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LabPong

Well-Known Member
One think i have noticed, wondering if others have too.

The new Ti tip (gen 5 i think) looks like a mix between the SS tip and the gen 4 (7 fin) tip.
It has the same 5 large fins the SS tip has, but it has the grooves on the rim for better airflow.
To me this is actually a worst tip than the previous gen, and the lower number of fins probably just a cost cutting measure.
It takes much longer to reach cool down click, probably 30% longer, meaning you get stuck into that "It's too cold to produce any vapor, but it hasn't clicked yet" period for much longer.
I have actually combusted in that tip a few times, because it takes so long to cool, i assume it has clicked and it hasn't.

I never have that problem with my 7 fin tip, it seems that it has a much more even heat/cool curve.
Anyone else prefer the older tip?

Carlos....great post my friend.

I got my first vapcap (Ti 5 fin XLS Vong) in July this summer. I purchased the SB-M and found it to be very different and exactly as you described. So I new it was not for me because of the hard draw resistance. I also learned I did not like the long heat up and cool off times. My Ti was very very free in draw resistance.

Just recently I ordered a new Ti tip and cap to use with my custom all thick glass body for water use. I was amazed that this new Ti tip was so much different than my used one. It is like this new Ti tip acts like it is half way between the M and my used Ti tip. The heat up times are much longer and cool offs too....compared to my used Ti tip.

I called dynavap and George answered and we went over what I was experiencing. So it ended up that he was so very supportive and sent me another Ti tip to test.

After testing a few times with mixing tips and caps back and forth...I came up with the possible difference to be in metal composition of the titanium content. But there is also an issue with this new Ti tip of having more draw resistance and I tried to file small slots in the first fin. You will notice there are very small spiral grooves in that top fin.....so I opened up 2 areas just a small amount. This did not really help as the draw resistance comes more from the O.D. of the tip above the fins. Place the cap over just the bowl area and not over the first fin. Check the draw resistance now....

What have you others found that have early 5 fins compared to what is produced now? Appreciate any input as I am looking for a Ti tip without this bigger draw resistance.
 

stark1

Lonesome Planet
the seven fin (Gen 4) tip is the tits :lmao::nod:



KrN8aEZ.jpg
 
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stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Having owned an M for a year, a Ti woody for 6 months, and now an Omnivap for a week, i cannot help but think that the M is a flawed product because of the poor airflow.
Yes the M technically "works" but after having used a Ti tip for a while, going back to the SS tip is always a disappointment to me. I actually wonder if they gave it bad airflow on purpose to make the jump from M to Uni more obvious/appealing.
I have now bought a Ti tip for my M, but that puts it in the same price range as the Univap, and it shouldn't have to be upgraded to be fully functional.

IMO the best buy in the range is the Uni. It works right out of the tube without needing any upgrade, and although the Omni adjustment is nice, i really don't find it necessary in any way.
I will say that it is easier to use in low visibility since you don't have to find the hole every time you take a hit. On the other hand, it gets dirty faster than the Uni and is somewhat more of a pain to clean.
I don't think the price jump from Uni to Omni is worth it. Whereas going from the M to anything with a Ti tip is definitely worth your money.


One thing i have noticed, wondering if others have too.

The new Ti tip (gen 5 i think) looks like a mix between the SS tip and the gen 4 (7 fin) tip.
It has the same 5 large fins the SS tip has, but it has the grooves on the rim for better airflow.
To me this is actually a worst tip than the previous gen, and the lower number of fins probably just a cost cutting measure.
It takes much longer to reach cool down click, probably 30% longer, meaning you get stuck into that "It's too cold to produce any vapor, but it hasn't clicked yet" period for much longer.
I have actually combusted in that tip a few times, because it takes so long to cool, i assume it has clicked and it hasn't.

I never have that problem with my 7 fin tip, it seems that it has a much more even heat/cool curve.
Anyone else prefer the older tip?

Actually,there's nothing wrong with the SS tip .
Neither the M is a flawed product.

Fellow member @Dynalowrider has already answered why .
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/dynavap-vapcap.18853/page-856#post-1181134

The SS tip while having almost same thermal conductance and heat capacitance with
the Titanium tip ,has almost double the mass from the latter.
If the air restriction of the ss tip was the same with the Ti tip
( meaning that they would have had exactly the same triple start ACME/rounded threading ),
then the SS tip would have :
1 ) Combust the load plenty or most of times.
SS tip absorbs more heat to reach the "click point " .
With more oxygen supply ,the possibilities of combustion are increased.

2 ) In order to compensate with the decreased air restriction/more oxygen supply
the SS tip would need another type of Cap ,with different bimetallic discs ( of lower temperature ) .
Accompanied with every effect that this lower "click" temperature would pose at the VC operation .

The M is what is supposed to be .
A quite cheap alternative of the more expensive Titanium/Wood combo models .
The operation principles are the same.
The final results and outcomes are not .
The price difference between the M and the rest of the models ,
is not just because of the materials ,but for quite few other things.

Myself I do not like the use of the carbhole.
that's why never got interested for the OMNI models.
It's my right,alright !

BUT ,by no means is my right to start even thinking that
" The OMNI is a flawed product " ,
or
"I actually wonder if they gave it a carb hole on purpose to make .. ( :hmm: ) whatever reason ... "
It's not wise ,neither polite,I think .
You could have just asked why is that happening .

Personally ,I do not like the M at all .
Neither the OMNI .
Still both these types of devices work perfectly and operate as they were made to do so.
With all their similarities and differencies .
My personal taste & my various thoughts are not the factors
determining if the device is flawed or not.
M it's a device with way different allowances and restrictions ,
than the rest of the VapCap series.
But you get it at half price.

As for the 4th and the 5th gen Titanium tips ,
numbers ( of thermodynamic nature ) say otherwise of what you claim to have experienced.
Exactly the opposite is happening.

Have you ever cleaned the inside of the caps ,where the clickers are seated ?
Still ,did you operated those devices with their own different caps or with one and only cap ?
I'm under the impression that the caps also are a VC part that was "revisited" quite a few times ,until today.They have"generations" too,you know.

Myself I like more the aesthetics of the 7 fin tip ( 4th gen ) ,
but I tend also to accidently combust more with it.
Which I can easily explain :
1 ) I have further filled down the three notches of the tip lip .
2 ) This tip has 20% more mass than the current Ti tip.
3 ) Current herb is way "trippy" ,I reheat without having heard the cool down click
-always thought i did,though.

Cheers.
:peace:
 
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WarpaintFree

Well-Known Member
I got home from a trip earlier this week, and my order was in the mailbox: a new cocobolo nonavong body for my Omni, and a stem length one for my mother's M.

This new nonavong geometry makes a perfect seal in the joint of my bong, where the last gen style let in a lot of air as the long flats were below where the taper mated with the joint.

Classic Dynavap - a small evolutionary design change made a big difference. With the screen in the 50% position, I now consistently get full extraction in 1 heat cycle, pulling click-to-click through the bong.

I'm going to test the stem on my own M before bundling it with some glass as a Christmas gift for dear ol' mom. I've never tried my M through water... will report back.
 

Winegums

I make things from wood
Accessory Maker
the seven fin (Gen 4) tip is the tits :lmao::nod:
Physics tells me I should get a Gen 5 tip to try out, but visually I love the spacing of the 7 fin generations. The Gen 5 doesn't capture the same aesthetic of an air cooling fin array as well as the 7 fins. Something about the depth of the fins and the width of the grooves? Maybe a better way to explain it is the M and Gen 5 Ti feel like they're from the Jetsons and the 7 fin Ti tips make me think of old 911s and motorcycles.

@stardustsailor Even if it's easier to combust, I've grown so used to the Gen 4s that my Gen 3 and Ms throw me off when I use them occasionally. I'd have to get 2 Gen 5 tips to replace the Gen 4s... (I told you they multiply fast!)
 

Hippie

Well-Known Member
Another quote :)
The M tip file mod to open up the airflow, by PhattPiggie

M mod video.
Use the grooves to get the correct position, file at a slight angle to create a small scallop in the lip of the bowl.
Once you have this scallop change the angle and it will allow more material to be removed.
I'm currently using a stem that I made for my 1st and 2nd gen tips. It has a 0.5mm carb which, due to the Venturi effect, allows a nice drop in pressure behind the screen.
Which in turn makes for easier draws with thick vapor production
 

Dynavaper

Karma Farmer
It would be great if one of you "oldtimers" could do a photo collage of the different tip generations, so that we "newcomers" have a chance to understand terms like "Gen4 tip" better... :rockon: I, for example, have no idea what generation my diverse Vapcaps belong to.
 

Winegums

I make things from wood
Accessory Maker
It would be great if one of you "oldtimers" could do a photo collage of the different tip generations, so that we "newcomers" have a chance to understand terms like "Gen4 tip" better... :rockon: I, for example, have no idea what generation my diverse Vapcaps belong to.
@phattpiggie Posted this a little while ago, Gen 1 through Gen 4

The key differences are the air channels, O-ring retention grooves, and the CCD retention system. Then there's little things that you can't see as easily like differences in the O-ring groove diameters, diameter of the bottom lip, chamber wall thickness and chamfered edges on the Gen 4.
i9ZT1cf.jpg
 
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sag

Well-Known Member
I never have that problem with my 7 fin tip, it seems that it has a much more even heat/cool curve.
Anyone else prefer the older tip?

I have been experimenting with my new gen omni after many happy months of using my older 7 fin onmi. I think that for me...the heating profile of the two tips is very different. I use a single flame torch. I heat the tip to click, then move down to the middle to click and finally heat the base to click. With the older tip, I can extract good amounts of thc without combusting. With the new 5 fin, if I do the same routine, I often combust at the last session at the base. I love my omni's, the older one more than the newer one. To me the M is a low priced starter vc. Works ok for me in the great outdoors and can be lost or stolen without major losses. DV rocks...
 
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stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
I've to report this .
One good friend of mine was complaining the last few days about his new VC .

-"Man ,I'm tellin' ya ...Somethin'z reeealy wraaawng with my new VC.
I keep combustin' my loads pretty often ,while with the old ( and lost ) VC never did ..
."

-"It just takes too long to heat till the click is heard ...I'm not foolin' ya ,bro ! "

And kept mumbling about it ,till today afternoon.
He ran out of herb.
And of course paid me a visit.

-"Hey,bro ,please give me one of your spare caps to try something " he told me .
Sat at the couch ,loaded his VC ,put on a brand new (but of older generation ) cap of my spare ones and fired his z-plus Vertigo.

-"Oh man ,yeah ! That's it ! " cried out few seconds later.

-"That's what I'm talkin' about ! Somethin'z wrong with that new cap of mine ."

I kept his "slow" cap (have it and I will test it myself ,also )
and gave him the spare one to have and use.

-"Oh ,man ,you saved me ! ",
screamed ,with his eyeballs almost ready to pop out of their cavities !

-"For two weeks now I was trying to get used to that weird new cap.
From the start I knew something 'z wrong with that cap .
Good for resin and stuff ,but not for herb
" ,he added.

So, it might be that some caps are clicking at higher temps ?


:sherlock:
 
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phattpiggie

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Thank you @Hippie and @Winegums.

I never had much of a problem with any of the Ti tips.
3rd and 4th gen were a huge improvement and meant, for me, no carb.

I have a 5th gen tip which has never been used and an M.

I prefer my M over all the tips performance wise and have no draw problems with it, before and after modding it.

To me the 7 fin looks more refined.
I'd be more than happy to pay a bit extra for a 7 fin M tip, George.

Winegums I saw your post and got a more up to date picture of tips and caps.

A glass tip with Blackwood adapter I was playing with then gens 1 to 5 and my modded M.
I believe @Baron23 has a 3.5 gen.
91aY5ez.jpg


I prefer the 'diggerless' look of the caps so my first one, LHS, was intended for a Pyrovap.
Second one came with my 2nd gen tip, a blackened one, the present version and my modded cap.

zpobab1.jpg
 

tashian

Well-Known Member
Just grabed a termopar and measured the M chamber temperature. I usualy use a single flame torch and on the base of the cap for higher temperatures ( hash ) First try with just a bit of cotton in the chamber and got up to 180C. This was surprising as the way it absolutely uses hash hints at higher temperatures. Then tried with the chamber full of Damiana and yes the temperatures got to where I thought it would. It went to 200-205C and after starting to pull, especialy with hole semi closed to closed the temperature reached 220-230C...OK, now I see why it is so efficient with hash.
 

Carlos8400

Well-Known Member
Thank you @Hippie and @Winegums.

I never had much of a problem with any of the Ti tips.
3rd and 4th gen were a huge improvement and meant, for me, no carb.

I have a 5th gen tip which has never been used and an M.

I prefer my M over all the tips performance wise and have no draw problems with it, before and after modding it.

To me the 7 fin looks more refined.
I'd be more than happy to pay a bit extra for a 7 fin M tip, George.

Winegums I saw your post and got a more up to date picture of tips and caps.

A glass tip with Blackwood adapter I was playing with then gens 1 to 5 and my modded M.
I believe @Baron23 has a 3.5 gen.
91aY5ez.jpg


I prefer the 'diggerless' look of the caps so my first one, LHS, was intended for a Pyrovap.
Second one came with my 2nd gen tip, a blackened one, the present version and my modded cap.

zpobab1.jpg

How much did you file the M tip? Did you copy the groves from the Ti tip?
 

paytonpenn

Level 30 Nature/Healer
Hey guys, I finally upgraded and got a new VapCap. Had a live session using only it. Was going to delete the stream but I'll probably edit and keep it since I did get some good shots after I combusted.. :(

I suggest skipping around if you do decide to watch any of this. I occasionally talk to chat.


Its great to be back in the VapCap game.
 

asdf420

Well-Known Member
ehhh I don't know man. @stardustsailor itHER WAY HUZZAH I HAVE ACWQUIRED THE GREEN MATERIAL quack. after properly becoming a proper Cannabis-needing patient under the Californian law an this humble M has gotten me to the clouds. I have a body high (more of a head/chest high with feet tingly but wow).

I filed the tip down at the grooves so the pull resistance doesn't screw up my throat. .And the ABV is still just golden-green. 3 heat cycles with the M, all on the center of the cap. And the tip is filed on the sides. No combustion.. from a noob.

zomg i'm jiggling

(edit)Ughh sorry about the double post... :| just realized

Also, you can just not stick the cap in all the way on the M. Even by a very slight bit, and there's way more airflow.
 
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CuckFumbustion

Lo and Behold! The transformative power of Vapor.
Thanks for the live sesh, @paytonpenn. I have been on the fence about getting that 3D printed case and just pulled the trigger and ordered the green version with the cooling magnet. Still would like to hear what you might have to say about yours @paytonpenn. There is the nice wood ones from @Winegums. on Esty to drool over too. -> Wooden Vapourizer Parts by WinegumsWoodcraft on Etsy

I wanted to go for the rugged but lightweight-slim type of Dynastash and easy to spot if I dropped it in the woods. As much as I like exotic woods, having it camouflage/conceal itself if I were to drop it on a nature hike.:o So that's my reasoning anyway.
Few Minutes with the 3D Dynavap Case

Dynavap M Dugout

Bought some #5 Twistit stoppers. One,two or three hole optional. How about 3 VC optional holes. :brow:
twist.jpg
 

IntoTheVoid

Pride Goeth Before A Fall
Dunno if this is the right place or not for this, so I’m sorry in advance... I’m a newb. I have an OmniVap (newest version) and a Sandblasted M. Love them both, but I did notice that the condenser in my Omni getting chewed up from CCD adjustment and CCD removal and cleaning. The inner dimension of the tip is a bit tighter than the outer dimension of the condenser so you have to force it in a bit. It’s still perfectly functional but scratched to hell. So I took some steel wool and polished all the scratches off and then followed it up with some VIM to buff it. It came out almost brand new. Not that the appearance of a scratched condenser has any relevance to performance. It’s more keeping such a beautiful device in good condition, if that sort of thing bothers you.

Have any of you had similar experiences with your Omni? I expect that this is Titanium specific. It’s stronger than steel of the same dimension but I know it scratches easier. Thoughts?
 

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
I too have OCD, but you have me beat... :)

Along with my somewhat pithy comment I have a question.

I have decided that I must have a stash of some kind for my new Omni XL, but my cheapness reigns, so I am looking for something more inexpensive than our traditional sources (DV, PP, WG, and Ed). Those 3D printed stashes look nice and may save a few bucks, and the leather choice from @Ratchett is another cheaper (in a good way) alternative.
Anyone have any other ideas? I WOULD like to carry herb along with the VC or just the tube would do.
 
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