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Discontinued VapeXhale Cloud EVO

Baron23

Well-Known Member
That's why I am after some mini EZLB's ambertrich, 1/3 to 1/4 of the current size would do me fine. If I cant find anything to buy I will have to modify

I only fill my ELB up to about 1/3. The EVO is my hardest hitter. I call it my face melter.

Yeah, @Rigman41 - I still don't get it. I'm with @CarolKing. Fluffed up or whatever happens in the ELB, the EVO runs VERY well on a 1/3 ELB load size which is about .1 g of fine ground, I believe.

You want open and airy in the ELB so that convection can work through out your load. I run my EVO until it gets whispy, take the ELB and tap it on the table a couple of times which stirs it, get one more draw off of it....and that's .1 g.

I'm not sure where you are having a problem?
 

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
also whole nugs are nice or nug pieces if you make sure it can clog the opening you get a solid hit or two than when you break it you get one last monster hit
I get away with very small amounts like this when I want to
@420democrat very cool name!

Do you get GSC?
There are other's I love, however this is the KINE (Da KINE I have)!
KUf4P68.jpg

EVO will bake you, however in a CIVILIZED way. (HUMP DAY)!
@CarolKing enjoy your day!
@Baron23 life is worth living!
@CuckFumbustion we all live on the same planet!
@kellya86 put the torch down and be CIVILIZED!
GIRL SCOUT COOKIES by the COOKIE BROTHERS is not bad?
 
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Rigman41

Well-Known Member
No worries Baron, you don't have to get it. For you the big EZLB work great and that's fine, I was just asking if anyone knows if there is any small EZLB's for me to buy, or whether I have to make/modify my own. I realize you don't HAVE to fill them up, the unit isn't sitting on the shelf not being used ;), I am just trying to modify/personalize it to suit me.
 

MonkeyTime

Well-Known Member
No worries Baron, you don't have to get it. For you the big EZLB work great and that's fine, I was just asking if anyone knows if there is any small EZLB's for me to buy, or whether I have to make/modify my own. I realize you don't HAVE to fill them up, the unit isn't sitting on the shelf not being used ;), I am just trying to modify/personalize it to suit me.

I can't say I've seen it applied to the Evo, but there's no reason it won't work.....

In another thread or two I've seen what's often referred to as top hats or rimmed baskets. These come I'm all sorts of sizes and can be found generic like the 15 pack I just got on Amazon for $8. You can manipulate these into a custom elb to your liking.

I'm on my phone and hate searching like this, but if you can't find anything in your searching, pm me and I can later.
 

oldiebutgoodie

Apostle, Church of Vaporization
EQ elbow screens can be used with an Evo cap for a smaller bowl. They are readily available at all the usual purveyors.

:peace:


Yes, this works. IIRC Stu, didn't we talk about that mod back on the Cloud thread some years ago? (Or am I confusing that with the similar Q mod?)

Anyway @Rigman41, just fwiw there was a scientific rationale behind the configuration and screen material used for the ELB's. The intent is to create pressurization. The first effect is to generate turbulence so that the material is evenly and thoroughly vaped. The second is to lower the vaporization point relative temperature, i.e., you can get a comparable result at a lower setting.


:myday::science::2c:
 

CuckFumbustion

Lo and Behold! The transformative power of Vapor.
@CuckFumbustion we all live on the same planet!
@ataxian I would even go as far as saying we all are on an enormous spaceship called Earth. :nod:

Got a longer improved perc for my 'Q' DD which is a modified buchner flask. A silicone made plug to fit the large opening. After trying it out for the first time with my EVO, I forgot what planet I was on for a while.:ko: The top of the perc is impressively thick and wide. Since the EVO gets pulled on and off enough, that extra amount of lip helps.

Whole setup is easy to keep to clean. 18mm opening to add a mouthpiece. The EVO really likes it too. Don't you?
lIkYiw9h.jpg
EcSRHF0h.jpg
 

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
@ataxian I would even go as far as saying we all are on an enormous spaceship called Earth. :nod:

Got a longer improved perc for my 'Q' DD which is a modified buchner flask. A silicone made plug to fit the large opening. After trying it out for the first time with my EVO, I forgot what planet I was on for a while.:ko: The top of the perc is impressively thick and wide. Since the EVO gets pulled on and off enough, that extra amount of lip helps.

Whole setup is easy to keep to clean. 18mm opening to add a mouthpiece. The EVO really likes it too. Don't you?
@CuckFumbustion where is @kellya86 ?

I had RASPBERRY DOSIDOS in a EBL BASKET in my EVO 12:48 PST = CIVILIZED
https://www.leafly.com/indica/do-si-dos (EMPIRICAL EVIDENCE)

LEVEL MEDICATED #: 9.015279465

During the day the EVO is like riding down PCH with the TOP DOWN!
vHu1nP5.jpg

DAVID HUME would vape this!
 
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CuckFumbustion

Lo and Behold! The transformative power of Vapor.
Where? Pale Blue Dot? Spaceship Earth? @kellya86 isn't from SoCal or visiting the US ATM. Maybe doing some gardening? Oh I remember now. :hmm: Wondering when you were going to try a VC? :evil: :rofl:

Did you know that you can heat up a VC 'M' (or any narrow enough VC) with your EVO? Just gently slide it in like a nail and wait for the cap to click. I designed one of my 'M's special to have a glass condenser and a Ti tip upgrade for this purpose. :science: It heats up pret-ty im-press-ive-ly in the EVO. But the body of the 'M' being mase of SS gets hot if used click to click.

Using my 'Q' with the new shower perc and the old EVO and what a killer combo that became.:mmmm: I'm able to get vapor thick as spray paint sometimes and that is a 500ml size flask to begin with. :p I find slow drawing the first 5 seconds then your desired speed works well as a method with whatever water piece you are using.

You want open and airy in the ELB so that convection can work through out your load. I run my EVO until it gets whispy, take the ELB and tap it on the table a couple of times which stirs it, get one more draw off of it....and that's .1 g.
More heat does not mean more vapor. It is more about the heat passing thru and how the materials are stacked on each and then the draw speed. Now if the materials are too heavily packed down, then can form hot spots and possible combustion, even at some lower temps.

You can tamp the ELBs like @Baron23 mentioned and stir for that extra round. I have a special pipe reamer that I use to crush the materials for vaping things down further and to scrape the inside of the ELBS of any caked on materials.
 

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
Where? Pale Blue Dot? Spaceship Earth? @kellya86 isn't from SoCal or visiting the US ATM. Maybe doing some gardening? Oh I remember now. :hmm: Wondering when you were going to try a VC? :evil: :rofl:

Did you know that you can heat up a VC 'M' (or any narrow enough VC) with your EVO? Just gently slide it in like a nail and wait for the cap to click. I designed one of my 'M's special to have a glass condenser and a Ti tip upgrade for this purpose. :science: It heats up pret-ty im-press-ive-ly in the EVO. But the body of the 'M' being mase of SS gets hot if used click to click.

Using my 'Q' with the new shower perc and the old EVO and what a killer combo that became.:mmmm: I'm able to get vapor thick as spray paint sometimes and that is a 500ml size flask to begin with. :p I find slow drawing the first 5 seconds then your desired speed works well as a method with whatever water piece you are using.

More heat does not mean more vapor. It is more about the heat passing thru and how the materials are stacked on each and then the draw speed. Now if the materials are too heavily packed down, then can form hot spots and possible combustion, even at some lower temps.

You can tamp the ELBs like @Baron23 mentioned and stir for that extra round. I have a special pipe reamer that I use to crush the materials for vaping things down further and to scrape the inside of the ELBS of any caked on materials.
I have some new book's I'm reading.
Kurt ANDERSEN, "FANTASYLAND" (I will read this next)
Right now I'm reading: "TRUE BELIEVER'S" by him.
He did some ghost writing for ALEC BALDWIN!

EVO + TOP SHELF CANNABIS + WATER PATH + DECENT READ = CIVILIZED

READING is exercise for the brain!

CANNABIS is safer than MILK!
 

Rigman41

Well-Known Member
Diddy, there is only one thing that I have used over the years that cleans glassware spotless with no work which I will be using on the Hydratube. The Bamboo though will NOT be able to be done like this as it is in the unit.

The best cleaning solution for glassware that I have found is Dishwasher Powder (Alkaline Based).

Add a couple of scoops of dishwasher machine powder into a bucket that you can completely submerge the hydratube in and then (CAREFULLY) pour freshly boiled water in and stir well. Try not to breathe in the fumes). Once all the powder has dissolved, submerge the hydratube so the solution goes into all the chambers and leave it to rest. The powder will have frothed up when you added hot water and the level will slowly drop down, so keep an eye on it and top up with the boiled water as needed to keep it submerged.

Leave it sit until it has cooled down (you can rush it, but it is easy to break glass if you make it too cool to quickly, so best to just leave it rest until the solution is warm). As the solution is alkaline, the parts will be really slippery as you remove them (and this stuff will sting any cuts or scrapes on your hands and don't get it in your eyes), so carefully take out each part and rinse thoroughly under running water (rinse and put into a bucket of fresh cool water if you like).

I had 5 year old glassware which would look (and smell) like a brand new piece every time I washed it down like this and it will clean the smallest arms of percs, pipes and cones. It also works on metal pipe accessories but will eat anodizing and paint off, so take care.
 

oldiebutgoodie

Apostle, Church of Vaporization
new to vaping and I just wanted to know the best safest way to clean the evo and the hydratube ..can you clean the glass tubing on the evo to ?

Welcome to the EVO thread. :)

I use 90%+ ISO to clean my tubes, plugging both ends with a cork. Some folks use PBW, which provides intense cleaning. One of the oldsters here put together a sink cleaning rig that blows through the tube - I used that for quite a while but got lazy and went back to ISO/a drop of Dawn/water rinse.

The EVO itself is largely self-cleaning. There will probably be some resin accumulation on the inside of the joint under its bottom lip. A q-tip dipped in ISO will take care of that; do it occasionally or it may harden and become difficult to remove. It is possible to fill the bamboo with ISO, capping the bottom and tops. I have done that maybe twice in the nearly 5 years I've had my unit. The bamboo is the only fragile part of the EVO, so be mindful what you do to it, how you handle the joint with the tubes, etc.

:myday::science:
 

CuckFumbustion

Lo and Behold! The transformative power of Vapor.
I definitely don't 'tamp' ELB loads....did you perhaps mean 'tap"?
Zoiks!:o Oh no, I meant "tap". As in "It is better to tap your ELB to break free any loose materials. Don't tamp your ELBs. It will create hot spots and poor air pass thru. What I was going on about earlier.

The best cleaning solution for glassware that I have found is Dishwasher Powder (Alkaline Based).
Interesting method. There is a PBW thread at FC for everybody.
I find it more interesting at this point for me because I'm trying to get what components go into PBW. BTW, how much of that rinses free?
PBW & the Chemistry of Clean | FC Vaporizer Review Forum

The EVO's bamboo generally doesn't get dirty and it tends to burn off whatever falls into it. And I have max temped it to deliberately do a burn off. But if you had some sort of accident with it, any back up plan would be a time-stress saver.
If you wait until it is entirely cooled off, maybe some gentle nylon brushes dipped in ISO. Some have very carefully capped both ends of the bamboo and shake with some ISO. Never use anything rigid. I've scrunched up some coffee filters in the top part and drip a few drops of ISO and clean it like a wine glass and have that window cleaning sound.
 

oldiebutgoodie

Apostle, Church of Vaporization
...
I find it more interesting at this point for me because I'm trying to get what components go into PBW. BTW, how much of that rinses free?
PBW & the Chemistry of Clean | FC Vaporizer Review Forum ...

"PBW is a buffered alkaline detergent that has been proven to be more than an effective substitute for caustic soda cleaners."

PBW is basically just the phosphate-free (non-caustic) version of TSP mixed with an oxidizer like oxyclean. The commercial product adds some surfactants, which facilitate thorough rinsing. But when I built a good rinsing rig based on what @t-dub showed in the above thread, I mixed up my own PBW which was cheaper and it worked just fine; you just need to be thorough. One caveat to toss in here is that when a number of us did that, all the HT's were tube designs; the flow-thru on those made them very easy to clean with PBW, as was also true with my Mobius collection and rigs like @ataxian's above. The small can/sidecar neck HT styles now sold are different (and I don't have any of those) so I can't speak to how easy they are to thoroughly rinse out. After a couple years using my PBW routine I switched back to 90% ISO/rinse/drop of Dawn/rinse, no soaking just a wash/rinse routine in the sink and my pieces clean up fine. For me that's the easiest and plenty effective.

Btw, folks were also using PBW to soak clean their ELB's. I not only switched back to ISO for that, but began to clean them much less frequently even with ISO because I found that a test tube brush with a diameter just a tiny bit greater than the ELB can very effectively remove any residue. (Other types of brushes work well, too.) So I now use the brush after each session and the ISO soak maybe every couple weeks just for the sake of good hygiene.


:myday::science:
 

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
PBW is basically just the phosphate-free (non-caustic) version of TSP mixed with an oxidizer like oxyclean. The commercial product adds some surfactants, which facilitate thorough rinsing. But when I built a good rinsing rig based on what @t-dub showed in the above thread, I mixed up my own PBW which was cheaper and it worked just fine; you just need to be thorough. One caveat to toss in here is that when a number of us did that, all the HT's were tube designs; the flow-thru on those made them very easy to clean with PBW, as was also true with my Mobius collection and rigs like @ataxian's above. The small can/sidecar neck HT styles now sold are different (and I don't have any of those) so I can't speak to how easy they are to thoroughly rinse out. After a couple years using my PBW routine I switched back to 90% ISO/rinse/drop of Dawn/rinse, no soaking just a wash/rinse routine in the sink and my pieces clean up fine. For me that's the easiest and plenty effective.

Btw, folks were also using PBW to soak clean their ELB's. I not only switched back to ISO for that, but began to clean them much less frequently even with ISO because I found that a test tube brush with a diameter just a tiny bit greater than the ELB can very effectively remove any residue. (Other types of brushes work well, too.) So I now use the brush after each session and the ISO soak maybe every couple weeks just for the sake of good hygiene.


:myday::science:

People love PBW however I studied CHEMISTRY and have a different approach?

Some really like it also.

Now I'm a Emperialist. (I THINK I am?) (DAVID HUME PHILOSOPHY for reference)

I have USA glass and CHINESE that I clean daily.

Most BonG user's once a week they clean. (about?) BAMBOO design made into glass.

I tried most of the cleaning products to test.

What I use is basic and cheap like me! (no fluff)

EVO + GSC + H2O path + 12 is my level with this batch (usally about 1)
 
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