VapCap 510 Heater Build (Based on "The Project")

natural farmer

Well-Known Member
I was thinking about a SS tube of about 16mm (outer diameter 18mm) inside... better heat? And all things "sealed" with cork.
A good insulator might be a better idea... Avoiding shorts is also a good idea. :p We need to keep temps low, this thing without airflow really heats up. I was thinking of mica tubing without a sleeve...
 
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GeeWhiz

Well-Known Member
Has anyone done some projects with butane heaters? some modifications?
 
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supershredderdan

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
How well does it work and what is the heatup time? Any interest in building a few to sell?

Works pretty well, I've found that at higher wattages like 50-60 it clicks in under 20 seconds from cold, then maybe only 10-15 seconds per cycle after.

What I like most is running it on a lower wattage like 30-40. It takes considerably longer to heat up (40-60 seconds at most) but I get bigger hits and the tip stays hot longer.

So it seems that low wattage is akin to a single flame torch and higher wattage is a quad. It makes sense

I guess if enough people wanted I could order some rda's and wrap some wire, but it's really no special mod or anything, just a coil wound around a vapcap (I wound mine around the body of my m) and connected to an rda. If I made some for people I'd probably want to order different rda's though, the cap touches the middle post in the mutation rda which doesn't short it but has left some black burn dots on the my cap. It still works great, but it's there forever now lol
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
Works pretty well, I've found that at higher wattages like 50-60 it clicks in under 20 seconds from cold, then maybe only 10-15 seconds per cycle after.

What I like most is running it on a lower wattage like 30-40. It takes considerably longer to heat up (40-60 seconds at most) but I get bigger hits and the tip stays hot longer.

Lol I'm sorry guys but this completely braindead inefficient! Just put "the Project" on top of your mod and you'll get full convection vapor under 3 seconds from cold and using less Watts.

Why use so much energy to heat the Vapcap for so long and ultimately get only conduction heating? You already have a mod, just get a suitable atty (Project or BULLI/custom for convection, Divine Tribe DC2 for conduction) Instead you heat a coil, which heats air, which in turn heats the cap, which heats the material... there's loss at every step.

The only argument I could imagine would be stealth, but I'm not even sure it's stealthier to hold a mod in one hand, a VC in the other and juggle... vs directly hitting your mod with an atty like if it was an e-cig.
 
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supershredderdan

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
Lol I'm sorry guys but this completely braindead inefficient! Just put "the Project" on top of your mod and you'll get full convection vapor under 3 seconds from cold and using less Watts.

Why use so much energy to heat the Vapcap for so long and ultimately get only conduction heating? You already have a mod, just get a suitable atty (Project or BULLI/custom for convection, Divine Tribe DC2 for conduction) Instead you heat a coil, which heats air, which in turn heats the cap, which heats the material... there's loss at every step.

The only argument I could imagine would be stealth, but I'm not even sure it's stealthier to hold a mod in one hand, a VC in the other and juggle... vs directly hitting your mod with an atty like if it was an e-cig.

I have the project as well as 2 DC2 attys and I love them both to death. the DC2 has been my daily driver since I got the settings tuned just right.

I only made that one because it was fun, took no longer than 2 minutes, and its a great option for when I want to use my vapcap, but my torch is acting up (which happens often IME)

I would never walk around with that setup for stealth hits, I usually keep it on my back porch and I am not as worried about the power efficiency because I have 18650s always on the charger.

I have found that with the lower wattage heating I can manage to get hits slightly bigger or fuller than with even my single flame on the base of the cap. It may look silly but it serves its purpose for me.
 

goodpunk6

Well-Known Member
I'm absolutely intrigued by this concept. I NEED a vapcap heater. No, I don't want to use my mod to vaporize. Its a personal preference. I love my Omnivap/Omnivong/Nonavong/M and want to keep using them. Spinning them when I'm out is not a good idea for me either. If done right, the 510 vapcap heater will make your vapcap look like a stem. That should be the goal of this project. Someone, please bring this to life.
 

7oli5

Well-Known Member
I like the concept but from the inactivity on this thread looks like the idea is abandoned... If anyone is still experimenting with this or selling please pm me.
 
7oli5,

mrbonsai420

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
I like the concept but from the inactivity on this thread looks like the idea is abandoned... If anyone is still experimenting with this or selling please pm me.
It's not 510 powered but...The @Dr.Dabber Switch looks like it can be used as an instant on induction heater for the vapcap! Like you need another reason to want one. lol
 
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Cessnapix

New Member
Have an Idea for DIY 510 VC heater. Working on proof of concept. Can someone please tell me OD of VC. Will open source when proven. KISS design.
Thanks
 
Cessnapix,

Squiby

Well-Known Member
Have an Idea for DIY 510 VC heater. Working on proof of concept. Can someone please tell me OD of VC. Will open source when proven. KISS design.
Thanks
The OD of a Vapcap tip is 10mm. Add a bit for the very thin ss cap which sits on top of it.
 

Cessnapix

New Member
The OD of a Vapcap tip is 10mm. Add a bit for the very thin ss cap which sits on top of it.
Thanks

I posted a picture on Instagram. Don't know how to navigate here yet. I used
ReadyXwick or You gould use Ekowool for wire insulation to stop shorting and hold temp once preheated. 24awg 316 ss wire. Over 1. Ohm resistance. If you want you could also add a high resistant vappin donut as dual coils to brig it down to .7 range. Higher the resistance, less battery drain. But may trigger too much heat near front of cap unless a diffuser is installed. This may also work well for a 510 dry herb atomizer heater.

The other option I will dig into when I find the ceramic vappin donuts. Depending on the od of them. Is to use some thin wall 99.9% electrcal grade thin wall copper tubing. Has a high heat conductivity. Attatch the ceramic donuts, either 1 or 2 on top of each other with a tight fit. The ceramic should heat the copper tubing? I seen some commercial made heaters done this way as a conductive/convection heater.
 
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