cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
Would the lack of more butane be a cause of it not staying on for more than a few seconds? It wil just cut out and I have to re light.. it's probably 20% full I would guess
This is with the butane that came loaded? I doubt that DV put that tane in there, it probably came that way from the source. Assuming the source is Chinese, there is NO reason to think they are using quality butane, they will use what is cheapest.

I don't know if this is the reason for your problems, but I would empty that bad boy and refill it with quality butane. That will also likely resolve the other most likely reason for your problem, air in the tank. Often just burping the tank will fix this (air), but bad butane is also a problem easily resolved.
 

goodpunk6

Well-Known Member
It is pretty easy. This will make your fingers tired so it is easier and better to use a vise.

  1. remove your stainless steel tip from the M
  2. about 1/4" down from the top edge wrap the tip with a folded piece of paper towel for protection from the vise clamping down
  3. place the wrapped tip in the vise and very slowly tighten down while gently wiggling the tip. When it becomes somewhat firm in the vise's grip stop tightening, you do not want to bend the tip.
  4. use a set of small or micro metal files. I got mine from home depot (HDX brand)
  5. use a triangular or square file to cut a notch at the top of the rim where each channel ends
  6. once the top of the grooves have been notched I go to a round file
  7. using the round file I expand and smooth the notches to better match the top of the channel
  8. clean well and enjoy

voila, you are done! :)

I live in a condo and have no hope of using a vice. so i'm going to do it old school and buy a triangular and round file.
 

kushkush

happy camper....

kushkush

happy camper....
You should try modifying your 'M' stainless steel tip first. After I did the mod I was surprised how close it felt to the Ti tip performance, not as good but pretty close. I would not buy a Ti tip before trying this mod out.

I love my Ti tips but this 'M' tip mod works pretty damn good.

:2c:

I appreciate your encouragement to do the mod first. But...I don't quite think I could do this without a video demo first.
 

kushkush

happy camper....
All caps are the same, you can just use the cap that came with your M. The tip is sold separately, it does not come with a cap.

Thanks...I took a closer look at the site and it says they use the same Cap for all their devices. I just need to learn to pay attention better. :doh:

Definitely get the Ti tip. You would never regret it. They are exceptional and I love them.

Took all the good advice and added it to my order. :clap: (I'm applauding myself...ha)
 

toked23

Well-Known Member
This is with the butane that came loaded? I doubt that DV put that tane in there, it probably came that way from the source. Assuming the source is Chinese, there is NO reason to think they are using quality butane, they will use what is cheapest.

I don't know if this is the reason for your problems, but I would empty that bad boy and refill it with quality butane. That will also likely resolve the other most likely reason for your problem, air in the tank. Often just burping the tank will fix this (air), but bad butane is also a problem easily resolved.

Yes, this is the butane that came with it. Went up to the closest cigar shop and had some fine help. Gentleman there had some really high quality stuff, 99.999 percent pure and 4-5times filtered. I purchased a new bottle from him and he filled my existing lighter up and got it working perfectly in a minute max. Couldn't have been more helpful.

It is pretty easy. This will make your fingers tired so it is easier and better to use a vise.

  1. remove your stainless steel tip from the M
  2. about 1/4" down from the top edge wrap the tip with a folded piece of paper towel for protection from the vise clamping down
  3. place the wrapped tip in the vise and very slowly tighten down while gently wiggling the tip. When it becomes somewhat firm in the vise's grip stop tightening, you do not want to bend the tip.
  4. use a set of small or micro metal files. I got mine from home depot (HDX brand)
  5. use a triangular or square file to cut a notch at the top of the rim where each channel ends
  6. once the top of the grooves have been notched I go to a round file
  7. using the round file I expand and smooth the notches to better match the top of the channel
  8. clean well and enjoy

voila, you are done! :)

Very helpful, thank you. I have a vice already setup in my garage for my golf club tinkering stuff. Can I bother you for an after pic of the tip so I can look at mine and compare yours to see what I'm going after?
 

toked23

Well-Known Member
Do you have a Ti tip by chance? It looks exactly like that. This is what we are mimicking. Your notches can be a little smaller or a little larger. Perfection is not needed just careful work to make notches that give you more air.

Link to dynavap titanium tip page

Adjust a bowl Titanium Tip Video by Dynavap - you can see the notches on the Ti tip's rim here.


1px.gif

Are you talking about just the little notches, there appear to be 3? In the very edges of the outer rim of the tip?
 

vapethirty

Well-Known Member
the M is SS and in site it said the Ti does better at distribution of heat. How much difference does it make?

Also the wood ones had titanium ends... is that a slightly cheaper way to get the Ti ends without spending the money on an omnivap?

I spend time in 2 locations and was thinking to get an M for each.. thus given I was about to buy two.. really wanted to see how well they are working. From what I am seeing they are performing well enough.
 
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cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
I am a little surprised that there isn't an assembled Titanium bodied Uni available as a choice on the site, preferably (tho not necessarily) with a TI mouthpiece to keep it all Ti. That would make more sense to me if I wanted a Ti tipped all metal non-omni VC than assembling one from an M. It would be a little more money but I think I would prefer it. And it should be a little cheaper than assembling it from parts like I stupidly did with my Nonavong.

is that a slightly cheaper way to get the Ti ends without spending the money on an omnivap?

The reason to get the Omni is to have the set-able adjustable airflow. If that isn't something you are after, a similarly equipped Uni should be about $60 less.
 

vapethirty

Well-Known Member
The reason to get the Omni is to have the set-able adjustable airflow. If that isn't something you are after, a similarly equipped Uni should be about $60 less.
Ok.. I now see the 4 categories of vaps they offer. What I mentioned in my question was referring to the Uni, so yes I see what your saying here. This would give me the titanium ends which are said to work better. Also see what your saying about no all titanium uni setup.. which does sound appealing. I like the wood style designs though so no big deal for me there.

Also still looking to hear back about the level of difference between the SS and Ti specifically in regard to heat diffusion/vapor quality. Does the SS char it a little more? kind of looked pretty black when they ashed one.

Still most interested in M although looking at all options.. may buy tonight
 

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
The Vong is the 14mm wood body or stem designed to work directly with a 14mm glass joint on a water piece.

The properties of steel and titanium are different, but the biggest noticeable difference is in heat retention and weight, I would think. Ti is lighter and steel tends to hold heat longer and conduct it more, so the M stem may get a little hotter and stay hot a little longer.

Or so it seems to me.
 

Squiby

Well-Known Member
Boy! I was away for a few days and came back to find that I had a lot of pages to read to catch up. Love this thread! Welcome to all the new Vapcappers. You have just ventured into the land of LEGO for stoners. Enjoy!

Could someone please help me out on what the difference is between a body and a stem? I know ones longer but is that it? I've been trying to find out by using their comparison chart and its all becoming clearer except that detail.
There is a 17mm difference in length between a body and a stem.

A body is 45mm long and uses a standard condenser which accomodates a 62 mm configuration; 45mm body + 17mm spinning mp = 62mm.

A stem is 62 mm long and can use either a standard condenser or an XL condenser. Using a standard condenser the stem will cover it's length without an added mp. Using an XL condenser, which accommodates a 79mm configuration of a 62 mm stem + a 17 mm spinning mp = 79mm.

Vapcaps that use a standard condenser will fit into a regular Dynastash/ER.

Vapcaps that use an XL condenser will fit into an XL Dynastash/ER.

Which length of Vapcap to choose? If you have large hands or are less nimble you might find the XL Vapcaps fit your hand better. If you are looking for stealth choose a regular length Vapcap. Vapcaps sporting the spinning mp can be easier to twirl. If you have a water tool with a short joint you might want a Vapcap without an added mp. Beyond these few elements, it is all personal preference and asthetic. Choose the one you like the looks of.


What do you all think about the size of the bowl in the titanium tip? Did you ever use a scale to check how much herb you can fit inside it?

Do you grind fine or coarse? Do you pack tightly or loose?

Is one bowl enough if you want to get somewhat blasted? Or do you have to reload? I'm just curious.

My tip can accommodate the following loads cured bud stored with a 62% rh bodeva pack. This is according to my scale so it could vary +- depending on other more accurate scales and the amount of moisture in your bud.

Screen in bottom groove - .07 grams

Screen in middle groove - .05 grams

Screen in top groove - .03 grams

These are the absolute max amounts that I can stuff into the chamber. In practice, I never fill the Vapcap to capacity. I like to pop an unground nug in there and let it float freely. My average load is .015 grams, just a tiny nug. I vape several times per day.

Obviously I microdose and absolutely love the effects! The highs are cleaner and far more enjoyable compared to a heavier dose. It took some effort to get down to lower doses, but if you load a tiny bit less each time, a tiny bit less, you may find that you get just as high but a cleaner high with far less weed.

The Vapcap is not only fantastic for microdoses and is astonishingly conservative with your weed.

Is the "m" convection or conduction? I currently run a davinci iq, awesome vape being conduction.

The Vapcap is a hybrid device. The oven is heated and air is drawn between the cap and the tips exterior channels and heated before passing through the bud. The M tip would likey have a slightly higher conduction ratio compered to a Ti tip IMO.
bofc.png
 
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xlr8shun

Well-Known Member
I live in a condo and have no hope of using a vice. so i'm going to do it old school and buy a triangular and round file.
Same here.. but i used the irwin clamp i used for rosin with pretty much the same instructions as @steama listed...

I initially used my fingers to hold the tip as well, but thats just asking for cramps, lol... a vice or, if you dont have a workshop, the irwin clamp and some clever positioning in your lap will work just fine..
 

MonkeyTime

Well-Known Member
Boy! I was away for a few days and came back to find that I had a lot of pages to read to catch up. Love this thread! Welcome to all the new Vapcappers. You have just ventured into the land of LEGO for stoners. Enjoy!


There is a 17mm difference in length between a body and a stem.

A body is 45mm long and uses a standard condenser which accomodates a 62 mm configuration; 45mm body + 17mm spinning mp = 62mm.

A stem is 62 mm long and can use either a standard condenser or an XL condenser. Using a standard condenser the stem will cover it's length without an added mp. Using an XL condenser, which accommodates a 79mm configuration of a 62 mm stem + a 17 mm spinning mp = 79mm.

Vapcaps that use a standard condenser will fit into a regular Dynastash/ER.

Vapcaps that use an XL condenser will fit into an XL Dynastash/ER.

Which length of Vapcap to choose? If you have large hands or are less nimble you might find the XL Vapcaps fit your hand better. If you are looking for stealth choose a regular length Vapcap. Vapcaps sporting the spinning mp can be easier to twirl. If you have a water tool with a short joint you might want a Vapcap without an added mp. Beyond these few elements, it is all personal preference and asthetic. Choose the one you like the looks of.




My tip can accommodate the following loads cured bud stored with a 62% rh bodeva pack. This is according to my scale so it could vary +- depending on other more accurate scales and the amount of moisture in your bud.

Screen in bottom groove - .07 grams

Screen in middle groove - .05 grams

Screen in top groove - .03 grams

These are the absolute max amounts that I can stuff into the chamber. In practice, I never fill the Vapcap to capacity. I like to pop an unground nug in there and let it float freely. My average load is .015 grams, just a tiny nug. I vape several times per day.

Obviously I microdose and absolutely love the effects! The highs are cleaner and far more enjoyable compared to a heavier dose. It took some effort to get down to lower doses, but if you load a tiny bit less each time, a tiny bit less, you may find that you get just as high but a cleaner high with far less weed.

The Vapcap is not only fantastic for microdoses and is astonishingly conservative with your weed.



The Vapcap is a hybrid device. The oven is heated and air is drawn between the cap and the tips exterior channels and heated before passing through the bud. The M tip would likey have a slightly higher conduction ratio compered to a Ti tip IMO.
[/QUOTE]
Can we get this added to the best of? It's current and had a fair amount of info not there.....:clap:
 

VanCough

Environmentalist
I am a little surprised that there isn't an assembled Titanium bodied Uni available as a choice on the site, preferably (tho not necessarily) with a TI mouthpiece to keep it all Ti. That would make more sense to me if I wanted a Ti tipped all metal non-omni VC than assembling one from an M. It would be a little more money but I think I would prefer it. And it should be a little cheaper than assembling it from parts like I stupidly did with my Nonavong.



The reason to get the Omni is to have the set-able adjustable airflow. If that isn't something you are after, a similarly equipped Uni should be about $60 less.

I've also had this thought...

I came to the conclusion that it just wouldn't make sense for them because it would devalue the all Ti omni.

Originally it was their only all metal vapcap, with a contemporary design feel instead of the more vintage wood; which I know some people on here have said they prefer and would not buy wood because it doesn't appeal to them or it smells.

With the advent of the m, those people now have a cheaper alternative to the omni. It is most likely already their biggest seller.

The variable airflow and fact it's titanium is not going to be a big enough seller for most people to want to spend $155 more (m for a mate sale $20 vs Ti omni $175), when they can just have stainless steel and learn to feather the carb.

Production must be slowed down as a result of having to create and assemble all of the different components and units.

I think they should just try and improve efficiency of their omni condenser production and bring the costs down to where they are able to offer all units (except the m) with an omni condenser (with interchangeable wood mouthpieces for those that want them). Then just offer the Ti body as a metal option to the Ti woody(-s)? Keeping all the Ti tipped family together and further separating them from the m.

If George believes the vapcap product is better with variable airflow (which he must if he's charging more for it), then he's doing a disservice to his product and customers by selling the majority of the dynavap range without it, and he's making assembly more complicated which is probably costing him in terms of man hours.

Anyway, clearly I'm too vaked and thinking too much.

Before anyone shoots me down for blasphemy, like they did when I said I think the cap is the only part of the vapcap that feels cheap and thin/flimsy, George has asked us for our thoughts, recommendation and criticisms; and apparently he's working on a new cap design ;):worms:
 
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