VapCap Induction Heater for Desktop and in Car Use

Megaton

Well-Known Member
My apologies, it has probably been asked before, (i tried the search to no avail) but i am trying to find a guide to build one of these bad boys, i need something that really spells it out for me as i've never built anything like this before!

Edit: biggup to @antispleen who i also messaged who has shared another users guide with me. If anyone would like to see it let me know and i will share here if that is allowed.
 
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kuzko

Well-Known Member
I received my Jarhead from Pipes about 6 months ago and from the beginning I was fine using it in its default “jar” but always had plans to create a custom box for it.

Well, today, finally, I mustered up the energy to do it. I thought about making one from scratch but then I found a small box in my house that belongs to a game called “Shut the Box”. I drilled the necessary holes and fastened the Heater to the lid and it ended up being fairly easy. The only thing is I can no longer see the red light when the heater is engaged but that’s no big deal. The box is even big enough to store some DV accessories. Here’s some pics. Thanks @Pipes , she’s still going strong!

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andiewill

New Member
My apologies, it has probably been asked before, (i tried the search to no avail) but i am trying to find a guide to build one of these bad boys, i need something that really spells it out for me as i've never built anything like this before!

Edit: biggup to @antispleen who i also messaged who has shared another users guide with me. If anyone would like to see it let me know and i will share here if that is allowed.

Yes Please I would not mind having a look..........
 
andiewill,
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frankbhelger

Active Member
Alright, do I get some kind of gold star for reading through the entire thread?


The last few pages, there have been several requests for laying it all out ect. Guys, pipes has really done an excellent job making this as easy as possible. If the world conducted business like Pipes it would be a better place.

The lithium battery aspect of this is about the only way to make this project simpler. If you want a happy medium between the portside and the jarhead just grab something like a 5ah 12v sla battery from amazon. These batteries are much larger and heavier but they still allow you to carry it to your front porch and enjoy the day. This battery will run the IH for a really long time. To charge it just stick any 12 volt charger on it. I would keep it under 4 amps though. Most car battery chargers will have a 2 amp option and this should be perfect.

(Random side thought on battery basics. There has been a bit of confusion. From what I know, keep your lithium batteries in the 20-80% charge range as often as possible. This will ensure you get maximum life out them. Stopping at 80% will be tough but anything to keep the batteries from setting at the tip top voltage will keep them functioning longer. If you charge it to 100% go grab the dynavap and bring the voltage down a bit ;). For lead acid (SLA) batteries keep those topped off as often as you can. Try to never discharge them more than %50 and it will be solid for many years to come. )

OK here is my slightly simplified version of Pipes design:

Order online:
Scavenge/buy local
  • 1/4 hardwood dowel (hardwood will hold up to the heat better than the softwood dowels you will find at hobby stores)
  • 18 AWG wire (this is what I used, someone chime in if this is unsafe)
  • 1/4 plywood (your local cabinet shop throws small pieces of this away everyday)
  • Hardwood block (This should be sized about 1/16th" shorter than your glass tube. Ask the cabinet shop to cut it for you if you do not have a tablesaw)
  • Wood glue and hot glue
To hold the glass tube I drilled a hole that is larger than the Dynvap cap, but smaller than the OD of the glass tube on 2 of the 1/4 plywood pieces. Then I chamfered the holes on one side. This combined with the slightly smaller size of the wood block allows the glass tube to lock in but, at least in my case I can still easily pop it out and in if needed.

As far as the wiring goes, it is pretty much all visible but for those that have questions, the back of the fet board is labeled.

Vin+ is Battery+ - I soldered the red wire to the switch to under side of the screw terminal
Vin - is Battery-
Trig/pwm is the yellow wire from the switch
Out+/Out- goes to the induction heater.

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Lazy Lighting

Well-Known Member
Is there a user guide that I can get a link to? I just got my mini. I want to make sure I am using best practices as far as charging. Really love this thing.

How many sessions do people typically get off of one charge?

Thanks!
 
Lazy Lighting,
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asdf420

Well-Known Member
I finally found a screwdriver. The battery definitely looks puffed up. It's supposed to have flat surfaces?
If it was working after plugging it into 19V, but then just stopped, can I assume all the circuitry is fine but the battery is gone? Or could I test the circuitry somehow?

thank you
 
asdf420,

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
If the battery has puffed you should replace it, it's dangerous. If it feels spongy when you press it with your finger, it means it's full of gas and that the cells inside took damage. That's irreversible. Although over time the gas might slowly leak away making it less balloony... yet the damage is done.
 
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asdf420

Well-Known Member
@Newcastle I don't know if it matters if you just plug it in while the switch is in the on position, or if one should plug it in then switch the unit on. But the switch has to be on the on position for it to charge. When charging, the LED on the charger will turn red. When it's done, it will turn back green.
Even if it arrives with a bit of charge, it should be fully charged before first use, iirc
 

Newcastle

Stoned!
The light is solid green....I was looking for a light on the unit. it has only been maybe 5 minutes plugged in.
 
Newcastle,

asdf420

Well-Known Member
You might have to press/rotate/wrestle the plug of the charger further in, for it to make contact. Then the charger's light should turn red.

I don't think it matters what the charging indicator on the unit shows when charging (when you press the button on it).
 
asdf420,

Newcastle

Stoned!
Thanks @Summer ...Wow this thing works fast and I know now why its said to go a few seconds past the click. The only question that wasnt answered is why an off on? It shouldnt drain the battery unless your using it right?
 

Summer

Long Island, NY
It shouldnt drain the battery unless your using it right?

@Pipes can you answer correctly. What I found once, contrary to what's been said, is that when I once accidentally left a fully-charged PS on for 7 to 10 days in error, the battery went from 3 to 1 blues lights. (Note, I've left the unit in off from 7-10 days many, many times & there is not battery discharge.) I'm gonna do this intentionally again to for a week with a fully-charged battery to see if it happens again. So when I finish using it & when I charge, I always turn it off. But that's just me. Give me an on/off button & I'm gonna use it accordingly. :p

As far as going past the click, you gotta figure out your own method. I'd never go past 4-1/1000th on the 1st heat up & not past 3-1/1000th on the 2nd. I don't have a set-in-stone method.
 
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Newcastle

Stoned!
@Summer thanks again. Switch is set to off...:tup: I am thrilled that it's here! My bedroom is starting to smell like butane! Speaking of smells...,The Dynavap ABV is much stronger smelling than from a Solo...IMO
 
Newcastle,
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Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
@Pipes can you answer correctly. What I found once, contrary to what's been said, is that when I once accidentally left a fully-charged PS on for 7 to 10 days in error, the battery went from 3 to 1 blues lights. (Note, I've left the unit in off from 7-10 days many, many times & there is not battery discharge.) I'm gonna do this intentionally again to for a week with a fully-charged battery to see if it happens again. So when I finish using it & when I charge, I always turn it off. But that's just me. Give me an on/off button & I'm gonna use it accordingly. :p

As far as going past the click, you gotta figure out your own method. I'd never go past 4-1/1000th on the 1st heat up & not past 3-1/1000th on the 2nd. I don't have a set-in-stone method.
It's a hard one to answer. I do know that 60% is around the recommended storage charge. But 7-10 days isn't that long so something else is at play. The PS, even in the ON state, draws zero current until the VC is inserted. There is no monitoring circuit at all.
A misread on the meter initially might be what happened, as in checking without load. Curious to see your results on the repeat test. Please report back.
 

Newcastle

Stoned!
So.... @Pipes why the switch? Also to check the battery you mentioned under load...Is that how it should be checked?...I am sure this has all been answered but gets lost in all the how toooos..:ugh: Maybe someone could post the what to do and not do for dummies....#me :freak:
 

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
The switch is there as a kill switch in case things go south. Without it, you'd be sitting there looking at a smoke generator without quick means to turn it off. Specially when it has being placed in an enclosure.
Battery measuring systems only reads the voltage which will be much higher without any load happening. Loading it lets you have a better indication of the real level.
 
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