Divine Tribe atty's

divinetribe

We are trying our hardest to become Medical Grade
Manufacturer
quests upgrade emails going out tomorrow


I finally got the Gen 2 DC Mouthpieces made that will fit the 18mm hydratube.

I am pretty happy I can cool my dry herb vape sessions down now with this attachment. It definitely allows me to take bigger draws.

http://ineedhemp.com/product/hydratube-attachment-mouthpiece-for-the-gen-2-dc-dry-herb-atomizer/



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OF

Well-Known Member
Gentle Friends,

A bubbler suggestion for use with the QQ for your consideration? Specifically, this guy from DH Gate (originally made for going on top of 'oil pens':
https://www.dhgate.com/product/newe...DM|EDM|Shipping_en_pc|series|EN|PC|2018-03-29

This is what it looks like mated up to the QQ with a bit of tube:
uwIdPZa.jpg


I first used two o-rings (around the 'neck' of the MP, the bubbler goes over the MP end) to couple it. The tube works much better I think. I also tested a rubber band and wrapping dental floss around the MP (over the narrow part), both work fine I think. This guy will spill, so you need to keep it upright but then again you already have to keep the QQ upright? The ring from the QQ also works fine on the other side, but you need something there to keep the glass parts from clanking together.

IMO a useful (and welcome) improvement 'when called for'. You can also see the lower ring is the sightly heavier one I've been using lately, it's very snug. Otherwise it tends to separate poorly.

Anyway, a cheap upgrade, IMO worth considering.

Best regards to all,

OF
 

Megaton

Well-Known Member
@divinetribe that wpa for the Gen 2 looks great! I had been wondering about longer stemmed mouth pieces for it. The standard one is perfect for out and about, but a slightely longer one would be great at home!
 
Megaton,

derpetrie

astro travellin'
Has anybody ordered the little 5ml UV jars from the website? I'm curious about the quality and how well they seal. Is it foam or cardboard like paper under the lid?
 

js7735

New Member
Hi all... could use a little help trying to get my Gen1 Dry Herb Atty to not kick my istick Pico out of Temp Control mode all the time.

I set the M1 value to 330, The temp to 370F, and the wattage to 33. My coil is showing up as .82ohms cold (I tried both locked and unlocked ohm modes).

edit:was POS battery
 
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divinetribe

We are trying our hardest to become Medical Grade
Manufacturer
Hi all... could use a little help trying to get my Gen1 Dry Herb Atty to not kick my istick Pico out of Temp Control mode all the time.

I set the M1 value to 330, The temp to 370F, and the wattage to 33. My coil is showing up as .82ohms cold (I tried both locked and unlocked ohm modes).

edit:was POS battery
my atomizers read wrong and jump out of temp mode when i use my old imren 18650s in the pico, but when i put in a sony vtc6 they read different ohms and function better.. 18650s are not all the same
 

PPN

Volute of Vapor
Hi all... could use a little help trying to get my Gen1 Dry Herb Atty to not kick my istick Pico out of Temp Control mode all the time.

I set the M1 value to 330, The temp to 370F, and the wattage to 33. My coil is showing up as .82ohms cold (I tried both locked and unlocked ohm modes).

edit:was POS battery
Check if the atty's wires are tight enough in their respective posts it happens to be loose with time and increase resistance reading.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Check if the atty's wires are tight enough in their respective posts it happens to be loose with time and increase resistance reading.

No such screws on Gen 1 carts?

I think the source of 'jumping out' is the same however, intermittent contact as it heats which causes the mod to default to VW mode. An instantaneous 'out of range' resistance reading will do it. While attention to screws is effective on carts that have them, V2.5 and the like use 'e-cig' press contacts that IMO aren't up to the duty. OK at a dozen Watts or so, but more requires more positive contact to stay in TCR mode it seems?

Gen 2 is a big step up here, IMO. I abandoned Gen 1.

OF
 

divinetribe

We are trying our hardest to become Medical Grade
Manufacturer
Has anybody ordered the little 5ml UV jars from the website? I'm curious about the quality and how well they seal. Is it foam or cardboard like paper under the lid?
its a PE plastic seal under the lid, it seals well. however, it does make the PE bubble under the lid if your concentrate is really terpy and the jar is getting tossed around a lot .
 
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divinetribe,
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Well, you got me again, bud. LOL Just ordered the dry herb vape special in your sig. Thanks so much for your generosity. If this works half as well as the DTV3 I bought, I'll be pleased as punch.

Thanks again.
 

graydeh1

REP for TRVP ATTY, Shellshock/Tectonic and more.
Company Rep
Got my tracking also, thanks for the follow thru Matt, all di best.

Anyone use 95% distillate in there?
 
graydeh1,

OF

Well-Known Member
Gents and Ladies,

I just got my upgrade kits from my favorite Postman (right on schedule) along with two new production units.

The new version is very very nice IMO. Everything Matt discussed, basically a brand new unit! All you have to do is transfer the MP and rubber shield ring and you're good to go. Cleaning and burn offs to suit, of course. Nothing to goof up. The new bowl looks very nice (nice polish on the rim and bottom) and the 'lead dress' on the heaters is much more precise now which, along with the improved slots should fix contact problems there. The new Filiister head screws (what the Brits call 'cheese head') are a big improvement, even if the still tiny screwdriver includes does look kind of comical with a heavy shaft and a relatively tiny handle. Hopefully folks won't over torque those tiny screws like they might with a bigger handle? It now first the screw in the base which hopefully won't need further attention?

Be advised, they still need some checking/fiddling out of the box sometimes, mine did at least first time. Out of the box it heated just fine most of the way then jumped out of TCR. One of the small screws wasn't quite snug, but once down it's heated correctly several times now.

Time to load up and be sure it really does make vapor (no doubts, really at this point).

Best weekend regards to all.

OF
 

Clipserob

New Member
Hey all,
New to the thread here. I've got the dry DCv2 and concentrate DCv2 mounted on a DNA200 mod. Concentrate atty works great, but not the dry. I've tried a variety of settings using the escribe software to no avail. Every setting will not allow me to use temp control. I can keep an eye on the ohms and release the button and press again to stay between 1.15 and 1.2 ohms this seems to give me a decent vape without burning I would love to set my mod up to this for me. Any advice?
 

OF

Well-Known Member
How does one order the QQ upgrade exactly? I couldn't find it on the DT website.

It's not there. PM Matt.

I would love to set my mod up to this for me. Any advice?

This should not depend on mod or SW as long as it's capable of TCR at the levels needed.

Try M=245, 24 Watts (limit). 410F.

It should 'make temperature' in 10 seconds or less and make vapor 10 seconds or so later.

OF
 
OF,

Clipserob

New Member
There is no place to input - "M" the escribe software requires a set of resistance levels at a known temperature plotted on a graph. Most common vaping materials have this data in a csv file to upload I'm not sure what the resistance wire that is used is made of though.
Rob
It's not there. PM Matt.



This should not depend on mod or SW as long as it's capable of TCR at the levels needed.

Try M=245, 24 Watts (limit). 410F.

It should 'make temperature' in 10 seconds or less and make vapor 10 seconds or so later.

OF
 

OF

Well-Known Member
There is no place to input - "M" the escribe software requires a set of resistance levels at a known temperature plotted on a graph. Most common vaping materials have this data in a csv file to upload I'm not sure what the resistance wire that is used is made of though.
Rob

No problem. "245" means 2450 ppm. .245% increase per degree C. Pick two temperatures, say 20C and 200C, and lie to it? That is "Dry Lab" (calculate) the values. 180C rise? That makes a (.245 times 180) 44.1% increase in resistance expected. If it was 1 Ohm cold, 1.441 is expected at 200C.

That should get you going. Not sure what to say about the fancy software except that less complex software does an excellent job for us (e-cig guys are a different story of course) and provide few problems. Frankly, I can't see how it can be much improved on for us, mostly on interface features?

OF
 

Clipserob

New Member
Thanks for the help! Still not quite there but at least it's keeping it in temp mode for now. I'll try tweaking the plot points until it is working better. Do you know the TCR value for this atty? This says the controllable range is .0008 to .0100; I input .00245 and set a start and end value. This makes you start with -100°F and end with 800°F
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the help! Still not quite there but at least it's keeping it in temp mode for now. I'll try tweaking the plot points until it is working better. Do you know the TCR value for this atty? This says the controllable range is .0008 to .0100; I input .00245 and set a start and end value. This makes you start with -100°F and end with 800°F

I just told you what I think the value is.....twice. I still think it's 2450 ppm...... Most metals are around 1/4 or 1/3% per degree C.

Remember F and C degrees are different, different sizes and offsets.

Do the math. .245% is .00245, right? Percent is 'times 100'???

I still think you should trash the fancy SW (at least until you understand this good stuff), but if you insist just do the math? -100 to 800F is 900 degrees F or 500 C? 500 degrees times .245% per degree is 122% (notice how the 'degrees' part is cancelled by the 'per degree' part)? So 1 Ohm becomes 2.22?

Regards,

OF
 
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OF

Well-Known Member
A couple more thoughts on the upgraded QQ. It's now several sessions later, enough to need charging again, and I still haven't broken it. I need to check, I think the walls of the bowl are thicker now giving it different performance by being staying cooler? I'm modifying my technique to compensate, no big deal. In fact I think better?

Another point is the improved efficiency Matt suggested seems to be here. The indicated resistance is lower (.26 Ohms) and (therefore?) the unit heats slightly faster it seems. That is less of the 55 Watts delivered is wasted hating the holder. Mine now 'makes temperature' (limits power) in just under the 10 Second limit. The OG could not do that, needing two presses.

Well done Matt!! Time to spread the good word.

Best weekend regards to all.

OF

Edit: A fun 'fallout' with the upgrade is it no longer fits the foam in the OG packaging (the unit is too long assembled to fit the hole that originally didn't hold the heatsink/extension). So it comes in the same box but without foam (come in a box inside like say V2.5s). No big deal of course, sure to be eventually changed......or not.

I'm still tripping on the little screwdriver with the strange profile. It looks like Mattel made it for GI Joe's tool kit.......

OF
 
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