convert my box mod to AC

i guess i'm going to convert my Joyetech dual to AC.
i'm thinking a laptop charger and a 10A buck converter adjusted to reduce the 19v to 4.1v or so.
drill a hole in the back of the battery case and solder wires to the battery terminals.
i think the max current ouwld be limited to the 4.5A of the laptop charger but that seems like enough.
i havent seen my amps display go much higher very often.
it would just slow the heatup time a wee bit.
baking dry tobacco just sucks all the juice outta those batteries.
and i was sure to order some heatsinks for under the tank.
 
burnnomore,

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
Hm beware man, the amps displayed on the Joyetech screen is what goes to the topper, not what's drawn from your cells! That's a noob mistake.

Using our average settings we easily draw upwards of 20A from a single cell. I'm really concerned that 4.5A will get your AC/DC converter in overload protection mode in no time.

I invite you to buy a 7.5V 20A LED driver PSU (for about $20 shipped from China) instead (as your VTC dual is supposed to support up to 8.4V on the input when two cells are used)

Go to this very same DIY subforum and locate the thread called "Zion power adapter" that I posted, you'll find everything you need.
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
so would a 250watt ATX supply do the trick?
i have one here rated 22A on the 5v rail and 16A on the 12v rail.

The problem is that you can't use 5V or 12V directly. I think the VTC dual firmware will complain if you use 5V (as it would mean two cells discharged to 2.5V when it cuts around 3.2V or something) and 12V is way above the maximum input voltage of 8.4V.

But if you put a DC/DC converter on the 12V rail it could work, but it's more costly and less efficient to have two converters in series. Or alternatively, if you find a high power diode or resistance with proper heatsink etc you could drop the 5V rail to below 4V and be in range, while dissipating the rest as heat (with all the risks it entails)

Beware that these PSU sometimes need to have a dummy load and/or tricks to make them wake-up out of standby mode (but there are plenty of youtube videos to explain that)
 
KeroZen,
KeroZen,
the Joyetech Dual comes with BOTH a 1-cell and 2-cell battery compartment.
i'm thinking that the electronic are all confined to the single circuit board.
so i am wondering if its OK to solder the 7.5V supply into the single cell battery holder
so i can preserve my 2-cell battery holder for portable use.
i'm thinking the circuit simply distinguishes between them by voltage level and software.
also was looking a slightly stronger version of that supply you referred to @180w for the
same price.
 
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