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'The Misty Log' - DIY wooden Log Vaporizer

blokenoname

DIY Log Dabbler 😁πŸͺ΅πŸ’ͺπŸ’¨πŸ’¨πŸ’¨
Bamboo arrived, but was a bit on the narrow side from the advertised 4-5 cm diameter. One of three canes was about 4 cm. The others barely reached 3 cm.

So I made a tiny one of 10 x 4 cm. Awwwww :)

11lq4qf.jpg


Also seeing the need now, for the smaller 11 mm heater cover ;). But still have to wait for the cork. This was the only piece left and its hole is now too big, for the 11 mm glass cover.
 

blokenoname

DIY Log Dabbler 😁πŸͺ΅πŸ’ͺπŸ’¨πŸ’¨πŸ’¨
Ok... simple and maybe stupid question re. ss heater covers:

Can one of the uninsulated contacts be allowed to touch the inner wall of the ss cover, as long as the other one is kept apart/insulated from both, the other contact and the wall? Or am I producing a short out too then?

Also with @Alan design in the pic. The upper contact is wound around the resistor, to keep it centered and also acts as a kind of spring, protecting the resistor from pressure from thermal expansion. So it has to touch the wall to make this work, I assume?

Sorry... the electricity part is not exactly my greatest strength :D

ETA: decided to not give a f*ck and just tried it out. Insulated one contact from top to bottom with a piece if tiny boro glass tube and letting the other one alone and going wherever it wants, while sliding the cover on.. clearly touching one side of the ss cover wall now. Works fine. No protest from dimmer and PS. No short out.
 
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lazylathe

Almost there...
@blokenoname

One wire can touch the SD cover, only one though otherwise you will short it out.
You are correct in your assumptions!

Just make sure to fully insulate the other wire!!
 

Abysmal Vapor

Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
Lazy beat to it, i am not electricity guy also :D.. I have successfully use tubes as insulator some time ago,i remember that i saw that some else doing here on FC initially,but i cannot recall who it was probably one of the famous logvape makers :)).
I have even tried putting glass tube around the resistor instead of metal,but since glass is insulator,it started underperforming.
 

blokenoname

DIY Log Dabbler 😁πŸͺ΅πŸ’ͺπŸ’¨πŸ’¨πŸ’¨
Lazy beat to it, i am not electricity guy also :D.. I have successfully use tubes as insulator some time ago,i remember that i saw that some else doing here on FC initially,but i cannot recall who it was probably one of the famous logvape makers :)).
I have even tried putting glass tube around the resistor instead of metal,but since glass is insulator,it started underperforming.

Thanks :) Seems to be working well so far, with the single insulated wire in the ss cover.

Also managed to set the ss cover onto a cork base, without any charring :) Terrific :D
And the tiny bamboo log has now gotten the smaller, 11 mm glass cover. As this now has the same outer diameter as my ss cover, I can use it with Arizer Solo stems and WPAs. For my 10 mm ss tips, I simply made an 11 mm bushing, to make them fit over the glass cover.


2sajwg1.jpg
 

blokenoname

DIY Log Dabbler 😁πŸͺ΅πŸ’ͺπŸ’¨πŸ’¨πŸ’¨
Meh :uhoh:

This is the 3rd or 4th body, this happened to, while cooling down.

2dirgqt.jpg


Shitty quality or is it, because I tried to set the DC jack into the natural groove, that's showing on one side of the bamboo cane. Haven't had these kind of problems with the two mini bamboo models, I did before. But the thinner 4 cm cane hadn't such a prominent groove to begin with.
 
blokenoname,
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Abysmal Vapor

Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
Well if you do a logvape with moist wood it will crack while drying from the heat most of the times,probably this is the same case. One of the hardest things to do for me is to condition the wood for working, I just dont have the space to dedicate to drying and storing,luckily my friend who has a workshop has a small one but with very limited choice of wood.
Let the bamboo sit in the sun for few hours .
 

blokenoname

DIY Log Dabbler 😁πŸͺ΅πŸ’ͺπŸ’¨πŸ’¨πŸ’¨
Well... the canes came already heat-treated, as this were the only ones, I could get in the right size. And some segments had cracks already and had to be discarded.

The smaller canes I got before were untreated in any way, and also more greenish. Due to their small size, the two logs I build from them get a lot hotter on the outside and show no problems so far.

ETA: Think, I got it. The crack was already there. It's running more or less deep through the groove and along the whole length of the cane. Put some stress on it, and it will rip apart eventually.
 
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blokenoname,

blokenoname

DIY Log Dabbler 😁πŸͺ΅πŸ’ͺπŸ’¨πŸ’¨πŸ’¨
There! With a cork base to hold the heater cover, now everything fits neatly into a single one of my little maple wood goblets :D

This makes for a real nice looking, compact little vape, I'd say. Only 8,5 x 5,0 cm :)

25a1c2x.jpg
 

blokenoname

DIY Log Dabbler 😁πŸͺ΅πŸ’ͺπŸ’¨πŸ’¨πŸ’¨
Came with Ceska Posta from Swatee Electronics ;)

It's a Ohmite 25J20RE
 
blokenoname,
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Abysmal Vapor

Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
Came with Ceska Posta from Swatee Electronics ;)

It's a Ohmite 25J20RE
I have a bunch of them ,only thing i dont like about them is how the wire oxidizes with time. I've tried to insulate the heat from the airpath with a test tube,but it is just not powerful enough to transfer heat trough the glass without having to run it over its limits. Maybe i will try with some thermal paste like in the glass symphony heater some day again.
 

blokenoname

DIY Log Dabbler 😁πŸͺ΅πŸ’ͺπŸ’¨πŸ’¨πŸ’¨
I have a bunch of them ,only thing i dont like about them is how the wire oxidizes with time. I've tried to insulate the heat from the airpath with a test tube,but it is just not powerful enough to transfer heat trough the glass without having to run it over its limits. Maybe i will try with some thermal paste like in the glass symphony heater some day again.

Well, they were harder to get, as I initially thought. No electronics shop in the country seemed to have them in store and so I was lucky, when Amazon showed one single result for my "25J20RE" search.

As I'm not primarily intending to build a super healthy device with no flaws whatsoever, but rather some functional vapes that are at least relatively save compared to combustion for me own needs and that of some close friends.. and also seeing, that this kind of resistor is still used in the HI, I think, I can live with the oxidising problem for the time being.

The most interesting part in using a resistor instead of a designated heating element, is for me in it's ability to be used without a dimmer, if need be. This would be a great improvement for some of my friends, who are not used to vapes to begin with and had some trouble, finding the right setting between 'not enough satisfactory vape' and 'Oops... combusted!', which is indeed a bit difficult with the small PMW motor controller, as we're talking of just a few mm to and fro on the dial here. With a resistor log, they could simply plug it in, wait till its warmed up and then hit a bowl, without having to think of temperature adjustment.

At least.. that's the theory ;)
 

Abysmal Vapor

Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
Well ! I can use my halo log without a dimmer too. You just need to put enough distance between the herb and the heater and draw fast enough :). I agree logvapes dont require a temp control but having one is a great option .Thing is people use dimmers and remote controls in daily life,ffs i have a steam cooker which can be adjusted by 1 degrees increments,how hard would be to do that with a vaporizer.
I got my 25J0re from Mouser.eu delivery was really fast.
 
Abysmal Vapor,
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blokenoname

DIY Log Dabbler 😁πŸͺ΅πŸ’ͺπŸ’¨πŸ’¨πŸ’¨
Well ! I can use my halo log without a dimmer too. You just need to put enough distance between the herb and the heater and draw fast enough :). I agree logvapes dont require a temp control but having one is a great option .Thing is people use dimmers and remote controls in daily life,ffs i have a steam cooker which can be adjusted by 1 degrees increments,how hard would be to do that with a vaporizer.
I got my 25J0re from Mouser.eu delivery was really fast.

Yeah! Or simply putting a 5 + meter extension cord beween the PS and the vape. The result is akin more to a 15W bulb then, than to a 35W one :D

Yep. How hard could it be, to use a dimmer one would think? But apparently, some of my friends do have problems with using it. As I wanted to try out resitors anyway, I can also build them a vape they can use without one.

Personally I go with a stronger heater and adjustable temps anytime :D

Edit: Hmmm! Bit trickier, than expected, with the resistors. In my ss cover (up & running for an hour now), I'm getting maybe something like ~180Β°C, i.e. great taste but whispy vapor only (using a ss tip, already a cm inside the cover, touching the debris screen. Will add a heatsink/reflector for thermal mass and also rethink the airpath. Right now, both my covers only draw cold air from below and not akready heated air through slits on the cover's side, like in the HI and some other logs.

Guess, I've to reread @lazylathe s resistor thread :D

Edit2: Heatsink alone already did the trick :) getting decent vapor now :clap: But could be better. So lets cool down the little bugger and cut some slits :D
 
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blokenoname,
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blokenoname

DIY Log Dabbler 😁πŸͺ΅πŸ’ͺπŸ’¨πŸ’¨πŸ’¨
So... resistor log results:

After some initial disappointment, I think I got it to "work as expected" now, I guess :p

Followed most of the tips given in @lazylathe Log Resistor thread, i.e. reduced thermal mass to almost nothing, by throwing out the heatsink/reflector and the heavy brass fitting, which I used to support my ss heater cover. Reduced size of the ss cover itself from 11mm to 10mm (with an 11mm bushing, to make my 10mm ss tips fit again), cut two slits into its sides and simply stuck it into the cork base supported by a ring of high temp silicone tubing for better stability (and also, because I was to lazy to cut a new cork base, as its center hole was already to large).

For the 11 mm glass heater cover I added an 11 mm ss bushing to the tip of the glass cover itself, as its actual size seems to be more something between 10 and 11 mm, wich makes it tad too small to support and seal Solo/Air glass stems (~11+ mm ID) without an additional O-ring and too big for the 10 mm ss tips, to slid over. So instead of making new tips or adding an adapter to the existing tips, which would then stick to the glass cover... I let it stick :D

Performance wise, this setup worked out pretty well. I get ample vapor from the ss one, while the glass one is still a bit on the wispy side, though that might be improved by wrapping the resistor with ss foil, like @Alan did in the Glass Core HI. But I doubt, that I can manage that with the 0,3 mm ss sheet, I use for the heatsinks.

And while this all worked out pretty well, I can see now, why people would want to use buck converters with resistor logs, to feed a few more volts to the heater for cranking up the heat now and then. Though you can twist and tweak the design to channel the last iota of heat into the herb instead of the surrounding mass... there seems always a tad bit missing, when compared to the performance of, say my little ceramic/ss heater cartridges or a halogen bulb heater. So it needs a bit longer and some stirring, to get even roasting (and I usually never have to stir) . But ok... with these designated heaters, you can have as much heat at any time you want to, up to combustion and even setting the hole log on fire, if you so desire :D
Doesn't work that way with a 20 Ohm/5W resistor. With 12V you get what you get and that's it.

All in all, my resistor logs worked out as intended and might be exactly the right thing, for one of my friends, who had trouble finding the right dimmer setting. Plug it in, wait 7-10 minutes, stick in your tip and vape away :)

Afterthought: reducing the ss heater cover size from 11 to 10mm and cutting slits (as long, as there is ample air flow from below) doesn't seem to make any real noticeable difference. Did a second ss unit, using the 11 ss tubing again and didn't cut any slits... and it performs as well, as the first one. Guess, my initial problems with wispy vapor were mostly due to the heavy brass fitting, which I used to support the ss cover, the mass of which probably sucked away a lot of heat

Edit: Dd I mention, that soldering the heater,s 1,5 mm ss leads to the 12V jack is a real PITA? :rant:.

i73mte.jpg
 
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Abysmal Vapor

Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
@blokenoname Yep this is also my experience with metal covers - less is more :). Where do you get those metal thingies from ,? Bushings ,gotta google that shit?Are they ready made or cut them yourself from tube ?
Btw i know you wanna keep things on the mini side ,but having longer heater cover saves a lot of heat on the corks,i dont find need for a silicon rings. ;) .
 
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blokenoname

DIY Log Dabbler 😁πŸͺ΅πŸ’ͺπŸ’¨πŸ’¨πŸ’¨
@blokenoname Yep this is also my experience with metal covers - less is more :). Where do you get those metal thingies from ,? Bushings ,gotta google that shit?Are they ready made or cut them yourself from tube ?
Btw i know you wanna keep things on the mini side ,but having longer heater cover saves a lot of heat on the corks,i dont find need for a silicon rings. ;) .
Cork's just fine with the limited heat output of the resistor at this distance. Silicone ring is primarily there, because I was too lazy cutting a new cork base yesterday night. This one was holding a 13mm glass cover before, so its center hole was too big for the 10mm ss cover. Silicone to the aid :D

That's just simple thin walled (or capillary) ss tubing, I cut myself. The stuff, needles for syringes are made of. You can get them also at shops for building model kits of airplanes and the like in nearly any smaller size. The ones I use here are ~0,3 +/-mm thick. One is 11mm OD/10mm ID. The other is 10mm OD/9,5mm ID. So they fit nicely in each other. They also get neatly rounded off at the edges from the tube cutter, I use.

ETA: Oops... just when you think you got it all covered... :D So the size of the body's center opening does play a significant part in recovery and heat retention when using a resistor. Got even better performance, when setting the ss cover into the tiny 4 cm OD/3 cm ID bamboo body I made from the first set of bamboo canes, that were a bit on the narrow side. The other body had a 4 cm ID, like my maple goblets.
 
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blokenoname

DIY Log Dabbler 😁πŸͺ΅πŸ’ͺπŸ’¨πŸ’¨πŸ’¨
Well... 50 mm pine hand rail + 30 mm Forstner bit + Black&Decker = log body :D

Ok, it's only soft wood and the only hand rail with the right size at the local hardware store came with this impossible groove, but that'll do for the moment and this was more or less meant as 'proof of concept' anyway, to see, if it could be done. Should even work better, with a vertical drilling machine :)

So... looks, as if I'm finally able now, to build myself some simple wooden bodies without a lathe :)

9jd56a.jpg
 

Abysmal Vapor

Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
Nice channel on the wood,probably if the woodblock allowed it to go deep could make a nice holder for a stem :). DIY drill lathes are quite common i remember someone at the cork corner thread having one
 
Abysmal Vapor,

Abysmal Vapor

Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
Oh, dont forget to ask if the wood had undergo any kind of treatment .They spray all kind of shit on construction wood,like anti-mold stuff ,i imagine it would have some distinct odor if so but nowadays everything has it own odor free version.
Chestnut is very traditional wood for my region i plan to get some planks as soon i can afford it.
2ajupgl.jpg
 
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