realized that the older concept of the Vaponic called Vapbong can work in this concept . Vaponic can also be converted to vapbong by just adding a mesh sleeve/screen at the tip.
I guess we wont know if works 100% until someone try it but it is still a good idea.

It can even work with a bare induction heater module, you wont even need a glass insert like you do with the vapcap .

 

[Used2use]

a lightly rolled up or 'harmonica folded' mesh/foil between inner and outer tube at the length of the normal heated area should be ideal, bc more heated surface...