Arizer Solo

OF

Well-Known Member
I spilt the water, turned it off and opened it up to dry it.

I think the problem was from when I pulled the bowl out, and the wires must have pulled out from the ring? (my last picture from above). Do you mean the cement must be absent from this part?

It doesn't heat up at all, so my thinking is also similar with how it's like it's picking up a "fault" and turning itself off.

I agree, pulling the bowl apart is probably what caused this problem. Did you try it first? I suspect it was fine at that point (most if not all guys who flooded their Solos didn't kill them?).

If it's a bead thermistor (which I suspect?) or a TC it would need to have 'tight coupling' (thermally) to respond in a timely manner. Simply sitting in a slot in the ceramic is not enough I suspect, was there any cement or other material in there to aid in heat transfer? It might be a hard deposit, something very 'soft and crumbly' or even a paste. I see nothing like that in the photo, and believe that's a problem and may be the root of what's going on?

It heats for a few seconds but gets no realistic feedback on heating so it shuts down rather than catch fire? Same as your cruse control in your car faults out without appropriate speed sensor (usually on the driveline, sensing tire speed) signal. A safety feature.

We see similar things in TCR mods we're using with the Divine Tribe attys, most recently the Quartz Quest, a pretty astounding concentrate rig, I'm told approaching 'nail dab' level. I'll have to take that on faith since I don't do dabs? There the changing resistance of the heater is used to sense temperature. The slightest 'hic up' in solid connections as it heats and the mod faults out instantly and jumps to fixed power mode.....for the same basic reason (loss of feedback).

A big clue is, I think, it tries to go but faults out after an attempt? It could be a failed heater, but I'd expect it to fault immediately. Hard to second guess from here. It would be a simple matter to run some tests (measure resistances, power the heater from a bench supply stand alone, and so on). Unfortunately I suspect you're not set up for this? Maybe I'm wrong and we're not blocked here......do you have a DMM you know how to use?

Again, did you try it first? What happened then? If not, I suspect you've introduced a real problem, probably fatal. Sad to say.

I'm sorry I don't recall helping in the past, I do so for a lot of folks. I hope I gave you good advice then, as I hope I am now. It's honest at least.

OF
 

pulpF

Well-Known Member
I agree, pulling the bowl apart is probably what caused this problem. Did you try it first? I suspect it was fine at that point (most if not all guys who flooded their Solos didn't kill them?).

If it's a bead thermistor (which I suspect?) or a TC it would need to have 'tight coupling' (thermally) to respond in a timely manner. Simply sitting in a slot in the ceramic is not enough I suspect, was there any cement or other material in there to aid in heat transfer? It might be a hard deposit, something very 'soft and crumbly' or even a paste. I see nothing like that in the photo, and believe that's a problem and may be the root of what's going on?

It heats for a few seconds but gets no realistic feedback on heating so it shuts down rather than catch fire? Same as your cruse control in your car faults out without appropriate speed sensor (usually on the driveline, sensing tire speed) signal. A safety feature.

We see similar things in TCR mods we're using with the Divine Tribe attys, most recently the Quartz Quest, a pretty astounding concentrate rig, I'm told approaching 'nail dab' level. I'll have to take that on faith since I don't do dabs? There the changing resistance of the heater is used to sense temperature. The slightest 'hic up' in solid connections as it heats and the mod faults out instantly and jumps to fixed power mode.....for the same basic reason (loss of feedback).

A big clue is, I think, it tries to go but faults out after an attempt? It could be a failed heater, but I'd expect it to fault immediately. Hard to second guess from here. It would be a simple matter to run some tests (measure resistances, power the heater from a bench supply stand alone, and so on). Unfortunately I suspect you're not set up for this? Maybe I'm wrong and we're not blocked here......do you have a DMM you know how to use?

Again, did you try it first? What happened then? If not, I suspect you've introduced a real problem, probably fatal. Sad to say.

I'm sorry I don't recall helping in the past, I do so for a lot of folks. I hope I gave you good advice then, as I hope I am now. It's honest at least.

OF

Okay, so my guess at it being the heat sensor, you seem to agree with. There were flakes of some kind of material, which could have been it? It wasn't really crumbly, more plastic looking and shiny.

I was thinking my next real step in troubleshooting should be trying to couple the thermistor wires to the 'plate' again? I'm not sure what materials I'd need for this, or do you even this it's hopeful that it'd work?

It doesn't heat up at all, and then switches off, yes.

I'm set up for testing like you say, and I don't have a DMM to use. I am always up for trying to fix things myself though (at least try to see if I can bond the thermistor?)

I did try the vaporizer before I took it apart, but only briefly. I so I can't be sure if it heated up or not at that point unfortunately!

Cheers again.

P.S - I have just ordered a Solo 2, thought I better just do it before I spend a week thinking about it, and then doing it anyway. But I would still love to try and revive my OG!
 

OF

Well-Known Member
I did try the vaporizer before I took it apart, but only briefly. I so I can't be sure if it heated up or not at that point unfortunately!

Significantly it didn't crash out after a few seconds like now? That's a clue........

What's the old troubleshooting joke? "What was the last thing you did before the lights went out?". Works for fuses and circuit breakers, applies here. It started crashing after disassembly?

I think the water isn't a factor here, the problem keeping us from moving forward came after it. Best try to repeat those steps 'backwards', but I think you'll come down to needing what used to be coupling the sensor to the element.....if the element is still active (easy to kill it disassembling as well), a meter would determine that quickly (you'd read a few Ohms at the PCB).

OF
 

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
Significantly it didn't crash out after a few seconds like now? That's a clue........

What's the old troubleshooting joke? "What was the last thing you did before the lights went out?". Works for fuses and circuit breakers, applies here. It started crashing after disassembly?

I think the water isn't a factor here, the problem keeping us from moving forward came after it. Best try to repeat those steps 'backwards', but I think you'll come down to needing what used to be coupling the sensor to the element.....if the element is still active (easy to kill it disassembling as well), a meter would determine that quickly (you'd read a few Ohms at the PCB).

OF
uz4uDnO.jpg

This OLD SOLO function's so well?
SUNDAY + SOLO + CANNABIS + DRY = CIVILIZED (4 for session then 5 2 finish)
READING today with the SOLO! sometime's that is exactly what one need's?
 

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
@jackherer and any other DIY folks.

My son has a handyman business with his best friend. One lesson I picked up is this....

Whenever you start taking an item (vape, stove, other appliances) apart take lots of pictures (phone camera) so you can put it back together again properly.
We love our kid's.

My youngest 21 is smart like that.

SOLO is charging and my BENT STEM is BATHING
GUAVA CANNABIS is not bad & is safer than MILK?
 
ataxian,

pulpF

Well-Known Member
Significantly it
didn't crash out after a few seconds like now? That's a clue........

What's the old troubleshooting joke? "What was the last thing you did before the lights went out?". Works for fuses and circuit breakers, applies here. It started crashing after disassembly?

I think the water isn't a factor here, the problem keeping us from moving forward came after it. Best try to repeat those steps 'backwards', but I think you'll come down to needing what used to be coupling the sensor to the element.....if the element is still active (easy to kill it disassembling as well), a meter would determine that quickly (you'd read a few Ohms at the PCB).

OF

I turned it off as soon as I flooded it. I wiped it out, turned it on for a couple of seconds, turned it off, and took it apart to dry. I didn't have it on for long enough to determine whether it was heating/about to turn itself off.

I'm quite certain that I have broken it by taking it apart.

I'd really like to know if you know, or could guess, what kind of material may have been used for coupling? I suppose if it's cheap, then it's probably more economical to have a go at that, rather than buying a DMM.

I took it apart, and then it
@jackherer and any other DIY folks.

My son has a handyman business with his best friend. One lesson I picked up is this....

Whenever you start taking an item (vape, stove, other appliances) apart take lots of pictures (phone camera) so you can put it back together again properly.

Thank you mate. I do usually do this, but I don't think a photo could have helped me out here. I eased out the bowl, and found a disconnected wire.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
I'd really like to know if you know, or could guess, what kind of material may have been used for coupling? I suppose if it's cheap, then it's probably more economical to have a go at that, rather than buying a DMM.

I've already said I don't know what might have been there, I was honest with that. Still don't. It's needs to conduct heat well, but not electricity. Heatsink compound as used in computers and other electronics would be my choice. Caution is advised, some of them aren't all that good to be around. I'd probably go with the glue types you mix that harden. Also of concern is the temperature, this has to work at 200C, many HS compounds aren't up to that. I once needed one for a critical application similar to this and ended up going with Beryllium Oxide powder in a high temperature oil carrier. Not useful here as it's toxic as I recall.

The stuff sold to glue heatsinks on computer chips would be my best guess. To be honest, I'd replace it.....

BTW, just buying a DMM wouldn't do much good I think. You really know how to use it. It's a bit like the old saw 'buying a guitar doesn't make you a musician'. If you already know how to use one, that's one thing, but it's a serious task getting up to speed there on it's own.

OF
 

pulpF

Well-Known Member
I've already said I don't know what might have been there, I was honest with that. Still don't. It's needs to conduct heat well, but not electricity. Heatsink compound as used in computers and other electronics would be my choice. Caution is advised, some of them aren't all that good to be around. I'd probably go with the glue types you mix that harden. Also of concern is the temperature, this has to work at 200C, many HS compounds aren't up to that. I once needed one for a critical application similar to this and ended up going with Beryllium Oxide powder in a high temperature oil carrier. Not useful here as it's toxic as I recall.

The stuff sold to glue heatsinks on computer chips would be my best guess. To be honest, I'd replace it.....

BTW, just buying a DMM wouldn't do much good I think. You really know how to use it. It's a bit like the old saw 'buying a guitar doesn't make you a musician'. If you already know how to use one, that's one thing, but it's a serious task getting up to speed there on it's own.

OF

Cheers for the recommendations, I suppose that's what I was really asking for.

I have already ordered a Solo II, so just would be nice to poke at this and see if I could get it working again. I think I even have some good thermal HS paste around. I'll do research on temperature capabilities.

Thanks again, I'll be sure to post back with any updates.
 
pulpF,
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ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
Cheers for the recommendations, I suppose that's what I was really asking for.

I have already ordered a Solo II, so just would be nice to poke at this and see if I could get it working again. I think I even have some good thermal HS paste around. I'll do research on temperature capabilities.

Thanks again, I'll be sure to post back with any updates.
Your use of the word: "MATE" mean's you might be from Down UNDER?

JACK HERER x DUTCH TREAT = DUTCH CRUNCH (MIKEY LIKES)

The COLAS R kine long?

I have the OLD SOLO that will not die?

@OF know's more about them than ARISER?

CANNABIS = HOLY GRAIL

VAPORIZER = APPLIANCE

KEEP your thing's in line?
 

pulpF

Well-Known Member
Your use of the word: "MATE" mean's you might be from Down UNDER?

JACK HERER x DUTCH TREAT = DUTCH CRUNCH (MIKEY LIKES)

The COLAS R kine long?

I have the OLD SOLO that will not die?

@OF know's more about them than ARISER?

CANNABIS = HOLY GRAIL

VAPORIZER = APPLIANCE

KEEP your thing's in line?

I'm from the UK ;)

If I were from a legal state in NA, I'd consider taking my Solo to somewhere who may fix it!
 

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
I'm from the UK ;)

If I were from a legal state in NA, I'd consider taking my Solo to somewhere who may fix it!
There are school's in OXFORD & CAMBRIDGE.

ENGLAND has produce some fine people.

CANADA make's the SOLO.

CALIFORNIA is good 4 growing? POV

HAWAII & TAHITI grow CANNABIS as well!
 
ataxian,
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Reactions: pulpF

OF

Well-Known Member
My friend says looks like a thermocouple with a ceramic ring, and suggests furnace cement may do the trick.

Worth a try, I guess, but furnace cements are typically insulators of heat? Silica and binder IIRC. Here a good conductor of heat is probably a better call. FWIW I think it's a bead thermistor not T/C. It's much easier to 'read' a thermistor than a T/C, and here we don't need much precision/resolution. Not that that part matters here I think.

Since a T/C really 'reads' the leads not the junction, heat conduction might not matter as much if that's the technique as opposed to thermistors???

OF
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Curious if anyone knows what diffs there might be between a 2017 model and my old 2012 SOLO?

The battery in the new one is in better shape? Otherwise no practical differences, minor internal changes.

Where the old ones could use the stand alone PA to bypass the battery, now we have 'charge while using' like a cell phone. You decide which is better for you, or if you even care. IMO the new version is a step backward but the vapor is still the same as ever.

You'll like it, not to worry.

OF
 

KidFated.

Unknown Member
@OF I need to convince myself that I need the northern lights edition solo, my air is on the way out I'm prettt sure, i can't complain, it's been through some crazy dirtbike/wheeler adventures and lots of fishing, not to mention the casual beating.

Arizer is a tested a respected brand, i use the eq daily, never had a problem with arizer.

That white just looks gorgeous..
 

530rasta

Well-Known Member
I almost got the nothern lights but then realized how fast resin would build up on it, not to mention scuffs ect. At least for me im pretty rough with the solo, im not afraid to toss it in a bag and go.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
@OF I need to convince myself that I need the northern lights edition solo, my air is on the way out I'm prettt sure, i can't complain, it's been through some crazy dirtbike/wheeler adventures and lots of fishing, not to mention the casual beating.

Freewheelin' Franklin said it best, "Dope will get you through times of no money better than money will get you through times of no dope". Same for vapes.

You're sure to be a better person enjoying that vape than most anything else the mere money would have bought (like food, rent and stuff).

I say go for it, otherwise get used to looking over your shoulder and wondering....... A Craftsman should have tools to be proud of you know.

OF
 

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
@OF I need to convince myself that I need the northern lights edition solo, my air is on the way out I'm prettt sure, i can't complain, it's been through some crazy dirtbike/wheeler adventures and lots of fishing, not to mention the casual beating.

Arizer is a tested a respected brand, i use the eq daily, never had a problem with arizer.

That white just looks gorgeous..
I might get the WHITE ONE as well!
UHct1R0.jpg

I was trying to fill my mind while I read with a SOLO?
4 reading this has been a great tool!

When I turn it on it only goes to the 1st light? Fully charged? (2nd battery pack since 2012)
WTF I only had this thing since I stopped working? (my favorite vaporizer)
@OF should I have a funeral for it?
@Quetzalcoatl this has been a great tool!
@Stu thank you for the PHVES GonG that kept me in H2O WORLD!
Sorry for many who I lead to the far MULTIVERSE!
 
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