It would fit any 18mm female joint.
Divine Tribe atty's
- Thread starter divinetribe
- Start date
aren't those 14mm? if so i will be coming out with some 14mm in a month or so
Good to know, just ordered the glass adapter and a J hook from DHgate!
clearlight
Well-Known Member
Did this w my old v1. Wanna try 10mm in there but need long lead ones.
This doesn't need to be wiped after each use and doesn't get hot. probably can't overload, haven't tried, will not try that.
The crucible is pretty cool, but all i ever wanted was a V3.5 that didn't require unscrewing to get down to the donut. This kinda gives me that plus the directional airflow.
Although this worked i'll still go back to my V3 now bc i can't attach this QQ/V3 hybrid to my hydratube.
imho, V3 is still the best 510-laygo device on the market. A screwless V3.5 would totally seal the deal.
This doesn't need to be wiped after each use and doesn't get hot. probably can't overload, haven't tried, will not try that.
The crucible is pretty cool, but all i ever wanted was a V3.5 that didn't require unscrewing to get down to the donut. This kinda gives me that plus the directional airflow.
Although this worked i'll still go back to my V3 now bc i can't attach this QQ/V3 hybrid to my hydratube.
imho, V3 is still the best 510-laygo device on the market. A screwless V3.5 would totally seal the deal.
Last edited:
I used to run an O ring on the base with the screws removed with my V3 for direct access. I loved the V3, I really wanted to see a ceramic crucible in it. I had designed a simple solution for one but I guess SZ wasn't interested in letting Matt modify the design any further.
some customers settings
Quartz Quest Mod Specification
Eleaf pico TCR -
300 using 50w to get to 500°f (pulse button after initial 10 seconds throughout the session)
Paranormal 166 -
tcr .00240
(ArcticFox on Pico)
Big hits: TCR 300 / 50w / 500 degrees F / resistance locked at .24 ohms
(ArcticFox on Pico)
Low and slow (more accurate temperature, but longer heat-ups and more firing to keep bucket at temp): TCR 225 / 45w / 520 degrees F / resistance locked at .24 ohms
(VooPoo GENE)
Big hits: TCR 4913 / 55w / 500 degrees F / resistance .26 ohms
LostVape Therion dna75c :
50 watts, r locked at room temp (0.238 for mine), Replay mode.
Fire it til the load boils + 1 to 2 seconds. Let off. "Save Puff". Subsequently (for fresh and partial loads, both) , just lay on the button til a few seconds before you're 'full'.
Works better, than any combination of settings tried.
Cuboid 200 & Vtc mini (both joyetech)
TCR 400, 60 W, 425°F, .25Ω
Requires pre-heat Imo. Excellent flavor
Pico E-Leaf with Arctic Fox installed.
TCR 225, resistance locked at 0.25, 414 F temp, 55 watts.
Requires 10 - 15 seconds of warmup but then it hits like a champ for 4-5 puffs.
Voopoo drag
Tcr 4913, 50w, 450, .24 resistance
It’s weird - the heaters are made of tungsten (typically TCR 450 or 4500 on GENE) but with the conversion chart it brings it to 4913. Even though the heater TCR is accurate, the heat value itself isn’t. TCR 2350/2400 is more accurate heat value-wise, but I ’m still liking the 4913 performance way more.
Rx2 21700
TCR: 235 40w-45w 510°F-540°F
Quartz Quest Mod Specification
Eleaf pico TCR -
300 using 50w to get to 500°f (pulse button after initial 10 seconds throughout the session)
Paranormal 166 -
tcr .00240
(ArcticFox on Pico)
Big hits: TCR 300 / 50w / 500 degrees F / resistance locked at .24 ohms
(ArcticFox on Pico)
Low and slow (more accurate temperature, but longer heat-ups and more firing to keep bucket at temp): TCR 225 / 45w / 520 degrees F / resistance locked at .24 ohms
(VooPoo GENE)
Big hits: TCR 4913 / 55w / 500 degrees F / resistance .26 ohms
LostVape Therion dna75c :
50 watts, r locked at room temp (0.238 for mine), Replay mode.
Fire it til the load boils + 1 to 2 seconds. Let off. "Save Puff". Subsequently (for fresh and partial loads, both) , just lay on the button til a few seconds before you're 'full'.
Works better, than any combination of settings tried.
Cuboid 200 & Vtc mini (both joyetech)
TCR 400, 60 W, 425°F, .25Ω
Requires pre-heat Imo. Excellent flavor
Pico E-Leaf with Arctic Fox installed.
TCR 225, resistance locked at 0.25, 414 F temp, 55 watts.
Requires 10 - 15 seconds of warmup but then it hits like a champ for 4-5 puffs.
Voopoo drag
Tcr 4913, 50w, 450, .24 resistance
It’s weird - the heaters are made of tungsten (typically TCR 450 or 4500 on GENE) but with the conversion chart it brings it to 4913. Even though the heater TCR is accurate, the heat value itself isn’t. TCR 2350/2400 is more accurate heat value-wise, but I ’m still liking the 4913 performance way more.
Rx2 21700
TCR: 235 40w-45w 510°F-540°F
Adobewan
Well-Known Member
You ROCK Matt!!
You're timing couldn't be better I JUST received and opened my QQ.
TY!
215z
Well-Known Member
QQv2 is amazing. Thank you Matt. It works exactly the way I expect it to, each and every time I use it. Huge rips compared to donuts. Very little concentrate loss as long as I don't overload it. The post-hit routine with the cotton swab is easy. I've run about a half-ounce through it since it was delivered, but it did take me quite awhile to appreciate the airflow of Matt's mouthpiece, it really is ingenious. For a long time I was certain I would have better results by varying the airflow using my stainless steel straw, but I was wrong. I have vaped clean distillate and the nastiest resin: the QQ is a pretty robust beast. At the dispensary nearby I can usually choose between 8 distillates for $30/g out the door, and it is the ideal concentrate for using the QQ on the go
Thank you Matt. Like many, I have fantasized for years about an atomizer like this, and made various poor attempts at improvising with rebuildable e-cig hardware. Unlike many, you crystallized the vision of the handheld nail, and risked your own money and reputation to make that vision a reality for us. You are my hero
Thank you Matt. Like many, I have fantasized for years about an atomizer like this, and made various poor attempts at improvising with rebuildable e-cig hardware. Unlike many, you crystallized the vision of the handheld nail, and risked your own money and reputation to make that vision a reality for us. You are my hero
Quartz quest sale may 25th - 31st $6 off
http://ineedhemp.com/product/quartz...past-customer-and-social-media-discount-link/
Gen 2 dc discount link
http://ineedhemp.com/product/generation-2-dc-ceramic-rebuildable-dry-herb-atomizer-copy/
V3 ceramic concentrate atty discount link
http://ineedhemp.com/product/divine...mic-donut-atomizer-fcombustion-discount-link/
If you are a first batch quest buyer s/n 1-1000 you can email me for the $32 quest deal
http://ineedhemp.com/product/quartz...past-customer-and-social-media-discount-link/
Gen 2 dc discount link
http://ineedhemp.com/product/generation-2-dc-ceramic-rebuildable-dry-herb-atomizer-copy/
V3 ceramic concentrate atty discount link
http://ineedhemp.com/product/divine...mic-donut-atomizer-fcombustion-discount-link/
If you are a first batch quest buyer s/n 1-1000 you can email me for the $32 quest deal
I also have a 75c (Therion BF), and have been using the QQ in replay mode as described above the last two days. I really liked this device before, but now that I'm able to get what I want more consistently, it's even better. If anyone has a 75c or 250c, I strongly suggest updating and trying replay mode.
Megaton
Well-Known Member
Tried my rolo 200s in cruise mode (using the tubo firmware) last night. Unfortunately the device went into "device too hot" shut down after a couple of puffs, which is dissapointing.
Not an issue with the DCG2 at all, but the mod. Will have to go back to pulsing with my DNA mod
Not an issue with the DCG2 at all, but the mod. Will have to go back to pulsing with my DNA mod
HOW I CLEAN MY QUEST WHEN THE COIL AREA IS BROWN
>i do a burn off in wattage mode at 50w hold upside down and heat until the metal base is hot to the touch, remember for coils pink hot not red hot, you can blow the coils.. i stop for 5 min let it cool off and repeat , i do this sometimes 3x, after this i let it cool some and i wipe with alcohol wipe, then take fine steal wool and wipe off any carbon left over on the cup. after this you should only notice a small amount of carbon around screw area.the ceramic rod coils should be nice and white with perfectly clear glass. I will make a video this week.
Quartz Quest Mod Specification
Eleaf pico TCR -
300 using 50w to get to 500°f (pulse button after initial 10 seconds throughout the session)
Paranormal 166 -
tcr .00240
(ArcticFox on Pico)
Big hits: TCR 300 / 50w / 500 degrees F / resistance locked at .24 ohms
(ArcticFox on Pico)
Low and slow (more accurate temperature, but longer heat-ups and more firing to keep bucket at temp): TCR 225 / 45w / 520 degrees F / resistance locked at .24 ohms
(VooPoo GENE)
Big hits: TCR 4913 / 55w / 500 degrees F / resistance .26 ohms
LostVape Therion dna75c :
50 watts, r locked at room temp (0.238 for mine), Replay mode.
Fire it til the load boils + 1 to 2 seconds. Let off. "Save Puff". Subsequently (for fresh and partial loads, both) , just lay on the button til a few seconds before you're 'full'.
Works better, than any combination of settings tried.
Cuboid 200 & Vtc mini (both joyetech)
TCR 400, 60 W, 425°F, .25Ω
Requires pre-heat Imo. Excellent flavor
Pico E-Leaf with Arctic Fox installed.
TCR 225, resistance locked at 0.25, 414 F temp, 55 watts.
Requires 10 - 15 seconds of warmup but then it hits like a champ for 4-5 puffs.
Voopoo drag
Tcr 4913, 50w, 450, .24 resistance
It’s weird - the heaters are made of tungsten (typically TCR 450 or 4500 on GENE) but with the conversion chart it brings it to 4913. Even though the heater TCR is accurate, the heat value itself isn’t. TCR 2350/2400 is more accurate heat value-wise, but I ’m still liking the 4913 performance way more.
Rx2 21700
TCR: 235 40w-45w 510°F-540°F
>i do a burn off in wattage mode at 50w hold upside down and heat until the metal base is hot to the touch, remember for coils pink hot not red hot, you can blow the coils.. i stop for 5 min let it cool off and repeat , i do this sometimes 3x, after this i let it cool some and i wipe with alcohol wipe, then take fine steal wool and wipe off any carbon left over on the cup. after this you should only notice a small amount of carbon around screw area.the ceramic rod coils should be nice and white with perfectly clear glass. I will make a video this week.
Quartz Quest Mod Specification
Eleaf pico TCR -
300 using 50w to get to 500°f (pulse button after initial 10 seconds throughout the session)
Paranormal 166 -
tcr .00240
(ArcticFox on Pico)
Big hits: TCR 300 / 50w / 500 degrees F / resistance locked at .24 ohms
(ArcticFox on Pico)
Low and slow (more accurate temperature, but longer heat-ups and more firing to keep bucket at temp): TCR 225 / 45w / 520 degrees F / resistance locked at .24 ohms
(VooPoo GENE)
Big hits: TCR 4913 / 55w / 500 degrees F / resistance .26 ohms
LostVape Therion dna75c :
50 watts, r locked at room temp (0.238 for mine), Replay mode.
Fire it til the load boils + 1 to 2 seconds. Let off. "Save Puff". Subsequently (for fresh and partial loads, both) , just lay on the button til a few seconds before you're 'full'.
Works better, than any combination of settings tried.
Cuboid 200 & Vtc mini (both joyetech)
TCR 400, 60 W, 425°F, .25Ω
Requires pre-heat Imo. Excellent flavor
Pico E-Leaf with Arctic Fox installed.
TCR 225, resistance locked at 0.25, 414 F temp, 55 watts.
Requires 10 - 15 seconds of warmup but then it hits like a champ for 4-5 puffs.
Voopoo drag
Tcr 4913, 50w, 450, .24 resistance
It’s weird - the heaters are made of tungsten (typically TCR 450 or 4500 on GENE) but with the conversion chart it brings it to 4913. Even though the heater TCR is accurate, the heat value itself isn’t. TCR 2350/2400 is more accurate heat value-wise, but I ’m still liking the 4913 performance way more.
Rx2 21700
TCR: 235 40w-45w 510°F-540°F
Last edited:
Did this w my old v1. Wanna try 10mm in there but need long lead ones.
This doesn't need to be wiped after each use and doesn't get hot. probably can't overload, haven't tried, will not try that.
The crucible is pretty cool, but all i ever wanted was a V3.5 that didn't require unscrewing to get down to the donut. This kinda gives me that plus the directional airflow.
Although this worked i'll still go back to my V3 now bc i can't attach this QQ/V3 hybrid to my hydratube.
imho, V3 is still the best 510-laygo device on the market. A screwless V3.5 would totally seal the deal.
Outer housings for the v3 that go on with just two orings arr getting done on the next production. The v3.5 will happen.
OF
Well-Known Member
As I said a while back, I've tried several techniques. This basic one (similar to say V2.5?), removing the bowl and torching it clean as first recommended, Magic Eraser (works pretty well but slow) and finally boiling. That does the trick for me so far, with all the concentrates I've tried, although there may be a really tough one out there?
I wipe out what I can, then add 3 drops of water when cold (more will boil over, less may boil dry). Heat it manually to a 'low boil' for half a minute or so. This softens the deposits enough that a wood toothpick will gently scrape what doesn't boil free off the glass. Occasionally it takes a second run at the edges if there's a large build up there. A few drops of water, a toothpick and some paper towel. Done in a few minutes and kinda fun to watch boil...... And basically no smell.
I have a clear 'Gorilla' drip bottle with ISO and a black one with water. Very handy.
Easy to try?
OF
looney2nz
Research Geek, Mad Scientist
ok, had my virgin break-in run with the QQ on my VTwo Mini.
Kind of split the different between the 280 and 400 TCR settings, @340.
55w, and 430F. Wasn't exactly billowing clouds, but I got vapor... just had to work for it.
Better settings to shoot for? (yeah, I know, I still need to install AF on this unit)
don't have my usual CO2 oils, just picked up a 1/2 dozen g of multi-fractionate distillate from OCPharm...
not as viscous as my PopNaturals, so dropped around 4 drops on my 13mm v3 donut 1st (have to reorder some more 10mm!), and then tonight did the same on the QQ. slightly confusing, how many draws are you supposed to be able to make on the QQ, before you let it cool down and then wipe the bowl and mouthpiece?
The BIGGER mystery to me, is this silicone 'insulator'? in the box supposed to go some place in particular, 'cause it's not clear from the directions or the videos I saw.
The OCPharm distillate works pretty nicely in the QQ, but I'm hoping to track down some Alpine to try.
Kind of split the different between the 280 and 400 TCR settings, @340.
55w, and 430F. Wasn't exactly billowing clouds, but I got vapor... just had to work for it.
Better settings to shoot for? (yeah, I know, I still need to install AF on this unit)
don't have my usual CO2 oils, just picked up a 1/2 dozen g of multi-fractionate distillate from OCPharm...
not as viscous as my PopNaturals, so dropped around 4 drops on my 13mm v3 donut 1st (have to reorder some more 10mm!), and then tonight did the same on the QQ. slightly confusing, how many draws are you supposed to be able to make on the QQ, before you let it cool down and then wipe the bowl and mouthpiece?
The BIGGER mystery to me, is this silicone 'insulator'? in the box supposed to go some place in particular, 'cause it's not clear from the directions or the videos I saw.
The OCPharm distillate works pretty nicely in the QQ, but I'm hoping to track down some Alpine to try.
OF
Well-Known Member
When it's done depends on how much you put in and how much/hard you hit it? Load what you will need for that session. I hit it until it's spent personally. I tend to load small amounts and sip at it, others work it for all it's worth. Your call.
Most of us use the ring around the MP to make removing it hot less damaging to fingers. Lately I've been ignoring it and removing the MP by grabbing it at the top (the cool end) so don't really need it as insulation so I use it as a 'bumper' with the little bubbler on top.
It keeps the 'glass on glass banging' out of the game.
OF
looney2nz
Research Geek, Mad Scientist
boy can I see the value of a bubbler... hot, hot, hot!
How'd you fashion that silicone adapter from the mouthpiece?
How'd you fashion that silicone adapter from the mouthpiece?
When it's done depends on how much you put in and how much/hard you hit it? Load what you will need for that session. I hit it until it's spent personally. I tend to load small amounts and sip at it, others work it for all it's worth. Your call.
Most of us use the ring around the MP to make removing it hot less damaging to fingers. Lately I've been ignoring it and removing the MP by grabbing it at the top (the cool end) so don't really need it as insulation so I use it as a 'bumper' with the little bubbler on top.
It keeps the 'glass on glass banging' out of the game.
OF
New V3.5 coming soon! What’s changed? No screws and now easy to remove ceramic base housing held on by two sturdy O-rings for instant access to the donut coil.
Cool! Loved using my V3 with the screws out for direct loading, so easy!
bizwaxzion
Enigmatic Cannabist
This is great @divinetribe. Will the base and mouthpiece be one unit on the 3.5 or still two parts?
Adobewan
Well-Known Member
Some of us used to run the V3 with the base screws not actually installed. That way you could quickly remove the entire ceramic cover + mouthpiece, instead of just the mouthpiece. The benefit was it allowed direct loading/painting on the donut instead of trying to land a dab tool in there and get extract stuck to the sides and such.
OF
Well-Known Member
Sorry I missed this question. The answer is simple, it's an inch or so long piece of Silicone tube. Nothing fancy. It goes over the stock MP (you can see the lip 'poking out just under the bubbler) then inside the bubbler. Standard SAE size 1/2 inch OD, 3/8 ID. Handy stuff to have around.
The right length keeps the alignment tight (too long and the bubbler 'flops around'.
Other types might work, but 1/16 wall Silicone is super flexible and soft and rated to 450F and is 'food/medical grade' as well. It stays on the MP when I put it and the MP 'big end up' on one of the pegs in the dishwasher (with the normal dishes) to get washed clean.
OF