Divine Tribe atty's

[PPN]

Yes, it's been discussed a fair bit. Most likely a contact issue, a clue is sometimes seen before hand when the resistance is slightly higher than normal. As stuff heats up, a momentarily poor contact causes the 'reading' of resistance to go out of range.

The first herb cart had this same problem IIRC.

Check the two screws, the leads can shift. Also question the center contact with the heatsink. Some guys have backed the screw off a tiny amount (1/3 turn?) to improve this without making the contact inside a problem. I had a case of this early on, I think from removing the QQ from the HS too often. No need to ever 'break this connection' (the new design eliminates this contact entirely). I fixed it, I think, by trying to 'screw the center post in' on the HS. It's not really threaded, but turning it while pressing hard inward seems to have pushed the pin out far enough to make solid contact again. A clue here is the QQ worked fine without the HS since the center pin in the Mod is 'spring loaded' to ensure solid contact.

OF

Thanks @OF , I opened my atty and realized the ceramic cup was not attached to the base, so the contact might be very poor. I tried to fix it back like it was but ceramic cup legs was too short, so I removed the ceramic base where the ceramic cup sits (between the metal base and the cup) to be able to fix the legs in the posts and added an o-ring on the top of the cup to compensate and make a good seal. Now my dry herb cart work very well and doesn't shutoff in power mode anymore!

I'm working on settings now, TC Ni mode, 320°F seems to get the job. Before I was using 400°F and my first bowl after rebuild I tried that and combusted a bit... what is your favourite setting, please?

Thanks again!

 

[OF]

Thanks @OF , I opened my atty and realized the ceramic cup was not attached to the base, so the contact might be very poor.

I'm working on settings now, TC Ni mode, 320°F seems to get the job. Before I was using 400°F and my first bowl after rebuild I tried that and combusted a bit... what is your favourite setting, please?

Thanks again!

Great, yer welcome, glad to help when I can. This time it worked out well and easily.......

I don't have a favorite, but the one I use came from Matt (let's give blame were it's due?). Very close to what you have now. I used the factory Ni setting (which seems about 245?) and 310F (not 320). I seriously doubt I could tell the difference in an A/B test. We're basically the same?

I think a big key is power. You don't want to hammer the poor heaters, your mod and it's battery more than necessary. I find that 55 Watts (a bit less than advised) gets me 'to temperature' in about ten seconds. I also set VW low (20 Watts right now) in case it 'jumps out of TCR mode'.

Thanks for the feedback, now to start enjoying your QQ. BTW, be sure to try out TP or paper towel pieces folded up for cleaning. Cheaper and easier to come by than swabs, and if folded carefully leaves a couple of 'sharp corners' that get into the edge of the bowl (square) much better than swabs with their round ends.

OF

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

Hey tribal vape friends,

Gentle friends, if I may submit for your consideration, as OF might say

As we await our free upgraded parts for the new QQ which will hopefully solve all the sporadic contact / firing / performance issues that some of us have dealt with, if you haven't solved it already, I have come up with a reliable crutch, or band-aid solution to keep the current QQ models firing reliably:

additional little snips of conductive wire stuffed in to the wire holes and clamped down with the ceramic rods' lead wires

This is the same trick I've been using on my V3 posts for a long time to keep the donut leads super tight and torqued into place inside the posts with the screws maxed out but also not crushing the donut wire leads too much. This allows you to vigorously swab / scrape / touch the donut while loading and cleaning without worrying about the integrity of the contact being compromised, even after dozens of uses. This is a much more significant issue on the current QQ, so by adding 2 little strands of wire cut from some loose donuts, the Ω of the atty stays much more stable and low, and I've had dozens of sessions in a row, no problem with the wire lead contacts, since adding wire snips!

Even with adding little wires, after many sessions, you may need to re-tighten the screws for the leads a little bit, and the contact between the 510 pin on the QQ and the separate heat sink may become loose after repeated use, so you just need to un-screw the parts, tighten the pin and put it back, then 0.23-0.24Ω all the time now! No need to fully rebuild any more.

While you can run V3 on less than 20 Watts, QQ will need more like 60. Really presses single cell mods hard, battery selection becomes critical. Something to keep in mind.

OF, your repeated, rapid advice and help and TCR explanations are much appreciated by many, no doubt. But on the specific point of the QQ "needing" 60 watts, we clearly don't "need" that much wattage to get a nice session going.

You can read that Archvape, FMSQ, Maxvapor710 and many others are vaping just fine with the QQ with much lower watts, 30-40 watts is ok. I was using 50-60w with the ceramic rods myself as I started with the QQ, but I was having difficulty avoiding burned/overly hot hits with such high watts; using high power requires greater judgement and moderation on the fire button to avoid overheating. So I've followed the recommendations of some of these guys, and I've been set on 40w for my QQ for a while. Even 30, 33, 35w was working for me, but just taking too long. 40w gets me to vape in about ~20 second and gives me more leeway to control the heat.

That's fine if anyone want to use 50, 60, 70 watts on their QQ. (in TC mode, but not power mode) The only benefit will be a quicker warm up time if 15-20 seconds is too slow for you with lower power.

Even with a modest 30-40w on the QQ, your advice to source quality batteries to power this thing is sound. Running 10-20w lower than the "official" settings still pushes the batteries pretty good, partially since they go at "max watts" on your TC settings for many seconds at a time, for repeated bursts, which is far different from typical e-cig vaping or even V3 battery discharging patterns.

I can't help but find it ironic that I'm recommending lower power levels for the QQ than OF, when for years OF had been advocating using the most minimal usable watts figures for the V2.5 / V3 while I had always been recommending high watts for the donuts!

Something didn't seem quite right about that so after it nagging me for a while I decided to see what was up. Here's 3 runs from my Cuboid and an empty cup (I repeated the first test after the last one, that is did a fourth run, to confirm nothing shifted):

Ni @ 310F gave .464 Ohms when stable (my normal setting from Matt)
245 @ 540F also gave .464 Ohms (the m value I use with V2.5 and small V3s)
490 @ 310F gave .468 Ohms, close enough for a small shop........

Aha...you like it hot don't you?

I usually don't pay the live Ω much attention during a QQ sesh, but since you listed this, I checked that the rods on my QQ only reach about 0.37-0.38Ω during use, from a cold 0.236Ω locked in, TCR 225, 526F at the moment.

You clearly like it much hotter if your rods reach 0.46 at whatever TCR / preset TC combination of settings you dial in. That's fine, nothing wrong with that. I guess it matches your preference for higher watts too.

That kind of settings are likely to choke me out on the QQ, even with my dab rigs attached, and my settings might feel a bit wispy and unsatisfactory for you?

I'm probably one of the more sensitive, wheezy-throated guys in this group, and I need my vapor to be the coolest, but my QQ can still put out nice clouds with my modest settings. It's usually testing the limits of my respiratory comfort, though, and coughs me out a little bit near the end, or by the 3rd puff on a QQ bowl. I still find it much easier to get a big, cool , smooth cloud with the V3, despite the extra loading / cleaning hassle with the donut. Tradeoffs, these are.

@huffmybrd I will have to try setting it lower and check how it is. It never seems to read below .33 for me as well though.

Here’s how I’m using mine:

My rx300 with 4 LG HE2 has pretty damn good battery life in my opinion.

It’s the ecube by kanboro tech, this is the bubbler that came with it.

https://vapeartist.ca/collections/k...nal-mod-screw-water-bubbler-for-ecube-h-enail

Pretty nice setup tyler! I've been enjoying my QQ on my dab rigs with my simple glass elbow / silicon tube adapters and it works great, but a hydratube like that, which fits right over the metal base on the QQ with a directional cap that you can swirl around, that seems like it's taking the fun and the efficiency / potency of using the QQ with a water piece to a new level!

That's great how that piece just randomly happens to fit the QQ. It's quite tempting to me, but I'm on a "glass moratorium" right now. VAS, and it's related diseases, CAS, GAS, MAS, I'm trying to keep those in check right now. Maybe if one of my rigs gets broken or sold, I might consider a glass setup like that dedicated for the QQ.

Does the directional carb cap come with that hydratube, or did you get that separately, elsewhere? (if not included, a link? thanks)

i take two square and fold them on top of each other. then i basically roll them into a long cylinder. like a cigarette. then i bend that in half. you can use both ends if needed. it works well.

im still not terribly excited about this method either though as i dont want to be walking around saturday night with a pocket full if tp or cotton swabs. i would like to see a tool similar to the one that comes with the V3 and QQ, but instead of being a scooper the end would have some sort of clamp or something to hold some cotton. similar to the idea of using wooden skewers with tp. then you could carry a small stack of cotton squares. and they mount into the tool, you swab, and discard the square from the tool.

this seems rather mundane, but I guess I could post this as it might be helpful to you?

I'm pretty sure a bunch of other V3 people are doing something just like this, I only got the idea from an anonymously submitted V3 user manual that Matt posted many pages back.

I swab at (a real, actual) 350F. Full vaping temp is not needed to swab.

Why don't you try holding the rolled up paper with a small tweezer? wooden tweezers could be better than metal or ceramic to avoid scraping. Holding the paper roll with a tweezer really lets you smoosh it into the warmed donut to absorb that reclaim oil.

I even take it a step further and cut the oily fouled tip of the roll with a scissor and use the rest of the clean paper roll, but that's more about lazyness and the desire to stretch out the use of a single roll as much as possible, so I can cut a power towel into some squares and have enough to swab donuts for a few weeks, at least.

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

Hi All! Been lurking this forum (here and in the Dynavap thread) and caught lots of great info (and V.A.S).

I was just wondering if there was any info on how safe the ceramic heating elements are in these vaporizers? I have a DC gen2, but i was wondering hoow safe the heating element is actually in the long term, in regards to ceramic particles etc.

I decided to release the offgas test results for the V3

As you see here, Matt did release the test results for the V3, although that was a test of a brand-new V3 unit run on TC mode at a reasonable watt / temp level (far cooler than glowing red)

So with much necessary interpretation / dumbing down, it seems the alumina donuts and the V3 housing vape about as clean as you could possibly expect an electronic vape device to be! It would be interesting to see the same tests run on an older donut, however, one that had been heat-cycled and burned clean many times, tests with crusty-old reclaim in the cup and donut underside, and a test of a glowing-hot donut as well. Maybe even test a scraped or chipped-off donut. Does it emit alumina particulates? (I don't think so? )

But, these tests certainly aren't cheap, they take time to conduct and assess, and plenty of effort to interpret and explain to the layman too! So I still give Matt tons of credit for doing this on his own and then releasing it. Really, who else is voluntarily testing vape devices to this degree? I've looked at off-gasing tests for some other 510 vapes, but they aren't quite this detailed; to this level of precision

Edit: It was also mentioned that you "need" to get the ceramic rods glowing red hot to get the quartz bowl hot for vaping. If you use the higher watts range recommended, your rods may glow, but at lower watts like 40 or so, the rods will not glow, but the cup will still get hot and vape with a few extra seconds of heating.

Regarding vapor smoothness, air temps and potential off-gassing concerns, I would much rather have my rods or donuts not be glowing hot during use, especially if this is not needed. Glowing red / orange donuts or rods should only be for cleaning, not inhaling


damnit! that was too much words. had to be 2 posts. Too atone for all that verbosity, I humbly submit some more quartz concentrate prawns...

This is some more of that live resin sauce, Raw Gardens' kosher chem. It has such a lovely texture which is hard to capture on my aging cell phone camera with automatic focus

It tastes so lovely on this device, as long as I have discipline on my trigger finger. Flavor and smoothness suffers if I hold the button down for too-too long after the vapor stream starts. I love my V3s for the easier use and smoother, controlled temps, but the ease of loading and cleaning the QQ goes a long way to equalize the pro's and con's vs The DTV3....

 

[OF]

I can't help but find it ironic that I'm recommending lower power levels for the QQ than OF, when for years OF had been advocating using the most minimal usable watts figures for the V2.5 / V3 while I had always been recommending high watts for the donuts!

Aha...you like it hot don't you?

I usually don't pay the live Ω much attention during a QQ sesh, but since you listed this, I checked that the rods on my QQ only reach about 0.37-0.38Ω during use, from a cold 0.236Ω locked in, TCR 225, 526F at the moment.

You clearly like it much hotter if your rods reach 0.46 at whatever TCR / preset TC combination of settings you dial in. That's fine, nothing wrong with that. I guess it matches your preference for higher watts too.

Careful here to include all the details? That is not take something out of context.......

You're missing, I think, that I follow Matt's advice:
"Once heat is achieved with quartz cup let-off button to keep from burning or giving off foul high temp flavor. "
http://ineedhemp.com/product/quartz...past-customer-and-social-media-discount-link/

That part is very important. Very. For sure if I (or anyone) kept the button down things would get very hot, but true to form (for me) I'm looking to sip modest vapor. I stay on the cool sides of things, still. And advise the same for new guys.

As I've said a few times before, I've scaled power so in most cases I 'make temperature' in about 10 seconds, yes I see no need to take longer and burn more battery so I can keep the heat on full time. Instead I treat it like VapMan. I put 'just enough' heat in before the hit to sustain the hit and 'coast from there'. And adjust reheat times as appropriate for following hits where the vape is already heated some.

Guys should experiment to find what works best for them. For now I'm recommending Matt's formula for getting vapor from the QQ. IMO there's too much thermal lag between the sensor (heater resistance) and load (concentrate on the other side of the base plate) to make closed loop control practical, especially for the new guys. The coupling is just too loose. Instead, add a reasonable estimate of heat, CUT POWER, see what happens and adjust as needed.

You could also do this same sort of thing in VW with a stopwatch? Input about 550 Joules of energy (550 Watt-seconds, 55 Watts for ten seconds) and you've put a metered amount of energy into a system that should respond typically. Same as a 'four count' heating the VM with a torch sets up the next hit. Or 40 Watts for 15 seconds or so (maybe)? It's not linear of course, since 10 Watts for 55 seconds is not going to work the same?

Start with something that works, experiment some with variables and follow the results you like. Please don't think I advise holding the button down with the settings I suggest.....or rather pass on.

Regards to all.

OF

 

[Hippie]

Some battery mods have adjustable power stepping over time now (VPC I think?) so you can program how much power is delivered to the coil in 0.5 or 1 second blocks.
So you could program it to deliver a high wattage for the first few seconds to take the coil up to heat then drop the power down to a lower level for the rest of the draw or program it to step the power up and down as you like throughout the draw.

I'm looking forward to trying it out with the Stempod and Splinter myself.

 

[OF]

So you could program it to deliver a high wattage for the first few seconds to take the coil up to heat then drop the power down to a lower level for the rest of the draw or program it to step the power up and down as you like throughout the draw.

An excellent suggestion. However some caution is needed as there is a maximum power the heater will take, and such things typically vary over time/temperature as they are related to stresses caused by expansion with heat. Ironically, a slow heat up to full blast is often called for, just the opposite of what we'd like?

Matt says his heaters will survive 65 Watts from a cold start, 55 seems a reasonable margin on that that still gets to party time in ten seconds or a few more. Before you get too bored anyway? If you were of a mind to keep the power on full time, that would be where I'd start? 55 Watts for ten seconds. If you let it run (dry) at 310F the power drops to about 25 Watts when it goes into regulation. So 25 Watts might be a good number there? Maybe 30?

For those of us on the 'heat and coast' program IMO getting to temperature as soon as reasonably possible lowers total power, keeps the unit cooler and spares battery power. And you don't sit there longer than needed watching the numbers change........

OF

 

[OF]

So I just got back from another pleasant (and ultimately successful.....very successful...) test. The excuse was testing out a new o-ring. The cap is too loose for my liking, when trying to rig a WT connection the MP comes off the QQ. So I'm trying 'the next thicker cord' size in SAE sizes, specifically #014 in High Temperature Silicone. It's a tiny bit thicker and smaller in both ID and OD (you have to stretch it a bit to get it on), but it completely fills the groove and leaves a broad 'footprint' on the glass, rather than the very thin line with the factory rings. No lack of compression now. Now it's hard to get off hot.......

Anyway, somewhere along the line I seem to have disturbed the top and heat sink, my mod crashed out to VW for the first time in dozens of sessions, involving hundreds of heatings. No big deal, some fiddling and it's back on line. It'll be nice to get the upgraded units where this dicey connection doesn't exist.

Anyway, hick-ups aside, it's a champ for sure. I know most guys are probably loading right up and going for it, I'm more interested in not hurting myself. Coughing fits like on some of the videos from understandable desires for more, more, more. It's what they got it for after all, more power to 'em.

OTOH, I'm having lots and lots of fun with tiny loads. Something in the 20 to 35 to the gram range? .050 to .033 grams? Modest by many Members, for sure. But a nice session for me, being cautious with the heat and sipping slowly as the vapor forms and then stops. Not easy to get just the right amount of heat in for the upcoming hit so it doesn't stall out too soon or (worse) run over temperature and cook the oil. And, of course, there's heat in there after the first hit, so the heaters heat up faster and less power needs to be transferred in. Easy enough to control, but you need to stay sharp.....stay on the button too long and there's no going back. Fun stuff, really, when it goes right.

Anyway, right now I'm chewing through a gram of lovely "Fire OG Sugar" I got a while back and wasn't impressed with at the time? Crumbly and not at all sticky, hard to load really, but so rewarding. I find a quick heat to an indicated 250F or so will melt it in place without making vapor, so it's 'spill safe' for transit. After use it's so easy to wipe clean with a sheet of TP or a piece of paper towel (be careful of fibers of other stuff, wood only.....). What a threat to get full taste each session from the clean bowl.

After a dozen or so uses the bottom gets fouled with what you couldn't wipe out. No big deal. Mostly carbon. 3 drops (seriously, not 2 or 4....) of water heated carefully and boiled for half a minute or so softens the carbon up enough that a toothpick easily breaks most of it free with no effort at all. Cold start, of course, drops of water on hot glass can lead to bad karma. A couple of wipes with paper towel gives you a dry, mostly debris free bowl for the next session. No disassembly, maybe 2 minutes tops? I don't fuss over every bit, like military showers, 'what you miss today you can get tomorrow'. More deposits on it and it seems to come off next time around with the new stuff. Magic Eraser no longer used.

Neat contraption, well worth getting to know. Powerful tool for good.....

Weekend regards to all.

OF

 

[Bad Ocelot]

It’s the ecube by kanboro tech, this is the bubbler that came with it.

https://vapeartist.ca/collections/k...nal-mod-screw-water-bubbler-for-ecube-h-enail

Do their other H-Enail bubblers have the same interior diameter? Got a few nice looking things there

 

[2clicker]

Hey tribal vape friends,

Gentle friends, if I may submit for your consideration, as OF might say

As we await our free upgraded parts for the new QQ which will hopefully solve all the sporadic contact / firing / performance issues that some of us have dealt with, if you haven't solved it already, I have come up with a reliable crutch, or band-aid solution to keep the current QQ models firing reliably:

additional little snips of conductive wire stuffed in to the wire holes and clamped down with the ceramic rods' lead wires

This is the same trick I've been using on my V3 posts for a long time to keep the donut leads super tight and torqued into place inside the posts with the screws maxed out but also not crushing the donut wire leads too much. This allows you to vigorously swab / scrape / touch the donut while loading and cleaning without worrying about the integrity of the contact being compromised, even after dozens of uses. This is a much more significant issue on the current QQ, so by adding 2 little strands of wire cut from some loose donuts, the Ω of the atty stays much more stable and low, and I've had dozens of sessions in a row, no problem with the wire lead contacts, since adding wire snips!

Even with adding little wires, after many sessions, you may need to re-tighten the screws for the leads a little bit, and the contact between the 510 pin on the QQ and the separate heat sink may become loose after repeated use, so you just need to un-screw the parts, tighten the pin and put it back, then 0.23-0.24Ω all the time now! No need to fully rebuild any more.



OF, your repeated, rapid advice and help and TCR explanations are much appreciated by many, no doubt. But on the specific point of the QQ "needing" 60 watts, we clearly don't "need" that much wattage to get a nice session going.

You can read that Archvape, FMSQ, Maxvapor710 and many others are vaping just fine with the QQ with much lower watts, 30-40 watts is ok. I was using 50-60w with the ceramic rods myself as I started with the QQ, but I was having difficulty avoiding burned/overly hot hits with such high watts; using high power requires greater judgement and moderation on the fire button to avoid overheating. So I've followed the recommendations of some of these guys, and I've been set on 40w for my QQ for a while. Even 30, 33, 35w was working for me, but just taking too long. 40w gets me to vape in about ~20 second and gives me more leeway to control the heat.

That's fine if anyone want to use 50, 60, 70 watts on their QQ. (in TC mode, but not power mode) The only benefit will be a quicker warm up time if 15-20 seconds is too slow for you with lower power.

Even with a modest 30-40w on the QQ, your advice to source quality batteries to power this thing is sound. Running 10-20w lower than the "official" settings still pushes the batteries pretty good, partially since they go at "max watts" on your TC settings for many seconds at a time, for repeated bursts, which is far different from typical e-cig vaping or even V3 battery discharging patterns.

I can't help but find it ironic that I'm recommending lower power levels for the QQ than OF, when for years OF had been advocating using the most minimal usable watts figures for the V2.5 / V3 while I had always been recommending high watts for the donuts!



Aha...you like it hot don't you?

I usually don't pay the live Ω much attention during a QQ sesh, but since you listed this, I checked that the rods on my QQ only reach about 0.37-0.38Ω during use, from a cold 0.236Ω locked in, TCR 225, 526F at the moment.

You clearly like it much hotter if your rods reach 0.46 at whatever TCR / preset TC combination of settings you dial in. That's fine, nothing wrong with that. I guess it matches your preference for higher watts too.

That kind of settings are likely to choke me out on the QQ, even with my dab rigs attached, and my settings might feel a bit wispy and unsatisfactory for you?

I'm probably one of the more sensitive, wheezy-throated guys in this group, and I need my vapor to be the coolest, but my QQ can still put out nice clouds with my modest settings. It's usually testing the limits of my respiratory comfort, though, and coughs me out a little bit near the end, or by the 3rd puff on a QQ bowl. I still find it much easier to get a big, cool , smooth cloud with the V3, despite the extra loading / cleaning hassle with the donut. Tradeoffs, these are.






Pretty nice setup tyler! I've been enjoying my QQ on my dab rigs with my simple glass elbow / silicon tube adapters and it works great, but a hydratube like that, which fits right over the metal base on the QQ with a directional cap that you can swirl around, that seems like it's taking the fun and the efficiency / potency of using the QQ with a water piece to a new level!

That's great how that piece just randomly happens to fit the QQ. It's quite tempting to me, but I'm on a "glass moratorium" right now. VAS, and it's related diseases, CAS, GAS, MAS, I'm trying to keep those in check right now. Maybe if one of my rigs gets broken or sold, I might consider a glass setup like that dedicated for the QQ.

Does the directional carb cap come with that hydratube, or did you get that separately, elsewhere? (if not included, a link? thanks)



this seems rather mundane, but I guess I could post this as it might be helpful to you?

I'm pretty sure a bunch of other V3 people are doing something just like this, I only got the idea from an anonymously submitted V3 user manual that Matt posted many pages back.

I swab at (a real, actual) 350F. Full vaping temp is not needed to swab.

Why don't you try holding the rolled up paper with a small tweezer? wooden tweezers could be better than metal or ceramic to avoid scraping. Holding the paper roll with a tweezer really lets you smoosh it into the warmed donut to absorb that reclaim oil.

I even take it a step further and cut the oily fouled tip of the roll with a scissor and use the rest of the clean paper roll, but that's more about lazyness and the desire to stretch out the use of a single roll as much as possible, so I can cut a power towel into some squares and have enough to swab donuts for a few weeks, at least.

mundane? maybe so, but its only when i dont have other means. useful when out and about and dont have swabs. im still using reg cotton swabs. the tweezer thing is ok i guess, but im not worried about what im using to swab with at home. more for when youre not at home. and i dont think carrying a pair of tweezers and material around in my pocket is any more efficient than just carrying cotton swabs.

also ive been getting good at swabbing multiple times with the same swab. im going through far less than before. also they are cheap af so ill probably just continue to use them.

 

[OF]

also ive been getting good at swabbing multiple times with the same swab. im going through far less than before. also they are cheap af so ill probably just continue to use them.

Interesting idea! No reason why they can't keep cleaning up until they get really fouled (I guess I was to anxious to discard them.....). I also notice that depending on strain and how you vape it there's often very little left to clean out. Smaller loads seem more efficient in this area?

Thanks for the suggestion. Since I use it almost exclusively at home using a substitute is fine usually, and while I tried both tweezers and hemostats, folding it will enough 'handle' works fine for me since I'm blotting up, not scrubbing?

However you get it done, it's all good?

OF

 

[tylerj55]

Do their other H-Enail bubblers have the same interior diameter? Got a few nice looking things there

Sorry for the late response... I’m not sure if they do or not, but if they are for the same device I would assume so. It’s the e-cube you want.

 

[Bad Ocelot]

Thanks! I actually emailed them & they said the same. Also apparently come with a couple different size o-rings.

Got my eye on that recycler

 

[elmoe420]

Hey friends, been away for a while but haven't lost the bug. Here is my most recent pairing. Almost a match made in heaven?

 

[just_the_flu]

...beautiful mod!!!


...whats with the ring on top the 510? is it a spacer or is the qq seated into it?

 

[invertedisdead]

Hey friends, been away for a while but haven't lost the bug. Here is my most recent pairing. Almost a match made in heaven?

Looks killer might have to jump on this QQ train soon....

 

[elmoe420]

...beautiful mod!!!


...whats with the ring on top the 510? is it a spacer or is the qq seated into it?

So part of what makes this mod such a great pairing with the Quartz Quest is exactly that unique part of it's design.

The 510 plate is actually recessed below the lip of the top of the mod. The mod then includes a 'beauty ring' which screws into the top. This provides an excellent heat shield for the base of the atomizer and also serves to hide the less than pretty base behind some beautiful stabilized wood and brass.

Heat is one of the biggest issues with the Quartz Quest design. I'm sure we've all probably already learned this the hard way. Now you can pass the QQ around and never have to worry about you or a friend accidentally burning themselves.

I'll also give a shoutout to Evolv on this new DNA75c chip. I have an older DNA75 device and was never satisfied with it. Escribe was great but the on-chip LED based UI was awful compared to other firmwares. The three button design on the DNA75c with this gorgeous full-color LED is just amazing.

 

[looney2nz]

So part of what makes this mod such a great pairing with the Quartz Quest is exactly that unique part of it's design.

The 510 plate is actually recessed below the lip of the top of the mod. The mod then includes a 'beauty ring' which screws into the top. This provides an excellent heat shield for the base of the atomizer and also serves to hide the less than pretty base behind some beautiful stabilized wood and brass.

Heat is one of the biggest issues with the Quartz Quest design. I'm sure we've all probably already learned this the hard way. Now you can pass the QQ around and never have to worry about you or a friend accidentally burning themselves.

I'll also give a shoutout to Evolv on this new DNA75c chip. I have an older DNA75 device and was never satisfied with it. Escribe was great but the on-chip LED based UI was awful compared to other firmwares. The three button design on the DNA75c with this gorgeous full-color LED is just amazing.

checked out the evolv site, interesting!

who makes the 'thor' body for this?

how fast is the onboard charging? can you you pull the battery and swap them from an external charger?

 

[invertedisdead]

Hey friends, been away for a while but haven't lost the bug. Here is my most recent pairing. Almost a match made in heaven?

Man I can't stop thinking about this setup, it looks so nice. Noticed they had a killer blue/green one too HEAVY case of the VAS coming on.... are you running the 18650 or the 26650? How would you compare this pocket rocket to a real e-nail?

 

[just_the_flu]

Man I can't stop thinking about this setup, it looks so nice. Noticed they had a killer blue/green one too HEAVY case of the VAS coming on.... are you running the 18650 or the 26650? How would you compare this pocket rocket to a real e-nail?

...lmao, you mean 'M'AS ... that shits serious....

...i find the qq the only thing worth hitting on the go... i would put it in the category of 'almost as good as a banger'

 

[analytika]

Hey friends, been away for a while but haven't lost the bug. Here is my most recent pairing. Almost a match made in heaven?

Am I reading the specs right that it can take only a single 18650 not x2? I'm not going to change to a FrankenBattery system and this seems ridiculously large for a single 18650 mod.

 

[mephisto]

Just got the blue version of the Thor, it will take a 18650 or a 26650. It's a 75watt mod that is very manageable in the hand. It is no larger than my 200w 2x18650 Tesla Wye. Thanks for sharing @elmoe420
I can't wait for the newly designed QQ!

 

[invertedisdead]

Just got the blue version of the Thor, it will take a 18650 or a 26650. It's a 75watt mod that is very manageable in the hand. It is no larger than my 200w 2x18650 Tesla Wye. Thanks for sharing @elmoe420
I can't wait for the newly designed QQ!

Does it look like the photo I posted above? I wasn't sure if the one I posted was considered the "green" one or the "blue" one. Are you planning on running a 26650? never used that cell, kinda curious about it.

 

[huffmybrd]

Thanks so much for the cleaning instructions @OF , I've had a burnt looking spot from some lower quality crumble a few weeks back and couldn't get it clean for the life of me. And I didn't want to risk taking it all the way apart and breaking a heater leg since I don't have any replacements.

A few drops of water and like 10 seconds @45w, and some light scratching with a toothpick and all the carbon came right off!!

Plus after snagging some screws off an old rda to replace the QQ ones I'm getting some amazing hits. Ohms locked @ 0.29 and hasn't kicked me into Wattage mode once in the past 100+ loads.

Using TCR: 225, 40w, 520°
(Melts just at the first 15 second timeout and then vapor in the next 5ish seconds)

 

[mephisto]

@invertedisdead it looks very similar, different grain pattern. Gonna rip a 26650 in it once the new QQ gets here. I don't know squat about this cell performance wise......will share any findings...